Zooty Owl's Crafty Blog

Colourful Crochet, Craft, Cooking, and Contemplations

Showing posts with label crochet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crochet. Show all posts

Monday 1 September 2014

The Road Trip Scarf: Getting Started


A few crocheters seem to be having a bit of difficulty with the triangle concept for the ROAD TRIP SCARF – so this version is written with more detailed explanations on how to start, getting from row to row, and some useful notes, etc, so that EVERYBODY on the planet can have a Road Trip Scarf!!!

The pattern as written (over 34 rows) is designed to be worked in a 100% acrylic variegated yarn (100g / 300m) in DK (8ply /light worsted weight).   However, the stitch composition is very uncomplicated - making the pattern suitable for both variegated and solid colour yarns!

Various yarn blends also work well with this pattern – 100% merino (wool), acrylic/wool blends and “soft” cottons.

Thinner yarns may be used – just keep repeating the pattern row (Row 3) until you reach the required size.     Always make sure you end on an even number of rows before starting your edging!

Thicker yarns may also be used, although I would not recommend using anything heavier than Aran (10ply / worsted weight), unless you are going to make the scarf substantially bigger.

The scarf is worked seamlessly (in one piece) as a single triangle from the top to the bottom - your first row being the top of the shawl which will lie at the base of your throat, and the last row which will drape over your chest.


Notes:

Right Side / Wrong Side:     We will talk about every odd row as the right side (eg, rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 etc are the right side);    and every even row as the wrong side (eg, rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 etc)

Side Increases are made at the beginning AND end of every row.   The increase of 2dc at the beginning of a row is made into the 1ch space at the end of the previous row.    The increase of 2dc at the end of the row is made into the 4ch loop which is formed at the start of the previous row (you will note that at the beginning of a row I say that the 4ch counts as 1dc, 1ch, so this  is not "seen" as a 4ch loop when working the next row but as a 1ch space and then 1dc at the very end of the row - when writing the pattern I will NOT say to crochet into the 4ch loop at the end of the row - I DO say to crochet into the 1ch space at the end of the row   

The Point (or corner) is formed in your very first row (2dc, 3ch, 2dc).     Throughout the shawl you will work 1dc, 3ch, 1dc into the 3ch space from the previous row.

If your increases are correct you WILL have a perfect triangle.    If the triangle pulls outward - you are increasing too much.   If the triangle pulls inward (like a kite) you are increasing too little.


Stitches:   We are using two basic stitches only for the scarf - chain (ch) and double crochet (dc) (US terms);      UK CROCHETERS will be using a treble and not a double crochet.

Rows 4 - 32:  Repeat Row 3
(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the highlighted area for the next 28 Rows)

ROAD TRIP SCARF PATTERN 

SIZE:  106cm Wide;   48cm long

Foundation:   6ch
Row 1:     Into first chain (the 6th chain from your hook) [crochet 2dc, 3ch, 2dc ( this forms the point of your shawl);  now also crochet 1ch, 1dc into the same place]

road trip scarf


road trip scarf


(turn your work so that you are now working along the "wrong side")

road trip scarf

Row 2:
Working up the right side of the triangle 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch); 2dc into 1ch sp,  1ch;


skip 1dc, 1dc into next dc, 1ch;



1dc, 3ch, 1dc into 3ch sp (point), 


Working down the left side of the triangle 1ch; 1dc into next dc, 


1ch, skip 1dc; 2dc, 1ch, 1dc into space at the end of the row;   


(turn your work so that you are now working along the "right side")

Row 3:  Working up the right hand side of the the triangle 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch);   2dc into 1ch sp, 1ch;   skip 1dc;   (1dc into next dc, 1ch) repeat to point (this means that you crochet one dc into each dc from the previous row with a 1ch sp in between each dc) 


Into the three chain space which forms the point crochet (1dc, 3ch, 1dc);


Working down the left hand side of the triangle (1ch, 1dc into next dc)  


repeat to 2nd last dc,


skip last dc, 1ch 2dc, ch,1dc into space at the end of the row



Rows 4 - 32:  Repeat Row 3
(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the highlighted area for the next 29 Rows

I am busy working on a detailed tutorial for the EDGING as well - there is, however a video in the original blog post showing how to do the second row. 

I have also posted the video on my Zooty Owl Facebook page - for those whose browsers cannot load the video from the blog post!

