Seaside Winter Blanket: Square 9 Umkomaas

Hello Seaside CAL-ers and welcome to Part 9 of our Seaside Winter Blanket Journey!

You will find the Links to all posts relating to this CAL in the "pinned" post at the top of the Group Page.

Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

I will be consolidating the weekly patterns into a single SEASIDE WINTER BLANKET PATTERN, which will be available for purchase on Ravelry.    The single patterns will remain FREE on my blog.

Note:  The two Bonus Squares, "Amanzimtoti"and "Southbroom" are not included in my original layout and have therefore not been included in the count)

Please take a moment to read the following posts, if you have not already done so as they contain important information regarding yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method and other useful CAL information:

INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW  and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR

This week we will be making the "Umkomaas" Square - the 9th CAL Square and the 8th small square, measuring 19cm x 19cm including the two border rounds.     We will be crocheting 2 more small squares and 1 more large square before moving on to the border and edging of the blanket.

Umkomaas was established in 1861 when a harbour was built to export sugar.   The small coastal town  situated along the mouth of the Mkhomazi River (also known as Umkomaas) is rich in both marine and bird wildlife. 

While looking for material for this post, I remembered these two photos of my lovely young mom and me on Umkomaas Beach in 1969!

Please excuse the quality of the photos and the crochet - today has just been one of those disastrous days (the kind where you wish you could just back space and hit "delete")!

UMKOMAAS SQUARE PATTERN

Make 1 x Umkomaas Square for the Baby Blanket Make 2 x Umkomaas Squares for the Lapghan.

PATTERN TERMS:  US

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:

A "Petal" is formed by crocheting 3 tall stitches together as follows:   yoh x 4 (tr trc), work four parts of the stitch only, leaving 2 loops on your hook (do not complete the stitch),  yoh x 3 (dtrc), work three parts of the stitch only, leaving 3 loops on your hook (do not complete the stitch),  yoh x 4 (tr trc), work four parts of the stitch only, leaving four loops on your hook.   yoh Pull the loop through all four loops on your hook.
Note:    your "Start Petal" is worked as follows:   7ch (counts as first tr trc), yoh x 3 (dtrc), work three parts of the stitch only leaving 2 loops on your hook,  yoh x 4 (tr trc), work four parts of the stitch only leaving three loops on your hook.   yoh Pull the loop through all three loops on your hook

Foundation:  4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.

Round 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 15dc into ring.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn

Round 2:  Join yarn in top of any dc;   Work Start Petal into same dc as join;  6ch, skip next dc;  (work Petal into next dc,  6ch, skip next dc) x7.    (8 Petals).   sl st into top of start petal to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 3:  Join yarn in any 6ch sp.   2ch (counts as 1hdc), 7hdc into same sp as join;  (8hdc into next 6ch sp) x7.    Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. (8 x 8hdc groups).  Break off yarn.

Round 4:  Join yarn in 1st hdc on any 8hdc group.   2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc into each of next 7hdc, 2ch;  [(1sc into each of next 8hdc), 2ch;  (1hdc into each of next 8hdc), 2ch] x3;  1sc into each of next 8hdc, 2ch.   Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 5:  Join yarn in 1st hdc on any 8hdc group.   2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc into next hdc; 1dc into next hdc, (1dc, 2trc into next hdc), 2ch, (2trc, 1dc into next hdc), 1dc into next dc, 1hdc into next 2hdc;  1hdc into 2ch sp;
[1hdc into each of next 8sc;  1hdc into next 2ch sp; 1hdc into each of next 2hdc;  1dc into next hdc, (1dc, 2trc into next hdc), 2ch, (2trc, 1dc into next hdc), 1dc into next dc, 1hdc into next 2hdc;  1hdc into 2ch sp] x3;  1hdc into each of next 8sc;  1hdc into next 2ch sp.   Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 6:  Join yarn in any 2ch (corner).   3ch (counts as 1dc), (1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same 2ch sp as join);  1dc into each of next 22sts;  [(2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next 2ch corner),  1dc into each of next 22sts] x3.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Crochet Border Rounds 1 and 2 around Square.

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A huge thank you once again to, Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE for the time and effort put into testing the St Michael's on Sea Square.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Seaside Winter Blanket CAL: Square 8 St Michael's-on-Sea

Hello Seaside CAL-ers!   Welcome to Part 8 of our Seaside Winter Blanket Journey!

Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

This week we will be making the "St Michael's-on-Sea" Square - the 8th CAL Square and the 7th small square, measuring 19cm x 19cm including the two border rounds.     We will be crocheting 3 more small squares and 1 more large square before moving on to the border and edging of the blanket.

(Please remember that the two Bonus Squares, "Amanzimtoti"and "Southbroom" are not included in my original layout and have therefore not been included in the count)
 
The large waves and super swells of St Michael's-on-Sea make this quiet little South Coast spot a surfer's paradise.   The main swimming beach is at the mouth of the Umhlangeni River.   This beach is protected by shark nets, and is patrolled by lifeguards during school holidays.   The beautiful reefs in these warm Indian Ocean waters are ideal for snorkeling and scuba diving.

ST MICHAEL'S-ON-SEA SQUARE PATTERN:

Make 1 x St Michael's-on-Sea Square for the Baby Blanket Make 2 x St Michael's-on-Sea Squares for the Lapghan.

Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:
 
INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW  and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR

If you are new to the CAL, please take a moment to read the above posts, if you have not already done so in order to prepare yourself for our Crochet-a-long journey.

PATTERN TERMS:  US

Foundation:  4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.

Round 1:   3ch (counts as 1dc), 11dc into ring (12dc).  Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 2:  Join yarn in any dc.   [4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 1dc into same place as join)];  ((1dc, 1ch, 1dc into next dc) x11 (12 x 1dc, 1ch, 1dc).  Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 3:  Join yarn in any 1ch sp.  [3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same sp as join)];  (3dc into next 1ch sp) x11 (12 x 3dc groups).   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 4:  Each stitch grouping is worked over a 3dc group.  (Join yarn in 1st dc on any 3dc group.  3ch, 3dc tog into 2nd dc, 3ch, sl st into 3rd dc);  (sl st into 1st dc on next 3dc group, 3ch, 3dc tog into 2nd dc,  3ch, sl st into 3rd dc) x11   Sl st into same dc as start to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 5:  Join yarn in top of any 3dc tog;  [3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 1ch, 3dc into same place as join, 1ch];  (3dc, 1ch, 3dc into top of next 3dc tog, 1ch) x 11.  (6 x 3dc, 1ch, 3dc Shells).  Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 6:  Join yarn in any 1ch sp.  4ch (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  (1sc into next 1ch sp, 3ch) x23 (24 x 3ch loops).   Sl st into 1st of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch loop.   [4ch (counts as 1trc), 2trc, 3ch, 3trc into same 3ch loop];  3dc in next 3ch loop;  3hdc in next 3ch loop;  3sc in next 3ch loop;  3hdc in next 3ch loop;  3dc in next 3ch loop;  [(3trc, 3ch, 3trc in next 3ch loop);  3dc in next 3ch loop;  3hdc in next 3ch loop;  3sc in next 3ch loop;  3hdc in next 3ch loop;  3dc in next 3ch loop] x3.   Sl st into 4th of start ch to close   Break off yarn.

Round 8:  Join yarn in any corner 3ch;  [3ch (counts as 1dc);  1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same 3ch sp as join];  1dc into each of next 21sts;  [(2dc, 2ch, 2dc into next 3ch sp);  1dc into each of next 21sts] x3;  sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Crochet Border Rounds 1 and 2 around Square. 

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A huge thank you once again to, Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE for the time and effort put into testing the St Michael's on Sea Square.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Seaside Winter Blanket CAL: Square 7 Shelly Beach

Hello and welcome to those of you who have been with me from the start of this journey, as well as to all our new CAL-ers!    I cannot believe we are already 7 weeks into our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL!  Time really does fly when you are having (so much) fun!!  

Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

This week we will be making the "Shelly Beach" Square - the 7th CAL Square and the 6th small square, measuring 19cm x 19cm including the two border rounds. 

Please remember that Bonus Squares are not included in my original layout and have therefore not been included in the count. 

