Seaside Winter Blanket: Ramsgate Square 3

Hello and welcome to Part 3 of our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL!

I am delighted that so many lovely people have joined our little Crochet-a-long and are sharing their fabulous creations!  It's is not too late to join in!   Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

I have provided explanations and links for the special stitches, but other than that, Ramsgate is a fairly straightforward square.  

This week we will be making the "Ramsgate" Square:

RAMSGATE  SQUARE PATTERN:

Make 1 x Ramsgate Square for the Baby Blanket
Make 2 x Ramsgate Square for the Lapghan

Some of the squares in this CAL may need blocking.   For good measure I am blocking all my squares, even the ones that are perfectly flat and square.    With "cold" blocking your squares won't spoil.  I have been spraying cold water onto the squares one by one as I place them onto the blocking station. I don't think that drenching them is a good idea and I would also never use hot water.

Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, previous patterns and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:

INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW  and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR

PATTERN TERMS:  US

SPECIAL STITCHES:

2dc cluster (2dc tog) =  2dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook (do not complete the stitch), repeat this once more (three loops on hook).  Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster.

4dc cluster (4dc tog) =  4dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook (do not complete the stitch), repeat this 3x more (five loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster.

Picot = (A picot is a loop of thread created for functional or ornamental purposes along the edge of lace, ribbon, crocheted, knitted or tatted material. These loops vary in size, according to their intended function and to their creator's artistic intention. The word picot is pronounced [pē' kō]. It is a diminutive derived from the French verb piquer, meaning 'to prick'.)  A picot is formed by crocheting 3ch and then sl st into the 3rd ch from hook (the first of the three ch in other words)

Ssc = Standing Single Crochet

BPdc = Back Post Double Crochet (see Scottburgh Square for explanation)

************

Foundation:  4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.

Round 1:  3 ch (counts as 1dc), 11dc into ring; sl st into 3rd of start ch to close  (12dc).   Break off yarn.

Round 2::  Join yarn in top of any dc,  2ch 1dc (counts as 2dc cluster) 1ch;   (2dc cluster into top of next dc, 1ch) x11 (12 x 2dc clusters).    Sl st into top of 1st cluster to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 3:  Join yarn in any 1ch sp, 3ch (counts as 1dc), picot, 1dc into same 1ch sp, 1ch;   (1dc, picot, 1dc into next 1ch sp, 1ch) x11.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn

Round 4:   Join yarn in any 1ch sp;  2ch, 3dc tog (counts as 4dc cluster), 4ch;   (4dc cluster into next 1ch sp, 4ch) x11.   Sl st into top of first cluster to close.  (12 x 4dc cluster, 4ch).   Break off yarn.

Round 5:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp;   2ch (counts as 1hdc), 5hdc into same sp;  6hdc into next 4ch sp;  (3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 4ch sp);  [(6hdc into next 4ch sp) x2;  (3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 4ch sp)] x3.   Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 6:  Join yarn in any 3ch (corner) sp;  2ch, 3dc tog (counts as 4dc cluster), 3ch, 4dc cluster into same sp;  [BPdc around each of next 18sts;   (4dc cluster, 3ch, 4dc cluster into 3ch sp)] x3;  BPdc around each of next 18sts;   sl st into top of start cluster to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 7:   Join yarn with a Ssc in any 3ch sp;  4sc into same 3ch sp;  skip 4dc cluster; 1sc into each of next 18 sts;  skip 4dc cluster;   (5sc into 3ch sp, skip 4dc cluster, 1sc into each of next 18 sts, skip 4dc cluster) x3.  Sl st into top of Ssc to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 8:  Join yarn in 1st of corner 5sc;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next sc; (1dc, 3ch, 1dc into next sc), 1dc into next 2sc;  1dc into each of next 18sc;  [1dc into each of next 2sc;  (1dc, 3ch, 1dc into next sc);  1dc into each of next 18sts] x3.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Crochet BORDER ROWS 1 AND 2 around square.

****************

A special thank you once again to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE for the time and effort put into testing the Ramsgate Square.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Seaside Winter Blanket: Scottburgh Square 2

Hello and welcome to Part 2 of our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL!

