Cosmos Fields Shawl: Print Friendly Pattern

Pattern Terms:   US

Yarn:   100% 8ply (DK / light worsted) Acrylic Yarn

Hook:   5.50mm

Foundation:   6ch

Row 1:   Into the 6th chain from your hook (2dc, 3ch, 2dc - this forms the point of your shawl);  1ch, 1dc (turn your work so that you are now working along the "wrong side")

Row 2:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;  1dc between each dc on previous row;  (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp - point formed);  1dc between each dc on previous row;   2dc, 1ch, 1dc into 1ch sp at end of row (turn your work so that you are now working along the "right side")

Row 3:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;   1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into point;  1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 1ch,  1dc into 1ch sp at end of row
(turn your work)

Rows 4 - 55:  Repeat Row 3

(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the red text for the next 52 Rows)


Border:

Row 56:  3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp;  [3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] repeat this with the last hdc being made into the 3ch space of the point (corner); 3ch; 1hdc into same 3ch space; [3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] repeat this until there are 3dc posts left at the end of the row;   2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row (turn your work) 

Row 57:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;  [3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this until you reach the point (corner) into the 3ch space work 3dc, 3ch, 3dc;  [3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this to the last 3ch space;  2dc; 1ch, 1dc into the chain space at the end of the row, (turn your work)

Row 58:   3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp;   3ch, skip 2dc;  (1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch);    repeat this with the last 3ch repeat being made just before the point (corner); 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc into the 3ch space of the point (corner);  (3ch; 1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch) repeat this to the space before the the last 3dc group;  1hdc into the space after the last 3dc group;   3ch;  (2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row).

Row 59:  Repeat Row 57


Row 60:  Repeat Row 58


Row 61:  Repeat Row 57

Row 62:  Into the 1ch space work at the start of the row work 3dc;  (3ch, 1sc into next sp;  3ch, 2dc into next sp) repeat this with your last 2dc being into the corner 3ch;  3ch, and crochet another 2dc into the corner;

(3ch, 1sc into next sp,  3ch, 2dc into next sp) repeat to last sp;   (3ch, 2dc into 1ch space at end of row)

(We are now going to do the base edging - the longest side of the triangle which is formed as you do your rows)

Into same 1ch space work 3hdc; 

sl st into side of first dc post, (2ch, 1hdc, sl st into side of next dc post) repeat to last dc post, 3hdc, sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to end.

NOTE:     Error corrected Row 1 (please check this if you have already printed this page)

Happy Days CAL (5): POPCORN FLOWER AND LEAVES

Welcome to Part 5 of our Happy Days Blanket Crochet Along! 

It is not too late to join in the fun!     The patterns will remain on my blog - so you can crochet along at your own pace.      

Here are the links so far:

PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square) (where you will find all the necessary info about this project);
 
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square);

Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square); and

Part 4 (Solid Granny Square)

So far we have made:
4 x Hakuna Matata Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x  Sunny Flower Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
4 x  Tic-Tac-Toe Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x Solid Granny Squares (14cm x 14cm each)

Last week we joined the Sunny Flower Squares and the Solid Granny Squares to make 5 bigger 28cm x 28cm Squares: 
 

 

The CAL blankets are looking quite fabulous so far:

This weeks square is a Popcorn Flower & Leaves (a slight variation on a pattern I used for the Baby Groovyghan (if you need a bit of help with the "popcorns" you can find the tutorial HERE)

We will be making 8 of these squares

 

POPCORN FLOWER AND LEAVES SQUARE

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% acrylic 
 
HOOK:  5.00mm

SIZE:  14cm x 14cm

PATTERN TERMS:   US

I will include this conversion chart with each pattern to make it easier for those using UK terms

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to join OR make a magic ring;

Row 1:  3 ch (counts as 1 dc):  11 dc into circle (12 dc), sl st into top of 3ch to join, break off yarn

Row 2:  Join yarn in any dc, 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into top of  same dc;  [2dc into top of next dc (2dc group)] x11 = 24dc, sl st into top of 3ch to join, break off yarn

