Hibiscus Bloom: Pattern

I had a 100g ball of Lollipop variegated yarn in spectacularly bright rainbow colours.    Thought I would make a ROAD TRIP SCARF with it - but OUCH - there was just too much colour going on (never thought I would actually say something like that!!)

I suddenly had the idea to make a beach bag and just started crocheting!    Even though I had no clear idea as to what the end product would look like, I knew EXACTLY how I wanted to decorate it!     Great big floppy Hibiscus Blooms - like the ones you find on the Island Queen Hibiscus:

The bloom is quite frilly and just altogether fantastic. Not an easy thing to recreate!     

Remember a few weeks back I helped Designer Iin Wibisono test the FRILLY PANSY pattern (I used it to decorate my JAR JACKETS)?     The big frilly pansy petals were perfect to start forming my Hibiscus Bloom - so thank you Iin for the inspiration and letting me borrow something from your idea!

I used the reverse single crochet to edge the first one I made:

I love the look of the reverse single crochet, but my fingers get a bit knotted up doing the crab stitch, so I changed the edging a bit on my second attempt:

Quite happy with how it turned out - of course not even close to as spectacular as Mother Nature's work - but not a bad yarny copy!

Special thanks also to the ladies who tested the pattern for me!   You girls ROCK!

Gloria Clayton used a cotton poly blend for the petals and base but had to switch to Simply Soft to get the hot pink border.    Gloria says "I found it pleasing to make and believe with your special stitch instruction it could be made by some beginners."   She suggests that you DO read the whole pattern through before starting to crochet as there are several portions to be worked.

Gabriela Mendez from Beunos Aires used cerise for rows 1 and 2 - the same colour as the beads; then a soft yellow for the petals and the flower centre; bright orange for the eding.   Gabriela says "it is wonderfully written, very clear"  

My wonderful bloggy friend, Pat Wilkinson, from SUNSHINE AND A SEWING BASKET once again stepped up to help me test, making her Hibiscus in these beautiful shades.

I can also always count on my Facebook friend, Laura Brozo to quickly and effectively test my patterns!   I just LOVE the hot pink she used as well as the straight slip stitch along the edge!

  
Thank you all, once again, for your wonderful input!

So enough blah blah blah from me....... here is the pattern!

HIBISCUS BLOOM

PATTERN TERMS:   US

My patterns are all written in US terms - I have included this little chart to make it easier for my UK readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.

Skill Level:  Intermediate

Approximate Time:  60 minutes

Yarn:  Any DK (8 ply / Light Worsted Weight) or Aran (10ply / Worsted Weight) Yarn (I used Lollipop DK) - The bloom is made from 3 different colours.

Hook:  Use whatever hook size suits your choice of yarn and your tension (I used a 5.00 mm hook;   and a 4.00mm hook)

Special Stitches:    I use a double triple crochet (dtrc) (yarn three times around hook) - this is known as a Triple Treble in UK Terms (ttr)

Foundation:  With colour A and using a 5.00mm hook - 4ch, sl st to join OR make a magic ring

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1 dc), 11 dc into circle (12 dc), sl st into top of 3ch to join

Row 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into top of same dc;  (2dc into top of  next dc) x11 = 24dc;   sl st into top of 3ch to join

Row 3:  Join colour B into top of any dc;   4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as join; 3dtrc into each of next 2dc; into next dc 2dtrc, 4ch sl st;   (4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as sl st from previous petal; 3dtrc into each of next 2dc;  into next dc 2dtrc, 4ch sl st) x 6;   4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as sl st from previous petal;  3dtrc into each of next 2dc; into next dc (same dc as start of first petal) 2dtrc, 4ch sl st= 8 petals formed

Petal Edging:   Using the 4.00mm hook join Colour C with a sl st into the top of first dtrc on any petal;  (1ch; 1sl st into the top of next dtrc) x 9;   (1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3;    sl st into sl st at base of 4ch;   6ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed) 3ch,  sl st into sl st at base of 4ch  

[(1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3;   (1ch, sl st into top of next dtrc) x 10;  (1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3;   sl st into sl st at base of 4ch;   6ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed) 3ch, sl st into sl st at base of 4ch] x 7;   break off yarn

(VARIATION:   you could use the reverse single crochet - as with the Frilly Pansy - to edge your petals!)

Flower Centre:  Using the 4.00mm hook attach Colour B with a slip stitch around any dc post in Row 1;   9ch,  sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed)  6ch;   

(sl st around next dc post in Row 1;   9ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook;   6ch) x 11;   sl st around last dc post from Row 1;   break off yarn


 
Embellishment - sew a few little beads into the centre of the flower!

This little flower is quite versatile!

