Hello and welcome to Part 5 of our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL! The weeks are flying by so quickly and your growing blankets are a joy to behold!
Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!
Although the final stitch counts may vary slightly from square to square, great care has been taken to ensure that the blocks are all the same size. I make a few of each square to check and my tester also verifies this. Yarn colours of the same brand often differ in thickness. Yarn thickness may also vary brand to brand. For example, Stylecraft Special DK, is closer in thickness to the South African Mirage 4ply. Variations in tension across squares could also cause a difference in final measurements.
Please don't despair if your squares are not exact - the blocking process should correct this.
I suggest using a "forgiving" joining method like my Visible Join (see Introduction post) as this allows for varying stitch counts without causing work to pucker or pull. If you find your squares are very uneven, try using the visible join with
3dc posts (2 spaces) in between sc's. I count my last row of
stitches for each square before I start joining, then I know how many
stitch adjustments I need to allow for. Compensate by evenly spreading
the adjustment. So on the square with more stitches your join spacing
remains the same and on the square with less stitches you compensate by
only skipping 2dc posts (1 space) evenly spread across the length of
the square. If you find the join "pulls" a bit add in another ch
between sc's. Another method that works quite well with varying
stitch counts, allowing you to evenly spread the adjustment, is the CHAIN JOIN
This week we will be making the "Margate" Square.
MARGATE SQUARE PATTERN:
Make 1 x Margate Square for the Baby Blanket
Make 2 x Margate Squares for the Lapghan
Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:
INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR
Please take a moment to read the above posts, if you have not already done so in order to prepare yourself for our Crochet-a-long journey.
PATTERN TERMS: US
SPECIAL STITCHES:
SPIKE HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (Shdc) = yoh x1, insert hook into sp between "v" stitches in Round 2, yoh and pull loop up level with previous "normal" hdc. Complete the stitch.
Foundation: 4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.
Round 1: 2ch (counts as 1hdc); 11 x hdc into ring (12hdc). Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 2: Join yarn in any dc. 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same sp as join; (2dc into next dc) x11 (12 x "v" stitches of 2dc each). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 3: Join yarn between 2 dc posts of any "v". 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc into same sp as join; (3hdc between 2 dc posts of next "v") x11 (12 x 3hdc groups = 36sts). Sl st into nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 4: Join yarn between 1st and 2nd hdc post on any 3hdc group. 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc into sp between 2nd and 3rd hdc posts on same 3hdc group; 1Shdc in space between 3hdc groups into sp between "v" stitches in Round 2; (1hdc between 1st and 2nd posts on next 3hdc group; 1hdc into sp between 2nd and 3rd dc posts on same
3hdc group; 1Shdc in space between 3hdc groups into sp between "v"
stitches in Round 2) x 11 (36 sts). Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 5: Join yarn in sp between any 2 sts; 2ch (counts as 1hdc) into same sp as join; (1hdc into next sp between 2 sts) x35. (36hdc). Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 6: Join yarn in sp between any 2hdc; 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same sp as join; (1dc into sp between next 2hdc) x2 ; [2dc into next sp between next 2hdc; (1dc into sp between next 2hdc) x2) x11 (48dc). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 7: Join yarn in sp between any 2dc: 4ch (counts as 1sc, 3ch); [skip 2 sp (3 dc posts), sc into next sp; 3ch) x15. (16 x 3ch loops). Sl st into 1st of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 8: Join yarn in any 3ch loop. 4ch (counts as 1trc), (3trc, 3ch, 4trc into same 3ch loop); (4dc into next 3ch loop) x3; [(4trc, 3ch, 4trc into next 3ch loop), (4dc into next 3ch loop) x3] x3. Sl st into 4th of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 9: Join yarn with 1 standing sc in any 3ch corner; 2 sc into same 3ch corner; 1sc into each of next 20dc; (3sc into 3ch sp; 1sc into each of next 20dc) x3. Sl st into standing sc to close. Break off yarn.
Round 10: Join yarn in 2nd of corner 3sc. [3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same sp as join]; [1dc into each of next 22 sts; (2dc. 3ch, 2dc into next st)] x3; 1dc into each of next 22sts. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Crochet BORDER ROWS 1 AND 2 around square.
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A special thank you once again to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE for the time and effort put into testing the Margate Square.
PS:
The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.
The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned
post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group
Quite a few CAL-ers have been lamenting the fact that they do not have a decent yarn supplier in their vicinity. Here in South Africa the "Checkers" stores stock their own brand of yarn, called "Chick". This 100% Acrylic yarn is made by Saprotex and packaged under that name especially for Checkers. Although the range only contains basic colours there is still more than enough to choose from!
This photo was taken at Checkers, South Coast Mall and as you can see the shelves are pretty well stocked.
I set myself a little challenge....... to make a blanket using only this supermarket yarn.
The newer stock has a little sticker on the label denoting the colour, but the older stock only has a "lot" and colour "code" - so I had to do a bit of guessing when it came to the names of the colours.