Row 3:  Join yarn in any space between a 2dc 
group;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same space as join, form popcorn, 2ch;  (popcorn stitch into space between next 2dc group, 2ch) x 11;   sl st into top of first popcorn to join, break of yarn

NOTE:   A Popcorn Stitch is formed by crocheting 5dc then removing the hook from the last loop, inserting the hook front to back on the first dc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through 

Row 4:  Join yarn in any 2ch space between popcorns;  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc into same space as join;   3hdc into next 2ch sp;  (1 popcorn stitch, 3ch, 1 popcorn stitch into next 2ch space - corner formed, 1ch);    [3hdc into each of next two 2ch spaces;  (1 popcorn stitch, 3ch, 1 popcorn stitch into next 2ch space, 1ch)] x 3;  sl st into top of 2ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 5:  Join yarn in corner 3ch;  6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch) 3dc into same space;  (3dc into each of next 3 spaces;  3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next space)x3;  3dc into each of next 3 spaces,  2dc into corner space;  sl st into third of 6ch at start to close;   do not break off yarn

Row 6:  sl into 3ch space;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same space as sl st;   (3dc into each of next 4 spaces;  3dc, 3ch, 3dc into corner 3ch) x3;  3dc into each of next 4 spaces;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 7:  Join yarn any corner 3ch;   2ch (counts as 1hdc) 1hdc, 3ch, 2hdc in same space;  1hdc into top of each dc;   into corner 3ch crochet 2hdc, 3ch, 2hdc across all four sides; sl st into top of 2ch at start to close,   break off yarn

The pattern for the next square will be posted on Friday, 19 September 2014.

Please post the photos of your progress on my Zooty Owl Facebook page so that I can share them with my next post!


Have fun!!


(Part 6:    Box Stitch Square can be found HERE)

The Road Trip Scarf: Getting Started

A few crocheters seem to be having a bit of difficulty with the triangle concept for the ROAD TRIP SCARF – so this version is written with more detailed explanations on how to start, getting from row to row, and some useful notes, etc, so that EVERYBODY on the planet can have a Road Trip Scarf!!!

The pattern as written (over 34 rows) is designed to be worked in a 100% acrylic variegated yarn (100g / 300m) in DK (8ply /light worsted weight).   However, the stitch composition is very uncomplicated - making the pattern suitable for both variegated and solid colour yarns!

Various yarn blends also work well with this pattern – 100% merino (wool), acrylic/wool blends and “soft” cottons.

Thinner yarns may be used – just keep repeating the pattern row (Row 3) until you reach the required size.     Always make sure you end on an even number of rows before starting your edging!

Thicker yarns may also be used, although I would not recommend using anything heavier than Aran (10ply / worsted weight), unless you are going to make the scarf substantially bigger.

The scarf is worked seamlessly (in one piece) as a single triangle from the top to the bottom - your first row being the top of the shawl which will lie at the base of your throat, and the last row which will drape over your chest.


Notes:

Right Side / Wrong Side:     We will talk about every odd row as the right side (eg, rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 etc are the right side);    and every even row as the wrong side (eg, rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 etc)

Side Increases are made at the beginning AND end of every row.   The increase of 2dc at the beginning of a row is made into the 1ch space at the end of the previous row.    The increase of 2dc at the end of the row is made into the 4ch loop which is formed at the start of the previous row (you will note that at the beginning of a row I say that the 4ch counts as 1dc, 1ch, so this  is not "seen" as a 4ch loop when working the next row but as a 1ch space and then 1dc at the very end of the row - when writing the pattern I will NOT say to crochet into the 4ch loop at the end of the row - I DO say to crochet into the 1ch space at the end of the row   

The Point (or corner) is formed in your very first row (2dc, 3ch, 2dc).     Throughout the shawl you will work 1dc, 3ch, 1dc into the 3ch space from the previous row.

If your increases are correct you WILL have a perfect triangle.    If the triangle pulls outward - you are increasing too much.   If the triangle pulls inward (like a kite) you are increasing too little.


