Hello and welcome to Part 6 of our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL! Another week has flown by and our blankets have grown by another square (or two!)
Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!
This week we will be making the "Port Shepstone" Square.
Port Shepstone is situated on the mouth of the largest river on
the south coast of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, the Mzimkulu River. 120
kilometres south of Durban, it is the administrative, educational and
commercial centre for southern Natal.
"Port Shepstone" is the first large square measuring 38cm x 38cm (including the two border rows).
Although there are no really complicated stitches and/or techniques in this pattern the later rounds contain many different stitch patterns and groupings that require a fair amount of concentration. I have tried to separate the different stitch patterns and grouping with separate brackets: { = main bracket; [ = secondary bracket; ( = tertiary bracket
PORT SHEPSTONE SQUARE PATTERN:
Make 1 x Port Shepstone Square for the Baby Blanket
Make 2 x Port Shepstone Squares for the Lapghan
Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:
INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR
Please take a moment to read the above posts, if you have not already done so in order to prepare yourself for our Crochet-a-long journey.
PATTERN TERMS: US
SPECIAL STITCHES:
5 stitch cluster: 5st cl = 1dc, 3trc, 1dc tog crochet over 5 spaces starting after the last stitch on a "fan" over the "v" and ending before the first stitch on the next "fan" as follows:
yoh, insert hook in same 3ch sp as previous st, yoh pull loop through 2 loops (2 loops on hook);
2yoh, insert hook in sp between fan and "v", yoh pull loop through 2 loops x 2 (3 loops on hook);
2yoh, insert hook in 2ch sp of "v", yoh pull loop through 2 loops x 2 (4 loops on hook);
2yoh, insert hook in sp between "v" and fan, yoh pull loop through 2 loops x 2 (5 loops on hook);
yoh, insert hook in 1st 3ch of next fan; yoh pull loop through 2 loops, yoh pull loop through 6 loops on hook.
Foundation: 4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.
Round 1: 2ch, 1dc (counts as 2dc tog), 2ch; (2dc tog into ring, 2ch) x7 (8 x 2dc tog, 2ch). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 2: Join yarn in any 2ch sp. 5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), 1dc into same 2ch sp as join, 2ch; (1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp, 2ch) x7. Sl st into top 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 3: Join yarn in any 2ch sp. 5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), 1dc into same 2ch sp as join; [1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp ("v" stitch formed)] x15 (16 x "v" stitches). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 4: Join yarn in any 2ch sp. 5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), 1dc into same 2ch sp as join; 1dc, 4ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp; [(1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp); (1dc, 4ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp)] x7. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 5: Join yarn in any 4ch sp. [4ch (counts as 1trc), 2trc, 3ch, 3trc into same 4ch sp]; [1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp ("v" formed)]; [(3trc, 3ch, 3trc into next 4ch sp), (1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp)] x 7. Sl st into 4th of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 6: Join yarn in 2ch of any "v". 5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), 1dc in same 2ch sp ("v" formed); [(2trc tog, 3ch) x 3, 2trc tog into 3ch sp ("fan" formed]; {(1dc, 2ch, 1dc into next 2ch sp) ("v" formed); [(2trc tog, 3ch) x3, 2trc tog into next 3ch sp ("fan" formed)]} x7 (8 fans; 8 v's). sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 7: Join yarn in 1st 3ch of any "fan". 3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same 3ch as join; (5dc into next 3ch) x2, 5st cl: [(5dc into 3ch sp of "fan") x3; 5st cl] x7. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 8: Join yarn in 2nd dc after any 5st cl. 1ch (does not count as a stitch), 1sc in same dc, 1sc in each of next 12dc (13sc), 3ch; [1sc into 2nd dc after next 5st cl; 1sc into each of next 12dc (13sc), 3ch) x 7. Sl st into start sc to close. Break off yarn.
