Seaside Winter Blanket: Umtentweni Square 4

Hello and welcome to Part 4 of our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL!

"Neapolitan"

I am so glad I created this CAL, it is such a thrill to see all your gorgeous colour combinations! I have not been able to resist all the possible colour combinations and have made up a few of my own!

"Watermelon"

"Winter Sea"

Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

"Autumn"

"Winter Berries"

"Baroque"

I have provided explanations and links for the special stitches.  

This week we will be making the "Umtentweni" Square:

UMTENTWENI  SQUARE PATTERN:

Make 1 x Umtentweni Square for the Baby Blanket
Make 2 x Umtentweni Squares for the Lapghan

Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:

INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW  and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR

Please take a moment to read the above posts, if you have not already done so in order to prepare yourself for our Crochet-a-long journey.

PATTERN TERMS:  US

SPECIAL STITCHES:

BPsc = BACK POST SINGLE CROCHET

BP standing sc = Back Post STANDING SINGLE CROCHET

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Foundation:  4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.

Round 1:  2 ch (counts as 1hdc), 15hdc into ring; sl st into 2nd of start ch to close  (16hdc).   Break off yarn.

Round 2:  Join yarn in top of any hdc;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same hdc as join, 2ch, skip 1hdc;  (2dc into next hdc, 2ch, skip 1hdc) x7 (8 x 2dc, 2ch).   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 3:  Join yarn in any 2ch sp;  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc in same sp as join, 3ch;  (3hdc into next 2ch sp, 3ch) x7 (8 x 3hdc, 3ch).   Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 4:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp; [2ch (counts as 1hdc), (3dc, 1hdc into same 3ch sp) - shell], 1ch, skip 1hdc, sl st into next hdc;  [1ch, (1hdc, 3dc, 1hdc into next 3ch sp), 1ch, skip 1hdc, sl st into next hdc] x7, 1ch (8 petals formed).  Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 5:  Join yarn in 2nd st on any shell.  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc into each of next 2sts,  6ch;  (1hdc into 2nd st on next shell, 1hdc into each of next 2sts, 6ch) x7.  sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.

Round 6:  Join yarn in any 6ch sp; 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 9hdc into same 6ch sp; (1sc into 2nd hdc, 10hdc into 6ch sp) x7;  1sc into 2nd hdc;  sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. (8 x 10hdc petals)  Break off yarn.

Round 7:  Join yarn with a standing BPsc around 1st hdc of any 10hdc petal;  1BPsc around each of next 9hdc;  1ch; 1BPsc around each of next 10hdc;  4ch;  (1BPsc around each of next 10hdc, 1ch, 1BPsc around each of next 10hdc; 4ch) x3.  sl st into top of  BP standing sc to close. (12 x 10hdc petals)

Round 8:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp;  3ch, 1trc (counts as 2trc tog);  2ch, 2trc tog, 3ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog, skip 4sc; 1sc into next sc; 10ch, skip 5sc on working petal, skip 5sc on next petal, 1sc into next sc;  [(2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog, 3ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog into next 4ch sp); skip 4sc, 1sc into next sc, 10ch, skip 5sc on working petal, skip 5sc on next petal, 1sc into next sc] x3.  Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 9:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp (corner);  3ch (counts as 1dc) (2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same 3ch sp);  2dc into next 2ch sp;  2dc into next sp between sts;  (hold ch to the front of your work, work 1dc into sc behind ch;  hold ch to the back of your work, work 1dc into sc in front of chain.) x5 (10dc);  2dc into next sp between sts, 2dc into 2ch sp;  [(3dc, 3ch, 3dc into 3ch sp); 2dc into 2ch sp, 2dc into next sp between sts; (hold ch to the front of your work, work 1dc into sc behind ch;  hold ch to the back of your work, work 1dc into sc in front of chain.) x5 (10dc); 2dc into next sp between sts,  2dc into 2ch sp] x3.  sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Crochet BORDER ROWS 1 AND 2 around square.

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A special thank you once again to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE for the time and effort put into testing the Umtentweni Square.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Seaside Winter Blanket: Amanzimtoti Bonus Square 1

Hello lovely CAL-ers!   At "surprise" intervals during this CAL I will be posting bonus squares. 

These squares are not part of the original layout and will therefore not follow the number sequence of the CAL squares, but will be numbered as Bonus Squares.

They can be used to grow your blanket or swap out with squares that you may not be "in love" with.

Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:

INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW  and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR

Please take a moment to read the above posts, if you have not already done so in order to prepare yourself for our Crochet-a-long journey.

