A few years ago I started making "MAGIC BLANKETS" in order to keep my yarn stash / scraps under control.
The Magic Blanket concept is a combination of two techniques: "Multi Stranding" and "Magic Knotting".
Multi stranding is a clever way to rid your stash of those "what was I thinking?" and/or "why did I buy so much of this?" yarns, by toning down brights with a pastel or neutral; or brightening dull and/or dark colours with something fun and splashy.
If you have never crocheted with two or more strands before, Red Heart Yarn's GUIDE TO MULTI STRAND CROCHET is a good read to acquaint yourself with the technique.
Combine the Multi Strand Technique with the MAGIC KNOT and you have THE perfect solution to the yarn scrap problem. Knot together small lengths of yarn and then wind the "new" yarn into balls or cakes.
IMPORTANT!!: Be sure to check each knot properly before and after you snip the threads. I have been using this technique for years and every now and then I botch a knot (especially when I am a bit tired). If the knot is done correctly it will hold as long as the yarn holds.
These soft and squishy Magic Blankets are robust and very, very warm. They are ideal donations for newborn babies of underprivileged mommies, the homeless and patients with dementia.
Knot together cotton scraps. Use a single strand of Magic Yarn to make wash cloths. These little cloths are wonderfully soft. I add a pretty printed note, roll them up and slip them into a cellophane bag, before I donate them to be added to the gift packs for the new mommies at the provincial hospital.
There is a good chance that my friend Kim Ryan from Australia loves making Magic Blankets even more than I do. She has made so many for the homeless that an Estate Agent in her hometown has undertaken to sponsor her yarn!! These are just a few of gorgeous blankets Kim has made and donated to the Salvation Army for distribution to the homeless. For more photos visit KIM'S FACEBOOK GROUP where Kim and fellow MB-ers share their colourful makes.
SOME FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
Should I wash the blanket before I donate it?
That is a matter of preference. I always wash mine since I mostly make blankets for Hospice and Babies born to underprivileged mommy's. A freshly laundered blanket is just an added personal touch.
How do I wash the Magic Blanket?
An acrylic blanket (or blanket made from yarns with no more than 30% natural fibre content) can be washed in the washing machine on a "gentle" cycle, using a gentle washing agent. Liquid laundry detergent works the best, as powders often adhere to the fibres and leave them a bit scratchy. A cold water wash is best (you can use the warm cycle as long as the water is not hotter than 30 degrees celcius). Put the blanket in with other soft washing such as towels and t-shirts. Be careful not to put anything in the wash that has hooks, buttons or zips. I always add Fabric Softner to the rinse. Spin on gentle cycle. Fold the blanket over the line so that the weight is distributed equally. Once dry I like to give it a short spin in the tumbledryer with an anti-static sheet (such as Cherubs) for 20 - 30 minutes on high.
Tip: If the blankets are intended for a healthy baby, I then give them a spray with some gently fragranced baby linen spray before packing them in plastic.
Note: This method of washing is for healthy, full term babies. Always check with your local NICU what their requirements are for preemie blankets or for babies with special needs.
What yarn can I use?
Yarns with less than 30% natural fibre content are preferable to avoid shrinkage and to limit special laundry requirements.
I have mixed acrylic / cotton; acrylic / wool and acrylic yarns together with great success.
What weight of yarn can I use?
Any weight as long as the combined weight of the strands worked together is equal throughout.
16ply is my go to weight. This can be made up of 2 strands of 4 ply plus 1 strand of 8ply (DK); or 1 strand of chunky (12 ply) and 1 strand of 4ply, or 2 strands of 8ply (DK), etc.
Do I work with one combined "Magic Ball" or two separate balls?
Once again, a matter of preference. I find it more convenient to roll the strands together into one ball. This makes the project much easier to carry along with you.
How do I get the sides to look neat?
In order to get an even side edge ch 2, insert hook in second ch from hook, pull a loop up (2 loops on hook), insert hook where 1st stitch should be, pull a loop up (3 loops on hook) now complete your dc. This works a charm but I don't use it for my patterns as a lot of people struggle with where to put the border stitches.