How wonderful to have so many crochet along friends from previous CAL's joining in.   A warm welcome to you and to those of you who are joining a Zooty Owl CAL for the first time!

It's is not too late to join in!   Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

One of our lovely CAL friends sent me the following message:   "I googled crochet blanket photos for the perfect colours for my blanket.    Your point on colour placement is true.  Umzumbe got frogged about four times before I was happy.   It makes me irritated that all that work is for nothing.  Is there something you can teach me to avoid this?".

COLOUR PLACEMENT is very important and can make or break the visual effect you are trying to achieve.  I have not yet found a foolproof method to select which colour I will use for each round.     There is no right and wrong placement - what is visually pleasing to one may not be pleasing to another.   My colour placement is also sometimes not spot on first time around.   Feeling that I have wasted my time also drives me to distraction.    TIP:  when you purchase your yarn also buy a ball of each colour (or as close as possible) from a budget range.   The budget yarns are usually quite robust and make for great picnic / travel / charity blankets or yarn tote bags.   First try the placement you want with the budget yarn.    Instead of frogging the square if you are not entirely happy with the placement put it aside.   After a few projects you will have enough of these squares to make something worthwhile!

A special thank you to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES & MORE  for skillfully and efficiently testing the Scottburgh Square!

 
SCOTTBURGH SQUARE PATTERN:

The Scottburgh Square will curl because we have used the overlay technique, and will have to be BLOCKED.  (This YouTube video is easy to follow and explains the blocking technique rather well.)   Google "blocking crochet" and a number of how-to's will pop up.    I recently purchased a wooden blocking board to block my work, but as you will see in the video there are items around the house that can be used for blocking.

Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts and other useful CAL information are contained in these two posts: INTRODUCTION and YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW

Make 1 x Scottburgh Square for the Baby Blanket
Make 2 x Scottburgh Square for the Lapghan

PATTERN TERMS:   US

SPECIAL STITCHES:

2hdc tog = yoh 1, insert hook through stitch, pull through a loop but do not complete the stitch;  yoh 1, insert hook through stitch, pull through a loop and complete both stitches.

Crossover trc = Bring your working yarn to the front of your work as we will be working over stitches made in previous rounds, yoh2, insert hook into front loop of corresponding 3rd hdc in round 1, pull loop through and complete stitch,   yoh2, insert hook into front loop of corresponding 1st hdc in round 1, pull loop through and complete stitch.    If you have never done this before it may take a couple of tries before you get it right - it is very tricky on the fingers.   I find it easier if I fold the motif along the stitches I am working into.

(Note:  If you can't manage the Crossover trc stitch don't worry - work 1 trc into corresponding 1st hdc in round 1; and 1 trc into corresponding 3rd hdc in round 1 - the crossover is merely an added design feature and does not affect further rounds)

BPdc = BACK POST DOUBLE CROCHET

Foundation:   3ch, sl st into 1st ch to close OR make a magic circle

Round 1: 2ch, 11hdc into circle, sl st into top of start 2ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 2:  Working in back loops only join yarn in any hdc;  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc into each of next 2hdc, 9ch (1hdc into each of next 3hdc, 9ch) x3;   sl st into top of start 2ch to close.  Break of yarn.

Round 3:  Using the same colour as in Round 2, join yarn in any 9ch sp; [2ch (counts as 1hdc),  (2hdc, 1ch, 5dc, 2ch, 5dc, 1ch, 3hdc) into same 9ch sp;  [skip 1hdc, sl st into next hdc (3hdc, 1ch, 5dc, 2ch, 5dc, 1ch, 3hdc) into next 9ch sp] x3;  sl st into start sl st to close (four "petals");   break off yarn.