Shelly Beach is a small coastal town on the Hibiscus Coast of Kwa Zulu Natal.  The Hibiscus Coast is the Southernmost strip of almost "endless summer" coast,  stretching from Hibberdene to Port Edward.  So named for the abundance of Hibiscus species growing along this belt, it is also often referred to as South Africa's "Golf Coast".   There are no fewer than 7 golf courses dotted along this stretch of coast, including two of the country's top courses!   Shelly Beach is the perfect playground for adventure seekers and holidaymakers alike, with a popular scuba diving reef around 1500m into the ocean, and much further into the ocean the Protea Banks, which is a world renowned scuba diving destination for sharks and big game fish.  Other activities include rock and surf fishing, ski-boating, as well as canoeing and boating in the estuaries. 

SHELLY BEACH SQUARE PATTERN:

Make 1 x Shelly Beach Square for the Baby Blanket
Make 2 x Shelly Beach Squares for the Lapghan

Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:

INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW  and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR

If you are new to the CAL, please take a moment to read the above posts, if you have not already done so in order to prepare yourself for our Crochet-a-long journey.

PATTERN TERMS:  US

SPECIAL STITCHES:

4 Triple Crochet Cluster:  (4trc cl) =  yoh x2, insert hook in 2ch, pull a loop through, (yoh, draw through two loops) x2;  do not complete the stitch, leaving the last loop of the trc on your hook (2 loops on hook);  working in the same 2ch, make 3x more trc in the same way, leaving the last loop of each trc on your hook;  yoh and pull loop through 5 remaining loops on the hook all at once. 
Note:   your start (first) cluster (4trc stcl) is worked as follows:  3ch (counts as first part trc);  yoh x2, insert hook in 2ch, pull a loop through, (yoh, draw through two loops) x2;  do not complete the stitch, leaving the last loop of the trc on your hook (2 loops on hook);  working in the same 2ch, make 2x more trc in the same way, leaving the last loop of each trc on your hook;  yoh and pull loop through 4 remaining loops on the hook all at once. 

Double Crochet Popcorn Stitch:  (dcPs) = 5dc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back on the first dc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through (if you need a bit of help with the "popcorns" you can find the tutorial HERE)
Note:  your start (first) popcorn stitch is worked as follows:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back in the 3rd ch, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through

Triple Crochet Popcorn Stitch:  (trcPs) = 5trc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back on the first trc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through
Note:  your start (first) popcorn stitch is worked as follows:   4ch (counts as 1trc), 4trc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back on the 4th ch, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through

Foundation:  4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.

Round 1:   2ch, 1dc  (counts as 2dctog),  2ch;  (2dctog into ring, 2ch) x5 (6 x 2dctog, 2ch).  Sl st into start 2dctog to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 2:  Join yarn in any 2ch sp.   [2ch, 1dc (counts as 2dctog), 2ch;  2dctog in same 2ch sp as join, 2ch];  [2dctog, 2ch, 2dc tog into next 2ch sp, 2ch) x5.   Sl st into top of first 2dctog to close (12 x 2dctog, 2ch).   Break off yarn.

Round 3:  Join yarn in any 2ch sp.   4trc stcl, 4ch;  (4trc cl in next 2ch sp, 4ch) x11.   Sl st into top of start cluster to close (12 x 4trc cl).   Break off yarn.

Round 4:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp.   3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same sp as join;  6dc into next 4ch sp;  (2dctog into next 4ch sp, 3ch) x2;  2dc tog into same 4ch sp (corner fan);  
[(6dc into next 4ch sp) x2;  (2dc tog into next 4ch sp, 3ch) x 2;  2dc tog into same 4ch sp (corner fan)] x3.  Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 5:  Join yarn in 1st 3ch sp on any corner fan.  1dcPs into same 3ch as join, 4ch, 1dcPs into next 3ch sp, 1ch; 1Bpdc around each of next 12dc;  [(1dcPs into next 3ch sp, 4ch, 1dcPs into next 3ch sp, 1ch);  1Bpdc around each of next 12dc] x3.   Sl st into top of start dcPs to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 6:  Join yarn in any 4ch corner.  (1trcPs into same 4ch sp, 6ch, 1trcPs into same 4ch sp, 1ch);  (2dc into next dc; 1dc into next dc; 1hdc into next dc; 1sc into each of next 6dc;  1hdc into next dc; 1dc into next dc; 2dc into next dc);  
[(1trcPs, 6ch, 1trcPs into next 4ch sp, 1ch);  (2dc into next dc; 1dc into next dc; 1hdc into next dc; 1sc into each of next 6dc;  1hdc into next dc; 1dc into next dc; 2dc into next dc)] x3.  