Leave the picot part out when you do the edging,   don't crochet the flower centre - and add a big button to the centre instead:

PS:  OOOh...... ooh and a last test in - this one from Iin Wibisono - isn't it pretty???  (Thank you Iin)

Wild Flowers Scarf: Pattern

 

As promised, the pattern for the MOM AND DAUGHTER CROCHET ALONG SCARF,   A.K.A. "The Wildflowers Scarf"!

PATTERN TERMS:   US

My patterns are all written in US terms - I have included this little chart to make it easier for my UK readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.

Skill Level:  Easy

Approximate Time:  2 hours

Yarn:

I used Elle Escapade DK for the first scarf and Lollipop DK for the other two 

Any DK (8 ply / Light Worsted Weight) or Aran (10ply / Worsted Weight) Yarn would be suitable

Hook Size:

I used a 6.00mm for the foundation chains and a 5.50mm for the rest

Use whatever hook size suits your choice of yarn and your tension.

Size:  

Width - 13cm
Length - 164cm (excluding embellishments)

SCARF


Foundation:   with a 6.00mm hook crochet 24ch

Change to 5.50mm hook

(I use a slightly bigger hook to crochet the foundation chain - gives a more even start to the workpiece)

 

Repeat Row 2 until scarf is required length (I made mine 164 cm - over 125 rows)

Working across the length;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same sp post;   2dc into each post;   6dc into last post at end of row;

working across the width,  2dc into each 1ch sp;   6dc into last 1ch sp at end of row;

working across the length, 2dc into post directly after 6dc;   2dc into each post;   6dc into last post at end of row;

working across the width,  2dc into each 1ch sp,   3dc into same space as start 3ch, sl st into top of 3ch to close.   

I quite fancy the reverse single crochet although I have to admit it is a bit fiddly.     For a beginner a regular single crochet edging might be a more comfortable option.

The scarf can be worn as is or you can really go to town decorating it!!   Add a few wildflowers, or beaded braids / tassels!

SMALL WILD FLOWER

Make a magic ring.

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into the ring,  5ch;   (2dc, 5ch) x4 (5 petals formed),  sl st into sp between 2dc to close;

Row 2:   Join yarn in space between two dc (1ch; 6hdc into 5ch sp, 1ch, sl st into next sp between two dc) x5 (the last sl st being worked into the start 1ch);   break off yarn

LARGE WILD FLOWER
 
Make a magic ring.

Row 1:  4ch (counts as 1trc), 1trc into the ring,  5ch;   (2trc, 5ch) x4 (5 petals formed),  sl st into sp between 2dc to close;

Row 2:  Join yarn in space between two trc (2ch; 6dc into 5ch sp, 2ch, sl st into next sp between two trc) x5 (the last sl st being worked into the 1st of the 2ch at the start);   break off yarn
 

Embellish your flowers with additional stitchwork, embroidery, beads and buttons!    (No rules!   Just have fun!)

Mom-and-Daugher Crochet Along!

Many, many, many moons ago, when my girls where little, they used to love crocheting with me on winter weekends.

We would decide what we were going to make on a Thursday evening -a bag, a pillow, a scarf - always something quick and easy.   I would stop at Checkers (supermarket) on my way home from the office on Friday evening and  pick up a few balls of yarn in the colours they had chosen.     (Checkers still stocks this yarn today - it is called Chick and is probably the equivalent of the Red Heart Super Saver in price and quality.)

I would make up the patterns as we went, often sharing the pattern with friends whose daughters also liked the crochet-along mom and daughter routine!    (Most of these "patterns" were never more than hurried scribbles on scrap paper)

Anyway, a few days ago I was chatting on Whatsapp to my friend who now lives in Cape Town, and she sent me a photo of herself wearing a scarf.   "Kyk wat kry ek in die stoorkamer" (look what I found in the storeroom) she said!    One of my little patterns she had made with her girls about 16 years ago!   "Ek wil weer so een maak" (I want to make another) she said!   "Kan jy onthou hoe?" (can you remember how?).    Hhmm - vaguely....

Picked up my hook and some variegated and an hour and a half later ......... ta-dah

So much fun!

Made another so that I could write the pattern - of course I had to add a bit of extra flair to this one!!

At less than 100g for an adult scarf (probably about 50g for a little girl's scarf) this is a perfect project to keep little hands busy on cold or rainy afternoons!

The scarf takes very little time to crochet, making it a great "rescue" when you need a gift in a hurry!

Busy tidying the pattern up (my friend in Cape Town is doing a quick test for me) so that I can share it with you in time for next weekend!

Zooty Owl Trivets: Pattern

I have been messing around with the font style and size on my blog and for some unknown reason extra line spaces have started inserting themselves.    No matter what I do I just cannot seem to get rid of them.    So please excuse the weird spacing - I am trying to figure it out!    Blogger does seem to be misbehaving today - wrongs dates and all sorts of funnies!!

Whilst on my Autumn cleaning mission my ideas got a bit of a clear out too !