I chose a blueish colourway of Royal (Blue), Light Grey, White, Saxe Blue, Cloud Blue and Jade
This yarn has been around for ages. I used to knit (no that is not a typo I actually used to knit as much as I crocheted) my kiddos jerseys with this yarn when they were little. It works up very nicely and although a bit on the stiff side, once washed correctly it is lovely and soft and wears very well.
I am not at all disappointed with the result.
The "Chick" works out to just under R22.00 for 100g which is great value for money.
Don't be afraid to try out "supermarket" yarns. The patterns I have created for this CAL work just as nicely with supermarket or budget acrylic yarns as they do with the more expensive yarns.
Join me again on Friday for the next instalment of the Seaside Winter Blanket CAL: Margate Square 5!
Hello and welcome to Part 4 of our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL!
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| "Neapolitan" |
I am so glad I created this CAL, it is such a thrill to see all your gorgeous colour combinations! I have not been able to resist all the possible colour combinations and have made up a few of my own!
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| "Watermelon" |
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| "Winter Sea" |
Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!
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| "Autumn" |
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| "Winter Berries" | | | |
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| "Baroque" |
I have provided explanations and links for the special stitches.
This week we will be making the "Umtentweni" Square:
UMTENTWENI SQUARE PATTERN:
Make 1 x Umtentweni Square for the Baby Blanket
Make 2 x Umtentweni Squares for the Lapghan
Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:
INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR
Please take a moment to read the above posts, if you have not already done so in order to prepare yourself for our Crochet-a-long journey.
PATTERN TERMS: US
SPECIAL STITCHES:
BPsc = BACK POST SINGLE CROCHET
BP standing sc = Back Post STANDING SINGLE CROCHET
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Foundation: 4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.
Round 1: 2 ch (counts as 1hdc), 15hdc into ring; sl st into 2nd of start ch to close (16hdc). Break off yarn.
Round 2: Join yarn in top of any hdc; 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same hdc as join, 2ch, skip 1hdc; (2dc into next hdc, 2ch, skip 1hdc) x7 (8 x 2dc, 2ch). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 3: Join yarn in any 2ch sp; 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc in same sp as join, 3ch; (3hdc into next 2ch sp, 3ch) x7 (8 x 3hdc, 3ch). Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 4: Join yarn in any 3ch sp; [2ch (counts as 1hdc), (3dc, 1hdc into same 3ch sp) - shell], 1ch, skip 1hdc, sl st into next hdc; [1ch, (1hdc, 3dc, 1hdc into next 3ch sp), 1ch, skip 1hdc, sl st into next hdc] x7, 1ch (8 petals formed). Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 5: Join yarn in 2nd st on any shell. 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc into each of next 2sts, 6ch; (1hdc into 2nd st on next shell, 1hdc into each of next 2sts, 6ch) x7. sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 6: Join yarn in any 6ch sp; 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 9hdc into same 6ch sp; (1sc into 2nd hdc, 10hdc into 6ch sp) x7; 1sc into 2nd hdc; sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. (8 x 10hdc petals) Break off yarn.
Round 7: Join yarn with a standing BPsc around 1st hdc of any 10hdc petal; 1BPsc around each of next 9hdc; 1ch; 1BPsc around each of next 10hdc; 4ch; (1BPsc around each of next 10hdc, 1ch, 1BPsc around each of next 10hdc; 4ch) x3. sl st into top of BP standing sc to close. (12 x 10hdc petals)
Round 8: Join yarn in any 4ch sp; 3ch, 1trc (counts as 2trc tog); 2ch, 2trc tog, 3ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog, skip 4sc; 1sc into next sc; 10ch, skip 5sc on working petal, skip 5sc on next petal, 1sc into next sc; [(2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog, 3ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog into next 4ch sp); skip 4sc, 1sc into next sc, 10ch, skip 5sc on working petal, skip 5sc on next petal, 1sc into next sc] x3. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 9: Join yarn in any 3ch sp (corner); 3ch (counts as 1dc) (2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same 3ch sp); 2dc into next 2ch sp; 2dc into next sp between sts; (hold ch to the front of your work, work 1dc into sc behind ch; hold ch to the back of your work, work 1dc into sc in front of chain.) x5 (10dc); 2dc into next sp between sts, 2dc into 2ch sp; [(3dc, 3ch, 3dc into 3ch sp); 2dc into 2ch sp, 2dc into next sp between sts; (hold ch to the front of your work, work 1dc into sc behind ch; hold ch
to the back of your work, work 1dc into sc in front of chain.) x5
(10dc); 2dc into next sp between sts, 2dc into 2ch sp] x3. sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Crochet BORDER ROWS 1 AND 2 around square.
****************
A special thank you once again to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE for the time and effort put into testing the Umtentweni Square.
PS: The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure. The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group
Hello lovely CAL-ers! At "surprise" intervals during this CAL I will be posting bonus squares.
These squares are not part of the original layout and will therefore not follow the number sequence of the CAL squares, but will be numbered as Bonus Squares.
They can be used to grow your blanket or swap out with squares that you may not be "in love" with.
Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:
INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR
Please take a moment to read the above posts, if you have not already done so in order to prepare yourself for our Crochet-a-long journey.
A big thank you goes out to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES & MORE for testing this pattern on such short notice!