Round 7:  Join yarn in any 6ch corner sp,  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 8hdc into same sp,  1hdc into sp between Ps and next stitch; 1hdc into each of next 14sts;  1hdc into sp between next stitch and Ps;  [9hdc into 6ch corner sp,  1hdc into sp between Ps and next stitch; 1hdc into each of next 14sts;  1hdc into sp between next stitch and Ps] x3.  Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.  Do not break off yarn.  

Crochet Border Round 1, starting the Round in the 5th hdc of any 9hdc corner;
Crochet Border Round 2


PS:  Every care has been taken to make sure the squares are all the same size, ....... but yarn thicknesses often vary (even with the same brand).  If you find this happening, work out the difference between this and the correct size squares. Measure your stitch heights (sc, hdc and dc), and then compensate by adding a row of either sc, hdc or dc after the last pattern row to correct this. For example if your squares are short by 1cm, divide that by two = 0.5cm short on each side. My hdc's measure 0.5cm and so I would compensate by adding a round of hdc, before doing my border rounds!   The same rule would apply if your squares are too large.   Compensate by using a shorter stitch in your last round for example if your last round is supposed to be dc, crochet the round in hdc instead.

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A very special thank you to my wonderful Testers, Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE  and Nina Mayer (aka HAEKELNINA) for the time and effort put into testing the Port Shepstone Square.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Seaside Winter Blanket: Square 6 Port Shepstone

Hello and welcome to Part 6 of our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL!  Another week has flown by and our blankets have grown by another square (or two!)

Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

This week we will be making the "Port Shepstone" Square.   

Port Shepstone is situated on the mouth of the largest river on the south coast of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, the Mzimkulu River. 120 kilometres south of Durban, it is the administrative, educational and commercial centre for southern Natal.

"Port Shepstone" is the first large square measuring 38cm x 38cm (including the two border rows).

Although there are no really complicated stitches and/or techniques in this pattern the later rounds contain many different stitch patterns and groupings that require a fair amount of concentration. I have tried to separate the different stitch patterns and grouping with separate brackets: { = main bracket; [ = secondary bracket; ( = tertiary bracket

PORT SHEPSTONE SQUARE PATTERN:

Make 1 x Port Shepstone Square for the Baby Blanket

Make 2 x Port Shepstone Squares for the Lapghan

Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:

INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW  and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR

Please take a moment to read the above posts, if you have not already done so in order to prepare yourself for our Crochet-a-long journey.

PATTERN TERMS:  US

SPECIAL STITCHES:

5 stitch cluster:   5st cl = 1dc, 3trc, 1dc tog crochet over 5 spaces starting after the last stitch on a "fan" over the "v" and ending before the first stitch on the next "fan" as follows:
 yoh, insert hook in same 3ch sp as previous st, yoh pull loop through 2 loops (2 loops on hook);
2yoh, insert hook in sp between fan and "v", yoh pull loop through 2 loops x 2 (3 loops on hook);
2yoh, insert hook in 2ch sp of "v", yoh pull loop through 2 loops x 2 (4 loops on hook);
2yoh, insert hook in sp between "v" and fan, yoh pull loop through 2 loops x 2 (5 loops on hook);
yoh, insert hook in 1st 3ch of next fan;   yoh pull loop through 2 loops,  yoh pull loop through 6 loops on hook.

Foundation:  4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.

Round 1:   2ch, 1dc  (counts as 2dc tog),  2ch;  (2dc tog into ring, 2ch) x7 (8 x 2dc tog, 2ch).  Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 2:  Join yarn in any 2ch sp.   5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), 1dc into same 2ch sp as join, 2ch;  (1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp, 2ch) x7.   Sl st into top 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 3:  Join yarn in any 2ch sp.   5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), 1dc into same 2ch sp as join;  [1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp ("v" stitch formed)] x15 (16 x "v" stitches).   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 4:  Join yarn in any 2ch sp.  5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), 1dc into same 2ch sp as join;  1dc, 4ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp;  [(1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp);  (1dc, 4ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp)] x7.  Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.  