Round 9: Join yarn in any 3ch sp. [3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same sp as join]; (skip 2sc; 1sc into each of next 11sc; 3sc into next 3ch sp; 1sc into each of next 11sc; skip 2sc);
[(3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 3ch sp); (skip 2sc; 1sc into each of next 11sc; 3sc into next 3ch sp; 1sc into each of next 11sc; skip 2sc)] x 3. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 10: Join yarn in any 3ch sp; [3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 1trc, 3dc into same sp as join, 2ch (corner)] (skip 3dc, 1dc into each of next 2sc), (1hdc into each of next 2sc, 1ch), (skip 1sc, 1sc into each of next 15sc, 1ch), (skip 1sc, 1hdc into each of next 2sc), (1dc into each of next 2dc; 2ch, skip 3dc);
[(3dc, 1trc, 3dc into same sp as join, 2ch), (skip 3dc, 1dc
into each of next 2sc), (1hdc into each of next 2sc, 1ch), (skip 1sc,
1sc into each of next 15sc, 1ch), (skip 1sc, 1hdc into each of next
2sc), (1dc into each of next 2dc; 2ch)] x3. Skip 3dc, sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 11: Join yarn in top of trc on any corner. {5ch (counts as 1trc, 1ch) [1trc, 3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc into same trc as join; skip 3dc (corner fan)]; [1trc, 3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc, 3ch, 1trc into 2ch sp, skip next 4sts (right fan)]; [1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc into 1ch sp (hdc "v"); 15ch, skip 15sc; (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc into 1ch sp, skip next 4sts) (hdc "v"); (1trc, 3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc, 3ch, 1trc into 2ch sp, skip 3dc) (left fan);
{[1trc, 1ch, 1trc, 3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc into trc, skip 3dc (corner fan)]; [1trc,
3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc, 3ch, 1trc into 2ch sp, skip next 4sts (right fan)]; [1hdc, 2ch,
1hdc into 1ch sp (hdc "v"); 15ch, skip 15sc; [1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc into 1ch sp, skip
next 4sts (hdc "v"); [1trc, 3ch, 1trc, 1ch, 1trc, 3ch, 1trc into 2ch sp, skip
3dc (left fan)}x3. Sl st into 4th of start ch to close.
Round 12: Join yarn in 3ch of any corner fan. 4ch, (counts as 1trc), 6trc into same 3ch sp as join; 1dc in sp between corner fan and right fan; (5dc into 3ch sp of right fan) x2; 1dc between right fan and hdc "v"; 1dc into 2ch of hdc "v";
hold 15ch to the front of your work, skip 1sc; (work 1dc into sc behind ch; hold ch to the back of your work, work 1dc into sc in front of chain.) x6 (12dc); (work 1dc into sc behind ch, skip next sc);
1dc into 2ch of hdc "v"; 1dc between hdc "v" and left fan; (5dc into 3ch sp of left fan) x2; 1dc in sp between left fan and corner fan;
[7trc into same 3ch of corner fan; 1dc in sp between corner fan and right fan; (5dc into 3ch sp of right fan) x2; 1dc between right fan and hdc "v"; 1dc into 2ch of hdc "v";
hold
15ch to the front of your work, skip 1sc; (work 1dc into sc behind ch;
hold ch to the back of your work, work 1dc into sc in front of chain.)
x6 (12dc); (work 1dc into sc behind ch, skip next sc);
1dc into 2ch of hdc "v"; 1dc between hdc "v" and left fan; (5dc into 3ch sp of left fan) x2; 1dc in sp between left fan and corner fan] x3. Sl st into 4th of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
For more detailed photos of the "threaded chain" see "UMTENTWENI"
Round 13: Join yarn in 4th trc of any corner; 3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same place as join; 1dc into each of next 16 sts; 15ch, skip next 13dc; 1dc into each of next 16 sts;
[3dc into next trc (4th trc on corner), 1dc into each of next 16sts, 15ch, skip next 13dc, 1dc into each of next 16sts] x3. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 14: Join yarn in 1st of corner 3dc; 3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into next dc (5dc corner); 1dc into next dc; 1Bpdc around each of next 16dc;
hold
15ch to the front of your work, work 1dc into dc behind ch;
hold ch to the back of your work, work 1dc into dc in front of chain.)
x6 (12dc); work 1dc into dc behind ch; 1Bpdc around each of next 16dc;
[1dc into next dc, 5dc into next dc (5dc corner); 1dc into next dc; 1Bpdc around each of next 16dc;
hold
15ch to the front of your work, work 1dc into dc behind ch;
hold ch to the back of your work, work 1dc into dc in front of chain.)