The print friendly version of the pattern can be found HERE

**********************************************************************

In 2014 when I created my Road Trip scarf I had no idea that it would be so ridiculously popular. I had a lot of requests for a longer scarf along similar lines. I finally got around to it - the result is a long “baktus style” scarf with two possible edgings. Either a frilly edge for a whimsical look or a zig-zag bobble edging. (The original Road Trip Scarf edging and trims would also work well with this design) 




The Day Trip Scarf differs from the Road Trip Scarf in that it increases steadily in length and gradually in width, whereas the Road Trip Scarf increases evenly in length and width. 


The pattern for the Day Trip Scarf is available in my RAVELRY STORE

Friday 22 August 2014

Happy Days CAL (4): Solid Granny Square

Welcome to Part 4 of our Happy Days Blanket Crochet Along! 

It is not too late to join in the fun!     The patterns will remain on my blog - so you can crochet along at your own pace.      

Here are the links so far:

PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square) (where you will find all the necessary info about this project);
  
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square)

and

Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square) 

So far we have made:
4 Hakuna Matata Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 Sunny Flower Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
4 Tic-Tac-Toe Squares (28cm x 28cm each)

 

Some colourful photos sent to me by a few of the lovely CAL ladies!

 

This weeks square is my version of a solid granny square.

We will be making 10 of these 14cm x 14 cm squares.

SOLID GRANNY SQUARE PATTERN 

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% acrylic 

HOOK:  5.00mm

SIZE:  14cm x 14cm

PATTERN TERMS:   US

I will include this conversion chart with each pattern to make it easier for those using UK terms


crochet terms conversion chart


Foundation:  4ch,  sl sl into 1st ch to form circle OR make a magic circle

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc) ;  11 dc into circle;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc)


Row 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same place as sl st;   [1dc into each of next 2dc;   (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into next dc] x 3;  1dc into each of next 2dc;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 3:  Join yarn in top of any dc;   3ch (counts as 1dc);   [1dc into each dc;   (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into corner 3ch sp] repeat until you are back at the start;   sl st into 3rd ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Rows 4 and 5:  Repeat the instructions for Row 3.

Row 6:  Join yarn in top of any dc;   1ch (counts as 1sc);   [1sc into each dc;   (2sc, 2ch, 2sc) into corner 3ch sp] repeat until you are back at the start;   sl st into 1ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 7:  Join yarn in top of any sc;   1ch (counts as 1sc);   [1sc into each sc;   (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into corner 2ch sp] repeat until you are back at the start;   sl st into 1ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.


Join the Solid Granny Squares to the Sunny Flower Squares using the VISIBLE JOIN METHOD to make bigger squares (28cm x 28cm = 2 Solid Granny Squares and 2 Sunny Flower Squares).



*******

I was going to do the Saturday Morning Square this week - but thought it would be fun to rather start joining the smaller squares.

The pattern for the next square will be posted on Friday, 5 September 2014.


Please post the photos of your progress on my Zooty Owl Facebook page so that I can share them with my next post!

Happy crocheting!

(Part 5 of the CAL - Popcorn Flower & Leaves Square can be found HERE)

Monday 18 August 2014

World Wide Artist Blog Hop


I was invited to join in on the World Wide Artist Blog Hop by the multi-talented Andrea of Kokopelli Design (http://kokopellidesign.blogspot.com/2014/08/worldwide-artist-blog-hop-and-four.html) - thank you for thinking of me Andrea!

Artists around the world post answers to 4 questions on their blogs and link to 3 (a minimum of 1) artists who post their answers the following Monday and so it continues..! 

The blog post looks like this:

 • Link/ intro to the person/blog who invited them on the blog-hop.
 • Answers to these 4 questions:

1. Why do I do what I do?
2. How does my work differ from others of its genre?
3. How does my creative process work?
4. What am I working on now? 

And finally the links to the artists of your choice who will post their answers the following Monday.
These are some of the other bloggers who have participated in the blog-hop: http://lovingrd.wordpress.com/ http://www.kimwerker.com/2014/06/02/around-world-blog-hop/ http://carinascraftblog.wardi.dk/2014/06/around-world-blog-hop.html http://pagesintime.blogspot.com/2014/06/blog-hop-last-week-i-received-email.html http://inthehillsofnorthcarolina.blogspot.com/2014/06/blog-hop.html

WHY DO I DO WHAT I DO? 

Because I love it!     I love colour!    I love "making" things!   Even my very earliest memories revolve around crayons, paint, paper and yarn!   Creating is like breathing - something I do without thinking, but without which I would not be able to LIVE! 


crochet mandala

HOW DOES MY WORK DIFFER FROM OTHERS OF IT'S GENRE?

