Butterfly

PATTERN TERMS:  US

Yarn:  100% DK Cotton

Hook:  4.00mm

Foundation:    3ch, sl st into 1st ch to make a ring OR make a magic ring;

Row 1:   3ch (counts as 1dc);   11dc into ring (12 dc),   sl st into top of start 3ch to close.

Row 2:   sl st into first space between dc;   [1ch, 1sc into same space as join;  8ch,   skip 1 space between dc;  2sc into next space (top left wing)];   [5ch,   skip 1 space between dc;   1sc into next space,  1ch, sl st into same space (bottom left wing)];   [3ch, 4hdc into 3rd ch from hook;   skip 1 space,   sl st into next space,   1ch, 1sc into same space (lower body)];    [5ch,   skip 1 space,   2sc into next space (bottom right wing)];  [8ch,   skip 1 space,   1sc into next space, 1ch, sl st into same space (top right wing)];   [8ch, 3sc into 2nd ch from hook;  1sl st into each of next 6ch, sl st into next space between dc (right "feeler")];  [8ch, 3sc into 2nd ch from hook;  1sl st into each of next 6ch,   sl st into next sp (left "feeler)].   Break off yarn.

Left Wings:    With right side facing join yarn with a sl st in 1st sc directly to the left of the "feelers";  [(1sc, 1hdc, 3dc, 5trc, 3dc, 1hdc, 1sc) into 8ch space;   sl st between next 2sc (top left wing);   [(1sc; 1hdc; 5dc, 1hdc, 1sc) into 5ch space;  sl st into top of sc to close (bottom left wing)].   Break off yarn.

Right Wings:  With right side facing join yarn with a sl st in sc directly to the right of the lower body;  [(1sc; 1hdc; 5dc, 1hdc, 1sc) into 5ch space,  sl st between next 2sc (bottom right wing)];  [(1sc, 1hdc, 3dc, 5trc, 3dc, 1hdc, 1sc) into 8ch space.   sl st into next sc to close (top right wing)].    Break off yarn. 

A great big "THANK YOU" to my fabulous friend Lori for testing this pattern for me!!

Granny Hearts

Granny Hearts!!!   

Just in time for Valentine's Day!

GRANNY HEART PATTERN

PATTERN TERMS:   US

MATERIALS:    100% DK COTTON (I used Coffee Cotton)

HOOK SIZE:  4.00mm

SKILL LEVEL:  Easy


Foundation:  3ch, sl st to make a circle OR  make a magic ring

Row 1:   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into circle;  (3ch; 3dc into circle) x3;   3ch, sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 2:   Join yarn in any 3ch space.     6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch), 3dc into same space (first corner);  (3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 3ch space) x3;   2dc into same space as start join;   sl st into 3rd of 6ch to close.

Row 3:   Sl st into first corner space;  (2trc, 3ch, 3trc, 3ch, 2trc) into next space between corners;  sl st into next corner space;   ((2trc, 3ch, 3trc, 3ch, 2trc) into next space between corners;   sl st into next corner space to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 4:  Join yarn in unworked corner (the apex or point of the heart),   3ch (counts as 1dc), (2dc, 3ch, 3dc) into same corner;  (1ch, 3dc into next space) x2;   2ch, 3dc into next space;   2ch, (3dc, 3ch, 3trc) into next 3ch space;   sl st to right  of sl st in Row 3;   sl st to left of sl st in Row 3;   (3trc, 3ch, 3dc) into next 3ch space;   2ch, 3dc into next space, 2ch;  (3dc into next space, 1ch) x2,  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 5:   Join yarn with a sl st to left of 2nd sl in Row 4;   2ch,  1dc into same space;   (skip 2dc, sl st into next space between dc;  2ch, 1dc into same space;   skip 1dc, sl st into next space;   2ch, 1dc into same space) all around ending with a sl st to the right of 1st sl st in Row 4

 ******************************************************

A special thank you to Jackie Ramsden of BLANKIES BY JACKIE for testing this pattern:

and to John Kelly of HE IS HOOKED and Michelle Westlund of CROCHET BETWEEN WORLDS  for proof reading the pattern!

Granny Star Pattern: Print Friendly Version

GRANNY STAR PATTERN

My patterns are all written in US TERMS

The Photo Tutorial for this Pattern can be found HERE


 


YARN:  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK
(This is a matter of choice - as gauge does not really matter here, you could use anything from cotton floss to t-shirt yarn, depending on how you are going to use your stars)

HOOK SIZE:  4.00mm
(here again use whatever hook you are comfortable with for your choice of yarn)

Foundation:   5ch, sl st into 1st chain to form a circle.

