Holiday Ripple Blanket

In an effort to use up all the less than full balls of  yarn as well as the "odds" and "uglies" in my DK Acrylic stash, I rolled two 8ply strands together to make some "Super Bulky" 16ply yarn!

Note:   It may be easier to "double-strand-as-you-go" - by that I mean crocheting the yarns together as you go and not pre-rolling as I did!

After a bit of trial and error I came up with this ripple pattern for a blanket!  Since there was quite an odd collection of colours and quantities, I crocheted random stripes!

This "Super Bulky" yarn works up in no time at all and is the perfect project for a rainy weekend!

 

I estimate having used approximately 1800g to 2000g of yarn.

I decided to keep the fun element by not bordering the blanket and making a beaded fringe with the tails instead!

The fringe adds such a happy hippie vibe to the blanket!   (I will be posting a pattern for a border for those of you who do not like the fringe idea!)

HOLIDAY RIPPLE BLANKET

The Print Friendly version of this pattern can be found HERE

Pattern Terms:   US 

Materials:   2 strands of DK worked together (equivalent to 16ply OR Super Bulky yarn)

Quantity:  Approximately 1800g to 2000g of DK (8ply / light worsted weight yarn)

Hook:  9.00mm

Measurements:   180cm x 180cm (216 plus 4 ch over 120 rows)

Stitches used:    chain and double crochet (US) (for UK readers this would be chain and treble)


The pattern is worked in multiples of 9 plus 4

(If you have never rippled before it is a good idea to make yourself a practice swatch - 18ch (2 x 9) plus 4ch = 22ch)

My son made this fabulous chart to explain the pattern:

(Leave a fairly long tail with every colour change - this will be used to make our fringe.)

Foundation Chain:   216 plus 4 (220) 

Row 1:  Into fourth chain from hook work 1dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next ch)x3;   skip 2ch ("valley" formed);  [(1dc into next ch)x3;   (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into next ch ("mountain" formed);   (1dc into next ch)x3;    skip 2ch] repeat to last 6ch;   skip 2ch;   (1dc into next ch)x3;   2dc into last chain;   turn work

Row 2:  3ch, 1dc into first dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next dc) x3;   skip 2dc [(1dc into next dc) x3;  (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into 1ch space (at the peak of the "mountain" on the previous row);  (1dc into next dc)x3;  skip 2dc (across the "valley" on the previous row)] repeat to last 4dc;  (1dc into next dc) x3;   2dc into last dc (this "dc" is actually the 3ch start at the beginning of the previous row)

Keep repeating Row 2 until your workpiece is the required length.

Beaded Fringe

Thread beads of choice randomly onto the tail at the end of one row and the tail at the start of the next row.

Hold one tail between the thumb and forefinger of your left hand and the other between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand.     Start twisting the yarn tighter in the same direction as the twist of the yarn tails.

Bring the twisted tails together and gently twist them in the opposite direction.  Knot the ends

Holiday Ripple: Print Friendly Pattern

Pattern Terms:   US 

Materials:   2 strands of DK worked together (equivalent to 16ply OR Super Bulky yarn)

Quantity:  Approximately 1800g to 2000g of DK (8ply / light worsted weight yarn)

Hook:  9.00mm

Measurements:   180cm x 180cm (216 plus 4 ch over 120 rows)

Stitches used:    chain and double crochet (US) (for UK readers this would be chain and treble)

The pattern is worked in multiples of 9 plus 4

(If you have never rippled before it is a good idea to make yourself a practice swatch - 18ch (2 x 9) plus 4ch = 22ch)

My son made this fabulous chart to explain the pattern:

 (Leave a fairly long tail with every colour change - this will be used to make our fringe.)

Foundation Chain:   216 plus 4 (220) 

Row 1:  Into fourth chain from hook work 1dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next ch)x3;   skip 2ch ("valley" formed);  [(1dc into next ch)x3;   (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into next ch ("mountain" formed);   (1dc into next ch)x3;    skip 2ch] repeat to last 6ch;   skip 2ch;   (1dc into next ch)x3;   2dc into last chain;   turn work

Row 2:  3ch, 1dc into first dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next dc) x3;   skip 2dc [(1dc into next dc) x3;  (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into 1ch space (at the peak of the "mountain" on the previous row);  (1dc into next dc)x3;  skip 2dc (across the "valley" on the previous row)] repeat to last 4dc;  (1dc into next dc) x3;   2dc into last dc (this "dc" is actually the 3ch start at the beginning of the previous row)

Keep repeating Row 2 until your workpiece is the required length.

