This is a fun project for any skill level though - super to take along on holiday (I just did) or for in front of the telly!
(A print-friendly version of this pattern can be found HERE)
The pattern is designed to be worked in a 100% acrylic "economy" DK (8ply / light worsted weight) yarn, but it works up quite wonderfully in a more luxurious yarn!
The stitch composition is very uncomplicated - making the pattern suitable for both variegated and solid colour yarns!
Various yarn blends also work well with this pattern – Courtelle, 100% wool, acrylic/wool blends and cottons.
Thinner yarns may be used – just keep repeating the pattern row (Row 3) until you reach the required size. Always make sure you end on an odd number of rows before starting your edging!
Thicker yarns may also be used, such as chunky (12 - 14ply) or super chunky (14 - 16ply).
Notes:
Right Side / Wrong Side:
We will talk about every odd row as the right side (eg, rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 etc are the right side);
and every even row as the wrong side (eg, rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 etc)
Side Increases are made at the beginning AND end of every row.
The increase of 2dc at the beginning of a row is made into the 1ch space at the end of the previous row.
The increase of 2dc at the end of the row is made into the 4ch loop which is formed at the start of the previous row (you will note that at the beginning of a row I say that the 4ch counts as 1dc, 1ch, so this is not "seen" as a 4ch loop when working the next row but as a 1ch space and then 1dc at the very end of the row - when writing the pattern I will NOT say to crochet into the 4ch loop at the end of the row - I DO say to crochet into the 1ch space at the end of the row
The Point (or corner) is formed in your very first row (2dc, 3ch, 2dc).
Throughout the shawl you will work 2dc, 3ch, 2dc into the 3ch space from the previous row. (Effectively increasing your stitch count over the point or corner with 2dc on every row)
If your increases are correct you WILL have a perfect triangle.
If the triangle pulls outward - you are increasing too much.
If the triangle pulls inward (like a kite) you are increasing too little.
An easy "check" is to count your stitches - each row should increase with a multiple of six: Row 1 = 6; Row 2 = 12; Row 3 = 18; Row 4 = 24; Row 5 = 30 and so on. Once you have the first few rows correct you probably won't need to count any more.
Triangle: The shawl is worked seamlessly (in one piece) from the top to the bottom - your first row being the top of the shawl which will lie behind your neck and the last row being the bottom which will hang down over your back.
Stitches: We are using five basic stitches only for the shawl - chain (ch); single crochet (sc); half double crochet (hdc) and double crochet (dc) (US terms);
and then also a slip stitch (sl st) on the edging;
UK CROCHETERS will be using a double crochet (dc) (single crochet in US); half treble (htr) (half double crochet in US) and a treble (tr) (double crochet in US).
COSMOS FIELDS SHAWL: PATTERN
Yarn: Lollipop DK (100% Acrylic)
Colours: Avo Green; Khaki; Saxe Blue; Violet; Plum (The Lollipop is imported from Turkey - but I have no idea what it is called outside of South Africa. There are however, similar colours in the Stylecraft Special DK - Lime, Meadow, Cloud Blue, Lavender and Plum)
Stripe Composition:
1 row of each: Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 1 - 5)
2 rows of each: Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (Rows 6 - 15)
3 rows of each: Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 16 - 30)
4 rows of each: Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 31 - 50)
1 row of each: Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum
(rows 51 - 55)
1 row Avo (row 56)
1 row Saxe Blue (row 57)
1 row Khaki (row 58)
1 row Violet (row 59)
1 row Saxe Blue (row 60)
1 row Khaki (row 61)
1 row Avo (row 62)
Hook: 5.50mm
Foundation: crochet 6ch
Row 1: Into first chain (the 6th chain from your hook)
[crochet (2dc, 3ch, 2dc - this forms the point of your shawl), 1ch, 1dc]
(turn your work so that you are now working along the "wrong side")
Row 2: 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch)
2dc into 1ch sp
1dc between the next two dc
[2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp (point formed)]
1dc between next two dc; (2dc, 1ch, 1dc) into 1ch sp at end of row
(turn your work so that you are now working along the "right side")
2dc into 1ch sp
1dc between the next two dc
[2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp (point formed)]
1dc between next two dc; (2dc, 1ch, 1dc) into 1ch sp at end of row
(turn your work so that you are now working along the "right side")
Row 3: 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch),
2dc into 1ch sp; 1dc between each dc on
previous row; 2dc, 3ch, 2dc into
point; 1dc between each dc on previous
row; 2dc, 1ch, 1dc into 1ch sp at
end of row
(turn your work)
Rows 4 - 55: Repeat Row 3
(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the red text for the next 52 Rows)
Border:
Row 56: 3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp; [3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space]
repeat this with the last hdc being made into the 3ch space of the point (corner); 3ch; 1hdc into same 3ch space;
[3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] repeat this until there are 3dc posts left at the end of the row; 2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row.