A big thank you goes out to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES & MORE  for testing this pattern on such short notice!

AMANZIMTOTI SQUARE PATTERN

PATTERN TERMS:  US  

SPECIAL STITCHES:

Popcorn Stitch - A Popcorn is made by crocheting 4dc then removing the hook from the last loop, inserting the hook front to back on the first dc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull th

Triple Treble Crochet (trtrc)

Crossover trtrc group = 1tr into 3ch sp, bring your working yarn to the front of your work as we will be working over stitches made in previous rounds, yoh4, insert hook into left side 6ch loop, pull loop through and complete stitch,   (1trc, 3ch, 1trc into 3ch sp), yoh4, insert hook into right side 6ch loop, pull loop through and complete stitch, 1trc into 3ch sp.    If you have never done this before it may take a couple of tries before you get it right - it is very tricky on the fingers.   I find it easier if I fold the motif along the stitches I am working into.

Foundation:  4ch sl st to form ring or make a magic ring.

Round 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into ring, 2ch;  (2dc into ring, 2ch) x7 (8 x 2dc, 2ch).  Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 2:  Join yarn in any 2ch sp;  [3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc - form popcorn, 4ch],  (1 x popcorn into next 2ch sp, 4ch) x7 (8 x popcorn, 4ch).  Sl st into top of first popcorn to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 3:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same 4ch sp, 1ch;  (5dc into next 4ch sp, 1ch) x7 (8 x 5dc groupings, 1ch).  Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 4:  Join yarn in any1st dc of any 5dc grouping.   3ch, 1dc into same dc as join, 1dc into each of next 3dc, (1dc, 3ch, sl st into next dc), sl st into 1st dc on next 5c grouping;  [3ch, 1dc into same dc as join, 1dc into each of next 3dc, (1dc, 3ch, sl st into next dc), sl st into 1st dc on next 5dc grouping] x7 (8 petals).   Break off yarn.

Round 5:  Join yarn in first dc of any petal.   2ch, 4dc tog over next 4dc (counts as 5dc tog), 6ch, sc into 2nd sl st in Round 4,  6ch (5dc tog over 5dc in next petal, 6ch, sc into 2nd sl st in Round 4, 6ch) x7.  sl st into top of first dc to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 6:   Join yarn in 6ch loop to the left of any petal.  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 3hdc in same 6ch loop, 1ch, 4hdc in next 6ch loop, 1ch;  [(2hdc, 3dc in next 6ch loop, 3ch); (3dc, 2hdc in next 6ch loop, 1ch) (4hdc in next 6ch loop, 1ch) x2] x 3;  (2hdc, 3dc in next 6ch loop, 3ch); (3dc, 2hdc in next 6ch loop, 1ch.  sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn

Round 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch space;   1 crossover trtrc group (4ch counts as first trtrc), skip next st; 1dc into each of next 4sts; 1trc into top of 5dc tog in Round 5; skip next st; 1dc into each of next 3sts; 1trc in each of next 2 6ch loops, skip next st, 1dc into each of next 3sts, 1trc into top of 5dc tog in Round 5. skip 1 st. 1dc into each of next 4sts;  [1crossover trtrc group into 3ch sp;  skip next st; 1dc into each of next 4sts; 1trc into top of 5dc tog in Round 5; skip next st; 1dc into each of next 3sts; 1trc in each of next 2 6ch loops, skip next st, 1dc into each of next 3sts, 1trc into top of 5dc tog in Round 5. skip 1 st. 1dc into each of next 4sts] x3.   Sl st into 4th of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Seaside Winter Blanket: Ramsgate Square 3

Hello and welcome to Part 3 of our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL!

I am delighted that so many lovely people have joined our little Crochet-a-long and are sharing their fabulous creations!  It's is not too late to join in!   Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

I have provided explanations and links for the special stitches, but other than that, Ramsgate is a fairly straightforward square.  

This week we will be making the "Ramsgate" Square:

RAMSGATE  SQUARE PATTERN:

Make 1 x Ramsgate Square for the Baby Blanket
Make 2 x Ramsgate Square for the Lapghan

Some of the squares in this CAL may need blocking.   For good measure I am blocking all my squares, even the ones that are perfectly flat and square.    With "cold" blocking your squares won't spoil.  I have been spraying cold water onto the squares one by one as I place them onto the blocking station. I don't think that drenching them is a good idea and I would also never use hot water.

Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, previous patterns and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:

INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW  and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR

PATTERN TERMS:  US

SPECIAL STITCHES:

2dc cluster (2dc tog) =  2dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook (do not complete the stitch), repeat this once more (three loops on hook).  Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster.

4dc cluster (4dc tog) =  4dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook (do not complete the stitch), repeat this 3x more (five loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster.

Picot = (A picot is a loop of thread created for functional or ornamental purposes along the edge of lace, ribbon, crocheted, knitted or tatted material. These loops vary in size, according to their intended function and to their creator's artistic intention. The word picot is pronounced [pē' kō]. It is a diminutive derived from the French verb piquer, meaning 'to prick'.)  A picot is formed by crocheting 3ch and then sl st into the 3rd ch from hook (the first of the three ch in other words)

Ssc = Standing Single Crochet

BPdc = Back Post Double Crochet (see Scottburgh Square for explanation)

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Foundation:  4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.

Round 1:  3 ch (counts as 1dc), 11dc into ring; sl st into 3rd of start ch to close  (12dc).   Break off yarn.

Round 2::  Join yarn in top of any dc,  2ch 1dc (counts as 2dc cluster) 1ch;   (2dc cluster into top of next dc, 1ch) x11 (12 x 2dc clusters).    Sl st into top of 1st cluster to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 3:  Join yarn in any 1ch sp, 3ch (counts as 1dc), picot, 1dc into same 1ch sp, 1ch;   (1dc, picot, 1dc into next 1ch sp, 1ch) x11.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn

Round 4:   Join yarn in any 1ch sp;  2ch, 3dc tog (counts as 4dc cluster), 4ch;   (4dc cluster into next 1ch sp, 4ch) x11.   Sl st into top of first cluster to close.  (12 x 4dc cluster, 4ch).   Break off yarn.

Round 5:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp;   2ch (counts as 1hdc), 5hdc into same sp;  6hdc into next 4ch sp;  (3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 4ch sp);  [(6hdc into next 4ch sp) x2;  (3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 4ch sp)] x3.   Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 6:  Join yarn in any 3ch (corner) sp;  2ch, 3dc tog (counts as 4dc cluster), 3ch, 4dc cluster into same sp;  [BPdc around each of next 18sts;   (4dc cluster, 3ch, 4dc cluster into 3ch sp)] x3;  BPdc around each of next 18sts;   sl st into top of start cluster to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 7:   Join yarn with a Ssc in any 3ch sp;  4sc into same 3ch sp;  skip 4dc cluster; 1sc into each of next 18 sts;  skip 4dc cluster;   (5sc into 3ch sp, skip 4dc cluster, 1sc into each of next 18 sts, skip 4dc cluster) x3.  Sl st into top of Ssc to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 8:  Join yarn in 1st of corner 5sc;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next sc; (1dc, 3ch, 1dc into next sc), 1dc into next 2sc;  1dc into each of next 18sc;  [1dc into each of next 2sc;  (1dc, 3ch, 1dc into next sc);  1dc into each of next 18sts] x3.   Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Crochet BORDER ROWS 1 AND 2 around square.

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A special thank you once again to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE for the time and effort put into testing the Ramsgate Square.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Seaside Winter Blanket: Scottburgh Square 2

Hello and welcome to Part 2 of our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL!

How wonderful to have so many crochet along friends from previous CAL's joining in.   A warm welcome to you and to those of you who are joining a Zooty Owl CAL for the first time!

It's is not too late to join in!   Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

One of our lovely CAL friends sent me the following message:   "I googled crochet blanket photos for the perfect colours for my blanket.    Your point on colour placement is true.  Umzumbe got frogged about four times before I was happy.   It makes me irritated that all that work is for nothing.  Is there something you can teach me to avoid this?".

COLOUR PLACEMENT is very important and can make or break the visual effect you are trying to achieve.  I have not yet found a foolproof method to select which colour I will use for each round.     There is no right and wrong placement - what is visually pleasing to one may not be pleasing to another.   My colour placement is also sometimes not spot on first time around.   Feeling that I have wasted my time also drives me to distraction.    TIP:  when you purchase your yarn also buy a ball of each colour (or as close as possible) from a budget range.   The budget yarns are usually quite robust and make for great picnic / travel / charity blankets or yarn tote bags.   First try the placement you want with the budget yarn.    Instead of frogging the square if you are not entirely happy with the placement put it aside.   After a few projects you will have enough of these squares to make something worthwhile!

A special thank you to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES & MORE  for skillfully and efficiently testing the Scottburgh Square!