Stitches:   We are using two basic stitches only for the scarf - chain (ch) and double crochet (dc) (US terms);      UK CROCHETERS will be using a treble and not a double crochet.

Rows 4 - 32:  Repeat Row 3
(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the highlighted area for the next 28 Rows)

ROAD TRIP SCARF PATTERN 

SIZE:  106cm Wide;   48cm long

Foundation:   6ch

Row 1:     Into first chain (the 6th chain from your hook) [crochet 2dc, 3ch, 2dc ( this forms the point of your shawl);  now also crochet 1ch, 1dc into the same place]

(turn your work so that you are now working along the "wrong side")

Row 2:

Working up the right side of the triangle 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch); 2dc into 1ch sp,  1ch;

skip 1dc, 1dc into next dc, 1ch;

1dc, 3ch, 1dc into 3ch sp (point), 

Working down the left side of the triangle 1ch; 1dc into next dc, 

1ch, skip 1dc; 2dc, 1ch, 1dc into space at the end of the row;   

(turn your work so that you are now working along the "right side")

Row 3:  Working up the right hand side of the the triangle 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch);   2dc into 1ch sp, 1ch;   skip 1dc;   (1dc into next dc, 1ch) repeat to point (this means that you crochet one dc into each dc from the previous row with a 1ch sp in between each dc) 

Into the three chain space which forms the point crochet (1dc, 3ch, 1dc);

Working down the left hand side of the triangle (1ch, 1dc into next dc)  

repeat to 2^nd last dc,

skip last dc, 1ch 2dc, ch,1dc into space at the end of the row

Rows 4 - 32:  Repeat Row 3
(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the highlighted area for the next 29 Rows

I am busy working on a detailed tutorial for the EDGING as well - there is, however a video in the original blog post showing how to do the second row. 

I have also posted the video on my Zooty Owl Facebook page - for those whose browsers cannot load the video from the blog post!

The print friendly version of the pattern can be found HERE

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In 2014 when I created my Road Trip scarf I had no idea that it would be so ridiculously popular. I had a lot of requests for a longer scarf along similar lines. I finally got around to it - the result is a long “baktus style” scarf with two possible edgings. Either a frilly edge for a whimsical look or a zig-zag bobble edging. (The original Road Trip Scarf edging and trims would also work well with this design) 




The Day Trip Scarf differs from the Road Trip Scarf in that it increases steadily in length and gradually in width, whereas the Road Trip Scarf increases evenly in length and width. 

The pattern for the Day Trip Scarf is available in my RAVELRY STORE

Happy Days CAL (4): Solid Granny Square

Welcome to Part 4 of our Happy Days Blanket Crochet Along! 

It is not too late to join in the fun!     The patterns will remain on my blog - so you can crochet along at your own pace.      

Here are the links so far:

PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square) (where you will find all the necessary info about this project);
  
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square)

and

Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square) 

So far we have made:
4 Hakuna Matata Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 Sunny Flower Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
4 Tic-Tac-Toe Squares (28cm x 28cm each)

 

Some colourful photos sent to me by a few of the lovely CAL ladies!

 

This weeks square is my version of a solid granny square.

We will be making 10 of these 14cm x 14 cm squares.

SOLID GRANNY SQUARE PATTERN 

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% acrylic 

HOOK:  5.00mm

SIZE:  14cm x 14cm

PATTERN TERMS:   US

I will include this conversion chart with each pattern to make it easier for those using UK terms

Foundation:  4ch,  sl sl into 1st ch to form circle OR make a magic circle

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc) ;  11 dc into circle;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc)

Row 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same place as sl st;   [1dc into each of next 2dc;   (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into next dc] x 3;  1dc into each of next 2dc;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 3:  Join yarn in top of any dc;   3ch (counts as 1dc);   [1dc into each dc;   (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into corner 3ch sp] repeat until you are back at the start;   sl st into 3rd ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Rows 4 and 5:  Repeat the instructions for Row 3.