This was initially supposed to be a cushion (made from Chunky yarn), but after about six attempts at the gusset I gave it up as a bad job.    I was about to frog the idea altogether then I thought - HEY!!! -  Owl Trivets for my daughter's kitchen! Could work??

The Owl Body I had designed for the cushion was a "solid" circle.    Since I was a bit Mandala Crazy at the time of making these trivets I designed a Mandala Body for the Trivet

(I will add directions in the pattern for those who would rather use the "solid" version)

The feet and the beak on the first one were a bit of a production.   I was happier with the second trivet, which I made while writing out the pattern:

Made a third trivet for the photo tutorial - sewed the beak on really skew.   I was about to unpick it and re-attach it when my son said I must leave it - he reckons that is how I pull my mouth when I am unimpressed with something!!   (Apparently that was exactly what I WAS doing when I saw how skew the beak was!!)

and a fourth while running through the pattern with the testers:

Eleanor Thomson, who has a lovely blog called NELNANANDNORA, was one of the ladies kind enough to test this pattern for me (Thank you so much Eleanor!!).  Here is her Zooty Owl Trivet:

HANDMADE BY:   ELEANOR THOMSON

ZOOTY OWL TRIVET

PATTERN TERMS:   US

My patterns are all written in US terms - I have included this little chart to make it easier for my UK readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.

Skill Level:  Easy

Approximate Time:  3 hours

I would recommend any DK 100% cotton if this IS going to be used as a trivet (or in the kitchen) - if not, any yarn whatsoever can be used - from 2ply to t-shirt yarn (depending on what you would like to use it for!!)

Use whatever hook size suits your choice of yarn and your tension.

MANDALA VERSION: 

Yarn:  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK (100% cotton)

Hook Size:   4.00mm 

Size:  Top of head to foot = 30cm;   Mandala diameter = 23cm

BODY

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to form circle OR make a magic circle 

Row 1:  3 ch (counts as 1 dc), 11 dc into circle (12 dc), sl st into top of 3ch to join, break off yarn

Row 2:  join yarn in any dc; 3ch, 1dc into same place as join;  2dc into each of next 11dc  (12 x 2dc groupings = 24dc), sl st into top of 3ch at start to close, break off yarn.
  
Row 3:  Join yarn in sp bet any 2dc grouping;   3ch, 2dc in same sp as join; 3dc into each of next 11 sps bet 2dc groupings; sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (12 x 3dc groupings - 36dc);  break off yarn

Row 4:  Join yarn in sp between any 3dc grouping;   3ch 1dc, 2ch, 2dc into same space as join;  (2dc, 2ch, 2dc into each of next 11 spaces between 3dc groupings)  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 5:  Join yarn in 2ch sp in the middle of any grouping;   In same sp as join 3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc, 1ch, 3dc, 1ch;   (3dc, 1ch, 3dc into middle 2ch sp of next grouping; 1 ch) x 11;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 6:  Join yarn in any 1ch sp;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same sp as join, 1ch;  (3dc into next 1ch sp, 1ch) repeat to end;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 7:   Join yarn in 1ch sp between any 3dc grouping;   3ch 1dc, 2ch, 2dc into same space as join;  (2dc, 2ch, 2dc into next  space between 3dc groupings) repeat to end;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 8:  Join yarn in 2ch sp in the middle of any grouping;  in same sp as join 3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc, 1ch;   (4dc in 2ch sp in the middle of next grouping, 1ch) repeat to end;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 9:  Join yarn in sp bet any 4dc grouping;   in same sp as join 3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc, 1ch;   (4dc in next sp between groupings;  1ch) repeat to end;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 10:  Join yarn in 1ch sp between two 4dc groupings;  3ch (counts as 1dc) in same 1ch sp as join;  1dc into each of next 4dc;  (1dc into 1ch sp bet two 4dc groupings; 1dc into each of next 4dc) repeat to end;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.

HEAD

In same colour as Row 10;

Note:  Head worked over 37 stitches

Row 11:    4ch (counts as 1trc) in same sp as sl st;  1trc into each of next 6dc;   1dc into each of next 7 dc;  1hdc into each of next 4dc;  1 sc into next dc;  1hdc into each of next 4dc;  1dc into each of next 7dc;  1trc into each of next 7trc;   turn

Row 12:  4ch (counts as 1trc);  1trc into each of next 6trc;  1dc into each of next 7dc;  1hdc into each of next 4hdc; 1sc into sc; 1hdc into each of next 4hdc;  1dc into each of next 7dc;  1trc into each of next 7trc,  turn

Row 13 - 15:   Repeat Row 12

EYES 

MAKE 2

Foundation:  navy, black or dark brown yarn - 4ch, sl st into first chain to form a circle or make a magic circle.