Beaded Fringe

Thread beads of choice randomly onto the tail at the end of one row and the tail at the start of the next row.

Hold one tail between the thumb and forefinger of your left hand and the other between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand.     Start twisting the yarn tighter in the same direction as the twist of the yarn tails.

Bring the twisted tails together and gently twist them in the opposite direction.  Knot the ends

Happy Days CAL (9): Joining Chart

We have completed the squares for our Happy Days Blanket: 

PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square)  
x4 (28cm x 28cm each)
 
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square)
x10 (14cm x 14cm each) 
  
Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square)
x4  (28cm x 28cm each)

Part 4 (Solid Granny Square)
x10 (14cm x 14cm each)

Part 5 (Popcorn Flower & Leaves Square)
x8 (14cm x 14cm each)

Part 6 (Box Stitch Square)
x8 (14cm x 14cm)

Part 7 (Zooty Mandala Square) 
x4 (28cm x 28cm)
 
Part 8 (Happy Days Mandala Square) 
x4 (28cm x 28cm) 

You can use whatever method you prefer to join your squares.    You can also join them in whatever order you choose.

I will be crocheting a double row of dc with "Storm" (dark grey) around each 28cm x 28cm square;  and then using my VISIBLE JOIN to join them together.

I like the Visible Join because it is very forgiving - you still get a very neat join even if your squares are slightly uneven.     It also adds interest to your work giving a "stitched" look!

 My squares will be joined according to this chart:

I will post the pattern for my border and edging on Friday 14 November 2014 (the border will be a slight variation on the BABY GROOVYGHAN)

Please feel free to use your favourite border and edging.

Pansy and Leaves Pattern

Pansy Flower:

Foundation: 3ch or make a magic ring

Petals:  (3ch, 4 trc, 3ch, sl st into ring) x 2;   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring;   3ch, 2trc, 3ch sl st into ring,   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring,    break off yarn.

Embroider the flower centres in a contrasting colour

Leaves: 

Foundation:  6ch

Leaf:  1sc into 2nd ch from hook; 1sc into next ch, 1hdc into each of next 2ch;  6dc into last chain (this will form the curve of your leaf and will bring you around to the bottom end of the chain);   working along the bottom edge of the chain, 1hdc into each of next 2ch; 1sc into next ch,  sl st into next ch, break off yarn.

Lovely as an embellishment on a hat, bag or scarf such as the GRANNY STRIPE SCARF

Happy Days Mandala

Coffee Cotton is a Cotton, Pan Fibre, Coffee Extract Blend which does not split and makes for a very neat stitch. 

Sadly the colours are not very vibrant and there are only 9 colours to choose from.

Last week I worked through my Coffee Cotton stash by crocheting a few quick and easy mandalas. 

I made this one for my daughter's craft room in her lovely new home:

I had the idea to use these to make up small gifts, by wrapping cellophane around a small potted herb, threading ribbon through the "meshy" part of the mandala and then tying that around the pot. 


 

I have not as yet been able to find small potted plants (ideally herbs) and have therefore not been able to test my idea as yet!!

 

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% cotton (or any cotton blend) (I used "Coffee Cotton" - a blend of cotton, pan fibre and coffee extract)
 
HOOK: 4.00mm

SIZE:  23cm in diameter

PATTERN TERMS:   US

This is the pattern I used as the focal point for the Happy Days Mandala Square.   (Note:  Row by Row photos of the first 11 rows can be found HERE)

Foundation:  3ch, sl st to form a circle OR make a magic circle

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  11 dc into circle;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc)

Row 2:  Join yarn into any sp between dc,  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc in same space as join (2dc grouping);  [2dc into each sp between dc  (2dc grouping)] x11;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (24dc)

Row 3:  Join yarn in centre of any 2dc grouping;  4ch (counts as 1trc), 2trc into same space as join;  [3trc into centre of next 2dc grouping (3trc grouping)] x 11, sl st into top of 4ch at start to close (36trc).   Break off yarn.