Row 6:  Join yarn in top of any dc;   1ch (counts as 1sc);   [1sc into each dc;   (2sc, 2ch, 2sc) into corner 3ch sp] repeat until you are back at the start;   sl st into 1ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 7:  Join yarn in top of any sc;   1ch (counts as 1sc);   [1sc into each sc;   (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into corner 2ch sp] repeat until you are back at the start;   sl st into 1ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Join the Solid Granny Squares to the Sunny Flower Squares using the VISIBLE JOIN METHOD to make bigger squares (28cm x 28cm = 2 Solid Granny Squares and 2 Sunny Flower Squares).

*******

I was going to do the Saturday Morning Square this week - but thought it would be fun to rather start joining the smaller squares.

The pattern for the next square will be posted on Friday, 5 September 2014.


Please post the photos of your progress on my Zooty Owl Facebook page so that I can share them with my next post!

Happy crocheting!

(Part 5 of the CAL - Popcorn Flower & Leaves Square can be found HERE)

Bougainvillea Doily Pattern

This is a little adaptation of a DESIGN I did a while back - I was going to scrap the pattern altogether as it just was not working for me - but then inspiration struck.    I changed a few rows, made it a bit smaller and VOILA!! 

Although I used DK cottons for all the doilies the different brands differ quite a bit in thickness - so adjust your hook size to suit your yarn.

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Materials:  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK
Hook Size:  4.00mm
Size:   29cm in Diameter

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Materials:  Strawberries & Cream Cotton DK
Hook Size:  4.50mm
Size:   33cm in Diameter
 

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Materials:  Strawberries & Cream Cotton DK
Hook Size:  4.50mm
Size:   33cm in Diameter

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Materials:  Coffee Cotton DK
Hook Size:  4.00mm
Size:   27cm in Diameter

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Materials:  Coffee Cotton DK
Hook Size:  4.00mm
Size:   27cm in Diameter

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Special thanks to Erica Liebenberg for testing this pattern for me (with absolute lightening speed!!!) - As you can see kitty cat was quite impressed with the yarny goings on!

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Pattern Terms:
My patterns are all written in US terms

I have included this little chart to make it easier for my UK readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.

Foundation:   4ch, sl st into first chain to form a circle OR make a magic ring 

Row 1:  4ch into same place as sl st (counts as 1dc, 1ch);  (1dc; 1ch into circle) x 11, sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (12 x 1dc; 1ch groups)

Row 2:  Join yarn in any 1ch sp;  6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch);  (1dc into next 1ch sp, 3ch) x 11,  sl st into 3rd of 6ch at start to close.

Row 3:  Join yarn in any 3ch space;  2ch, 3dc (4dc cluster) 6ch;  (4dc cluster into next 3ch space, 6ch) x 11;   sl st into top of 1st cluster to close.

Note:  a 4dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving last loops on your hook, repeat this 3 times more (five loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster

Row 4:  Join yarn in any 6ch space; 1ch (counts as 1sc);  [12 dc into next 6ch sp (12dc group);   1sc into next 6ch sp] x5;  12dc into last 6ch space;  sl st into 1 ch at start to close.

Row 5:   Join yarn into top of 2nd dc on any 12dc group;  4ch in same sp as join (counts as 1dc, 1ch);  1dc, 1ch into each of next 9dc (10dc group);  (1dc into 2nd dc on next 12dc group, 1ch;   1dc, 1ch into each of next 9dc) x 5;  sl st into 3rd of 4ch at start to close. 

Row 6:  Join yarn into top of 2nd dc on any 10dc group;  5ch in same sp as join (counts as 1dc, 2ch);  1dc, 2ch into each of next 7dc (8dc group);  (1dc into 2nd dc on next 10dc group, 2ch;  1dc, 2ch into each of next 7dc) x 5;  sl st into 3rd of 5ch at start to close.

Row 7:  Join yarn in first 2 ch sp of 8dc group,  5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch),  1sc, 4ch into each of next six 2ch spaces (6 loop grouping);   (1sc, 4ch into first 2ch sp of 8dc group;  1sc, 4ch into each of next six 2ch spaces)  x 5;   sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.