Row 1:  3ch into same place as sl st (counts as 1dc), 2dc into the circle, 3ch;   (3dc into the circle, 3ch) x4;  sl st into the top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 2:   Join yarn in any 3ch sp;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same place as join;   (3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 3ch sp) x4;  sl st into the top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn.


Row 3:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 4ch, 3dc into same place as join; 1sc spike into top of "middle" dc on row 1;  (3dc, 4ch, 3dc into next 3ch sp;   1sc spike into top of "middle dc on row 1) x4;   sl st into the top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn.

Row 4:  Join yarn in space to the left of any sc spike; 1ch (counts as 1sc) in same sp as join;  1sc in space between next 2dc;   3sc into 4ch sp;   15ch, sl st into top of last sc; 3sc into 4ch sp;  1sc in space between next 2dc;  (1sc into sp before dc spike;   1 picot; 1sc into sp after dc spike;  1sc in space between next 2dc;   3sc into 4ch sp;   1 picot; 3sc into 4ch sp;  1sc in space between next 2dc) x 4;   1 picot, sl st into 1ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Note:   A picot is formed by crocheting 3ch then sl st into the top of the last sc, in exactly the same way as the 15ch loop is made.     The 15ch loop can be replaced with a 3ch picot if you want to use the star for an applique. 

Work in ends.  Depending on the yarn used and your tension you may need to block your star (a puff of steam and a gentle flattening with palm is usually sufficient)

Little Wildflowers

Make a magic ring.
 
Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into the ring,  5ch;   (2dc, 5ch) x4 (5 petals formed),  sl st into sp between 2dc to close;

 
Row 2:   Join yarn in space between two dc (1ch; 6hdc into 5ch sp, 1ch, sl st into next sp between two dc) x5 (the last sl st being worked into the start 1ch);   break off yarn

Embellish with beads or buttons.

A sweet addition to a baby blanket!!!

Teeny Tiny Star

 

Yarn:    Raeesah Cotton Soft DK

Hook:  4.00mm

Pattern is written in US TERMS

Foundation:   3ch sl st into first ch to make ring OR make a magic ring

Row 1:   1ch, 1sc into ring;   4ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed), 1ch;   [2sc into ring, 4ch, sl st into 3ch from hook (picot formed). 1ch] x 4, sl st into 1ch at start to close

To give them a bit of sparkle I added some glitter glue! 

Pansy and Leaves Pattern

Pansy Flower:

Foundation: 3ch or make a magic ring

Petals:  (3ch, 4 trc, 3ch, sl st into ring) x 2;   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring;   3ch, 2trc, 3ch sl st into ring,   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring,    break off yarn.

Embroider the flower centres in a contrasting colour

Leaves: 

Foundation:  6ch

Leaf:  1sc into 2nd ch from hook; 1sc into next ch, 1hdc into each of next 2ch;  6dc into last chain (this will form the curve of your leaf and will bring you around to the bottom end of the chain);   working along the bottom edge of the chain, 1hdc into each of next 2ch; 1sc into next ch,  sl st into next ch, break off yarn.

Lovely as an embellishment on a hat, bag or scarf such as the GRANNY STRIPE SCARF

Happy Days Mandala

Coffee Cotton is a Cotton, Pan Fibre, Coffee Extract Blend which does not split and makes for a very neat stitch. 

Sadly the colours are not very vibrant and there are only 9 colours to choose from.

Last week I worked through my Coffee Cotton stash by crocheting a few quick and easy mandalas. 

I made this one for my daughter's craft room in her lovely new home:

I had the idea to use these to make up small gifts, by wrapping cellophane around a small potted herb, threading ribbon through the "meshy" part of the mandala and then tying that around the pot. 


 

I have not as yet been able to find small potted plants (ideally herbs) and have therefore not been able to test my idea as yet!!

 

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% cotton (or any cotton blend) (I used "Coffee Cotton" - a blend of cotton, pan fibre and coffee extract)
 
HOOK: 4.00mm

SIZE:  23cm in diameter

PATTERN TERMS:   US

This is the pattern I used as the focal point for the Happy Days Mandala Square.   (Note:  Row by Row photos of the first 11 rows can be found HERE)

Foundation:  3ch, sl st to form a circle OR make a magic circle

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  11 dc into circle;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc)

Row 2:  Join yarn into any sp between dc,  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc in same space as join (2dc grouping);  [2dc into each sp between dc  (2dc grouping)] x11;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (24dc)

Row 3:  Join yarn in centre of any 2dc grouping;  4ch (counts as 1trc), 2trc into same space as join;  [3trc into centre of next 2dc grouping (3trc grouping)] x 11, sl st into top of 4ch at start to close (36trc).   Break off yarn.