x6 (12dc); work 1dc into dc behind ch; 1Bpdc around each of next 16dc] x3. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 15: Join yarn in sp bet 1st & 2nd dc on any 5dc corner. [2ch, 1dc into same sp as join (counts as 2dc tog), 2ch; 2dc tog into next sp between dc posts, 3ch; 2dc tog into next sp between dc posts, 2ch; 2dc tog into next sp between dc posts]; 1Fpdc around next dc; 1dc into back loop only of next 16dc; (1trc into next dc: 1Fptrc around next dc) x6 (12 sts), 1trc into next dc; 1dc into back loop only of next 16dc; 1Fpdc around next dc
[(2dc tog in sp bet 1st & 2nd dc on next 5dc corner, 2ch; 2dc tog into next sp between dc posts, 3ch; 2dc tog
into next sp between dc posts, 2ch; 2dc tog into next sp between dc
posts); 1Fpdc around next dc; 1dc into back loop only of next 16dc; (1trc into next dc: 1Fptrc around next dc) x6 (12 sts), 1trc into next dc; 1dc into back loop only of next 16dc; 1Fpdc around next dc] x3. Sl st into top of 2dc tog to close. Break off yarn.
Round 16: Join yarn in any corner 3ch. [2ch, 1dc (counts as 2dc tog), (2ch, 2dc tog into same 3ch sp as join) x2]; 2ch, 2dc tog into next 2ch sp, 1Fpdc around next dc; 1dc into each of next 17sts; (1Fptrc around next Fptrc; 1trc into next trc) x5; 1Fptrc around next trc; 1dc into each of next 17sts; 1Fpdc around next dc; 2dc tog into next 2ch sp; 2ch
[( 2dc tog, 2ch into next 3ch sp)
x3; 2dc tog into next 2ch sp, 1Fpdc around next dc; 1dc into
each of next 17sts; (1Fptrc around next Fptrc; 1trc
into next trc) x5; 1Fptrc around next trc; 1dc
into each of next 17sts; Fpdc around next dc; 2dc tog into next 2ch sp] x3. Sl st into top of 2dc tog to close. Break off yarn.
Round 17: Join yarn in 2nd (middle) 2dc tog on any corner. [3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same place as join]; (2dc into next 2ch sp) X2; 1Fpdc around Fpdc; (1Bpdc around each of next 45sts); 1Fpdc around next Fpdc; (2dc into next 2ch sp) x2;
[5dc in 2nd (middle) 2dc tog on next corner; (2dc into next 2ch
sp) X2; 1Fpdc around Fpdc; (1Bpdc around each of next 45sts); 1Fpdc
around next Fpdc; (2dc into next 2ch sp) x2] x3. Sl st into 2dc tog to close. Break off yarn.
Crochet BORDER ROWS 1 AND 2 around square.
*******************
A special thank you once again to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE and Nina Mayer (aka HAEKELNINA for the time and effort put into testing the Port Shepstone Square.
PS:
The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.
The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned
post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group
Hello lovely CAL-ers! yesterday was my Birthday, so I thought I would surprise you with another bonus square, the "Southbroom Square"!
This square takes its name from the picturesque Kwa Zulu Natal coastal village of Southbroom.
The bonus squares are not part of the CAL layout and will therefore not follow the number sequence of the CAL squares, but will be numbered as Bonus Squares. They can be used to grow your blanket or swap out with squares that you may not be "in love" with.
Varying tension can make a difference to the end measurement of your square, and I have therefore requested another crochet star to test my patterns. Both ladies measure each square against their previous squares to make sure that I have not made a mistake with end measurement. A big thank you goes out to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES & MORE and Nina Mayer (aka HAEKELNINA) for your expert testing of this pattern!
The Testers have assured me that the pattern is clear and easy to follow. The photo tutorial should help guide you over the "trickier" rounds.
SOUTHBROOM SQUARE PATTERN
PATTERN TERMS: US
SPECIAL STITCHES:
3 Triple Crochet Cluster: 3trc cl = [yoh x 2, insert hook into "v", yoh (pull through 2 loops) x2] x3; yoh, pull loop through 4 loops on hook to complete cluster.
Incomplete Front Post Double Crochet: IFPdc = yoh and insert your hook from front to back between the posts of the 2nd hdc and the dtrc of the row below, and then from back to front again between the posts of the dtrc and the 3rd hdc, yoh pull through 2 loops, do not complete second part of the stitch, leaving the last loop on the hook.
Incomplete Dc: Idc = yoh, insert hook in work, yoh pull through 2 loops, do not complete second part of the stitch, leaving the last loop on the hook
Foundation: 4ch sl st to form ring or make a magic ring.