Row 4:    Join yarn in space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on any 3trc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same space as join;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc post;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings;   [2dc into space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on next 3trc grouping;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc posts;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings] x11; sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (60dc).   Break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join yarn in any dc;  2ch (counts as 1hdc);  (1hdc into each dc) x59;    sl st into top of 2ch at start to close (60hdc).   Break off yarn

Row 6:  Join yarn in any sp between 2 hdc;  4ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  (skip 2sp between hdc;   1sc, 3ch into next sp between hdc) x19;  sl st into 1st of 4ch at start to close.   Break off yarn

Row 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same sp as join (4dc grouping);  [4dc in next 3ch space (4dc grouping)] x19 (20 x 4dc groupings);  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 8:  Join yarn in any sp between 4dc groupings;  5ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  [1sc, 4ch in next space between 4dc groupings] x 19;  sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.  (see photo for Row 6) 

Row 9:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp, 2ch (counts as 1hdc); 4hdc into same sp as join;   [5hdc into next 4ch sp (5hdc grouping)] x19;   sl st into top of 2ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 10:  Join yarn in 1st hdc of any 5hdc grouping,  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc;  2dc into next dc;   (1dc into next dc) x2;  [(1dc into next dc) x2;  2dc into next dc;  (1dc into next dc) x2] x19

Row 11:  Join yarn between any two dc on last row of Mandala, 4ch in same space as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  [skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1sc into the 3rd space, 3ch] repeat all around the circle;  3ch sl st into first chain at start of row (40 x 3ch loops).   Break off yarn

Row 12:  (edging)   Join yarn with a sl st in any 3ch space;   [(1hdc, 2dc, 2trc, 2dc, 1hdc) into next 3ch space;   sl st into next 3ch space) x 19;  (1hdc, 2dc, 2trc, 2dc, 1hdc) into next 3ch space.     Break off yarn and join to first sl st in the row with a yarn needle.

Happy Days CAL (8): Happy Days Mandala Square

Welcome to Part 8 of our Happy Days Blanket Crochet Along! 

Here are the links to the squares we have made so far:

PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square) (where you will find all the necessary info about this project);
 
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square);

Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square);

Part 4 (Solid Granny Square);

Part 5 (Popcorn Flower & Leaves Square); and

Part 6 (Box Stitch Square)

Part 7 (Zooty Mandala Square)

So far we have made:
4 x Hakuna Matata Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x  Sunny Flower Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
4 x  Tic-Tac-Toe Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x Solid Granny Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
8 x Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
8 x Box Stitch Squares (14cm x 14cm)
4 x Zooty Mandala Squares (28cm x 28cm)

We have joined the Sunny Flower Squares and the Solid Granny Squares to make 5 bigger 28cm x 28cm Squares

We have also joined the Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares and the Box Stitch Squares to make 4 bigger 28cm x 28cm Squares. 

Some photos sent to me by ladies participating in the CAL:

This weeks we will be making 4 x Happy Days Mandala Squares:

HAPPY DAYS MANDALA SQUARE

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% acrylic 
 
HOOK:  5.00mm

SIZE:  28cm x 28cm

PATTERN TERMS:   US

I will include this conversion chart with each pattern to make it easier for those using UK terms

Foundation:  3ch, sl st to form a circle OR make a magic circle

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  11 dc into circle;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc)

Row 2:  Join yarn into any sp between dc,  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc in same space as join (2dc grouping);  [2dc into each sp between dc  (2dc grouping)] x11;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (24dc)

Row 3:  Join yarn in centre of any 2dc grouping;  4ch (counts as 1trc), 2trc into same space as join;  [3trc into centre of next 2dc grouping (3trc grouping)] x 11, sl st into top of 4ch at start to close (36trc).   Break off yarn.

Row 4:    Join yarn in space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on any 3trc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same space as join;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc post;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings;   [2dc into space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on next 3trc grouping;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc posts;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings] x11; sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (60dc).   Break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join yarn in any dc;  2ch (counts as 1hdc);  (1hdc into each dc) x59;    sl st into top of 2ch at start to close (60hdc).   Break off yarn

Row 6:  Join yarn in any sp between 2 hdc;  4ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  (skip 2sp between hdc;   1sc, 3ch into next sp between hdc) x19;  sl st into 1st of 4ch at start to close.   Break off yarn

Row 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same sp as join (4dc grouping);  [4dc in next 3ch space (4dc grouping)] x19 (20 x 4dc groupings);  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 8:  Join yarn in any sp between 4dc groupings;  5ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  [1sc, 4ch in next space between 4dc groupings] x 19;  sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.  (see photo for Row 6) 

Row 9:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp, 2ch (counts as 1hdc); 4hdc into same sp as join;   [5hdc into next 4ch sp (5hdc grouping)] x19;   sl st into top of 2ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 10:  Join yarn in 1st hdc of any 5hdc grouping,  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc;  2dc into next dc;   (1dc into next dc) x2;  [(1dc into next dc) x2;  2dc into next dc;  (1dc into next dc) x2] x19

Row 11:  Join yarn between any two dc on last row of Mandala, 4ch in same space as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  [skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1sc into the 3rd space, 3ch] repeat all around the circle;  3ch sl st into first chain at start of row (40 x 3ch loops).   Break off yarn.