Round 5:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp.   [4ch (counts as 1trc), 2trc, 3ch, 3trc into same 4ch sp];  [1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp ("v" formed)]; [(3trc, 3ch, 3trc into next 4ch sp),  (1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp)] x 7.   Sl st into 4th of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 6:  Join yarn in 2ch of any "v".  5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), 1dc in same 2ch sp ("v" formed);   [(2trc tog, 3ch) x 3, 2trc tog into 3ch sp ("fan" formed];   {(1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp) ("v" formed);   [(2trc tog, 3ch) x3, 2trc tog into next 3ch sp ("fan" formed)]} x7 (8 fans;  8 v's).  sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 7:  Join yarn in 1st 3ch of any "fan".   3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same 3ch as join;  (5dc into next 3ch) x2, 5st cl:  [(5dc into 3ch sp of "fan") x3;  5st cl] x7.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 8:  Join yarn in 2nd dc after any 5st cl.   1ch (does not count as a stitch), 1sc in same dc, 1sc in each of next 12dc (13sc), 3ch;  [1sc into 2nd dc after next 5st cl;  1sc into each of next 12dc (13sc), 3ch) x 7.  Sl st into start sc to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 9:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp.   [3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same sp as join];  (skip 2sc; 1sc into each of next 11sc;  3sc into next 3ch sp;  1sc into each of next 11sc;  skip 2sc);
[(3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 3ch sp);  (skip 2sc; 1sc into each of next 11sc;  3sc into next 3ch sp;  1sc into each of next 11sc;  skip 2sc)] x 3.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 10:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  [3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 1trc, 3dc into same sp as join, 2ch (corner)] (skip 3dc, 1dc into each of next 2sc),  (1hdc into each of next 2sc, 1ch), (skip 1sc, 1sc into each of next 15sc, 1ch), (skip 1sc, 1hdc into each of next 2sc), (1dc into each of next 2dc; 2ch, skip 3dc);
[(3dc, 1trc, 3dc into same sp as join, 2ch), (skip 3dc, 1dc into each of next 2sc),  (1hdc into each of next 2sc, 1ch), (skip 1sc, 1sc into each of next 15sc, 1ch), (skip 1sc,  1hdc into each of next 2sc), (1dc into each of next 2dc; 2ch)] x3.  Skip 3dc, sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off  yarn.

Round 11:  Join yarn in top of trc on any corner. {5ch (counts as 1trc, 1ch) [1trc, 3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc into same trc as join;  skip 3dc (corner fan)];  [1trc, 3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc, 3ch, 1trc into 2ch sp, skip next 4sts (right fan)];   [1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc into 1ch sp (hdc "v"); 15ch, skip 15sc;  (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc into 1ch sp, skip next 4sts) (hdc "v");  (1trc, 3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc, 3ch, 1trc into 2ch sp, skip 3dc) (left fan);
{[1trc, 1ch, 1trc, 3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc into trc, skip 3dc (corner fan)];  [1trc, 3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc, 3ch, 1trc into 2ch sp, skip next 4sts (right fan)];  [1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc into 1ch sp (hdc "v"); 15ch, skip 15sc;  [1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc into 1ch sp, skip next 4sts (hdc "v");  [1trc, 3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc, 3ch, 1trc into 2ch sp, skip 3dc (left fan)}x3.   Sl st into 4th of start ch to close.

Round 12:  Join yarn in 3ch of any corner fan. 4ch, (counts as 1trc), 6trc into same 3ch sp as join;  1dc in sp between corner fan and right fan;  (5dc into 3ch sp of right fan) x2;  1dc between right fan and hdc "v";  1dc into 2ch of hdc "v";
hold 15ch to the front of your work, skip 1sc; (work 1dc into sc behind ch;  hold ch to the back of your work, work 1dc into sc in front of chain.) x6 (12dc);  (work 1dc into sc behind ch, skip next sc);
1dc into 2ch of hdc "v";  1dc between hdc "v" and left fan;   (5dc into 3ch sp of left fan) x2;  1dc in sp between left fan and corner fan;

[7trc into same 3ch of corner fan;  1dc in sp between corner fan and right fan;  (5dc into 3ch sp of right fan) x2;  1dc between right fan and hdc "v";  1dc into 2ch of hdc "v";
hold 15ch to the front of your work, skip 1sc; (work 1dc into sc behind ch;  hold ch to the back of your work, work 1dc into sc in front of chain.) x6 (12dc);  (work 1dc into sc behind ch, skip next sc);
1dc into 2ch of hdc "v";  1dc between hdc "v" and left fan;   (5dc into 3ch sp of left fan) x2;  1dc in sp between left fan and corner fan] x3.  Sl st into 4th of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.  