 
SCOTTBURGH SQUARE PATTERN:

The Scottburgh Square will curl because we have used the overlay technique, and will have to be BLOCKED.  (This YouTube video is easy to follow and explains the blocking technique rather well.)   Google "blocking crochet" and a number of how-to's will pop up.    I recently purchased a wooden blocking board to block my work, but as you will see in the video there are items around the house that can be used for blocking.

Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts and other useful CAL information are contained in these two posts: INTRODUCTION and YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW

Make 1 x Scottburgh Square for the Baby Blanket
Make 2 x Scottburgh Square for the Lapghan

PATTERN TERMS:   US

SPECIAL STITCHES:

2hdc tog = yoh 1, insert hook through stitch, pull through a loop but do not complete the stitch;  yoh 1, insert hook through stitch, pull through a loop and complete both stitches.

Crossover trc = Bring your working yarn to the front of your work as we will be working over stitches made in previous rounds, yoh2, insert hook into front loop of corresponding 3rd hdc in round 1, pull loop through and complete stitch,   yoh2, insert hook into front loop of corresponding 1st hdc in round 1, pull loop through and complete stitch.    If you have never done this before it may take a couple of tries before you get it right - it is very tricky on the fingers.   I find it easier if I fold the motif along the stitches I am working into.

(Note:  If you can't manage the Crossover trc stitch don't worry - work 1 trc into corresponding 1st hdc in round 1; and 1 trc into corresponding 3rd hdc in round 1 - the crossover is merely an added design feature and does not affect further rounds)

BPdc = BACK POST DOUBLE CROCHET

Foundation:   3ch, sl st into 1st ch to close OR make a magic circle

Round 1: 2ch, 11hdc into circle, sl st into top of start 2ch to close.  Break off yarn.

Round 2:  Working in back loops only join yarn in any hdc;  2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc into each of next 2hdc, 9ch (1hdc into each of next 3hdc, 9ch) x3;   sl st into top of start 2ch to close.  Break of yarn.

Round 3:  Using the same colour as in Round 2, join yarn in any 9ch sp; [2ch (counts as 1hdc),  (2hdc, 1ch, 5dc, 2ch, 5dc, 1ch, 3hdc) into same 9ch sp;  [skip 1hdc, sl st into next hdc (3hdc, 1ch, 5dc, 2ch, 5dc, 1ch, 3hdc) into next 9ch sp] x3;  sl st into start sl st to close (four "petals");   break off yarn.

Round 4:  Using the same colour as in Round 1, join yarn in any 2ch sp (top of petal);  1ch, 1hdc (counts as 2hdc tog), 3ch, 2hdc tog in same sp;  5ch, 3hdc into 1ch sp;  1ch,  Crossover trc into front loop of  corresponding 3rd and 1st hdc in Round 1;  [1ch, 3hdc into next 1ch sp;  5ch,  (2hdc tog, 3ch, 2hdc tog into next 2ch), 5ch, 3hdc into next 1ch sp, 1ch, Crossover trc into front loop of corresponding 3rd and 1st hdc in Round 1] x3;  1ch, 3hdc into 1ch sp;  5ch, sl st into start 2hdc tog to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 5:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp (top of petal); [3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3trc, 3dc into same 3ch sp (corner grouping)]; {3ch, 1trc into each of next 2hdc, 1dtrc into each of next 2hdc;  1trc into each of next 2hdc;   3ch;  [3dc, 3trc, 3dc into next 3ch sp] (corner grouping)} x3;  3ch, 1trc into each of next 2hdc, 1dtrc into each of next 2hdc, 1trc into each of next 2dc, 3ch, sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Round 6:  Join yarn in 2nd trc of any corner grouping;  6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch), 1dc into same place as join;  1dc into each of next 4sts; [3dc into 3ch sp;  BPdc around each of next 6sts;  3dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 4sts, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc into next st);  1dc into each of next 4sts] x3;  3dc into 3ch sp;  BPdc around each of next 6sts;  3dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 4sts;  sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

*Note: Round 6 of the pattern does require Bpdc around the 6 long stitches in the middle, and the photo tutorial does not show these. The Bpdc adds interest to the square but does not affect the square structurally as you can see from my tutorial square. (I really must apologize - I had a splitting migraine for the past few days and suffered a bit of "brain fog" because  of it.   I actually made 12 new No 2 squares with out the Bpdc in this round, whereas the "original" No 2 square does show the Bpdc. Since the Bpdc in this Round is just a feature I am not going to remake my squares.- to me they are equally as pretty with or without this added design feature)

 

 

 

Round 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same sp;  1dc into each of next 22dc;  [(2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next 3ch sp);  1dc into each of next 22dc] x3

BORDER ROUNDS:
Note:   Work the following two rounds on each completed square in your background / border colour.   Final stitch counts may differ from pattern to pattern, so adjustments must be allowed for when joining.