Do I crochet a border around the blanket?
I would say YES! A blanket with a border around looks finished and is much neater.
What is the easiest way to border the blanket?
Using only 1 strand of DK in a solid colour and a 4.mm hook. Join yarn into the top of any dc along side (the same space into which your 1st or last dc from the next row has been worked). 4ch (counts as 1sc, 1ch) , 1sc into top of next dc, 3ch, sc into top of next dc,
along bottom and top skip 2 dc posts between 3ch, sc.
2nd row 3dc into each 3ch, corner 3dc, 3ch, 3dc. 3rd row, into each sp between 3dc groups, 3ch, 2dc, sl st into next sp, repeat along all sides.
These two rows give you a neat foundation with which to work. You can either add a simple edge after the second row, or work more border rounds.
Which patterns are suitable for Magic Blankets?
Again a matter of preference. I prefer to use something very simple. My top choice is the double crochet stripe. No matter how colourful your yarn, the dc stripe always turns out lovely!
The "v-stitch" stripe is also suitable. I use this when I have longer colour changes in my Magic Yarn.
A SOLID CONTINUOUS SQUARE is just the ticket when you are not sure "how much" blanket you are going to get for your Magic Yarn.
The solid continuous square is also suitable for making wash cloths from Magic Cotton Yarn.
I hope this answers most of your questions. If you would like to know anything more, please leave me a comment or hop on over to Kim's Group and join in the fun!
Happy hooking!!
Hello Seaside CAL-ers!
I hurt my elbow a few weeks back and the pain has been getting gradually worse. I have been trying to rest my arm as much as possible - only crocheting for a few minutes at a time, so my carefully planned schedule has taken a bit of a knock!
I added a few rows to the Port Shepstone centre to make a matching mandala. The Mandala is not part of the Seaside Winter Blanket and is an optional extra.
PORT SHEPSTONE MANDALA PATTERN:
PATTERN TERMS: US
Follow the link provided, work up Rounds 1 - 8 of the PORT SHEPSTONE SQUARE and then come back here to complete the mandala.
Round 9: Join yarn in any 3ch space. [3ch, 1trc in same sp as join (counts as 2trc tog); (2trc tog, 3ch) x4 (fan); (skip 4sc, 1sc into each of next 5sc, skip 4sc)]
[2trc tog, (3ch, 2trc tog into same 3ch sp) x4; (skip 4sc, 1sc into each of next 5sc, skip 4sc)] x7. Sl st into top of start 2dc tog to close. Break off yarn.
Round 10: Join yarn in 1st 3ch of any fan. [4hdc into same sp as join; (4hdc into next 3ch sp) x3; 6ch]
[(4hdc into next 3ch sp) x4; 6ch] x7. Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 11: Join yarn in 1st hdc on any fan. 2ch (counts as 1hdc); 1hdc into each of next 15hdc; [hold ch to the front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch (Round 9); hold ch to the back of your work, work 1trc into sc in front of chain.) x2 hold ch to the front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch];
{1hdc into each of next 15hdc; [hold ch to the
front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch (Round 9); hold ch to
the back of your work, work 1trc into sc in front of chain.) x2 hold
ch to the front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch]} x7. Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.
Row 12: Join yarn in any stitch. Sl st in each stitch around mandala. Sl st in start sl st to close. Or join using the INVISIBLE JOIN
Hello and welcome Seaside CAL-ers!
Your blankets are all looking quite spectacular and I know a lot of you are eagerly awaiting the edging! I have provided two slightly different edgings for you to choose from - one a straight lacy edge (Edging A) and the and the other a delicate ruffle (Edging B). (Note: Edging B is a very time consuming, yarn hungry edging.)
South Coast Edging:
Special Stitch:
Picot - 3ch, sl st into 1st chain, continue with next stitch
Round 1 (A & B): Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp; 4ch (counts as 1sc, 3ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join, 3ch; [skip 2hdc group, 1sc into sp between 2hdc groups; 3ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp.