Row 8:  Join yarn in first 4ch space of any 6 loop grouping;  5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch); 1sc, 4ch into each of next four spaces; 1sc into next 4ch sp,  (5 loop grouping) 6ch; [1sc into first 4ch space on next 6 loop grouping, 4ch;   1sc, 4ch into each of next four 4ch sps; 1sc into next 4ch sp,  (5 loop grouping) 6ch] x 5;  sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.

Row 9:   Join yarn in first 4ch space of any 5 loop grouping;  5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  1sc, 4ch into each of next three 4ch sps;  1sc into next 4ch space (4 loop grouping), 1ch;  [into 6ch space between loop groupings work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3; 2dc cluster, 1ch;  1sc into first 4ch space of next 5 loop grouping,  4ch;  1sc, 4ch into each of next three 4ch sps;  1sc into next 4ch space (4 loop grouping), 1ch] x 5;  into last 6ch space between groupings work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3; 2dc cluster, 1ch;   sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close;

Note:  a 2dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook, repeat this once more (three loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster

Row 10:  Join yarn in first 4ch of any 4 loop grouping;  5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  1sc, 4ch into each of next two 4ch spaces; 1sc into next 4ch space (3 loop grouping), 1ch;  [into 2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster, 2ch;  into 2ch sp between 2nd and 3rd 2dc cluster work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3;  into 2ch sp between 3rd and 4th 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster, 1 ch;   1sc into first 4ch of 4 loop grouping, 4ch;  1sc, 4ch into each of next two 4ch spaces; 1sc into next 4ch sp (3 loop grouping), 1ch] x5;   into 2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster 2ch;  into 2ch sp between 2nd and 3rd 2dc cluster work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3;  into 2ch sp between 3rd and 4th 2dc clusters work 1 2dc cluster, 1 ch, sl st into 1st of 5ch a start to close.

Row 11:  Join yarn in first 4ch of any 3 loop grouping,  5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  1sc into next 4ch space, 4ch;  1sc into next 4ch space (2 loop grouping), 1ch [into 2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work 1 x 2dc cluster, 2ch;  (2dc cluster, 2ch, 2dc cluster, 2ch into next  space between 2dc clusters) x2;  2dc cluster in next space between clusters, 1ch;  (1sc in next 4ch space, 4ch) x2;  1ch] x 5;  into 2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work 1 x 2dc cluster, 2ch;  (2dc cluster, 2ch, 2dc, 2ch cluster into next  space between 2dc clusters) x2;  2dc cluster in next space between clusters; 1ch;  sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close

(I did not have a problem with the Raeesah Cotton Soft but the Strawberries & Cream and the Coffee Cotton started to "pucker" a bit at this point - a puff of steam after each completed row sorted this out nicely though!)


Row 12:  Join yarn in 1ch sp before close sl st on Row 11;  3ch (counts as 1dc) in same 1ch sp as join;   5dc into  next two 4ch spaces;   1dc into next 1ch sp;   3hdc into 1st sp between clusters;  3sc into each of next 3 spaces between clusters;  3hdc into next space between clusters;   (1dc in next1ch sp;   5dc into  next 2 4ch spaces;   1dc into next 1ch sp;   3hdc into 1st sp between clusters;  3sc into each of next 3 spaces between clusters;  3hdc into next space between clusters) repeat to end;  sl st into 3rd of 3ch at start to close 

Row 13:  Join yarn in same place as close sl st:   3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same place as join;   1dc into each of next 10dc;  2dc into next dc;  skip 3hdc;  2hdc into each of next 3sc;  skip 3sc;  2hdc into each of next 3sc, skip 3hdc;   (2dc into next dc;  1dc into each of next 10dc;  2dc into next dc;  skip 3hdc;   2hdc into each of next 3sc;  skip 3sc;  2hdc into each of next 3sc, skip 3hdc)

Row 14 (edging):   join yarn with a sl st in any stitch,  1ch, sl st in next stitch, repeat to end