I had to get organised!
Started tidying away drawings into a folder, pattern scribbles into another folder, rolling up yarn and packing WIP's and yarns into their bags or baskets!
I sat down to update my to-do-list - on which I only noted projects that can reasonably be completed within the next four weeks or so!
I LOVE a forcefully scribbled list! Indicative of my absolute determination to work through such list - I have already crossed one item off!! The BABY GROOVYGHAN - now washed, tumble-dried and folded neatly on a shelf in my craft room (until I can make up my mind how to display it).
The rest of my WIP's (tooooo many to mention) have been packed away until I have worked through my to-do-list!
It seemed most sensible to start with the items that were either closer to completion or would not take up that much time.
When I posted the SUNNY FLOWER COASTERS and my SUNNY FLOWER MINI MANDALA Patterns in various Facebook Groups I had quite a few requests for variations on the patterns, and since those patterns are already written and tested, the variations are as good a place as any to start (as an added bonus I get to use up all the teeny tiny balls of leftover Raeesah before I dive into my new stash!)
SUNNY FLOWER MOTIF
My patterns are all written in US TERMS.
Yarn: Raeesah Cotton Soft DK (100% cotton)
Skill Level: Novice
Foundation: 4ch, sl sl into 1st ch to form circle OR make a magic circle
Row 1: 3ch (counts as 1dc) ; 11 dc into circle; sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc). Break off yarn.
Row 2: Join yarn into top of any dc, 3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc in same space as join (2dc grouping); *2dc into top of each dc (2dc grouping)* *to* to end; sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (24dc). Break off yarn.
Row 3: Join yarn in space between any 2dc groups; 3ch (counts as 1st tr ), 2trc into next space as follows - work the first and second parts of the stitch leaving last loop on your hook, into next space work the first and second part of 1 trc leaving the last loop on your hook (four loops on hook). Yarn over hook and draw through all the loops on your hook to form your cluster, 4ch; (into same space as last trc, work 1st trc of 4trc cluster; into next space work 2nd & 3rd tr of 4trc cluster; into next space work the last st of 4trc cluster, 4ch) x 11 (12 x 4trc clusters made); sl st into top of first cluster to close. Break off yarn.
Row 4: Join yarn in 4 ch space between clusters; 3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc, 1ch, 3dc in same 4ch sp as join; (into next 4ch sp, 3dc, 1ch, 3dc) x 11, sl st into top of 3ch at start to close. Break off yarn.
Joining the motifs: Each motif is joined-as-you-go at 2 points (2 consecutive 1 ch spaces) on Row 4. At the joining point 3dc, 1ch, on your working motif, 1sc into the motif you are joining to, 1ch, 3dc into your working motif
Join as many as you like - to make a table runner or maybe even a shawl OR make the motifs on their own to use as coasters.
Join yarn in any 1ch space 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc, 3ch picot, 3hdc in same space as join;
(3ch picot; into next 1ch space, 3hdc, 3ch picot, 3hdc) repeat this along the "solid" edge of your runner
When you reach the curve where your join would end if you were adding another motif made 3 x 3ch picots over the gap; 3hdc into the 1ch space where your join would start if you were adding another motif.
Repeat this all around until you react the start point, 3ch picot, sl st into the top of the start 2ch. Break off yarn
A picot is formed by crocheting 3ch and then sl st into the 1st of the 3ch
Time to sit back and enjoy my handiwork with a nice mug of tea and a fresh Chelsea Bun!