Welcome to Part 4 of our Happy Days Blanket Crochet Along!
It
is not too late to join in the fun! The patterns will remain on my
blog - so you can crochet along at your own pace.
Here are the links so far:
PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square) (where you will find all the necessary info about this project);
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square)
and
Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square)
So far we have made:
4 Hakuna Matata Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 Sunny Flower Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
4 Tic-Tac-Toe Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
Some colourful photos sent to me by a few of the lovely CAL ladies!
This weeks square is my version of a solid granny square.
We will be making 10 of these 14cm x 14 cm squares.
SOLID GRANNY SQUARE PATTERN
YARN: DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% acrylic
HOOK: 5.00mm
SIZE: 14cm x 14cm
PATTERN
TERMS: US
I will include this conversion chart with each pattern to
make it easier for those using UK
terms
Foundation: 4ch, sl sl into 1st ch to form circle OR make a magic
circle
Row 1: 3ch (counts as 1dc) ; 11 dc into circle;
sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc)
Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same place as sl st; [1dc into each of next 2dc; (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into next dc] x 3; 1dc into each of next 2dc; sl st into 3rd ch at start to close. Break off yarn.
Row 3: Join yarn in top of any dc; 3ch (counts as 1dc); [1dc into each dc; (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into corner 3ch sp] repeat until you are back at the start; sl st into 3rd ch at start to close. Break off yarn.
Rows 4 and 5: Repeat the instructions for Row 3.
Row 6: Join
yarn in top of any dc; 1ch (counts as 1sc); [1sc into each dc;
(2sc, 2ch, 2sc) into corner 3ch sp] repeat until you are back at the
start; sl st into 1ch at start to close. Break off yarn.
Row 7: Join
yarn in top of any sc; 1ch (counts as 1sc); [1sc into each sc;
(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into corner 2ch sp] repeat until you are back at the
start; sl st into 1ch at start to close. Break off yarn.
Join the Solid Granny Squares to the Sunny Flower Squares using the VISIBLE JOIN METHOD to make bigger squares (28cm x 28cm = 2 Solid Granny Squares and 2 Sunny Flower Squares).
*******
I was going to do the Saturday Morning Square this week - but thought it would be fun to rather start joining the smaller squares.
The pattern for the next square will be posted on Friday, 5 September 2014.
Please post the photos of your progress on my Zooty Owl Facebook page so that I can share them with my next post!
Happy crocheting!
(Part 5 of the CAL - Popcorn Flower & Leaves Square can be found HERE)
This is a little adaptation of a DESIGN I did a while back - I was going to scrap the pattern altogether as it just was not working for me - but then inspiration struck. I changed a few rows, made it a bit smaller and VOILA!!
Although I
used DK cottons for all the doilies the different brands differ quite a
bit in thickness - so adjust your hook size to suit your yarn.
********
Materials: Raeesah Cotton Soft DK
Hook Size: 4.00mm
Size: 29cm in Diameter
********
Materials: Strawberries & Cream Cotton DK
Hook Size: 4.50mm
Size: 33cm in Diameter
********
Materials: Strawberries & Cream Cotton DK
Hook Size: 4.50mm
Size: 33cm in Diameter
********
Materials: Coffee Cotton DK
Hook Size: 4.00mm
Size: 27cm in Diameter
********
Materials: Coffee Cotton DK
Hook Size: 4.00mm
Size: 27cm in Diameter
Special
thanks to Erica Liebenberg for testing this pattern for me (with
absolute lightening speed!!!) - As you can see kitty cat was quite
impressed with the yarny goings on!
********
Pattern Terms:
My patterns are all written in US terms
I have included this little chart to
make it easier for my UK
readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.
Foundation: 4ch, sl st into first chain to form a circle OR make a magic ring
Row 1:
4ch into same place as sl st (counts as 1dc, 1ch); (1dc; 1ch into
circle) x 11, sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (12 x 1dc; 1ch
groups)
Row 2: Join yarn in any 1ch sp; 6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch); (1dc into next 1ch sp, 3ch) x 11, sl st into 3rd of 6ch at start to close.
Row 3: Join yarn in any 3ch space; 2ch, 3dc (4dc
cluster) 6ch; (4dc cluster into next 3ch space, 6ch) x 11; sl st into
top of 1st cluster to close.