Round 4:  Using the same colour as in Round 1, join yarn in any 2ch sp (top of petal);  1ch, 1hdc (counts as 2hdc tog), 3ch, 2hdc tog in same sp;  5ch, 3hdc into 1ch sp;  1ch,  Crossover trc into front loop of  corresponding 3rd and 1st hdc in Round 1;  [1ch, 3hdc into next 1ch sp;  5ch,  (2hdc tog, 3ch, 2hdc tog into next 2ch), 5ch, 3hdc into next 1ch sp, 1ch, Crossover trc into front loop of corresponding 3rd and 1st hdc in Round 1] x3;  1ch, 3hdc into 1ch sp;  5ch, sl st into start 2hdc tog to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 5:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp (top of petal); [3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3trc, 3dc into same 3ch sp (corner grouping)]; {3ch, 1trc into each of next 2hdc, 1dtrc into each of next 2hdc;  1trc into each of next 2hdc;   3ch;  [3dc, 3trc, 3dc into next 3ch sp] (corner grouping)} x3;  3ch, 1trc into each of next 2hdc, 1dtrc into each of next 2hdc, 1trc into each of next 2dc, 3ch, sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 6:  Join yarn in 2nd trc of any corner grouping;  6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch), 1dc into same place as join;  1dc into each of next 4sts; [3dc into 3ch sp;  BPdc around each of next 6sts;  3dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 4sts, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc into next st);  1dc into each of next 4sts] x3;  3dc into 3ch sp;  BPdc around each of next 6sts;  3dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 4sts;  sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

*Note: Round 6 of the pattern does require Bpdc around the 6 long stitches in the middle, and the photo tutorial does not show these. The Bpdc adds interest to the square but does not affect the square structurally as you can see from my tutorial square. (I really must apologize - I had a splitting migraine for the past few days and suffered a bit of "brain fog" because  of it.   I actually made 12 new No 2 squares with out the Bpdc in this round, whereas the "original" No 2 square does show the Bpdc. Since the Bpdc in this Round is just a feature I am not going to remake my squares.- to me they are equally as pretty with or without this added design feature)

 

 

 

Round 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same sp;  1dc into each of next 22dc;  [(2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next 3ch sp);  1dc into each of next 22dc] x3

BORDER ROUNDS:
Note:   Work the following two rounds on each completed square in your background / border colour.   Final stitch counts may differ from pattern to pattern, so adjustments must be allowed for when joining.

Border Round 1:   Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp,  3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same sp,  1BPdc around each stitch to next 3ch corner;  (5dc into corner sp,  1BPdc around each stitch to next 3ch corner) x3,  sl st into 3rd of start chain to close.   Do not break off yarn.

Border Round 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next dc), 1dc into each st to corner;  [1dc into next 2dc, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next dc), 1dc into each st to corner] x3;  sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Block squares and join according to chosen layout.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Seaside Winter Blanket CAL: Umzumbe Square 1

Hello and welcome!

After weeks and weeks of designing and frogging and preparing......... the big day has finally arrived!!!

Our Seaside Winter Blanket journey officially begins today with the "Umzumbe Square"!

Note:   The final two rounds on the above squares are border rounds and will be crocheted around each of the squares.   The pattern for these two rows will be provided with Square 2.
 
Please have a read through the INTRODUCTION and YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW posts where you will find the information necessary to prepare you for the CAL.

A special thank you goes out to Ritha Vishwanath, who tested the pattern for me.  

Ritha is a very skilled crocheter who pattern tests for a number of designers.    Have a look at her beautiful work on her Facebook page HOOKS, NEEDLES & MORE
 
UMZUMBE SQUARE PATTERN:

YARN:   DK /8ply / light worsted weight 100% Acrylic. 
(Worsted weight, Aran, Afghan, 10 ply yarn would also work very well, using a 5.00mm hook - you would need slightly more yarn, and of course your blankets will be a fair bit larger than the sizes given for DK)

YARN QUANTITIES:
Baby blanket:  2500 metres (2730 yards) - approximately 10 x 100g balls
Lapghan:  3750 metres (4101 yards) - approximately 15 x 100g balls