{(1sc, 3ch, 1sc into 3ch corner sp, 3ch); (skip 2hdc group, 1sc into sp between next 2hdc groups, 3ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp} x3. Sl st into 1st of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Edging A
Round 2: Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp; 4ch (counts as 1sc, 3ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join, 3ch (1sc into next 3ch sp, 3ch) repeat to next 3ch corner sp.
[(1sc, 3ch, 1sc into corner 3ch sp), 3ch, (1sc into next 3ch sp, 3ch) repeat to next 3ch corner] x3. Sl St into 1st of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 3: Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp. [3ch (counts as 1dc), (1dc, picot, 2dc into same sp as join)]; (1dc, picot, 1dc into next 3ch sp) repeat to corner 3ch;
[(2dc, picot, 2dc into corner 3ch sp) (1dc, picot, 1dc into next 3ch sp) repeat to corner 3ch] x3; sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Edging B
Round 2: Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp; 6ch (counts as 1sc, 5ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join, 5ch (1sc into next 3ch sp, 5ch) repeat to next 3ch corner sp.
[(1sc, 5ch, 1sc into corner 3ch sp), 5ch, (1sc into next 3ch sp, 5ch) repeat to next 3ch corner] x3. Sl St into 1st of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 3: Join yarn in any 5ch corner sp. [4ch (counts as 1trc), (1trc, picot, 2trc, picot, 2trc into same sp as join)]; (1trc, picot, 1trc, picot, 1trc into next 5ch sp) repeat to corner 5ch;[(2trc, picot, 2trc, picot, 2trc into corner 5ch); (1trc, picot, 1trc, picot, 1trc into next 5ch sp) repeat to corner 5ch] x3; sl st into 4th of start ch to close. Break off yarn
PS:
The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.
The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned
post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group
Hello and welcome Seaside CAL-ers!
This week we will be working on Rounds 5 - 8 of the border. The 8 round pattern is "universal" which means that you can repeat it over and over again and your stitch count should remain correct.
If you would like a narrow, simple border crochet only the foundation rounds and 1 x the eight round pattern.
Should you require a more dramatic border, crochet the foundation rounds and repeat the 8 round pattern twice or more.
SOUTH COAST BORDER (2)
PATTERN TERMS: US
SPECIAL STITCHES
Popcorn Stitch: (Ps) = 3dc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back on the first dc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through
Note: your start popcorn stitch (SPs) is worked as follows: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back in the 3rd ch, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through
Pattern Round 5: Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp; 3ch (counts as 1sc, 2ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join, 2ch; [skip 2dc group, 1sc into sp between 2dc groups; 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp.
{(1sc, 2ch, 1sc into 3ch corner sp, 2ch); (skip 2dc group, 1sc into sp between next 2dc groups, 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp} x3. Sl st into 1st of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Pattern Round 6: Join yarn in corner 2ch sp. (1SPs, 3ch, 1Ps in same 2ch corner sp, 2ch); (1Ps into next 2ch sp, 2ch) repeat to next 2ch corner sp;
[(1Ps, 3ch, 1Ps into 2ch corner sp, 2ch); ( 1Ps into next 2ch sp, 2ch) repeat to next 2ch corner sp] x3. Sl st into top of SPs to close. Break off yarn
Note: Popcorn stitches are very "yarn greedy". A more yarn economical option is to substitute the Popcorn Stitch with a 2dc tog.
Pattern Round 7: Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp. 3ch (counts as 1sc, 2ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join, 2ch; [skip Ps, 1sc into next 2ch sp; 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp.
{(1sc, 2ch, 1sc into 3ch corner sp); (skip Ps, 1sc into next 2ch sp, 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp} x3. Sl st into 1st of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Pattern Round 8: Join yarn in any 2ch corner; [2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc, 3ch, 2hdc into same sp as join]; 2hdc into each 2ch sp until you reach next corner;
[(2hdc,3ch, 2hdc into 2ch corner sp); 2hdc into each 2ch sp until you reach next corner] x3. Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
PS:
The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.