Note: a 4dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over
hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving last loops on your hook,
repeat this 3 times more (five loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster
Row 4: Join
yarn in any 6ch space; 1ch (counts as 1sc); [12 dc into next 6ch sp (12dc
group); 1sc into next 6ch sp] x5; 12dc into last 6ch space; sl st
into 1 ch at start to close.
Row 5:
Join yarn into top of 2nd dc on any 12dc group; 4ch in same sp as join
(counts as 1dc, 1ch); 1dc, 1ch into each of next 9dc (10dc group);
(1dc into 2nd dc on next 12dc group, 1ch; 1dc, 1ch into each of next
9dc) x 5; sl st into 3rd of 4ch at start to close.
Row 6: Join
yarn into top of 2nd dc on any 10dc group; 5ch in same sp as join
(counts as 1dc, 2ch); 1dc, 2ch into each of next 7dc (8dc group); (1dc
into 2nd dc on next 10dc group, 2ch; 1dc, 2ch into each of next 7dc) x
5; sl st into 3rd of 5ch at start to close.
Row 7: Join
yarn in first 2 ch sp of 8dc group, 5ch in same space (counts as 1sc,
4ch), 1sc, 4ch into each of next six 2ch spaces (6 loop grouping);
(1sc, 4ch into first 2ch sp of 8dc group; 1sc, 4ch into each of next
six 2ch spaces) x 5; sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.
Row 8: Join
yarn in first 4ch space of any 6 loop grouping; 5ch in same space
(counts as 1sc, 4ch); 1sc, 4ch into each of next four spaces; 1sc into next 4ch sp, (5 loop
grouping) 6ch; [1sc into first 4ch space on next
6 loop grouping, 4ch; 1sc, 4ch into each of next four 4ch sps; 1sc into next 4ch sp, (5 loop
grouping) 6ch] x 5; sl st into 1st of 5ch at
start to close.
Row 9:
Join yarn in first 4ch space of any 5 loop grouping; 5ch in same space
(counts as 1sc, 4ch); 1sc, 4ch into each of next three 4ch sps; 1sc
into next 4ch space (4 loop grouping), 1ch; [into 6ch space between
loop groupings work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3; 2dc cluster, 1ch; 1sc into
first 4ch space of next 5 loop grouping, 4ch; 1sc, 4ch into each of
next three 4ch sps; 1sc into next 4ch space (4 loop grouping), 1ch] x
5; into last 6ch space between groupings work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3;
2dc cluster, 1ch; sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close;
Note: a 2dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over
hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook,
repeat this once more (three loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster
Row 10: Join yarn in first 4ch of any 4 loop grouping;
5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch); 1sc, 4ch into each of next two
4ch spaces; 1sc into next 4ch space (3 loop grouping), 1ch; [into 2ch
sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster, 2ch; into 2ch
sp between 2nd and 3rd 2dc cluster work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3; into
2ch sp between 3rd and 4th 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster, 1 ch;
1sc into first 4ch of 4 loop grouping, 4ch; 1sc, 4ch into each of next
two 4ch spaces; 1sc into next 4ch sp (3 loop grouping), 1ch] x5; into
2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster 2ch;
into 2ch sp between 2nd and 3rd 2dc cluster work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x
3; into 2ch sp between 3rd and 4th 2dc clusters work 1 2dc cluster, 1
ch, sl st into 1st of 5ch a start to close.
Row 11: Join
yarn in first 4ch of any 3 loop grouping, 5ch in same space (counts as
1sc, 4ch); 1sc into next 4ch space, 4ch; 1sc into next 4ch space (2
loop grouping), 1ch [into 2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work 1
x 2dc cluster, 2ch; (2dc cluster, 2ch, 2dc cluster, 2ch into next
space between 2dc clusters) x2; 2dc cluster in next space between
clusters, 1ch; (1sc in next 4ch space, 4ch) x2; 1ch] x 5; into 2ch sp
between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work 1 x 2dc cluster, 2ch;
(2dc cluster, 2ch, 2dc, 2ch cluster into next space between 2dc
clusters) x2; 2dc cluster in next space between clusters; 1ch; sl st
into 1st of 5ch at start to close
(I did not have a
problem with the Raeesah Cotton Soft but the Strawberries & Cream
and the Coffee Cotton started to "pucker" a bit at this point - a puff
of steam after each completed row sorted this out nicely though!)