HOOK: 4.00mm

SIZES:
Lapghan - 150cm x 150cm
Baby Blanket -  94cm x 113cm 

PATTERN TERMS:   US

Baby Blanket:   Make 2 x "Umzumbe" square
Lapghan:    Make 2 x "Umzumbe" square
 
Foundation:    3ch, sl st into 1st chain to close or make a MAGIC CIRCLE

Round 1:  6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch),   (3dc into circle, 3ch) x3;  2dc into circle, sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:  205 "Watermelon"

 
Round 2:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 7dc into same sp, 1ch;  (8dc into next 3ch sp, 1ch) x 3;   sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:  042 "Shell Pink"

 
Round 3:  Join yarn in any 1ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same sp;  skip 2dc, 1sc into each of next 4dc;  (skip 2dc, 3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 1ch sp;   skip 2dc, 1sc into each of next 4dc);  skip 2dc, sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:   076 "Fuschia"

 
Round 4:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same sp, 1dc into each of next 3dc, 5ch;   (skip 4sc;   1dc into each of next 3dc;  6dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3dc;  5ch) x3;  skip 4sc, 1dc into each of next 3dc, sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:  101 "Grape"

Round 5:  Join yarn in any 5ch sp;  3ch, 1trc into same sp (counts as 2trc tog);  2ch, 2trc tog, 3ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog;  [(skip 2dc, 1hdc into each of next 2dc, 4ch, skip 4dc; 1hdc into each of next 2dc,  skip 2dc);  (2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog, 3ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog)] x3;  skip 2dc, 1hdc into each of next 2dc, 4ch, skip 4dc, 1hdc into each of next 2dc, skip 2dc, sl st into 3rd of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Pullskein:   046 "Apricot"

Round 6:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc in same sp;  3dc into next 2ch sp;  2dc into next sp;  5dc into next 4ch sp;  2dc into next sp;  3dc into next 2ch sp;  (3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 3ch sp;  3dc into next 2ch sp;  2dc into next sp;  5dc into next 4ch sp;  2dc into next sp;  3dc into next 2ch sp), sl st into 3rd of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:  098 "Citrus"

Round 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc in same sp;  1dc into each dc to corner 3ch;   (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp,  1dc into each dc to next corner) x3;  sl st into 3rd of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:  048 "Stone"

Thank you for joining in.   Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Zooty Owl Trivets: Pattern

I have been messing around with the font style and size on my blog and for some unknown reason extra line spaces have started inserting themselves.    No matter what I do I just cannot seem to get rid of them.    So please excuse the weird spacing - I am trying to figure it out!    Blogger does seem to be misbehaving today - wrongs dates and all sorts of funnies!!

Whilst on my Autumn cleaning mission my ideas got a bit of a clear out too !

This was initially supposed to be a cushion (made from Chunky yarn), but after about six attempts at the gusset I gave it up as a bad job.    I was about to frog the idea altogether then I thought - HEY!!! -  Owl Trivets for my daughter's kitchen! Could work??

The Owl Body I had designed for the cushion was a "solid" circle.    Since I was a bit Mandala Crazy at the time of making these trivets I designed a Mandala Body for the Trivet

(I will add directions in the pattern for those who would rather use the "solid" version)

The feet and the beak on the first one were a bit of a production.   I was happier with the second trivet, which I made while writing out the pattern:

Made a third trivet for the photo tutorial - sewed the beak on really skew.   I was about to unpick it and re-attach it when my son said I must leave it - he reckons that is how I pull my mouth when I am unimpressed with something!!   (Apparently that was exactly what I WAS doing when I saw how skew the beak was!!)

and a fourth while running through the pattern with the testers:

Eleanor Thomson, who has a lovely blog called NELNANANDNORA, was one of the ladies kind enough to test this pattern for me (Thank you so much Eleanor!!).  Here is her Zooty Owl Trivet:

HANDMADE BY:   ELEANOR THOMSON

ZOOTY OWL TRIVET

PATTERN TERMS:   US

My patterns are all written in US terms - I have included this little chart to make it easier for my UK readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.

Skill Level:  Easy

Approximate Time:  3 hours

I would recommend any DK 100% cotton if this IS going to be used as a trivet (or in the kitchen) - if not, any yarn whatsoever can be used - from 2ply to t-shirt yarn (depending on what you would like to use it for!!)

