Seaside Winter Blanket: Scottburgh Square 2

Hello and welcome to Part 2 of our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL!

How wonderful to have so many crochet along friends from previous CAL's joining in.   A warm welcome to you and to those of you who are joining a Zooty Owl CAL for the first time!

It's is not too late to join in!   Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

One of our lovely CAL friends sent me the following message:   "I googled crochet blanket photos for the perfect colours for my blanket.    Your point on colour placement is true.  Umzumbe got frogged about four times before I was happy.   It makes me irritated that all that work is for nothing.  Is there something you can teach me to avoid this?".

COLOUR PLACEMENT is very important and can make or break the visual effect you are trying to achieve.  I have not yet found a foolproof method to select which colour I will use for each round.     There is no right and wrong placement - what is visually pleasing to one may not be pleasing to another.   My colour placement is also sometimes not spot on first time around.   Feeling that I have wasted my time also drives me to distraction.    TIP:  when you purchase your yarn also buy a ball of each colour (or as close as possible) from a budget range.   The budget yarns are usually quite robust and make for great picnic / travel / charity blankets or yarn tote bags.   First try the placement you want with the budget yarn.    Instead of frogging the square if you are not entirely happy with the placement put it aside.   After a few projects you will have enough of these squares to make something worthwhile!

A special thank you to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES & MORE  for skillfully and efficiently testing the Scottburgh Square!

 
SCOTTBURGH SQUARE PATTERN:

The Scottburgh Square will curl because we have used the overlay technique, and will have to be BLOCKED.  (This YouTube video is easy to follow and explains the blocking technique rather well.)   Google "blocking crochet" and a number of how-to's will pop up.    I recently purchased a wooden blocking board to block my work, but as you will see in the video there are items around the house that can be used for blocking.

Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts and other useful CAL information are contained in these two posts: INTRODUCTION and YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW

Make 1 x Scottburgh Square for the Baby Blanket
Make 2 x Scottburgh Square for the Lapghan

PATTERN TERMS:   US

SPECIAL STITCHES:

2hdc tog = yoh 1, insert hook through stitch, pull through a loop but do not complete the stitch;  yoh 1, insert hook through stitch, pull through a loop and complete both stitches.

Crossover trc = Bring your working yarn to the front of your work as we will be working over stitches made in previous rounds, yoh2, insert hook into front loop of corresponding 3rd hdc in round 1, pull loop through and complete stitch,   yoh2, insert hook into front loop of corresponding 1st hdc in round 1, pull loop through and complete stitch.    If you have never done this before it may take a couple of tries before you get it right - it is very tricky on the fingers.   I find it easier if I fold the motif along the stitches I am working into.

(Note:  If you can't manage the Crossover trc stitch don't worry - work 1 trc into corresponding 1st hdc in round 1; and 1 trc into corresponding 3rd hdc in round 1 - the crossover is merely an added design feature and does not affect further rounds)

BPdc = BACK POST DOUBLE CROCHET

Foundation:   3ch, sl st into 1st ch to close OR make a magic circle

Round 1: 2ch, 11hdc into circle, sl st into top of start 2ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 2:  Working in back loops only join yarn in any hdc;  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc into each of next 2hdc, 9ch (1hdc into each of next 3hdc, 9ch) x3;   sl st into top of start 2ch to close.  Break of yarn.

Round 3:  Using the same colour as in Round 2, join yarn in any 9ch sp; [2ch (counts as 1hdc),  (2hdc, 1ch, 5dc, 2ch, 5dc, 1ch, 3hdc) into same 9ch sp;  [skip 1hdc, sl st into next hdc (3hdc, 1ch, 5dc, 2ch, 5dc, 1ch, 3hdc) into next 9ch sp] x3;  sl st into start sl st to close (four "petals");   break off yarn.

Round 4:  Using the same colour as in Round 1, join yarn in any 2ch sp (top of petal);  1ch, 1hdc (counts as 2hdc tog), 3ch, 2hdc tog in same sp;  5ch, 3hdc into 1ch sp;  1ch,  Crossover trc into front loop of  corresponding 3rd and 1st hdc in Round 1;  [1ch, 3hdc into next 1ch sp;  5ch,  (2hdc tog, 3ch, 2hdc tog into next 2ch), 5ch, 3hdc into next 1ch sp, 1ch, Crossover trc into front loop of corresponding 3rd and 1st hdc in Round 1] x3;  1ch, 3hdc into 1ch sp;  5ch, sl st into start 2hdc tog to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 5:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp (top of petal); [3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3trc, 3dc into same 3ch sp (corner grouping)]; {3ch, 1trc into each of next 2hdc, 1dtrc into each of next 2hdc;  1trc into each of next 2hdc;   3ch;  [3dc, 3trc, 3dc into next 3ch sp] (corner grouping)} x3;  3ch, 1trc into each of next 2hdc, 1dtrc into each of next 2hdc, 1trc into each of next 2dc, 3ch, sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 6:  Join yarn in 2nd trc of any corner grouping;  6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch), 1dc into same place as join;  1dc into each of next 4sts; [3dc into 3ch sp;  BPdc around each of next 6sts;  3dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 4sts, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc into next st);  1dc into each of next 4sts] x3;  3dc into 3ch sp;  BPdc around each of next 6sts;  3dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 4sts;  sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

*Note: Round 6 of the pattern does require Bpdc around the 6 long stitches in the middle, and the photo tutorial does not show these. The Bpdc adds interest to the square but does not affect the square structurally as you can see from my tutorial square. (I really must apologize - I had a splitting migraine for the past few days and suffered a bit of "brain fog" because  of it.   I actually made 12 new No 2 squares with out the Bpdc in this round, whereas the "original" No 2 square does show the Bpdc. Since the Bpdc in this Round is just a feature I am not going to remake my squares.- to me they are equally as pretty with or without this added design feature)

 

 

 

Round 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same sp;  1dc into each of next 22dc;  [(2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next 3ch sp);  1dc into each of next 22dc] x3

BORDER ROUNDS:
Note:   Work the following two rounds on each completed square in your background / border colour.   Final stitch counts may differ from pattern to pattern, so adjustments must be allowed for when joining.

Border Round 1:   Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp,  3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same sp,  1BPdc around each stitch to next 3ch corner;  (5dc into corner sp,  1BPdc around each stitch to next 3ch corner) x3,  sl st into 3rd of start chain to close.   Do not break off yarn.

Border Round 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next dc), 1dc into each st to corner;  [1dc into next 2dc, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next dc), 1dc into each st to corner] x3;  sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Block squares and join according to chosen layout.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group