To say my work is unique or set apart from other work in the same genre seems a bit pretentious!    My work may be a bit different in that I do not work with a set number of colours only.   My yarn stash is more built on colour variety than type of yarn!   The only colour I do not work with is black.    I also don't worry much about trends!     I create what I FEEL!

granny square jacket

HOW DOES MY CREATIVE PROCESS WORK? 

Sometimes I wake up with an idea in my head or I see something that inspires me (colours, pictures, flowers etc).   If I cannot start crocheting or crafting immediately, I do a quick sketch and make some notes in my ideas book.    

The inspiration for THE "PACHA" PONCHO came from a Dutch design site.    It took on a personality of its own and ended up looking like Pacha's Poncho (the big guy from Disney's The Emperor's New Groove) and not even remotely similar to the original inspiration!

crochet poncho

Often when I start working on a project, more ideas seem to flow - I will also jot these down in my ideas book.

While I was making the DAISY CENTRE MANDALA, I had the idea to turn it into a SQUARE and make an afghan!


crochet mandala



mandala squares

Sometimes I am too tired to crochet or craft and I will just sit at my desk and draw and colour little doodles - a lot of my colour combinations flow from this.  The Starflower Doodle was the inspiration for the Starflower Mandala


crochet mandala

I am a "neat freak", and have a bit of an aversion to storing "scraps".  When I have crafted myself into a literal corner, and I am surrounded by half balls of yarn or mounds of cut paper,  I will have a quick tidy up and spend a bit of time "thinking" what I can make (anything not to have to hoard the scraps).


granny square afghan

WHAT AM I WORKING ON NOW? 

I have been on a serious WIP and Stash Busting mission since the beginning of July!     Part of this plan is to finish writing all my incomplete patterns.

The pattern for my SUNFLOWER MANDALA has been completed and posted on Ravelry


crochet mandala

I am also holding a crochet along on my blog for a HAPPY DAYS BLANKET, with a different square every two weeks


crochet squares

I invited the following artists to join the Worldwide Blog Hop:

Dedri Uys of LOOK WHAT I MADE

Julia Gartner of  DADA NEON CROCHET

The Roxi Slouchy Beanie: Pattern

Last Tuesday, instead of paying attention to the piles of WIP's lying on my table, I was determined to make something with a rather ugly ball of variegated yarn that had been driving me insane for a few days! 

I had tried it with so many different patterns, and no matter what I did, it was just too ugly to look at!

After multiple froggings I decided to mix the variegated with a solid red yarn and attempt to make a slouchy beanie. 

My beautiful youngest daughter modelling her slouchy beanie:

slouchy beanie 

I made another one mixing the variegated yarn with a solid cream for my other beautiful daughter, Dani. 

slouchy beanie 

I used a bit of the variegated yarn making two HIBISCUS BLOOMS to decorate the beanies (if I had not done this I probably would have managed to make both from 100g of the variegated yarn)

"THE ROXI SLOUCHY" PATTERN

Pattern Terms:
My patterns are all written in US terms - I have included this little chart to make it easier for my UK readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.
 


Materials:   
50g - 60g of variegated DK plus 50g - 60g of solid DK

DK (8ply) is equivalent to US Light Worsted Weight yarn.  Working with a double strand of DK (8ply) gives you a 16ply yarn (Super Bulky).

Hook Sizes:  9.00mm;  8.00mm and 6.00mm

Size:   Medium Adult 

Using a 9.00mm hook:

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to form circle OR make a magic circle 

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 11 dc into circle (12 dc), sl st into top of 3ch to join


Row 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into each of next 11dc (24dc), sl st into top of 3ch at start to join

Row 3:  3ch (counts as 1 dc), 1dc into next dc;  2dc into next dc;  (1dc into each of next 2dc;   2dc into next dc) x7, sl st into top of 3ch at start to join (32 dc) 

Row 4:  3ch (counts as 1 dc), 1dc into each of next 2dc;  2dc into next dc, (1dc into each of next 3dc, 2dc into next dc) x7, sl st into top of 3ch at start to join (40dc) 

Row 5:  3ch (counts as 1 dc), 1dc into each of next 3dc;  2dc into next dc, (1dc into each of next 4dc, 2dc into next dc) x7, sl st into top of 3ch at start to join (48dc)

Row 6 3ch (counts as 1 dc), 1dc into each of next 4dc;  2dc into next dc, (1dc into each of next 5dc, 2dc into next dc) x7, sl st into top of 3ch at start to join (56dc)