The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned
post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group
Good Morning CAL-ers!
For the bonus coaster pattern I have added a border and edging to the circular part of the St Michael's-on-Sea Square. (Note: this pattern is an optional extra and is not incorporated into the Seaside Winter Blanket)
ST MIKE'S COASTER PATTERN:
PATTERN TERMS: US
Follow the link provided, work up Rounds 1 - 4 of the ST MICHAEL'S-ON-SEA SQUARE and then come back here to complete the coaster.
Round 5: Join yarn in top of any 3dc tog; [3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same place as join]; (6dc into top of next 3dc tog) x 11. (12 x 6dc Shells). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 6: Join yarn in top of any dc, (1ch, sl st into next dc) * repeat for the full round. Sl St into start 1ch to close.
**************
Many thanks to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES & MORE for testing this pattern.
Hello Seaside CAL-ers.
I have added a border and edging row to the Port Edward Square to make a matching mandala. The Mandala is not part of the Seaside Winter Blanket and is an optional extra.
PORT EDWARD MANDALA PATTERN:
PATTERN TERMS: US
Follow the link provided, work up Rounds 1 - 12 of the PORT EDWARD SQUARE and then come back here to complete the mandala.
Round 13: Join yarn in standing sc. [3ch, 1trc (counts as 2trc tog); (2ch, 2trc tog) x3 into same sp as join], skip 4sc; 1sc into next sc; skip 4sc;
{[2trc tog; (2ch, 2trc tog) x3 into next sc]; skip 4sc; 1sc into next sc; skip 4sc} x 15. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close Break off yarn.
Round 14: Join yarn in sp to the right of any sc, 1ch,; sl st into sp to the left of sc, 1ch; (sl st into top of 2trc tog, 1ch; sl st into next 2ch sp, 1ch) x3; sl st into top of 2trc tog, 1ch;
[sl st into sp to the right of next sc, 1ch; sl st into sp to the left of sc, 1ch; (sl st into top of 2trc tog, 1ch, sl st into 2ch sp, 1ch) x 3; sl st into top of 2trc tog, 1ch] x15; sl st into start 1ch to close. Break off yarn.
**************
Hello and welcome Seaside CAL-ers!
Our last stop at the colourful craft village of Umnini marked our last stop along the lovely Kwa Zulu Natal South Coast.
For me, putting a blanket together is like building a scrapbook page (one of my favourite things to do)! The squares are the photos (the happy memories gathered along the way), the border is the pretty paper used to showcase them and the edging is the embelishment!
The VISIBLE JOIN my Great Grandmother taught me many decades ago has always been my go-to join for blankets of different square patterns with a definite right side. The join is very forgiving and displays as a pretty "stitch" on the right side of the work. It does not demand expert and precise crocheting for a neat result!!
In order to obtain visual balance with the border we will start with three foundation rounds before moving on to the eight round border pattern.
If you would like a narrow, simple border crochet only the foundation rounds and 1 x the eight round pattern.
Should you require a more dramatic border, crochet the foundation rounds and repeat the 8 round pattern twice or more.
SOUTH COAST BORDER (1)
PATTERN TERMS: US
Foundation Round 1: Using the same colour used for your visible join, join yarn with a standing sc in any 3ch corner of your assembled blanket; 2sc into same 3ch sp; 1sc into top of each dc until you reach the next corner of your assembled blanket. (when you reach a corner on a block 1sc into 3ch corner of that block, 1sc into loop of join, 1sc into 3ch corner of) next block.
(3sc into next 3ch corner sp; 1sc into top of each dc to next corner) 33. Sl st into standing sc at start of round to close. Break off yarn.
Note: when you reach a corner on a joined block 1sc into 3ch corner of that block, 1sc into loop of join, 1sc into 3ch corner of) next block.
Foundation Round 2: Using same colour used for the square's border rounds, join yarn in 2nd sc of any corner 3sc. 3ch (counts as 1dc: 4dc into same sc. 1dc into each sc until you reach the 2nd sc on the next corner;
(5dc into 2nd sc of corner 3sc; 1dc into each sc until you reach the 2nd sc on the next corner) x3. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Do not break off yarn.