Border Round 1:   Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp,  3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same sp,  1BPdc around each stitch to next 3ch corner;  (5dc into corner sp,  1BPdc around each stitch to next 3ch corner) x3,  sl st into 3rd of start chain to close.   Do not break off yarn.

Border Round 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next dc), 1dc into each st to corner;  [1dc into next 2dc, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into next dc), 1dc into each st to corner] x3;  sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Block squares and join according to chosen layout.

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group

Seaside Winter Blanket CAL: Umzumbe Square 1

Hello and welcome!

After weeks and weeks of designing and frogging and preparing......... the big day has finally arrived!!!

Our Seaside Winter Blanket journey officially begins today with the "Umzumbe Square"!

Note:   The final two rounds on the above squares are border rounds and will be crocheted around each of the squares.   The pattern for these two rows will be provided with Square 2.
 
Please have a read through the INTRODUCTION and YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW posts where you will find the information necessary to prepare you for the CAL.

A special thank you goes out to Ritha Vishwanath, who tested the pattern for me.  

Ritha is a very skilled crocheter who pattern tests for a number of designers.    Have a look at her beautiful work on her Facebook page HOOKS, NEEDLES & MORE
 
UMZUMBE SQUARE PATTERN:

YARN:   DK /8ply / light worsted weight 100% Acrylic. 
(Worsted weight, Aran, Afghan, 10 ply yarn would also work very well, using a 5.00mm hook - you would need slightly more yarn, and of course your blankets will be a fair bit larger than the sizes given for DK)

YARN QUANTITIES:
Baby blanket:  2500 metres (2730 yards) - approximately 10 x 100g balls
Lapghan:  3750 metres (4101 yards) - approximately 15 x 100g balls

HOOK: 4.00mm

SIZES:
Lapghan - 150cm x 150cm
Baby Blanket -  94cm x 113cm 

PATTERN TERMS:   US

Baby Blanket:   Make 2 x "Umzumbe" square
Lapghan:    Make 2 x "Umzumbe" square
 
Foundation:    3ch, sl st into 1st chain to close or make a MAGIC CIRCLE

Round 1:  6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch),   (3dc into circle, 3ch) x3;  2dc into circle, sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:  205 "Watermelon"

 
Round 2:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 7dc into same sp, 1ch;  (8dc into next 3ch sp, 1ch) x 3;   sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:  042 "Shell Pink"

 
Round 3:  Join yarn in any 1ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same sp;  skip 2dc, 1sc into each of next 4dc;  (skip 2dc, 3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 1ch sp;   skip 2dc, 1sc into each of next 4dc);  skip 2dc, sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:   076 "Fuschia"

 
Round 4:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same sp, 1dc into each of next 3dc, 5ch;   (skip 4sc;   1dc into each of next 3dc;  6dc into 3ch sp;  1dc into each of next 3dc;  5ch) x3;  skip 4sc, 1dc into each of next 3dc, sl st into 3rd of start ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:  101 "Grape"

Round 5:  Join yarn in any 5ch sp;  3ch, 1trc into same sp (counts as 2trc tog);  2ch, 2trc tog, 3ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog;  [(skip 2dc, 1hdc into each of next 2dc, 4ch, skip 4dc; 1hdc into each of next 2dc,  skip 2dc);  (2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog, 3ch, 2trc tog, 2ch, 2trc tog)] x3;  skip 2dc, 1hdc into each of next 2dc, 4ch, skip 4dc, 1hdc into each of next 2dc, skip 2dc, sl st into 3rd of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Pullskein:   046 "Apricot"

Round 6:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc in same sp;  3dc into next 2ch sp;  2dc into next sp;  5dc into next 4ch sp;  2dc into next sp;  3dc into next 2ch sp;  (3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 3ch sp;  3dc into next 2ch sp;  2dc into next sp;  5dc into next 4ch sp;  2dc into next sp;  3dc into next 2ch sp), sl st into 3rd of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:  098 "Citrus"

Round 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc in same sp;  1dc into each dc to corner 3ch;   (2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp,  1dc into each dc to next corner) x3;  sl st into 3rd of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Elle Family Knit DK:  048 "Stone"

Thank you for joining in.   Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!

PS:   The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.  The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group