Bunny Scarf with Pockets

This little scarf worked in soft acrylic chunky yarn can be made for either a girl or a boy.  To make a little boy bunny, remove the flower and add a tuft of yarn hair.

The pocket behind the bunny face will keep little hands warm on a cold day, and are the ideal place to hide a few extra Easter treats.

The pattern is available in my Ravelry Store (HERE)

Flower Granny Stripe Scarves: Pattern

A colourful and easy project!    Perfect for novices but fun for any skill level!

GRANNY STRIPE SCARVES MADE WITH A COMBINATION OF ELLE RUSTICA AND ELLE CLASSIC WOOL

(A print-friendly version of this pattern can be found HERE)

The pattern is designed to be worked in a 100% acrylic "economy" DK (8ply / light worsted weight) yarn, but it works up lovely in courtelle, 100% wool, acrylic/wool blends, and cottons.

GRANNY STRIPE SCARVES MADE WITH ELLE PULLSKEIN DK

The pattern also works up well in Aran (10ply / medium worsted weight) yarn

FLOWER GRANNY SCARVES:    PATTERN

Yarn:    DK / 8ply / Light Worsted Weight
Hook:   5.50mm 
Foundation:  17ch
Length:  160cm
Quantities:  Approximately 100g of your main colour and 10 - 20grams of your contrast colours

THIS PATTERN IS WRITTEN IN US TERMS

Basic Stitches:   We are using five basic stitches only - chain (ch);  single crochet (sc);  double crochet (dc); triple crochet (trc) and a slip stitch (sl st) (US terms); 

UK CROCHETERS will be using a double crochet (dc) (single crochet in US);   treble (tr) (double crochet in US);  double treble (dtr) (triple crochet in US);  chain (ch);   and slip stich (sl st)

Granny Stripe Panel

Foundation:  17ch

Row 1:    Into 6th chain from hook, 3dc;    (skip 2ch, 3dc into next ch) x 3;  skip next ch;   1ch, 1dc into last ch;    turn work

Row 2:   3ch (counts as 1dc);   2dc into 1ch space;  (3dc into space between 3dc groupings) x 3;   3dc into space at end of row;   turn work

Row 3:   4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch);   (3dc into space between 3dc groupings) x 4;   1ch, 1dc into top of 3ch at end of row;   turn work 
 

Even Rows 4 - 118 (Repeat Row 2)

Odd Rows 5 - 119 (Repeat Row 3)

On 119 Rows the Granny Stripe Panel measures 130cm.     The scarf is easily made shorter by crocheting fewer rows.

Make two traditional granny squares as follows:

Traditional Granny Square:

Foundation:  4ch, sl st to form ring OR make a magic ring

Row 1:    3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc into circle,  2ch (3dc into circle, 2ch) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn.

Row 2:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Row 3:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   3dc into space between 3dc groupings;  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space;   3dc into next space between 3dc groupings) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Row 4:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   1dc into the top of each dc up to the corner;  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space;   1dc into the top of each dc up to the corner) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Use whatever method you are comfortable with to join your square to your main work-piece.   (I used the join-as-you go method to join my squares, by making a slip st every third stitch from my granny square into my main work-piece (make sure that the right side of both squares face in the same direction when you join)

Border:

Worked along the length of the scarf on both sides - right side facing

Row 1:  Join yarn in corner of granny square (right side facing);   3ch, 1dc into each dc; 1dc into corner space, 1dc across join;   2dc into side of each post along the granny rows;  1dc across join, 1dc into corner space, 1dc into each dc, 1dc into corner of granny, break off yarn.

Row 2:   Join yarn in top of 3ch on row 2, 1sc into each dc across the length of the scarf, break off yarn

Row 3:  Join yarn in 1st single crochet,   3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc in same space as join;   (skip 2sc, sl st into 3rd sc;   skip 2sc, 6dc in next sc) repeat to last 6sc;   skip 2sc, sl st in next sc; skip 2sc, 3dc in last sc, break off yarn

Your scarf now looks like this:

Fringe Edging:

Worked along both ends of the scarf in the same colour as the Shell Border Row 

Row 1:  Working on the right side of your work, join yarn into side post of shell row;  2sc into same place as join,  1sc into side post of sc row, 2sc into side post of dc row; 1sc into each dc across granny square;   2sc into side post of dc row;  1sc into side post of sc row;  2sc into side post of shell row, turn work (27sc)

Row 2:  Working on the wrong side of your work, 1ch, 1sc into same place as 1st sc, 1sc into each of next 26sc, turn work.