At this point the diameter of the circle is 21cm

Row 7 3ch (counts as 1 dc), 1dc into same dc as join ("v" formed),  skip next dc;   [2dc into next dc ("v" formed), skip next dc] all around, sl st into top of 3ch at start to join

Row 8 sl st into space between 2dc of 1st "v", 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc into same space ("v" formed), (2hdc into space between 2dc ("v" formed) of next "v"), all around sl st into top of 3ch at start to join 

Row 9 sl st into space between 2dc of 1st "v", 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same space ("v" formed), (2dc into space between 2dc of next "v"), all around sl st into top of 3ch at start to join

Rows 10 - 21 - Work as follows:

Rows 10; 12; 14; 16; 18 and 20 repeat Row 8

Rows 11; 13; 15; 17; 19 and 21 repeat Row 9

The length from the bottom of Row 7 to the top of Row 21 should be 20cm 

The length from the crown of the beanie to the top of Row 21 should be 28cm 

Switch to using a 8.00mm hook:

Row 22:   1ch (counts as 1sc); 1sc into each space between dc; sl st into 1ch at start to join; 

Rows 23 - 24:  1ch (counts as 1sc);  1sc into each sc;   sl st into 1ch at start to join;   Break off yarn. 

EDGING:
Using only 1 strand of yarn (I used the solid colour) and a 6.00mm hook join yarn with a sl st in any sc; 2ch;  (sl st into next sc;   2ch) repeat around ending with a sl st into start sl st to join.   Break off yarn.

Friday 18 July 2014

Bougainvillea Doily Pattern

This is a little adaptation of a DESIGN I did a while back - I was going to scrap the pattern altogether as it just was not working for me - but then inspiration struck.    I changed a few rows, made it a bit smaller and VOILA!! 

Although I used DK cottons for all the doilies the different brands differ quite a bit in thickness - so adjust your hook size to suit your yarn.


********
Materials:  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK
Hook Size:  4.00mm
Size:   29cm in Diameter


crochet doily


********
Materials:  Strawberries & Cream Cotton DK
Hook Size:  4.50mm
Size:   33cm in Diameter
 
crochet doily


********
Materials:  Strawberries & Cream Cotton DK
Hook Size:  4.50mm
Size:   33cm in Diameter


crochet doily


********
Materials:  Coffee Cotton DK
Hook Size:  4.00mm
Size:   27cm in Diameter



********
Materials:  Coffee Cotton DK
Hook Size:  4.00mm
Size:   27cm in Diameter

crochet doily


********
Special thanks to Erica Liebenberg for testing this pattern for me (with absolute lightening speed!!!) - As you can see kitty cat was quite impressed with the yarny goings on!


********
Pattern Terms:
My patterns are all written in US terms

I have included this little chart to make it easier for my UK readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.


pattern terms conversion chart

Foundation:   4ch, sl st into first chain to form a circle OR make a magic ring 

Row 1:  4ch into same place as sl st (counts as 1dc, 1ch);  (1dc; 1ch into circle) x 11, sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (12 x 1dc; 1ch groups)

crochet doily

Row 2:  Join yarn in any 1ch sp;  6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch);  (1dc into next 1ch sp, 3ch) x 11,  sl st into 3rd of 6ch at start to close.

crochet doily

Row 3:  Join yarn in any 3ch space;  2ch, 3dc (4dc cluster) 6ch;  (4dc cluster into next 3ch space, 6ch) x 11;   sl st into top of 1st cluster to close.

Note:  a 4dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving last loops on your hook, repeat this 3 times more (five loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster

crochet doily

Row 4:  Join yarn in any 6ch space; 1ch (counts as 1sc);  [12 dc into next 6ch sp (12dc group);   1sc into next 6ch sp] x5;  12dc into last 6ch space;  sl st into 1 ch at start to close.

crochet doily

Row 5:   Join yarn into top of 2nd dc on any 12dc group;  4ch in same sp as join (counts as 1dc, 1ch);  1dc, 1ch into each of next 9dc (10dc group);  (1dc into 2nd dc on next 12dc group, 1ch;   1dc, 1ch into each of next 9dc) x 5;  sl st into 3rd of 4ch at start to close. 

crochet doily

Row 6:  Join yarn into top of 2nd dc on any 10dc group;  5ch in same sp as join (counts as 1dc, 2ch);  1dc, 2ch into each of next 7dc (8dc group);  (1dc into 2nd dc on next 10dc group, 2ch;  1dc, 2ch into each of next 7dc) x 5;  sl st into 3rd of 5ch at start to close.