Foundation Round 3: 3ch, 1dc into next dc; (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next dc); 1dc into each dc until you reach the 3rd dc on the next corner 5dc;
[(2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3rd of corner 5dc); 1dc into each dc unti lyou reach the 3rd dc on the next corner 5dc] x3. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
The sides of your blanket may or may not have an even stitch count at the end of Foundation Round 3.
Pattern Round 1 also serves as a "correction" round. If you have an even number of stitches this round will work out exactly. If, however, you have an odd number you will be left with 1 extra (odd) stitch. In this case treat the single stitch as two stitches in accordance with the pattern. Should you be pedantic about the appearance of stitch count, I suggest crocheting Pattern Round 1 in the same colour as your last two foundation rows as this will make the stitch correction "invisible"
Pattern Round 1: Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp. 3ch (counts as 1sc, 2ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join; [skip 1sp between dc (2dc posts), 1sc into next sp between dc; 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp.
{(1sc, 2ch, 1sc into 3ch corner sp); (skip 1sp between dc (2dc posts), 1sc into next sp between dc; 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp} x3. Sl st into 1st of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Pattern Round 2: Join yarn in any 2ch corner; [3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same sp as join]; 2dc (2dc group) into each 2ch sp until you reach next corner;
[(2dc,3ch, 2dc into 2ch corner sp); 2dc (2dc group) into each 2ch sp until you reach next corner] x3. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Pattern Round 3: Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp. [3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same 3ch corner]; (2dc into sp between each 2dc group) repeat until you reach the next 3ch corner sp;
[(2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next corner sp); (2dc into sp between each 2dc group) repeat until you reach the next 3ch corner sp] x3. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Pattern Round 4: Repeat Round 3
Note: The border should lay flat. If you find your border "ruffling" you may have too many stitches. Extra stitches are usually picked up over a join - make sure that you only have 3 stitches at each join - 1 in the first corner space, 1 into the join and 1 in the 2nd corner space. Skip the first stitch after working into the 2nd corner space. Switch to a smaller hook - if you used a 4.00mm try a 3.50mm or a 3.00mm
PS:
The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.
The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned
post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group
Hello lovely CAL-ers!
The 3rd and final bonus square takes its name from the Umnini Craft Village, a brightly decorated arts and crafts market on either side of the N2 highway about 10km south of Amanzimtoti on the KZN South Coast. Here crafters from the local community work in open-fronted little wooden kiosks painted in primary colours and decorated with ethnic patterns.
Having an absolute love of anything "baskety" to store my craft goodies and yarn in, this has been a favourite holiday stop of mine since early childhood (way back then it was just rows of makeshift shacks constructed along the road - but that somehow made it all the more awesome!)
The bonus squares are not part of the CAL layout and therefore do not follow the number sequence of the CAL squares. They can be used to grow your blanket or swap out with squares that you may not be "in love" with. Remember the layout is merely a guideline - you can make your blankets up as you wish!
The design for the Umnini square is not new. I have taken the centre rounds of one of my mandala designs and "squared" them. Follow the link provided, work up Rounds 1 to 4 and then come back here to complete the square.
UMNINI SQUARE PATTERN
PATTERN TERMS: US
Foundation; Rounds 1 -4 follow Foundation, Rows 1 - 4 of DAHLIA MANDALA PATTERN
Round 5: Join yarn in any 7ch sp. [3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc, 3ch, 4dc into same 7ch sp]; (8sc into next 7ch sp) x2;
[(4dc, 3ch, 4dc into next 7ch sp); (8sc into next 7ch sp) x2] x3. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 6: Join yarn in any 3ch sp. [3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same 3ch sp]; 1dc into each of next 5sts; 1hdc into each of next 14sts; 1dc into each of next 5sts;
[(2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next 3ch sp); 1dc into each of next 5sts, 1hdc into each of next 14sts, 1dc into each of next 5sts] x3. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Crochet BORDER ROUNDS 1 & 2 around square only if you are using it in your Seaside Winter Blanket.