AMANZIMTOTI SQUARE PATTERN
PATTERN TERMS: US
SPECIAL STITCHES:
Popcorn Stitch - A Popcorn is made by crocheting 4dc then removing the hook from the last loop, inserting the hook front to back on the first dc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull th
Triple Treble Crochet (trtrc)
Crossover trtrc group = 1tr into 3ch sp, bring your working yarn to the front of your work as we will be working over stitches made in previous rounds, yoh4, insert hook into left side 6ch loop, pull loop through and complete stitch, (1trc, 3ch, 1trc into 3ch sp), yoh4, insert hook into right side 6ch loop, pull loop through and complete stitch, 1trc into 3ch sp. If you have never done this before it may take a couple of tries before you get it right - it is very tricky on the fingers. I find it easier if I fold the motif along the stitches I am working into.
Foundation: 4ch sl st to form ring or make a magic ring.
Round 1: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into ring, 2ch; (2dc into ring, 2ch) x7 (8 x 2dc, 2ch). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 2: Join yarn in any 2ch sp; [3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc - form popcorn, 4ch], (1 x popcorn into next 2ch sp, 4ch) x7 (8 x popcorn, 4ch). Sl st into top of first popcorn to close. Break off yarn.
Round 3: Join yarn in any 4ch sp; 3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same 4ch sp, 1ch; (5dc into next 4ch sp, 1ch) x7 (8 x 5dc groupings, 1ch). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 4: Join yarn in any1st dc of any 5dc grouping. 3ch, 1dc into same dc as join, 1dc into each of next 3dc, (1dc, 3ch, sl st into next dc), sl st into 1st dc on next 5c grouping; [3ch, 1dc into same dc as join, 1dc into each of next 3dc, (1dc, 3ch, sl st into next dc), sl st into 1st dc on next 5dc grouping] x7 (8 petals). Break off yarn.
Round 5: Join yarn in first dc of any petal. 2ch, 4dc tog over next 4dc (counts as 5dc tog), 6ch, sc into 2nd sl st in Round 4, 6ch (5dc tog over 5dc in next petal, 6ch, sc into 2nd sl st in Round 4, 6ch) x7. sl st into top of first dc to close. Break off yarn.
Round 6: Join yarn in 6ch loop to the left of any petal. 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 3hdc in same 6ch loop, 1ch, 4hdc in next 6ch loop, 1ch; [(2hdc, 3dc in next 6ch loop, 3ch); (3dc, 2hdc in next 6ch loop, 1ch) (4hdc in next 6ch loop, 1ch) x2] x 3; (2hdc, 3dc in next 6ch loop, 3ch); (3dc, 2hdc in next 6ch loop, 1ch. sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn
Round 7: Join yarn in any 3ch space; 1 crossover trtrc group (4ch counts as first trtrc), skip next st; 1dc into each of next 4sts; 1trc into top of 5dc tog in Round 5; skip next st; 1dc into each of next 3sts; 1trc in each of next 2 6ch loops, skip next st, 1dc into each of next 3sts, 1trc into top of 5dc tog in Round 5. skip 1 st. 1dc into each of next 4sts; [1crossover trtrc group into 3ch sp; skip next st; 1dc into each of next 4sts; 1trc into top of 5dc tog in Round 5; skip next st; 1dc into each of next 3sts; 1trc in each of next 2 6ch loops, skip next st, 1dc into each of next 3sts, 1trc into top of 5dc tog in Round 5. skip 1 st. 1dc into each of next 4sts] x3. Sl st into 4th of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
PS: The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure. The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group
The squares for the SEASIDE WINTER BLANKET went through quite an evolution. A lot of frogging and pulling back was done before they starting looking like parts of a whole rather than just a collection of odd squares. The bits and pieces of yarn that result from this are thrown into a little basket I keep next to my chair.
Every evening I do a quick little tidy up before calling it a day. The little scraps are wound together to make what I call "MAGIC YARN". Lately I have been dividing the yarn into two spectrums - red, orange, yellow in one and green, blue and purple in the other (neutrals are shared out between the two spectrums).
I love making these MAGIC BLANKETS.
The row after row of double crochet stripes makes for very therapeutic crocheting. Perfect as a take-along project or something to calm the heart and mind during times of stress or grief!
The superchunky yarn (16ply) and 8.00mm hook give you a cuddly, thick and warm fabric, which makes a wonderful COMFORT BLANKET
Because the yarn is knotted together there are no pesky ends to work in besides the start and finish ends of the blanket and the start and finish edges of the border. These blankets are fairly robust too - which makes them a good "charity" blanket - either for baby blankets or lapghans for the elderly.
Add an extra bit of "love" to the blanket with a few RUFFLE FLOWERS!
The little balls of magic yarn have already started growing again and I intend to use the next batch to make some beanies and scarves for charity.
What do you do with your scraps / leftover yarn? Please post photos of your scrap / stashbuster projects on my Zooty Owl Facebook Page!
I had best get back to work now - finalizing the "bonus" square and the "Umtentweni" Square for the Seaside Winter Blanket CAL!
Happy hooking until we meet again!