For more detailed photos of the "threaded chain" see "UMTENTWENI"



 
Round 13:  Join yarn in 4th trc of any corner;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same place as join;  1dc into each of next 16 sts;  15ch, skip next 13dc;  1dc into each of next 16 sts;
[3dc into next trc (4th trc on corner),  1dc into each of next 16sts, 15ch, skip next 13dc, 1dc into each of next 16sts] x3.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 14:  Join yarn in 1st of corner 3dc;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into next dc (5dc corner); 1dc into next dc;  1Bpdc around each of next 16dc;
hold 15ch to the front of your work, work 1dc into dc behind ch;  hold ch to the back of your work, work 1dc into dc in front of chain.) x6 (12dc);  work 1dc into dc behind ch; 1Bpdc around each of next 16dc;
[1dc into next dc, 5dc into next dc (5dc corner); 1dc into next dc;  1Bpdc around each of next 16dc;
hold 15ch to the front of your work, work 1dc into dc behind ch;  hold ch to the back of your work, work 1dc into dc in front of chain.) x6 (12dc);  work 1dc into dc behind ch; 1Bpdc around each of next 16dc] x3.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 15:  Join yarn in sp bet 1st & 2nd dc on any 5dc corner.   [2ch, 1dc into same sp as join (counts as 2dc tog), 2ch;  2dc tog into next sp between dc posts, 3ch;  2dc tog into next sp between dc posts, 2ch;  2dc tog into next sp between dc posts];  1Fpdc around next dc;  1dc into back loop only of next 16dc;  (1trc into next dc:  1Fptrc around next dc) x6 (12 sts), 1trc into next dc;  1dc into back loop only of next 16dc;  1Fpdc around next dc
[(2dc tog in sp bet 1st & 2nd dc on next 5dc corner, 2ch;  2dc tog into next sp between dc posts, 3ch;  2dc tog into next sp between dc posts, 2ch;  2dc tog into next sp between dc posts);  1Fpdc around next dc;  1dc into back loop only of next 16dc; (1trc into next dc:  1Fptrc around next dc) x6 (12 sts), 1trc into next dc;  1dc into back loop only of next 16dc;  1Fpdc around next dc] x3.   Sl st into top of 2dc tog to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 16:  Join yarn in any corner 3ch.  [2ch, 1dc (counts as 2dc tog), (2ch, 2dc tog into same 3ch sp as join) x2];  2ch, 2dc tog into next 2ch sp, 1Fpdc around next dc;  1dc into each of next 17sts;  (1Fptrc around next Fptrc;  1trc into next trc) x5;  1Fptrc around next trc;  1dc into each of next 17sts;  1Fpdc around next dc;  2dc tog into next 2ch sp;  2ch
[( 2dc tog, 2ch into next 3ch sp) x3;  2dc tog into next 2ch sp, 1Fpdc around next dc;  1dc into each of next 17sts;  (1Fptrc around next Fptrc;  1trc into next trc) x5;  1Fptrc around next trc;  1dc into each of next 17sts;  Fpdc around next dc;  2dc tog into next 2ch sp] x3.   Sl st into top of 2dc tog to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 17:  Join yarn in 2nd (middle) 2dc tog on any corner.  [3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same place as join];  (2dc into next 2ch sp) X2;  1Fpdc around Fpdc;  (1Bpdc around each of next 45sts);   1Fpdc around next Fpdc;  (2dc into next 2ch sp) x2;
[5dc in 2nd (middle) 2dc tog on next corner;  (2dc into next 2ch sp) X2;  1Fpdc around Fpdc;  (1Bpdc around each of next 45sts);   1Fpdc around next Fpdc;  (2dc into next 2ch sp) x2] x3.   Sl st into 2dc tog to close.  Break off yarn.

Crochet BORDER ROWS 1 AND 2 around square.

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A special thank you once again to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE  and Nina Mayer (aka HAEKELNINA for the time and effort put into testing the Port Shepstone Square.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group