Round 1: 3 ch (counts as 1dc), 11dc into ring; sl st into 3rd of start ch to close (12dc). Break off yarn.
Round 2: Join yarn in any dc. 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same sp as join; (2dc into next dc) x11 (12 x "v" stitches of 2dc each). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 3: Join yarn between 2 dc posts of any "v". 3ch (counts as 1st incomplete trc post), 2trc tog (counts as 3trc cl), 3ch; (3trc cl between 2 dc posts of next "v", 3ch) x11 (12 x 3trc c, 3ch groups). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 4: Join yarn in any 3ch sp; 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc; 1dtrc in sp between "v's" in Round 2, 2hdc in same 3ch sp, 3ch; [2hdc; 1dtrc in sp between "v's" in Round 2, 2hdc in same 3ch sp, 3ch (petal)] x 11 (12 petals). Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 5: Join yarn in 1st st of any petal; 2ch (counts as 1Idc), IFPdc around dtrc; 1Idc into 5th st on same petal, yoh draw loop through 3 loops on hook, 4ch, 1sc into top of 3trc cl in Round 3, 4ch; (1Idc into 1st st of next petal, IFPdc around dtrc; 1Idc into 5th st on same petal, yoh draw loop
through 4 loops on hook, 4ch, 1sc into top of 3trc cl in Round 3, 4ch) x 11 (12 petals). Sl st into top of 1st petal to close. Break off yarn.
Round 6: Working behind Round 5 into Round 4, join yarn in any 3ch sp, 4ch (counts as 1trc), (1trc; 3dtrc; 2trc into same 3ch sp), (2dc into 2nd hdc on next petal, 3dc into next 3ch space) x2; 2dc into 2nd hdc on next petal; [2trc; 3dtrc; 2trc into next 3ch sp), (2dc into
2nd hdc on next petal, 3dc into next 3ch space) x2; 2dc into 2nd hdc
on next petal] x3, sl st into 4th of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 7: Join yarn in 2nd dtrc on any corner; 3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same dtrc; 1BPdc around each of next 3sts; 1dc into next dc, 1dc into next dc inserting hook from front to back through top of petal (Round 6); [1dc into each of next 4dc, 1dc into next dc inserting hook from front to back through top of petal (Round 6)] x2; 1BPDc around each of next 3sts; {5dc into next dtrc; 1BPdc around each of next
3sts; 1dc into next dc, 1dc into next dc inserting hook from front to
back through top of petal (Round 6); [1dc into each of next 4dc, 1dc into next dc inserting hook from front to back through top of petal (Round 6)] x2; 1BPDc around each of next 3sts] x3. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Crochet BORDER ROUNDS 1 & 2 around square only if you are using it in your Seaside Winter Blanket.
Hello and welcome to Part 5 of our Seaside Winter Blanket CAL! The weeks are flying by so quickly and your growing blankets are a joy to behold!
Patterns will remain on my Blog so that you can work at your own pace and make as many blankets as you like!
Although the final stitch counts may vary slightly from square to square, great care has been taken to ensure that the blocks are all the same size. I make a few of each square to check and my tester also verifies this. Yarn colours of the same brand often differ in thickness. Yarn thickness may also vary brand to brand. For example, Stylecraft Special DK, is closer in thickness to the South African Mirage 4ply. Variations in tension across squares could also cause a difference in final measurements.
Please don't despair if your squares are not exact - the blocking process should correct this.
I suggest using a "forgiving" joining method like my Visible Join (see Introduction post) as this allows for varying stitch counts without causing work to pucker or pull. If you find your squares are very uneven, try using the visible join with
3dc posts (2 spaces) in between sc's. I count my last row of
stitches for each square before I start joining, then I know how many
stitch adjustments I need to allow for. Compensate by evenly spreading
the adjustment. So on the square with more stitches your join spacing
remains the same and on the square with less stitches you compensate by
only skipping 2dc posts (1 space) evenly spread across the length of
the square. If you find the join "pulls" a bit add in another ch
between sc's. Another method that works quite well with varying
stitch counts, allowing you to evenly spread the adjustment, is the CHAIN JOIN
This week we will be making the "Margate" Square.
MARGATE SQUARE PATTERN:
Make 1 x Margate Square for the Baby Blanket
Make 2 x Margate Squares for the Lapghan
Yarn requirements, hook size, blanket sizes and layouts, joining method and other useful CAL information are contained in the following posts:
INTRODUCTION
YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW and
IN LOVE WITH COLOUR
Please take a moment to read the above posts, if you have not already done so in order to prepare yourself for our Crochet-a-long journey.