PS:
The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.
The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned
post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group
Welcome Seaside CAL-ers. This week we will be making the "Port Edward" Square - the 12th and
final CAL Square and the 2nd large square, measuring 38cm x 38cm
including the border rounds.
PORT EDWARD is a quaint (very quaint) little village that lies at the Southern Gateway to the paradise that is the South Coast. The Umtamvuna River Bridge was historically the border between South Africa and then Transkei. Port Edward is the last village on the Hibiscus Coast and is often considered the first village on the Wild Coast.
If you are late to the party please take a moment to read the Introduction, You Might Like to Know, and In Love With Colour Posts as they contain important information regarding yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method etc.
I will be consolidating the weekly patterns into a single SEASIDE WINTER BLANKET PATTERN, which will be available for purchase on Ravelry. However, the single patterns will remain FREE on my blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets / squares as you like!
(Please remember that the two Bonus Squares, "Amanzimtoti"and "Southbroom" are not included in my original layout and have therefore not been included in the count).
This pattern does not contain any overly complicated stitches or techniques, however, the rounds contain many different stitch patterns and groupings that do require concentration. I have tried to make the pattern lines shorter and easier to follow by providing special stitch explanations.
PORT EDWARD SQUARE PATTERN:
Make 1 x Port Edward Square for the Baby Blanket; Make 2 x Port Edward Squares for the Lapghan.
PATTERN TERMS: US
SPECIAL STITCHES
Popcorn Stitch: (Ps) = 3dc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back on the first dc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through
Note: your start popcorn stitch (SPs) is worked as follows: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back in the 3rd ch, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through
3 Triple Crochet Cluster: (3trc cl) = yoh x2, insert hook in specified stitch, pull a loop through, (yoh, draw through two loops) x2; do not complete the stitch, leaving the last loop of the trc on your hook (2 loops on hook); working in the same st, make 2x more trc in the same way, leaving the last loop of each trc on your hook; yoh and pull loop through 4 remaining loops on the hook all at once.
3 Stitch Overlay Cluster: (3stOcl) = 1dc, 3tr trc, 1dc tog crochet over 3 spaces as follows:
- yoh,insert hook in next 2ch sp, pull through loop, yoh pull through 2 loops (2 loops remaining on hook)
- 4yoh, working in front of work, insert hook between in 1ch sp between 2hdc in Round 4, pull through loop, (yoh pull through 2 loops) x4 (3 loops on hook);
- yoh,insert hook in next 2ch sp, pull through loop, yoh pull loop through 4 loops on hook
Triple Crochet "v": (trcv) Insert hook in 2ch sp to the right of specified 3stOcl, 1trc, 2ch; insert hook into 2ch sp to the left of same 3stOcl ; 1trc
3 Triple Crochet Decrease: (3trc dec) = worked over 3 stitches, yoh x 2, insert hook in specified stitch, pull a loop through, (yoh,
draw through two loops; do not complete the stitch, leaving the
last loop of the trc on your hook (2 loops on hook); working in the next 2sts make 1dc in each st in the same way, leaving the last loop of each dc on your hook; yoh and pull loop through 4 remaining loops on the
hook all at once.
Start 3 Triple Crochet Decrease: (s3trc dec) = worked over 3 stitches. Join yarn in specified stitch. 3ch (counts as first incomplete trc) (1 loop on hook); working in the next stitch yoh x2, insert hook in specified stitch, pull a loop through, (yoh, draw
through two loops) x2; do not complete the stitch, leaving the last
loop of the trc on your hook (2 loops on hook); working in the next stitch make 1 x more trc in the same way, leaving the
last loop on your hook; yoh and pull loop through 3
remaining loops on the hook all at once.
Large Popcorn Stitch: (LPs) = 6dc then
remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back on the
first dc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull through
Foundation: 4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.