Row 3:  working on the right side of your work, (15ch, Popcorn Stitch into fourth ch from hook, 12ch, skip 2sc, sl st into 3rd sc) x 9.   Break off yarn.

EMBELLISHMENTS

Add as many flowers as you like (or none at all), you can even add beads or buttons to "customize" your scarf!

Pansy Flower:
 
Foundation: 3ch or make a magic ring

Petals:  (3ch, 4 trc, 3ch, sl st into ring) x 2;   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring;   3ch, 2trc, 3ch sl st into ring,   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring,    break off yarn.

Embroider the flower centres in a contrasting colour

Leaves: 

Foundation:  6ch

Leaf:  1sc into 2nd ch from hook; 1sc into next ch, 1hdc into each of next 2ch;  6dc into last chain (this will form the curve of your leaf and will bring you around to the bottom end of the chain);   working along the bottom edge of the chain, 1hdc into each of next 2ch; 1sc into next ch,  sl st into next ch, break off yarn.

********************************************

A HUGE Thank You!!! to the lovely ladies who tested the pattern for me:

Eleanor Thompson of  NELNANANDNORA

 
 Samatha Overcashier of Simply Samatha

Michelle Westlund of CROCHET BETWEEN TWO WORLDS

Flower Granny Scarves: Print Friendly Pattern

FLOWER GRANNY SCARVES:    PATTERN

THE PHOTO TUTORIAL BLOG POST CAN BE FOUND HERE

Yarn:    DK / 8ply / Light Worsted Weight
Hook:   5.50mm 
Foundation:  17ch
Length:  160cm

THIS PATTERN IS WRITTEN IN US TERMS

Basic Stitches:   We are using five basic stitches only - chain (ch);  single crochet (sc);  double crochet (dc); triple crochet (trc) and a slip stitch (sl st) (US terms); 

UK CROCHETERS will be using a double crochet (dc) (single crochet in US);   treble (tr) (double crochet in US);  double treble (dtr) (triple crochet in US);  chain (ch);   and slip stich (sl st)

Granny Stripe Panel

Foundation:   17ch

Row 1:    Into 6th chain from hook, 3dc;    (skip 2ch, 3dc into next ch) x 3;  skip next ch;   1ch, 1dc into last ch;    turn work


Row 2:   3ch (counts as 1dc);   2dc into 1ch space;  (3dc into space between 3dc groupings) x 3;   3dc into space at end of row;   turn work


Row 3:   4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch);   (3dc into space between 3dc groupings) x 4;   1ch, 1dc into top of 3ch at end of row;   turn work 
 
Even Rows 4 - 120 (Repeat Row 2)
Odd Rows 5 - 119 (Repeat Row 3)

On 120 Rows the Granny Stripe Panel measures 130cm.     The scarf is easily made shorter by crocheting fewer rows.

Make two traditional granny squares as follows:
Traditional Granny Square:

Foundation:  4ch, sl st to form ring OR make a magic ring

Row 1:    3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc into circle,  2ch (3dc into circle, 2ch) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn.

Row 2:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Row 3:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   3dc into space between 3dc groupings;  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space;   3dc into next space between 3dc groupings) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Row 4:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   1dc into the top of each dc up to the corner;  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space;   1dc into the top of each dc up to the corner) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Use whatever method you are comfortable with to join your square to your main work-piece.   (I used the join-as-you go method to join my squares, by making a slip st every third stitch from my granny square into my main work-piece (make sure that the right side of both squares face in the same direction when you join)


Border:
Worked along the length of the scarf on both sides - right side facing

Row 1:  Join yarn in corner of granny square (right side facing);   3ch, 1dc into each dc; 1dc into corner space, 1dc across join;   2dc into side of each post along the granny rows;  1dc across join, 1dc into corner space, 1dc into each dc, 1dc into corner of granny, break off yarn.