(turn your work)
Row 57: 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp; [3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this until you reach the point (corner)
Into the 3ch space work 3dc, 3ch, 3dc;
[3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this up to and including the last 3ch space;
2dc; 1ch, 1dc into the chain space at the end of the row (turn your work)
Row 58: 3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp; 3ch, skip 2dc; (1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch); repeat this with the last 3ch repeat being made just before the point (corner)
1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc into the 3ch space of the point (corner);
(3ch; 1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch) repeat this to the space before the the last 3dc group;
1hdc into the space after the last 3dc group; 3ch;
2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row.
Row 59: Repeat Row 57
Row 60: Repeat Row 58
Row 61: Repeat Row 57
Row 62: Into the 1ch space at the start of the row work 3dc; (3ch, 1sc into next sp; 3ch, 2dc into next sp) repeat this with your last 2dc being into the corner 3ch; 3ch, and crochet another 2dc into the corner;
(3ch, 1sc into next sp, 3ch, 2dc into next sp) repeat to last sp; 3ch, 2dc into 1ch space at end of row.
(We are now going to do the base edging - the longest side of the triangle which is formed as you do your rows)
Into same 1ch space work 3hdc;
sl st into side of first dc post, (2ch, 1hdc, sl st into side of next dc post) repeat to last dc post, 3hdc, sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to end.
I would just like to say a very special THANK YOU to the following ladies for checking my pattern for me:
Joy Merrill (JOYFUL YARNS'S PATTERN STORE)
Lisa Kingsley (LISA KINGSLEY'S PATTERN STORE)
Michelle Westlund (CROCHET BETWEEN WORLDS)
Eleanor Thomson (Nelnanandnora)
(turn your work)
Rows 4 - 55: Repeat Row 3
(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the red text for the next 52 Rows)
Border:
Row 56: 3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp; [3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space]
repeat this with the last hdc being made into the 3ch space of the point (corner); 3ch; 1hdc into same 3ch space;
[3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] repeat this until there are 3dc posts left at the end of the row; 2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row.
(turn your work)
Row 57: 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp; [3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this until you reach the point (corner)
Into the 3ch space work 3dc, 3ch, 3dc;
[3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this up to and including the last 3ch space;
2dc; 1ch, 1dc into the chain space at the end of the row (turn your work)
Row 58: 3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp; 3ch, skip 2dc; (1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch); repeat this with the last 3ch repeat being made just before the point (corner)
1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc into the 3ch space of the point (corner);
(3ch; 1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch) repeat this to the space before the the last 3dc group;
1hdc into the space after the last 3dc group; 3ch;
2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row.
Row 59: Repeat Row 57
Row 60: Repeat Row 58
Row 61: Repeat Row 57
Row 62: Into the 1ch space at the start of the row work 3dc; (3ch, 1sc into next sp; 3ch, 2dc into next sp) repeat this with your last 2dc being into the corner 3ch; 3ch, and crochet another 2dc into the corner;
(3ch, 1sc into next sp, 3ch, 2dc into next sp) repeat to last sp; 3ch, 2dc into 1ch space at end of row.
(We are now going to do the base edging - the longest side of the triangle which is formed as you do your rows)
Into same 1ch space work 3hdc;
sl st into side of first dc post, (2ch, 1hdc, sl st into side of next dc post) repeat to last dc post, 3hdc, sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to end.
I would just like to say a very special THANK YOU to the following ladies for checking my pattern for me:
Joy Merrill (JOYFUL YARNS'S PATTERN STORE)
Lisa Kingsley (LISA KINGSLEY'S PATTERN STORE)
Michelle Westlund (CROCHET BETWEEN WORLDS)
Eleanor Thomson (Nelnanandnora)
What type of yarn is this equal to in Ohio?
ReplyDeleteIn the US the equivalent would be a light worsted weight yarn, but a medium worsted weight would also work well!
DeleteGreat pattern, many thanks for posting. Roughly how much yarn would be used if done in a single random yarn do you estimate? Just thinking it would be easier yo pack for a trip with a single ball or two!
ReplyDelete1500 metres / 500g (that is how much I used with a bit to spare)
Deletelooks lovely - I must try this!!
ReplyDeleteThank you for the pattern. I love it, your shawl is gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteVery pretty. Thanks for the tutorial.
ReplyDeleteHi Zelna, is this the same pattern as your neon wrap with a different color selection? thank you Lorraine
ReplyDeleteYes it is Lorraine. I will draft up a post for the colours of the Neon Wrap later today!
DeleteAfter crocheting 3 Road Trip Scarfs, I certainly will try this one. It's gorgeous! Thanks, Zelna!
ReplyDeleteJolande (The Netherlands)
Hi Jolande! Please post photos on my Zooty Owl Facebook page - I have made an album for the RTS!