Row 12: Join yarn in 1ch sp before close sl st on Row 11;
3ch (counts as 1dc) in same 1ch sp as join; 5dc into next two 4ch
spaces; 1dc into next 1ch sp; 3hdc into 1st sp between clusters;
3sc into each of next 3 spaces between clusters; 3hdc into next space
between clusters; (1dc in next1ch sp; 5dc into next 2 4ch
spaces; 1dc into next 1ch sp; 3hdc into 1st sp between clusters;
3sc into each of next 3 spaces between clusters; 3hdc into next space
between clusters) repeat to end; sl st into 3rd of 3ch at start to
close
Row 13: Join
yarn in same place as close sl st: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same
place as join; 1dc into each of next 10dc; 2dc into next dc; skip
3hdc; 2hdc into each of next 3sc; skip 3sc; 2hdc into each of next
3sc, skip 3hdc; (2dc into next dc; 1dc into each of
next 10dc; 2dc into next dc; skip 3hdc; 2hdc into each of next 3sc;
skip 3sc; 2hdc into each of next 3sc, skip 3hdc)
Row 14 (edging): join yarn with a sl st in any stitch, 1ch, sl st in next stitch, repeat to end
I had a 100g ball of Lollipop variegated yarn in spectacularly bright rainbow colours. Thought I would make a ROAD TRIP SCARF with it - but OUCH - there was just too much colour going on (never thought I would actually say something like that!!)
I suddenly had the idea to make a beach bag and just started crocheting! Even though I had no clear idea as to what the end product would look like, I knew EXACTLY how I wanted to decorate it! Great big floppy Hibiscus Blooms - like the ones you find on the Island Queen Hibiscus:
The bloom is quite frilly and just altogether fantastic. Not an easy thing to recreate!
Remember a few weeks back I helped Designer Iin Wibisono test the FRILLY PANSY pattern (I used it to decorate my JAR JACKETS)? The big frilly pansy petals were perfect to start forming my Hibiscus Bloom - so thank you Iin for the inspiration and letting me borrow something from your idea!
I used the reverse single crochet to edge the first one I made:
I love the look of the reverse single crochet, but my fingers get a bit knotted up doing the crab stitch, so I changed the edging a bit on my second attempt:
Quite happy with how it turned out - of course not even close to as spectacular as Mother Nature's work - but not a bad yarny copy!
Special thanks also to the ladies who tested the pattern for me! You girls ROCK!
Gloria Clayton used a cotton poly blend for the petals and base but had to switch to Simply Soft to get the hot pink border. Gloria says "I found it pleasing to make and believe with your special stitch instruction it could be made by some beginners." She suggests that you DO read the whole pattern through before starting to crochet as there are several portions to be worked.
Gabriela Mendez from Beunos Aires used cerise for rows 1 and 2 - the same colour as the beads; then a
soft yellow for the petals and the flower centre; bright orange for
the eding. Gabriela says "it is wonderfully written, very clear"
My wonderful bloggy friend, Pat Wilkinson, from SUNSHINE AND A SEWING BASKET once again stepped up to help me test, making her Hibiscus in these beautiful shades.
I can also always count on my Facebook friend, Laura Brozo to quickly and effectively test my patterns! I just LOVE the hot pink she used as well as the straight slip stitch along the edge!
Thank you all, once again, for your wonderful input!
So enough blah blah blah from me....... here is the pattern!
HIBISCUS BLOOM
PATTERN TERMS:
US
My patterns are all written in US terms - I have included this little chart to
make it easier for my UK
readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.
Skill Level: Intermediate
Approximate
Time: 60 minutes
Yarn: Any DK (8 ply / Light Worsted Weight) or Aran (10ply / Worsted Weight) Yarn (I used Lollipop DK) - The bloom is made from 3 different colours.