Row 2:   Join yarn in top of 3ch on row 2, 1sc into each dc across the length of the scarf, break off yarn


Row 3:  Join yarn in 1st single crochet,   3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc in same space as join;   (skip 2sc, sl st into 3rd sc;   skip 2sc, 6dc in next sc) repeat to last 6sc;   skip 2sc, sl st in next sc; skip 2sc, 3dc in last sc, break off yarn


Fringe Edging:
Worked along both ends of the scarf in the same colour as the Shell Border Row 

Row 1:  Working on the right side of your work, join yarn into side post of shell row;  2sc into same place as join,  1sc into side post of sc row, 2sc into side post of dc row; 1sc into each dc across granny square;   2sc into side post of dc row;  1sc into side post of sc row;  2sc into side post of shell row, turn work (27sc)


Row 2:  Working on the wrong side of your work, 1ch, 1sc into same place as 1st sc, 1sc into each of next 26sc, turn work.

Row 3:  working on the right side of your work, (15ch, Popcorn Stitch into fourth ch from hook, 12ch, skip 2sc, sl st into 3rd sc) x 9.   Break off yarn.


EMBELLISHMENTS
Add as many flowers as you like (or none at all), you can even add beads or buttons to "customize" your scarf!


Pansy Flower:
Foundation: 3ch or make a magic ring

Petals:  (3ch, 4 trc, 3ch, sl st into ring) x 2;   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring;   3ch, 2trc, 3ch sl st into ring,   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring,    break off yarn.

Embroider the flower centres in a contrasting colour

Leaves: 
Foundation:  6ch

Leaf:  1sc into 2nd ch from hook; 1sc into next ch, 1hdc into each of next 2ch;  6dc into last chain (this will form the curve of your leaf and will bring you around to the bottom end of the chain);   working along the bottom edge of the chain, 1hdc into each of next 2ch; 1sc into next ch,  sl st into next ch, break off yarn.

Border and Edging: Baby Groovyghan CAL (9)

We have reached the end of our Baby Groovyghan Crochet Along!    I hope you have had as much fun making this as I have!

For those joining in now (or for those who are a little behind) here are the links to the previous posts:

WEEK 1 - RAINBOWS AND DAISIES SQUARES

WEEK 2 - RAINBOW HALF GRANNY SQUARES

WEEK 3 - THE FIRST STRIPES

WEEK 4 - CIRCLES IN SQUARES

WEEK 5 - ZOOTY OWL SQUARE

WEEK 6 - ITS STARTING TO LOOK A LOT LIKE A BABY GROOVYGHAN

WEEK 7 - POPCORN FLOWER SQUARES 

WEEK 8 - TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARES 

This is what my Baby Groovyghan looked like at the end of Week 8:

Pattern Terms:  US 
Yarn:  Mirage 4ply 
Hook Size:  3.50mm
Final Measurement:  106cm x 86cm

Yarn Quantities:   White (200g);   Green (100g);  Pink (75g);  Purple (75g);  Orange (75g);   Yellow (50g)

My patterns are all written in US terms.  For those readers who are used to UK terms I will be including this little conversion chart in all my patterns for ease of reference.

BORDER 

Row 1

Bottom end: Join your yarn (I used white) into the 1st dc after the corner 3ch on the bottom end of the blanket

3ch in same place as join (counts as 1dc), 1dc into the top of each dc, when you reach a corner on a block 1dc into corner, 1dc into loop of  join, 1dc into corner on next block.   Repeat this to the end of the row of blocks;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into corner 3ch;

Around the first side: 1dc into the top of each dc on the side of the block;   2dc into the corner   

*1dc into first dc of your first row of stripes;   2dc into the first dc on your next row of stripes;   continue across the stripes alternating 1dc then 2dc into each of the following stripes;

2dc into corner of next block;   1dc into the top of each dc;   2dc into the corner*

Repeat *to* across blocks and stripes until the last dc on the top corner block,  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into corner 3ch;

Top end:  1dc into the top of each dc, when you reach a corner on a block 1dc into corner, 1dc into loop of  join, 1dc into corner on next block.   Repeat this to the end of the row of blocks;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into corner 3ch

Around the second side: As for the first side.  Sl st into the top of 3ch at start of bottom end.