Row 4:    Join yarn in space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on any 3trc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same space as join;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc post;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings;   [2dc into space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on next 3trc grouping;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc posts;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings] x11; sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (60dc).   Break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join yarn in any dc;  2ch (counts as 1hdc);  (1hdc into each dc) x59;    sl st into top of 2ch at start to close (60hdc).   Break off yarn

Row 6:  Join yarn in any sp between 2 hdc;  4ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  (skip 2sp between hdc;   1sc, 3ch into next sp between hdc) x19;  sl st into 1st of 4ch at start to close.   Break off yarn

Row 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same sp as join (4dc grouping);  [4dc in next 3ch space (4dc grouping)] x19 (20 x 4dc groupings);  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 8:  Join yarn in any sp between 4dc groupings;  5ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  [1sc, 4ch in next space between 4dc groupings] x 19;  sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.  (see photo for Row 6) 

Row 9:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp, 2ch (counts as 1hdc); 4hdc into same sp as join;   [5hdc into next 4ch sp (5hdc grouping)] x19;   sl st into top of 2ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 10:  Join yarn in 1st hdc of any 5hdc grouping,  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc;  2dc into next dc;   (1dc into next dc) x2;  [(1dc into next dc) x2;  2dc into next dc;  (1dc into next dc) x2] x19

Row 11:  Join yarn between any two dc on last row of Mandala, 4ch in same space as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  [skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1sc into the 3rd space, 3ch] repeat all around the circle;  3ch sl st into first chain at start of row (40 x 3ch loops).   Break off yarn

Row 12:  (edging)   Join yarn with a sl st in any 3ch space;   [(1hdc, 2dc, 2trc, 2dc, 1hdc) into next 3ch space;   sl st into next 3ch space) x 19;  (1hdc, 2dc, 2trc, 2dc, 1hdc) into next 3ch space.     Break off yarn and join to first sl st in the row with a yarn needle.

Hibiscus Bloom: Pattern

I had a 100g ball of Lollipop variegated yarn in spectacularly bright rainbow colours.    Thought I would make a ROAD TRIP SCARF with it - but OUCH - there was just too much colour going on (never thought I would actually say something like that!!)

I suddenly had the idea to make a beach bag and just started crocheting!    Even though I had no clear idea as to what the end product would look like, I knew EXACTLY how I wanted to decorate it!     Great big floppy Hibiscus Blooms - like the ones you find on the Island Queen Hibiscus:

The bloom is quite frilly and just altogether fantastic. Not an easy thing to recreate!     

Remember a few weeks back I helped Designer Iin Wibisono test the FRILLY PANSY pattern (I used it to decorate my JAR JACKETS)?     The big frilly pansy petals were perfect to start forming my Hibiscus Bloom - so thank you Iin for the inspiration and letting me borrow something from your idea!

I used the reverse single crochet to edge the first one I made:

I love the look of the reverse single crochet, but my fingers get a bit knotted up doing the crab stitch, so I changed the edging a bit on my second attempt:

Quite happy with how it turned out - of course not even close to as spectacular as Mother Nature's work - but not a bad yarny copy!

Special thanks also to the ladies who tested the pattern for me!   You girls ROCK!

Gloria Clayton used a cotton poly blend for the petals and base but had to switch to Simply Soft to get the hot pink border.    Gloria says "I found it pleasing to make and believe with your special stitch instruction it could be made by some beginners."   She suggests that you DO read the whole pattern through before starting to crochet as there are several portions to be worked.

Gabriela Mendez from Beunos Aires used cerise for rows 1 and 2 - the same colour as the beads; then a soft yellow for the petals and the flower centre; bright orange for the eding.   Gabriela says "it is wonderfully written, very clear"  

My wonderful bloggy friend, Pat Wilkinson, from SUNSHINE AND A SEWING BASKET once again stepped up to help me test, making her Hibiscus in these beautiful shades.

I can also always count on my Facebook friend, Laura Brozo to quickly and effectively test my patterns!   I just LOVE the hot pink she used as well as the straight slip stitch along the edge!

  
Thank you all, once again, for your wonderful input!

So enough blah blah blah from me....... here is the pattern!

HIBISCUS BLOOM

PATTERN TERMS:   US

My patterns are all written in US terms - I have included this little chart to make it easier for my UK readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.

Skill Level:  Intermediate

Approximate Time:  60 minutes

Yarn:  Any DK (8 ply / Light Worsted Weight) or Aran (10ply / Worsted Weight) Yarn (I used Lollipop DK) - The bloom is made from 3 different colours.