Row 1:  2ch (counts as 1hdc) into same place as sl st;  9 hdc into circle;  sl st into top of 2ch at start to close (10hdc);  break of yarn.

Row 2:  blue or green - Join yarn in top of any hdc,  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc in same sp as join;  (2hdc into top of next hdc) x9, sl st into top of 2ch at start to close (10 x 2hdc groupings = 20hdc);   break off yarn.

Row 3:  white - Join yarn between any two 2hdc groupings;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same sp as join;  (3dc into each next space 2hdc groupings) x9;  (10 x 3dc groupings = 30dc);   sl st into top of 3ch at start;  break off yarn.

Row 4:  beige - Join yarn between any 3dc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc into same sp as join;  4dc into each sp between 3dc groupings;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 5:  grey - join yarn in any dc;  1ch, 1sc in same dc as join;  1sc into each dc;  sl st into 1ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 6:  (same colour as the last round of the Mandala Body) - join yarn in any sc; 1ch, 1sc in same sc as join;  1sc into each sc;   sl st into 1ch at start to close;   break off yarn leaving a long tail to work eyes on to head

BEAK

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to for circle OR make a magic circle 

Row 1:  3 ch (counts as 1 dc), 12 dc into circle (13 dc), sl st into top of 3ch to join

Row 2:  1ch, 1sc into same place as sl st; 1sc into each of next 3dc;  2hdc into next dc;  2dc into next dc;   (1dc, 1trc, 1dtrc, 1trc, 1dc) into next dc;  2dc into next dc;   2hdc into next dc, 1sc into next 4dc;  sl st into 1st sc to close

Row 3:  1ch, 1sc into same place as sl st;   1sc into each of next 3 stitches;  2sc into next st;  1sc into next st;  2sc into next st;  1sc into next 3 st;  (1sc, 1hdc, 1sc) in next st;    1sc in next 4st;  2sc into next st;  1sc into next st;  2sc into next st, 1sc into next 4st;   sl st into first sc to close.   Break off yarn.

Detail:  Rejoin yarn in a contrasting colour with a sl st.    sl st into each st around beak, break off yarn at last sl st.  

With a tapestry needle, pull the yarn through from front to back on the first ss, pull to tighten neatly. then thread the yarn through the back loops on the next few ss.   Weave in to secure.
  

FEET

5dc spikes worked into Row 9 as follows:

Right Foot is worked over a 4dc grouping and the space directly after the 4dc grouping
Left Foot is worked into the space directly before a 4dc grouping, and then over the 4dc grouping.

The centre of each foot will be worked in line with the centre of each eye

Row 1:  Join yarn to hook with a sl st;   Working on right side of work crochet standing dc into sp between 4dc groups on Row 9; 1ch;   (1dc spike into top of dc in four dc group on Row 9) x4

Turn (working on wrong side)

Row 2:  Ch 3, 3dc into first 1ch sp;   sl st into next 1ch sp,   4ch, 3trc into same sp as sl st;  sl st into next 1ch sp,  3ch, 3dc into same sp as sl st;   sl st into next 1ch sp,  break off yarn.

SOLID VERSION:

Yarn:  Strawberries & Cream (50% recycled cotton / 50% Acrylic)

Hook Size:   4.50mm

Size:  Top of head to foot = 34cm;   Mandala diameter = 25cm

BODY

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to form circle OR make a magic circle

Row 1: 3ch, 11 dc into circle, sl st to close

Row 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc into same dc as sl st from Row 1;   (2dc into each dc) x 11 = 24dc;   sl st to close

Row 3: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same dc as sl st;  1dc into next dc;  (2dc into next dc;  1dc into next dc) x 11 times = 36dc;   sl st to close

Row 4:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same dc as sl st;  1dc into each of next 2dc;  (2dc into next dc, 1 dc into each of next 2dc) x11 = 48dc;   sl st to close

Rows 5 - 10:  For each subsequent round continue to do 2dc into top of 1st of "double" dc of the previous row;   1dc into top of 2nd of "double" dc;  1dc into each single dc.    This means that every row increases by 12 stitches - thus keeping the work flat.

EYES and BEAK worked as for the Mandala Version.

FEET as for the Mandala Version, but the 5dc spikes are worked into the spaces between 5 consecutive dc.

A FEW IDEAS:

The Solid Version would make a great rug.    For this you could use sheet yarn, t-shirt yarn or even plastic yarn (plarn)

The Trivets are a little bit floppy - you could add a quilted backing to make them firmer and more heat resistant.    I am going to sew mine onto a layer of very heavy denim.    (I always wash the crochet and the denim first - just in case there is any shrinkage!)

You could decorate the owls (especially the Solid Version) if you wanted to use it as a wall hanging.  I have added ear tufts and MAGIC RING FLOWERS (with 5 petals instead of 6).   Think I might add a few beads and buttons too ......

Will post a photo when I have had enough fun decorating this one!