Row 2:  3ch into same space as sl st on Row 1 (counts as 1dc);  1dc into top of each dc;   into 3ch sp at corner 2dc, 3ch, 2dc.   Repeat around all four sides.   Sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.   Break off yarn

Row 3:  Join yarn in any corner 3ch sp;   6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch), 3dc in same space as join;   (skip two spaces, into third space from hook 3dc;  rep to last 3dc before 3ch corner space;   3dc, 3ch, 3dc into 3ch space) x 3;   skip two spaces, into third space from hook 3dc;   rep to last 3dc before 3ch corner space;   2dc into 3ch sp;   sl st into 3rd of 6ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 4:   Join yarn in any space between 3dc groupings;   1ch, 1sc into same space as join;  (3ch, 1sc into next space between 3dc groupings) repeat until 3ch cnr space is reached;  3ch, 1sc, 3ch, 1sc into corner space.    Repeat along all four sides and corners.   Sl st into 1ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp (not a corner);   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same space as join;   3dc into each 3ch space;   into corner 3ch space do 3dc, 3ch, 3dc;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 6:  Repeat Row 4 

EDGING

Row 7:   Join yarn in any 3ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc in same space as join, 3ch;   (2dc into next 3ch sp, 3ch) repeat along all sides;   into each corner 3ch space crochet 2dc, 3ch, 2dc, 3ch;   all around sl st into top of 3ch space at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 8:  Join yarn with a standing sc between any two dc on any side;  (standing sc = make a slip knot, insert the hook into the 3ch space, yarn over hook, pull loop to front of work;  yarn over hook again, pull through both loops on your hook)

(5ch,   remove loop from hook,   insert hook from front to back of work through the 3ch sp,   put loop back on hook and pull through to front of work through the 3ch sp, insert hook front to back through the sp between next two dc and crochet 1sc) repeat all around until last 3ch sp -  follow the steps above but instead of forming the sc between the 2dc you will make a sl st into the top of the start sc

This was quite difficult to explain and so I made a little video - in slow motion - to show you how!     (First attempt at a crochet video EVER!     Quality is not brilliant - still a steep learning curve here)

I have finally managed to work in all the ends (seems like there were a million!!) and my blanket is ready for its grand debut!!!

This blanket has been dragged around everywhere for my little photoshoots! 

It is now seriously grubby and has been tugged out of shape a bit.   A gentle wash and tumble dry with those delightfully scented non-static sheets will sort that out nicely!

 I love the GROOVY edging!!

The outside photoshoots etc have rendered this blanket unfit for use as a baby blanket - so  it will become a display piece in my workshop.

Just look at all those lovely bright colours!

PS:    Pattern was written, made and tested by me alone!   If you find any bloopers please point them out and I will fix them asap!

Mood Blanket 2014 - Change of Pace

I last posted progress on my Mood Blanket in mid March (HERE).

I was getting a bit bored with taking photos of the same old squares over and over (and over) and wanted to change the design a bit to indicate the change of season and also to make the project more interesting!

Stripes seemed like a good idea, but a stripe a day would result in a very long blanket!    Two rows a week (in the overall mood for that week) keeps the blanket more or less in line with the size I had planned from the start.

At the end of March there were five blocks short on my last row, and so the first five days of April had to be squares!

My mood rows so far:

Pink = Sociable (6 - 12 April)
Green = Inspired (13 - 19 April)
Yellow = Happy (20 - 26 April)
Orange = Energetic (27 April - 3 May)
Purple = Grateful (4 May - 10 May)

Traditional Granny Squares: Baby Groovyghan CAL(8)

I am still suffering from extreme Manda-litis.     This seems to be having a serious impact on my other crocheting - that is why this post is a little late - I am still playing catch up with my own Baby Groovyghan!