PATTERN TERMS: US
SPECIAL STITCHES:
SPIKE HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (Shdc) = yoh x1, insert hook into sp between "v" stitches in Round 2, yoh and pull loop up level with previous "normal" hdc. Complete the stitch.
Foundation: 4ch, ss to form ring or make a magic ring.
Round 1: 2ch (counts as 1hdc); 11 x hdc into ring (12hdc). Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 2: Join yarn in any dc. 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same sp as join; (2dc into next dc) x11 (12 x "v" stitches of 2dc each). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 3: Join yarn between 2 dc posts of any "v". 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc into same sp as join; (3hdc between 2 dc posts of next "v") x11 (12 x 3hdc groups = 36sts). Sl st into nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 4: Join yarn between 1st and 2nd hdc post on any 3hdc group. 2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc into sp between 2nd and 3rd hdc posts on same 3hdc group; 1Shdc in space between 3hdc groups into sp between "v" stitches in Round 2; (1hdc between 1st and 2nd posts on next 3hdc group; 1hdc into sp between 2nd and 3rd dc posts on same
3hdc group; 1Shdc in space between 3hdc groups into sp between "v"
stitches in Round 2) x 11 (36 sts). Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 5: Join yarn in sp between any 2 sts; 2ch (counts as 1hdc) into same sp as join; (1hdc into next sp between 2 sts) x35. (36hdc). Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 6: Join yarn in sp between any 2hdc; 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same sp as join; (1dc into sp between next 2hdc) x2 ; [2dc into next sp between next 2hdc; (1dc into sp between next 2hdc) x2) x11 (48dc). Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 7: Join yarn in sp between any 2dc: 4ch (counts as 1sc, 3ch); [skip 2 sp (3 dc posts), sc into next sp; 3ch) x15. (16 x 3ch loops). Sl st into 1st of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 8: Join yarn in any 3ch loop. 4ch (counts as 1trc), (3trc, 3ch, 4trc into same 3ch loop); (4dc into next 3ch loop) x3; [(4trc, 3ch, 4trc into next 3ch loop), (4dc into next 3ch loop) x3] x3. Sl st into 4th of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Round 9: Join yarn with 1 standing sc in any 3ch corner; 2 sc into same 3ch corner; 1sc into each of next 20dc; (3sc into 3ch sp; 1sc into each of next 20dc) x3. Sl st into standing sc to close. Break off yarn.
Round 10: Join yarn in 2nd of corner 3sc. [3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same sp as join]; [1dc into each of next 22 sts; (2dc. 3ch, 2dc into next st)] x3; 1dc into each of next 22sts. Sl st into 3rd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.
Crochet BORDER ROWS 1 AND 2 around square.
****************
A special thank you once again to Ritha Vishwanath of HOOKS, NEEDLES AND MORE for the time and effort put into testing the Margate Square.
PS:
The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.
The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned
post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group
Quite a few CAL-ers have been lamenting the fact that they do not have a decent yarn supplier in their vicinity. Here in South Africa the "Checkers" stores stock their own brand of yarn, called "Chick". This 100% Acrylic yarn is made by Saprotex and packaged under that name especially for Checkers. Although the range only contains basic colours there is still more than enough to choose from!
This photo was taken at Checkers, South Coast Mall and as you can see the shelves are pretty well stocked.
I set myself a little challenge....... to make a blanket using only this supermarket yarn.
The newer stock has a little sticker on the label denoting the colour, but the older stock only has a "lot" and colour "code" - so I had to do a bit of guessing when it came to the names of the colours.
I chose a blueish colourway of Royal (Blue), Light Grey, White, Saxe Blue, Cloud Blue and Jade
This yarn has been around for ages. I used to knit (no that is not a typo I actually used to knit as much as I crocheted) my kiddos jerseys with this yarn when they were little. It works up very nicely and although a bit on the stiff side, once washed correctly it is lovely and soft and wears very well.
I am not at all disappointed with the result.
The "Chick" works out to just under R22.00 for 100g which is great value for money.
Don't be afraid to try out "supermarket" yarns. The patterns I have created for this CAL work just as nicely with supermarket or budget acrylic yarns as they do with the more expensive yarns.
Join me again on Friday for the next instalment of the Seaside Winter Blanket CAL: Margate Square 5!