DeleteAnother Zootyowlcards.blogspot.com Gorgeous design! I'm in love! I just hope I can do it:) Thank you so for sharing your gift with us.
ReplyDeleteOh it lovely thanks for sharing,
ReplyDeleteClare x
Beautiful design and very well written pattern. So my yarn is in square yards so do you know a a ballpark yardage please.
ReplyDeleteHi Lori! Yardage would be about 1650 yards.
DeleteBeautiful! I am going to add it to my queue! Thank you for the free pattern and clear instructions!
ReplyDeleteOh that looks so lovely! Thank you for the free tutorial!
ReplyDeleteI have some cotton-merino yarn - I reckon this might be perfect for the pattern!
Take care
Anne
http://crochetbetweentwoworlds.blogspot.de
That would be gorgeous Anne! Please post a photo on my Zooty Owl Facebook page when you have made one!!
DeleteThank you! This is just gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteI thought I posted but did not see it, so here goes again. What size would this pattern fit, would it fit 2XL? IF not how would it be adjusted? Would worsted make it larger? (I imagine it would.) Do you know a USA equivalent that has the colors in worsted weight acrylic? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI am a medium to large - you would have to make it a fair bit bigger to fit 2xl. Worsted weight and a 6.50mm hook should make it quite a bit larger without increasing the number of rows. (If you still want it bigger when you have reached Row 55 just keep repeating Row 3 until it is a few rows short of the required size (taking into consideration that you will still be adding the border). I would think that Red Heart Super Saver would have close to these colours!
DeleteUna belleza!!!!! Gracias por compartir!!!
ReplyDeleteWhat are the final measurements of this piece?
ReplyDeletethank you for shared!!!
ReplyDeleteThank you, that is extremely helpful. I just really want to get started and see if I can make it! You are my role-model!!
ReplyDeleteI found some great yarn in the RHSS. Before I start, I bet I need to rewrite the instructions in USA terms, correct? Where it says dc, I would sc, etc.? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteRHSS will work brilliantly! My patterns are all written in USA terms so you won't have to do any conversion!
DeleteThis looks like the same pattern as the RTS, except for number of rows and the trim rows. Is this true? BTW, I love your designs. You are very talented.
ReplyDeleteThe Road Trip Scarf is a "mesh-type" fabric - 1dc, 1ch. This pattern is works up to a "closed" fabric and is therefore much warmer
DeleteWhat is the size of the completed shawl with the 62 rows done? I have 4 colors and I'm trying to decide on my color pattern. If I do the sequence you suggest I come up with 51 rows and wondered if that will be long enough. I'm making it for my MIL and she's pretty tiny so it may be enough for her with 51rows, but I'll be able to estimate if I know what the completed size will be with 62 rows. I'm an over planner!! THANKS! Marge
ReplyDeleteHi Marge - my final measurement was 1m long and 2m wide.
DeleteThank you for sharing this wonderful pattern with us. The colors you have chosen sing to me.
ReplyDeletebeautiful - thank you!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for your patterns I made th rts first and love love it but I'm really loving this shawl too you are an amazing designer
ReplyDeleteI have just discovered your "road trip" scarf pattern on Ravelry & am definitely going to crochet it. Love the colours you use.
ReplyDeleteI'm just finishing my 2nd shawl this my tribute to the American flag will post a picture when I take a good one thanks again I love your patterns so simple but beautiful! !!! :)
ReplyDeleteBeautiful. Thank you for sharing.
ReplyDeleteMy shaw measures 33" long down the back and 33" across the top between the 2 points. I don't want the back any longer, but I do want more for my arms to be covered. Any idea how I can do this. I have crocheted 41 rows so far. Help!
ReplyDeleteI would suggest "tapering the rows - start the rows out with the dc, then switch to hdc about a quarter of the way towards the point, switch to sc about halfway to the point and about half way around again, then switch to hdc, when you are a quater of the way to the end switch back to dc. (Hope this helps but please feel free to ask again if you are not sure!)
DeleteThank you for that bit of info! I was going to ask you the same question myself. 😊
ReplyDeleteI am so grateful for all the hard work you are constantly putting into your patterns and turorials that you share with us so generously You really did an amazing thing, listing the colors and their order, in this AND.the neon shawl, as I too plan to use it as an everyday accessory and the colors go so well with who I am, and how I dress in daily life. Thank you so much! I truly needed that.
Buen dÃa. Es precioso. Me puede decir si quedarÃa bien con algodon.
ReplyDeleteUn saludo,
Carmen
I have almost finished this shawl and it is coming out beautifully. I did use Bernat Stripes a variegated yarn since I didn't want to keep changing colors and it looks good. Not sure if I want to continue with the variegated for the border or use a solid but I'll see how it goes. Very nice pattern and yes it is an easy pattern for a beginner and even someone like me who has years of experience.
ReplyDelete