For those joining in now (or for those who are a little behind) here are the links to the previous posts:

WEEK 1 - RAINBOWS AND DAISIES SQUARES

WEEK 2 - RAINBOW HALF GRANNY SQUARES

WEEK 3 - THE FIRST STRIPES

WEEK 4 - CIRCLES IN SQUARES

WEEK 5 - ZOOTY OWL SQUARE

WEEK 6 - ITS STARTING TO LOOK A LOT LIKE A BABY GROOVYGHAN

WEEK 7 - POPCORN FLOWER SQUARES 

This is what my Baby Groovyghan looked like at the end of Week 7:

 

I chose the Mirage 4ply, which comes in these cutesy little 25g balls, because it the only locally available brand with a selection of wonderful bright (almost neon) colours!   A number of people have asked me where they can acquire yarn in the colours used in this project.   Mirage 4py does, however, only seem to be available here in South Africa,  but I have noticed that our South African 4ply is more or less equivalent to the Stylecraft Special DK HERE.

There are 59 shades to choose from in the Stylecraft Special DK range, among which you will find a lovely bright orange, yellow, a green, a pink and a purple!   Deramores delivers worldwide and their service is brilliant!

Our final row will be a row of Traditional Granny Squares since no Groovyghan would be quite complete without at least 1 row of grannies!

Pattern Terms:  US 
Yarn:  Mirage 4ply 
Hook Size:  350mm

My patterns are all written in US terms.  For those readers who are used to UK terms I will be including this little conversion chart in all my patterns for ease of reference.

Crochet 5 Stripes onto the bottom of the row of Popcorn Flower Squares as follows:

Row 1:   Join your white yarn (or whatever colour you are using as your border colour) into the corner 3ch of the first square in the row;    3ch in same place as join (counts as 1dc);  1dc into the top of each dc, when you reach a corner on a block 1dc into corner, 1dc into loop of  join, 1dc into corner on next block.   Repeat this to the end of the row of blocks.  1dc into the last corner 3ch. 

Rows 2 - 5:   "Granny Stripe"

Row 2:  Into space between first 2 double crochet on the wrong side of your work, crochet 3ch, 2dc,  *skip two spaces, into third space from hook 3dc* rep *to* to last 4dc, 3dc into space between last 2dc. 

Row 3:  turn work - now working on the right side;  ch 4;  *3dc into space between clusters* rep *to* to last sp between clusters, ch 1, 1dc into sp between last dc on final cluster of Row 2

Row 4:   Working on the wrong side of your work;  3ch, 2dc into 1ch sp at end of prev row (i.e the start of this row);  *3dc into space between each cluster* rep *to* to last sp between clusters

Row 5:  Repeat Row 3

Crochet 5 Stripes onto the Top of the row of Popcorn Flower Squares as follows:

Row 1:   Join your white yarn (or whatever colour you are using as your border colour) into the corner 3ch of the first square in the row;  3ch in same place as join (counts as 1dc);  1dc into the top of each hdc, when you reach a corner on a block 1dc into corner, 1dc into loop of  join, 1dc into corner on next block.   Repeat this to the end of the row of blocks.  1dc into the last corner 3ch.

Row 2 - 5:   In the colour of your choice join yarn into first dc of previous row;  3ch (counts as first dc), 1dc into top of each dc; 1dc into the 1ch over each join;  repeat to end

NOTE:  Rows 1, 3 and 5 are worked on the right side of your work;  Rows 2 and 4 are worked on the wrong side of your work.

Join the 5th (bottom) row of the Popcorn Flower Squares  to the 5th (top) row of the Zooty Owl Squares using the VISIBLE JOIN

Another photo hurriedly taken while precariously perched on a wall!  (Hubby fears finding me lying on the ground with a few broken bones!  - so I quickly take photos from my "perch" when he is not looking!)

For the final row make 8 Traditional Granny Squares.

I was going to do a little tutorial for the Granny Square, but I found a brilliant one over at LITTLE TIN BIRD 

Join your traditional granny squares using the Visible Join.

Crochet 5 Stripes onto the Bottom of the row of Traditional Granny Squares as follows:

Row 1:   Join your white yarn (or whatever colour you are using as your border colour) into the corner 3ch of the first square in the row;   3ch in same place as join (counts as 1dc);   1dc into the top of each hdc, when you reach a corner on a block 1dc into corner, 1dc into loop of  join, 1dc into corner on next block.   Repeat this to the end of the row of blocks.  1dc into the last corner 3ch.