Hook: Use whatever hook size
suits your choice of yarn and your tension (I used a 5.00 mm hook; and a 4.00mm hook)
Special Stitches: I use a double triple crochet (dtrc) (yarn three times around hook) - this is known as a Triple Treble in UK Terms (ttr)
Foundation: With colour A and using a 5.00mm hook - 4ch, sl st to join OR make a magic ring
Row 1: 3ch (counts as 1 dc), 11 dc into circle (12 dc),
sl st into top of 3ch to join
Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into top of same dc; (2dc into top of next dc) x11 = 24dc; sl st into top of 3ch to join
Row 3: Join colour B into top of any dc; 4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as join; 3dtrc into each of next 2dc; into next dc 2dtrc, 4ch sl st; (4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as sl st from previous petal; 3dtrc into each of next 2dc; into next dc 2dtrc, 4ch sl st) x 6; 4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as sl st from previous petal; 3dtrc into each of next 2dc; into next dc (same dc as start of first petal) 2dtrc, 4ch sl st= 8 petals formed
Petal Edging: Using the 4.00mm hook join Colour C with a sl st into the top of first dtrc on any petal; (1ch; 1sl st into the top of next dtrc) x 9; (1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3; sl st into sl st at base of 4ch; 6ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed) 3ch, sl st into sl st at base of 4ch
[(1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3; (1ch, sl st into top of next dtrc) x 10; (1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3; sl st into sl st at base of 4ch; 6ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed) 3ch, sl st into sl st at base of 4ch] x 7; break off yarn
(VARIATION: you could use the reverse single crochet - as with the Frilly Pansy - to edge your petals!)
Flower Centre: Using the 4.00mm hook attach Colour B with a slip stitch around any dc post in Row 1; 9ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed) 6ch;
(sl st around next dc post in Row 1; 9ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook; 6ch) x 11; sl st around last dc post from Row 1; break off yarn
Embellishment - sew a few little beads into the centre of the flower!
This little flower is quite versatile!
Leave the picot part out when you do the edging, don't crochet the flower centre - and add a big button to the centre instead:
PS: OOOh...... ooh and a last test in - this one from Iin Wibisono - isn't it pretty??? (Thank you Iin)
As promised, the pattern for the MOM AND DAUGHTER CROCHET ALONG SCARF, A.K.A. "The Wildflowers Scarf"!
PATTERN TERMS:
US
My patterns are all written in US terms - I have included this little chart to
make it easier for my UK
readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.
Skill Level: Easy
Approximate
Time: 2
hours
Yarn:
I used Elle Escapade DK for the first scarf and Lollipop DK for the other two
Any
DK (8 ply / Light Worsted Weight) or Aran (10ply / Worsted Weight) Yarn would be suitable
Hook Size:
I used a 6.00mm for the foundation chains and a 5.50mm for the rest
Use whatever hook size
suits your choice of yarn and your tension.
Size:
Width - 13cm
Length - 164cm (excluding embellishments)
SCARF
Foundation: with a 6.00mm hook crochet 24ch
Change to 5.50mm hook
(I use a slightly bigger hook to crochet the foundation chain - gives a more even start to the workpiece)
Repeat Row 2 until scarf is required length (I made mine 164 cm - over 125 rows)
Working
across the length; 3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc
into same sp post; 2dc into each post; 6dc into last post at
end of row;
working across the width, 2dc into each 1ch sp; 6dc into last 1ch sp at end of row;
working across the length, 2dc into post directly after 6dc; 2dc into each post; 6dc into last post at end of row;
working across the width, 2dc into each 1ch sp, 3dc into same space as start 3ch, sl st into top of 3ch to close.
I quite fancy the reverse single crochet although I have to admit it is a bit fiddly. For a beginner a regular single crochet edging might be a more comfortable option.
The scarf can be worn as is or you can really go to town decorating it!! Add a few wildflowers, or beaded braids / tassels!
SMALL WILD FLOWER
Make a magic ring.
Row 1: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into the ring, 5ch; (2dc, 5ch) x4 (5 petals formed), sl st into sp between 2dc to close;
Row 2: Join yarn in space between two dc
(1ch; 6hdc into 5ch sp, 1ch, sl st into next sp between two dc) x5 (the last sl
st being worked into the start 1ch); break off yarn
LARGE WILD FLOWER
Make a magic ring.
Row 1: 4ch (counts as 1trc), 1trc into the ring, 5ch; (2trc, 5ch) x4 (5 petals formed), sl st into sp between 2dc to close;
Row 2: Join yarn in space between two trc
(2ch; 6dc into 5ch sp, 2ch, sl st into next sp between two trc) x5 (the last sl
st being worked into the 1st of the 2ch at the start); break off yarn
Embellish your flowers with additional stitchwork, embroidery, beads and buttons! (No rules! Just have fun!)