Start squaring your mandala (Row by Row photos of the "squaring" can be found HERE)

Row 12:  Join yarn in any 3ch space;    [4ch (counts as 1trc) 2trc, 3ch, 3trc into same space as join;  1ch (corner)];  [3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  (3sc into next 3ch space, 1ch) x3;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  (3trc, 3ch, 3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch)] x3;  3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  (3sc into next 3ch space, 1ch) x3;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch    sl st into top of 4ch at start.   Break off yarn.

At this stage your square will still be looking slightly curved


Row 13:  Join yarn in any 3ch corner space;  [4ch (counts as 1sc, 3ch) 1sc] into same space as join;  [3ch, 1sc) repeat around square, working (1sc, 3ch, 1sc) into each corner space;   sl st into 1st of 4ch at start;


Row 14:  sl st into corner 3ch space;    [4ch (counts as 1trc) 2trc, 3ch, 3trc into same space as join (corner)];  [(3trc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3hdc into next 3ch space) x3;   (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;   (3trc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3trc, 3ch, 3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch)] x3;   [(3trc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3hdc into next 3ch space) x3;   (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;   (3trc into next 3ch space) x2] sl st into top of 4ch at start.

Row 15:   2ch (counts as 1hdc) into same place as sl st;  1hdc into top of each dc,  Into corner 3ch spaces crochet 2hdc, 3ch, 2hdc;   sl st into top of 2ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

I am working on the assembly chart at the moment - will post this by next week Friday (24 October 2014)

If you would like to have your work included on my blog please post your photos to my Zooty Owl Facebook page!

Happy Days Mandala Hexagon Motif

HAPPY DAYS MANDALA HEXAGON

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% acrylic 
 
HOOK:  5.00mm

(NOTE:    These motifs can be made with any weight or blend of yarn)
 
PATTERN TERMS:   US

I will include this conversion chart with each pattern to make it easier for those using UK terms

Foundation:  3ch, sl st to form a circle OR make a magic circle


Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  11 dc into circle;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc)

Row 2:  Join yarn into any sp between dc,  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc in same space as join (2dc grouping);  [2dc into each sp between dc  (2dc grouping)] x11;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (24dc)

Row 3:  Join yarn in centre of any 2dc grouping;  4ch (counts as 1trc), 2trc into same space as join;  [3trc into centre of next 2dc grouping (3trc grouping)] x 11, sl st into top of 4ch at start to close (36trc).   Break off yarn.

Row 4:   Join yarn in any space between 3trc groupings,  6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch), 2dc into same space, 1ch;  [2dc into next space, 1ch;   (2dc, 3ch, 2dc = corner into next space, 1ch)] x5;  2dc into next space. 1ch;  1dc into start space;  sl st into 3rd chain to close.

Row 5:   Sl st into 3ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 3ch, 2dc into same space, 1ch;    [(2dc into next space, ch1) x2;   (2dc, 3ch, 2dc = corner into next space, ch1)] x5;  (2dc into next space, ch1) x2;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.

I use the join-as-you-go method to join my motifs (you can use whatever method you prefer).   You can find a tutorial for the join-as-you-go HERE

Flower Granny Stripe Scarves: Pattern

A colourful and easy project!    Perfect for novices but fun for any skill level!

GRANNY STRIPE SCARVES MADE WITH A COMBINATION OF ELLE RUSTICA AND ELLE CLASSIC WOOL

(A print-friendly version of this pattern can be found HERE)

The pattern is designed to be worked in a 100% acrylic "economy" DK (8ply / light worsted weight) yarn, but it works up lovely in courtelle, 100% wool, acrylic/wool blends, and cottons.