crochet doily

Row 7:  Join yarn in first 2 ch sp of 8dc group,  5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch),  1sc, 4ch into each of next six 2ch spaces (6 loop grouping);   (1sc, 4ch into first 2ch sp of 8dc group;  1sc, 4ch into each of next six 2ch spaces)  x 5;   sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.

crochet doily

Row 8:  Join yarn in first 4ch space of any 6 loop grouping;  5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch); 1sc, 4ch into each of next four spaces; 1sc into next 4ch sp,  (5 loop grouping) 6ch; [1sc into first 4ch space on next 6 loop grouping, 4ch;   1sc, 4ch into each of next four 4ch sps; 1sc into next 4ch sp,  (5 loop grouping) 6ch] x 5;  sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.

crochet doily

Row 9:   Join yarn in first 4ch space of any 5 loop grouping;  5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  1sc, 4ch into each of next three 4ch sps;  1sc into next 4ch space (4 loop grouping), 1ch;  [into 6ch space between loop groupings work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3; 2dc cluster, 1ch;  1sc into first 4ch space of next 5 loop grouping,  4ch;  1sc, 4ch into each of next three 4ch sps;  1sc into next 4ch space (4 loop grouping), 1ch] x 5;  into last 6ch space between groupings work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3; 2dc cluster, 1ch;   sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close;

Note:  a 2dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook, repeat this once more (three loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster

crochet doily

Row 10:  Join yarn in first 4ch of any 4 loop grouping;  5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  1sc, 4ch into each of next two 4ch spaces; 1sc into next 4ch space (3 loop grouping), 1ch;  [into 2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster, 2ch;  into 2ch sp between 2nd and 3rd 2dc cluster work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3;  into 2ch sp between 3rd and 4th 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster, 1 ch;   1sc into first 4ch of 4 loop grouping, 4ch;  1sc, 4ch into each of next two 4ch spaces; 1sc into next 4ch sp (3 loop grouping), 1ch] x5;   into 2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster 2ch;  into 2ch sp between 2nd and 3rd 2dc cluster work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3;  into 2ch sp between 3rd and 4th 2dc clusters work 1 2dc cluster, 1 ch, sl st into 1st of 5ch a start to close.

crochet doily

Row 11:  Join yarn in first 4ch of any 3 loop grouping,  5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  1sc into next 4ch space, 4ch;  1sc into next 4ch space (2 loop grouping), 1ch [into 2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work 1 x 2dc cluster, 2ch;  (2dc cluster, 2ch, 2dc cluster, 2ch into next  space between 2dc clusters) x2;  2dc cluster in next space between clusters, 1ch;  (1sc in next 4ch space, 4ch) x2;  1ch] x 5;  into 2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work 1 x 2dc cluster, 2ch;  (2dc cluster, 2ch, 2dc, 2ch cluster into next  space between 2dc clusters) x2;  2dc cluster in next space between clusters; 1ch;  sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close

crochet doily

(I did not have a problem with the Raeesah Cotton Soft but the Strawberries & Cream and the Coffee Cotton started to "pucker" a bit at this point - a puff of steam after each completed row sorted this out nicely though!)


Row 12:  Join yarn in 1ch sp before close sl st on Row 11;  3ch (counts as 1dc) in same 1ch sp as join;   5dc into  next two 4ch spaces;   1dc into next 1ch sp;   3hdc into 1st sp between clusters;  3sc into each of next 3 spaces between clusters;  3hdc into next space between clusters;   (1dc in next1ch sp;   5dc into  next 2 4ch spaces;   1dc into next 1ch sp;   3hdc into 1st sp between clusters;  3sc into each of next 3 spaces between clusters;  3hdc into next space between clusters) repeat to end;  sl st into 3rd of 3ch at start to close 


crochet doily


Row 13:  Join yarn in same place as close sl st:   3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same place as join;   1dc into each of next 10dc;  2dc into next dc;  skip 3hdc;  2hdc into each of next 3sc;  skip 3sc;  2hdc into each of next 3sc, skip 3hdc;   (2dc into next dc;  1dc into each of next 10dc;  2dc into next dc;  skip 3hdc;   2hdc into each of next 3sc;  skip 3sc;  2hdc into each of next 3sc, skip 3hdc)

crochet doily

Row 14 (edging):   join yarn with a sl st in any stitch,  1ch, sl st in next stitch, repeat to end

crochet doily