Round 1: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 15dc into ring (16dc). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 2: Join yarn in top of any dc. [5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), 1dc into same dc as join, 2ch, skip 1dc]; (1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next dc, 2ch, skip 1dc) x7. (8 "v", 2ch). Sl st into top 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 3: Join yarn in any 2ch sp, SPs into same 2ch as join, 2ch. (1Ps into next 2ch sp, 2ch) x15. Sl st into top of SPs to close. (16 x Ps, 2ch). Break off yarn.
Round 4: Join yarn in any 2ch sp. [3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 1hdc into same sp as join], 6ch, [3trc cl into next 2ch sp, 6ch, (1hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into next 2ch sp), 6ch] x7; 3trc cl into next 2ch sp, 6ch. Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.
Round 5: Join yarn in 6ch sp to the left of any 2hdc. [2ch (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc, 2ch, 3dc into same 6ch sp], 6ch;
[(3dc, 2ch, 3hdc into next 6ch sp); (3hdc, 2ch, 3dc into next 6ch sp); 6ch] x7; (3dc, 2ch, 3hdc into next 6ch sp). Sl St into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 6: Join yarn in any 6ch sp. [2ch, 1dc (counts as 2dc tog), 2ch; (2dc tog, 2ch) x3 = fan into same 6ch sp]; 3stOcl *see special stitches*; 2ch;
[(2dc tog, 2ch) x4 = fan; 3stOcl; 2ch] x7; Sl st into top of start 2dc tog to close. Break off yarn.
Round 7: Join yarn in 1st 2ch of any fan; [5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), 1dc into same 2ch sp (dcv)]; (1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp) x2; 1trcv *see special stitches*
[(1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp on fan) x3; 1trcv] x7. sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 8: Join yarn in 2ch sp of any 1trcv. [3ch (counts as 1dc), 6dc into same 2ch sp as join]; sl st into next 2ch sp;
(7dc into next 2ch sp; sl st into next 2ch sp) x 15. (16 x 7dc shells). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 9: Join yarn with a standing sc in any sl st. 1sc into each of next 7dc;
(1sc into next sl st; 1sc into each of next 7dc) x 15. Sl st into top of standing sc to close. Break off yarn.
Round 10: Join yarn in standing sc of Round 9. [5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), 1dc into same sc as join (dcv)]; 7ch, skip next 7sc;
[(1dc, 2ch, 1dc) into next sc; 7ch, skip next 7sc] x 15. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 11: Join yarn in any 2ch sp. [3ch (counts as 1dc), 8dc into same 2ch sp]; working over 7ch, 1hdc into 4th sc in Round 9;
{9dc into next 2ch sp; working over 7ch, 1hdc into 4th sc in Round 9] x15. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 12: Join yarn with a standing sc in any hdc. 1sc into each of next 159 sts (160sc). Sl st into standing sc to close. Break off yarn.
Round 13: Join yarn in first st to the right of standing sc; s3trc dec over specified and next two sts; (1dc into each of next 3st, 3dc into next st, 1dc into each of next 3st); [3trc dec over next three sts; (1dc into each of next 3st, 3dc into next sc, 1dc into each of next 3dc)] x2; 3trc dec over next three sts; [1trc into each of next 3sc; (3trc, 3ch, 3trc into next st); 1trc into each of next 3st];
{[3trc dec over next three sts; (1dc into each of next 3st, 3dc into next sc, 1dc into each of next 3dc)] x3; 3trc dec over next three sts; [1trc into each of next 3sc; (3trc, 3ch, 3trc into next st); 1trc into each of next 3st]} x3. Sl st into top of s3trc dec to close. Break off yarn.
Round 14: Join yarn in any corner 3ch. [3ch, 1trc (counts as 2trc tog), 2ch, 2trc tog, 4ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog in same 3ch as join]; 6ch, skip next 7sts; 1sc into each of next 29sts; 6ch, skip next 7sts;
[(2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog, 4ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc
tog in next corner 3ch); 6ch, skip next 7sts; 1sc into each of next
29sts; 6ch, skip next 7sts] x3. Sl st into top of start 2trc tog to close.