Use whatever hook size suits your choice of yarn and your tension.

MANDALA VERSION: 

Yarn:  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK (100% cotton)

Hook Size:   4.00mm 

Size:  Top of head to foot = 30cm;   Mandala diameter = 23cm

BODY

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to form circle OR make a magic circle 

Row 1:  3 ch (counts as 1 dc), 11 dc into circle (12 dc), sl st into top of 3ch to join, break off yarn

Row 2:  join yarn in any dc; 3ch, 1dc into same place as join;  2dc into each of next 11dc  (12 x 2dc groupings = 24dc), sl st into top of 3ch at start to close, break off yarn.
  
Row 3:  Join yarn in sp bet any 2dc grouping;   3ch, 2dc in same sp as join; 3dc into each of next 11 sps bet 2dc groupings; sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (12 x 3dc groupings - 36dc);  break off yarn

Row 4:  Join yarn in sp between any 3dc grouping;   3ch 1dc, 2ch, 2dc into same space as join;  (2dc, 2ch, 2dc into each of next 11 spaces between 3dc groupings)  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 5:  Join yarn in 2ch sp in the middle of any grouping;   In same sp as join 3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc, 1ch, 3dc, 1ch;   (3dc, 1ch, 3dc into middle 2ch sp of next grouping; 1 ch) x 11;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 6:  Join yarn in any 1ch sp;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same sp as join, 1ch;  (3dc into next 1ch sp, 1ch) repeat to end;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 7:   Join yarn in 1ch sp between any 3dc grouping;   3ch 1dc, 2ch, 2dc into same space as join;  (2dc, 2ch, 2dc into next  space between 3dc groupings) repeat to end;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 8:  Join yarn in 2ch sp in the middle of any grouping;  in same sp as join 3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc, 1ch;   (4dc in 2ch sp in the middle of next grouping, 1ch) repeat to end;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 9:  Join yarn in sp bet any 4dc grouping;   in same sp as join 3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc, 1ch;   (4dc in next sp between groupings;  1ch) repeat to end;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 10:  Join yarn in 1ch sp between two 4dc groupings;  3ch (counts as 1dc) in same 1ch sp as join;  1dc into each of next 4dc;  (1dc into 1ch sp bet two 4dc groupings; 1dc into each of next 4dc) repeat to end;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.

HEAD

In same colour as Row 10;

Note:  Head worked over 37 stitches

Row 11:    4ch (counts as 1trc) in same sp as sl st;  1trc into each of next 6dc;   1dc into each of next 7 dc;  1hdc into each of next 4dc;  1 sc into next dc;  1hdc into each of next 4dc;  1dc into each of next 7dc;  1trc into each of next 7trc;   turn

Row 12:  4ch (counts as 1trc);  1trc into each of next 6trc;  1dc into each of next 7dc;  1hdc into each of next 4hdc; 1sc into sc; 1hdc into each of next 4hdc;  1dc into each of next 7dc;  1trc into each of next 7trc,  turn

Row 13 - 15:   Repeat Row 12

EYES 

MAKE 2

Foundation:  navy, black or dark brown yarn - 4ch, sl st into first chain to form a circle or make a magic circle.

Row 1:  2ch (counts as 1hdc) into same place as sl st;  9 hdc into circle;  sl st into top of 2ch at start to close (10hdc);  break of yarn.

Row 2:  blue or green - Join yarn in top of any hdc,  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc in same sp as join;  (2hdc into top of next hdc) x9, sl st into top of 2ch at start to close (10 x 2hdc groupings = 20hdc);   break off yarn.

Row 3:  white - Join yarn between any two 2hdc groupings;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same sp as join;  (3dc into each next space 2hdc groupings) x9;  (10 x 3dc groupings = 30dc);   sl st into top of 3ch at start;  break off yarn.