Hook:  Use whatever hook size suits your choice of yarn and your tension (I used a 5.00 mm hook;   and a 4.00mm hook)

Special Stitches:    I use a double triple crochet (dtrc) (yarn three times around hook) - this is known as a Triple Treble in UK Terms (ttr)

Foundation:  With colour A and using a 5.00mm hook - 4ch, sl st to join OR make a magic ring

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1 dc), 11 dc into circle (12 dc), sl st into top of 3ch to join

Row 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into top of same dc;  (2dc into top of  next dc) x11 = 24dc;   sl st into top of 3ch to join

Row 3:  Join colour B into top of any dc;   4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as join; 3dtrc into each of next 2dc; into next dc 2dtrc, 4ch sl st;   (4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as sl st from previous petal; 3dtrc into each of next 2dc;  into next dc 2dtrc, 4ch sl st) x 6;   4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as sl st from previous petal;  3dtrc into each of next 2dc; into next dc (same dc as start of first petal) 2dtrc, 4ch sl st= 8 petals formed

Petal Edging:   Using the 4.00mm hook join Colour C with a sl st into the top of first dtrc on any petal;  (1ch; 1sl st into the top of next dtrc) x 9;   (1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3;    sl st into sl st at base of 4ch;   6ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed) 3ch,  sl st into sl st at base of 4ch  

[(1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3;   (1ch, sl st into top of next dtrc) x 10;  (1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3;   sl st into sl st at base of 4ch;   6ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed) 3ch, sl st into sl st at base of 4ch] x 7;   break off yarn

(VARIATION:   you could use the reverse single crochet - as with the Frilly Pansy - to edge your petals!)

Flower Centre:  Using the 4.00mm hook attach Colour B with a slip stitch around any dc post in Row 1;   9ch,  sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed)  6ch;   

(sl st around next dc post in Row 1;   9ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook;   6ch) x 11;   sl st around last dc post from Row 1;   break off yarn


 
Embellishment - sew a few little beads into the centre of the flower!

This little flower is quite versatile!

Leave the picot part out when you do the edging,   don't crochet the flower centre - and add a big button to the centre instead:

PS:  OOOh...... ooh and a last test in - this one from Iin Wibisono - isn't it pretty???  (Thank you Iin)

Wild Flowers Scarf: Pattern

 

As promised, the pattern for the MOM AND DAUGHTER CROCHET ALONG SCARF,   A.K.A. "The Wildflowers Scarf"!

PATTERN TERMS:   US

My patterns are all written in US terms - I have included this little chart to make it easier for my UK readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.

Skill Level:  Easy

Approximate Time:  2 hours

Yarn:

I used Elle Escapade DK for the first scarf and Lollipop DK for the other two 

Any DK (8 ply / Light Worsted Weight) or Aran (10ply / Worsted Weight) Yarn would be suitable

Hook Size:

I used a 6.00mm for the foundation chains and a 5.50mm for the rest

Use whatever hook size suits your choice of yarn and your tension.

Size:  

Width - 13cm
Length - 164cm (excluding embellishments)

SCARF


Foundation:   with a 6.00mm hook crochet 24ch

Change to 5.50mm hook

(I use a slightly bigger hook to crochet the foundation chain - gives a more even start to the workpiece)

 

Repeat Row 2 until scarf is required length (I made mine 164 cm - over 125 rows)

Working across the length;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same sp post;   2dc into each post;   6dc into last post at end of row;

working across the width,  2dc into each 1ch sp;   6dc into last 1ch sp at end of row;

working across the length, 2dc into post directly after 6dc;   2dc into each post;   6dc into last post at end of row;

working across the width,  2dc into each 1ch sp,   3dc into same space as start 3ch, sl st into top of 3ch to close.   

I quite fancy the reverse single crochet although I have to admit it is a bit fiddly.     For a beginner a regular single crochet edging might be a more comfortable option.

The scarf can be worn as is or you can really go to town decorating it!!   Add a few wildflowers, or beaded braids / tassels!

SMALL WILD FLOWER

Make a magic ring.

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into the ring,  5ch;   (2dc, 5ch) x4 (5 petals formed),  sl st into sp between 2dc to close;

Row 2:   Join yarn in space between two dc (1ch; 6hdc into 5ch sp, 1ch, sl st into next sp between two dc) x5 (the last sl st being worked into the start 1ch);   break off yarn

LARGE WILD FLOWER
 
Make a magic ring.

Row 1:  4ch (counts as 1trc), 1trc into the ring,  5ch;   (2trc, 5ch) x4 (5 petals formed),  sl st into sp between 2dc to close;

Row 2:  Join yarn in space between two trc (2ch; 6dc into 5ch sp, 2ch, sl st into next sp between two trc) x5 (the last sl st being worked into the 1st of the 2ch at the start);   break off yarn
 

Embellish your flowers with additional stitchwork, embroidery, beads and buttons!    (No rules!   Just have fun!)