Round 15: Join yarn in any 4ch (corner) sp. [3ch (counts as 1dc); 6dc into same 4ch sp], 3dc into next 2ch sp, [2ch, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc into 6ch sp), 2ch]; 1dc into each of next 29sc; [2ch, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 6ch sp), 2ch]; 3dc into next 2ch sp
{7dc into same 4ch sp, 3dc into next 2ch sp,
[2ch, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc into 6ch sp), 2ch]; 1dc into each of next 29sc;
[2ch, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 6ch sp), 2ch]; 3dc into next 2ch sp} x3 Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 16: Join yarn in 4th of corner 7dc. [2ch, 1dc (counts as 2dc tog), 3ch, 2dc tog in same sp as join]; 1Bpdc around each of next 6dc; 2ch, 1LPs into 2ch sp of v, 2ch, 1Bpdc around each of next 29dc; 2ch, 1LPs into 2ch sp of v, 2ch; 1Bpdc around each of next 6dc;
[(2dc tog, 3ch, 2dc tog in next dc); 1Bpdc around each of next 6dc; 2ch, 1LPs into
2ch sp of v, 2ch, 1Bpdc around each of next 29dc; 2ch, 1LPs into 2ch sp of v, 2ch; 1Bpdc around each of next 6dc] x3. Sl St into top of start 2dc tog to close. Break off yarn.
Round 17: Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp. [2ch, 1dc (counts as 2dc tog), 2ch, 2dc tog; 3ch, 2dc tog, 2ch, 2dc tog]; 1Fpdc around each of next 6sts; (hold next 2ch of Round 16 to the front of your work. 1trc, 1ch, 1trc behind this 2ch into the corresponding 2ch of Round 15) x2; 1Fpdc around each of next 29sts; (hold next 2ch of Round 16 to the front of your work. 1trc, 1ch, 1trc behind this 2ch into the corresponding 2ch of Round 15) x2; 1Fpdc around each of next 6sts;
[(2dc tog 2ch, 2dc tog; 3ch, 2dc tog, 2ch, 2dc tog); 1Fpdc around each of next 6sts; (hold next 2ch of Round 16 to the front of your work. 1trc, 1ch, 1trc behind this 2ch into the corresponding 2ch of Round 15) x2; 1Fpdc around each of next 29sts; (hold next 2ch of Round 16 to the front of your work. 1trc, 1ch, 1trc behind this 2ch into the corresponding 2ch of Round 15) x2; 1Fpdc around each of next 6sts] x3. Sl st into start 2dc tog to close. Break off yarn.
Round 18: Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp. [3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same 3ch sp]; 2dc into next 2ch sp; 1dc in back loop only of next 6dc; 1LPs into 1ch between next 2trc, 2ch, 1LPs into 1ch between next 2trc; 1dc in back loop only of next 29dc; 1LPs into 1ch between next 2trc, 2ch, 1LPs into 1ch between next 2trc; 1dc in back loop only of next 6dc, 2dc in next 2ch sp;
[(3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 3ch sp); 2dc into next 2ch sp; 1dc in back loop only of next 6dc; 1LPs into 1ch between next 2trc, 2ch, 1LPs into 1ch between next 2trc; 1dc in back loop only of next 29dc; 1LPs into 1ch between next 2trc, 2ch, 1LPs into 1ch between next 2trc; 1dc in back loop only of next 6dc; 2dc in next 2ch sp] x3. Sl St into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Crochet Border Rounds 1 and 2 around Square. Note: Border Round 1 requires you to work BPdc around the edge. This poses a small hurdle over the (LPs, 2ch, LPS) configuration of Round 18. Work as follows: 1dc into top of 1st LPS, 2dc into 2ch sp, 1dc into top of 2nd LPS
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I have added two rounds to the "circular" part of this square to make the PORT EDWARD MANDALA
A huge thank you to, Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE;
and Leanda Currie-Black Anthony
for the time and effort put into testing the Port Edward Square.
PS:
The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.
The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned
post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group