Row 4:  beige - Join yarn between any 3dc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc into same sp as join;  4dc into each sp between 3dc groupings;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 5:  grey - join yarn in any dc;  1ch, 1sc in same dc as join;  1sc into each dc;  sl st into 1ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 6:  (same colour as the last round of the Mandala Body) - join yarn in any sc; 1ch, 1sc in same sc as join;  1sc into each sc;   sl st into 1ch at start to close;   break off yarn leaving a long tail to work eyes on to head

BEAK

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to for circle OR make a magic circle 

Row 1:  3 ch (counts as 1 dc), 12 dc into circle (13 dc), sl st into top of 3ch to join

Row 2:  1ch, 1sc into same place as sl st; 1sc into each of next 3dc;  2hdc into next dc;  2dc into next dc;   (1dc, 1trc, 1dtrc, 1trc, 1dc) into next dc;  2dc into next dc;   2hdc into next dc, 1sc into next 4dc;  sl st into 1st sc to close

Row 3:  1ch, 1sc into same place as sl st;   1sc into each of next 3 stitches;  2sc into next st;  1sc into next st;  2sc into next st;  1sc into next 3 st;  (1sc, 1hdc, 1sc) in next st;    1sc in next 4st;  2sc into next st;  1sc into next st;  2sc into next st, 1sc into next 4st;   sl st into first sc to close.   Break off yarn.

Detail:  Rejoin yarn in a contrasting colour with a sl st.    sl st into each st around beak, break off yarn at last sl st.  

With a tapestry needle, pull the yarn through from front to back on the first ss, pull to tighten neatly. then thread the yarn through the back loops on the next few ss.   Weave in to secure.
  

FEET

5dc spikes worked into Row 9 as follows:

Right Foot is worked over a 4dc grouping and the space directly after the 4dc grouping
Left Foot is worked into the space directly before a 4dc grouping, and then over the 4dc grouping.

The centre of each foot will be worked in line with the centre of each eye

Row 1:  Join yarn to hook with a sl st;   Working on right side of work crochet standing dc into sp between 4dc groups on Row 9; 1ch;   (1dc spike into top of dc in four dc group on Row 9) x4

Turn (working on wrong side)

Row 2:  Ch 3, 3dc into first 1ch sp;   sl st into next 1ch sp,   4ch, 3trc into same sp as sl st;  sl st into next 1ch sp,  3ch, 3dc into same sp as sl st;   sl st into next 1ch sp,  break off yarn.

SOLID VERSION:

Yarn:  Strawberries & Cream (50% recycled cotton / 50% Acrylic)

Hook Size:   4.50mm

Size:  Top of head to foot = 34cm;   Mandala diameter = 25cm

BODY

Foundation:   4ch, sl st to form circle OR make a magic circle

Row 1: 3ch, 11 dc into circle, sl st to close

Row 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc into same dc as sl st from Row 1;   (2dc into each dc) x 11 = 24dc;   sl st to close

Row 3: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same dc as sl st;  1dc into next dc;  (2dc into next dc;  1dc into next dc) x 11 times = 36dc;   sl st to close

Row 4:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same dc as sl st;  1dc into each of next 2dc;  (2dc into next dc, 1 dc into each of next 2dc) x11 = 48dc;   sl st to close

Rows 5 - 10:  For each subsequent round continue to do 2dc into top of 1st of "double" dc of the previous row;   1dc into top of 2nd of "double" dc;  1dc into each single dc.    This means that every row increases by 12 stitches - thus keeping the work flat.

EYES and BEAK worked as for the Mandala Version.

FEET as for the Mandala Version, but the 5dc spikes are worked into the spaces between 5 consecutive dc.

A FEW IDEAS:

The Solid Version would make a great rug.    For this you could use sheet yarn, t-shirt yarn or even plastic yarn (plarn)

The Trivets are a little bit floppy - you could add a quilted backing to make them firmer and more heat resistant.    I am going to sew mine onto a layer of very heavy denim.    (I always wash the crochet and the denim first - just in case there is any shrinkage!)

You could decorate the owls (especially the Solid Version) if you wanted to use it as a wall hanging.  I have added ear tufts and MAGIC RING FLOWERS (with 5 petals instead of 6).   Think I might add a few beads and buttons too ......

Will post a photo when I have had enough fun decorating this one!