GRANNY STRIPE SCARVES MADE WITH ELLE PULLSKEIN DK

The pattern also works up well in Aran (10ply / medium worsted weight) yarn

FLOWER GRANNY SCARVES:    PATTERN

Yarn:    DK / 8ply / Light Worsted Weight
Hook:   5.50mm 
Foundation:  17ch
Length:  160cm
Quantities:  Approximately 100g of your main colour and 10 - 20grams of your contrast colours

THIS PATTERN IS WRITTEN IN US TERMS

Basic Stitches:   We are using five basic stitches only - chain (ch);  single crochet (sc);  double crochet (dc); triple crochet (trc) and a slip stitch (sl st) (US terms); 

UK CROCHETERS will be using a double crochet (dc) (single crochet in US);   treble (tr) (double crochet in US);  double treble (dtr) (triple crochet in US);  chain (ch);   and slip stich (sl st)

Granny Stripe Panel

Foundation:  17ch

Row 1:    Into 6th chain from hook, 3dc;    (skip 2ch, 3dc into next ch) x 3;  skip next ch;   1ch, 1dc into last ch;    turn work

Row 2:   3ch (counts as 1dc);   2dc into 1ch space;  (3dc into space between 3dc groupings) x 3;   3dc into space at end of row;   turn work

Row 3:   4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch);   (3dc into space between 3dc groupings) x 4;   1ch, 1dc into top of 3ch at end of row;   turn work 
 

Even Rows 4 - 118 (Repeat Row 2)

Odd Rows 5 - 119 (Repeat Row 3)

On 119 Rows the Granny Stripe Panel measures 130cm.     The scarf is easily made shorter by crocheting fewer rows.

Make two traditional granny squares as follows:

Traditional Granny Square:

Foundation:  4ch, sl st to form ring OR make a magic ring

Row 1:    3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc into circle,  2ch (3dc into circle, 2ch) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn.

Row 2:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Row 3:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   3dc into space between 3dc groupings;  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space;   3dc into next space between 3dc groupings) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Row 4:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into same space as join;   1dc into the top of each dc up to the corner;  (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space;   1dc into the top of each dc up to the corner) x 3;    sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close;   Break off yarn

Use whatever method you are comfortable with to join your square to your main work-piece.   (I used the join-as-you go method to join my squares, by making a slip st every third stitch from my granny square into my main work-piece (make sure that the right side of both squares face in the same direction when you join)

Border:

Worked along the length of the scarf on both sides - right side facing

Row 1:  Join yarn in corner of granny square (right side facing);   3ch, 1dc into each dc; 1dc into corner space, 1dc across join;   2dc into side of each post along the granny rows;  1dc across join, 1dc into corner space, 1dc into each dc, 1dc into corner of granny, break off yarn.

Row 2:   Join yarn in top of 3ch on row 2, 1sc into each dc across the length of the scarf, break off yarn

Row 3:  Join yarn in 1st single crochet,   3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc in same space as join;   (skip 2sc, sl st into 3rd sc;   skip 2sc, 6dc in next sc) repeat to last 6sc;   skip 2sc, sl st in next sc; skip 2sc, 3dc in last sc, break off yarn

Your scarf now looks like this:

Fringe Edging:

Worked along both ends of the scarf in the same colour as the Shell Border Row 

Row 1:  Working on the right side of your work, join yarn into side post of shell row;  2sc into same place as join,  1sc into side post of sc row, 2sc into side post of dc row; 1sc into each dc across granny square;   2sc into side post of dc row;  1sc into side post of sc row;  2sc into side post of shell row, turn work (27sc)

Row 2:  Working on the wrong side of your work, 1ch, 1sc into same place as 1st sc, 1sc into each of next 26sc, turn work.

Row 3:  working on the right side of your work, (15ch, Popcorn Stitch into fourth ch from hook, 12ch, skip 2sc, sl st into 3rd sc) x 9.   Break off yarn.

EMBELLISHMENTS

Add as many flowers as you like (or none at all), you can even add beads or buttons to "customize" your scarf!

Pansy Flower:
 
Foundation: 3ch or make a magic ring

Petals:  (3ch, 4 trc, 3ch, sl st into ring) x 2;   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring;   3ch, 2trc, 3ch sl st into ring,   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring,    break off yarn.

Embroider the flower centres in a contrasting colour

Leaves: 

Foundation:  6ch

Leaf:  1sc into 2nd ch from hook; 1sc into next ch, 1hdc into each of next 2ch;  6dc into last chain (this will form the curve of your leaf and will bring you around to the bottom end of the chain);   working along the bottom edge of the chain, 1hdc into each of next 2ch; 1sc into next ch,  sl st into next ch, break off yarn.

********************************************

A HUGE Thank You!!! to the lovely ladies who tested the pattern for me:

Eleanor Thompson of  NELNANANDNORA

 
 Samatha Overcashier of Simply Samatha

Michelle Westlund of CROCHET BETWEEN TWO WORLDS