Row 2 - 5:   In the colour of your choice join yarn into first dc of previous row;  3ch (counts as first dc), 1dc into top of each dc; 1dc into the 1ch over each join;  repeat to end

NOTE:  Rows 1, 3 and 5 are worked on the right side of your work;  Rows 2 and 4 are worked on the wrong side of your work

Next week is the final instalment of this CAL - the border!!

Happy crocheting until then!

Popcorn Flower Square: Baby Groovyghan CAL(7)

With all the holidays and the excitement about my STARFLOWER MANDALA PATTERN I almost forgot to write this post!

For those joining in now (or for those who are a little behind) here are the links to the previous posts:

WEEK 1 - RAINBOWS AND DAISIES SQUARES

WEEK 2 - RAINBOW HALF GRANNY SQUARES

WEEK 3 - THE FIRST STRIPES

WEEK 4 - CIRCLES IN SQUARES

WEEK 5 - ZOOTY OWL SQUARE

WEEK 6 - ITS STARTING TO LOOK A LOT LIKE A BABY GROOVYGHAN

After you have completed Week 6, your Baby Groovyghan should be looking something like this:

Onto the top of the "Zooty Owl" row, crochet 5 stripes as follows:

Row 1:   Join your white yarn (or whatever colour you are using as your border colour) into the corner 3ch of the first square in the row; 1dc into the top of each dc, when you reach a corner on a block 1dc into corner, 1dc into loop of  join, 1dc into corner on next block.   Repeat this to the end of the row of blocks.  1dc into the last corner 3ch.
 
Rows 2 - 5:   "Granny Stripe"

Row 2:  Into space between first 2 double crochet on the wrong side of your work, crochet 3ch, 2dc,  *skip two spaces, into third space from hook 3dc* rep *to* to last 4dc, 3dc into space between last 2dc. 

Row 3:  turn work - now working on the right side;  ch 4;  *3dc into space between clusters* rep *to* to last sp between clusters, ch 1, 1dc into sp between last dc on final cluster of Row 2 

Row 4:   Working on the wrong side of your work;  3ch, 2dc into 1ch sp at end of prev row (i.e the start of this row);  *3dc into space between each cluster* rep *to* to last sp between clusters 

Row 5:  Repeat Row 3

Make 8 POPCORN FLOWER SQUARES and join together using the Visible Join

Pattern Terms:  US 
Yarn:  Mirage 4ply 
Hook Size:  350mm 

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to join OR make a magic ring;

Row 1:  3 ch (counts as 1 dc):  11 dc into circle (12 dc), sl st into top of 3ch to join;

Row 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into top of  same dc;  [2dc into top of next dc (2dc group)] x11 = 24dc
 
Row 3:  Join yarn in any space between a 2dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same space as join; form popcorn, 2ch;  (popcorn stitch into space between next 2dc group, 2ch) x 11;   sl st into top of first popcorn to join

NOTE:   A Popcorn Stitch is formed by crocheting 5dc then removing the hook from the last loop, inserting the hook front to back on the first dc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through

Row 4:  Join yarn in any 2ch space between popcorns;  6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch), 2dc into same space as join;  (3hdc into each of next two 2ch spaces;  3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 2ch space) x 3;  3hdc into each of next 2ch spaces;  2dc into same space as join, sl st into loop formed at start

Row 5:  [3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc , 3ch, 3dc into same space as ss;  3dc into each of next 3 spaces between 3dc groups,  3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next space] x3;   3hdc into each of next 3 spaces between 3dc groups;   sl st into top of 3ch at start

Row 6:  3dc into space between each 3dc group;  into corner 3ch crochet 3dc, 3ch, 3dc - to end, sl st to close

This is what my Baby Groovyghan looks like so far:

Next week we do the final stripes and blocks, and the week after (the final week) we will do the border.

The finished blanket if you are using 4ply and a 3.50 mm hook should be approximately  85cm x 110cm

Happy Hooking!!!