Bunny Scarf with Pockets

This little scarf worked in soft acrylic chunky yarn can be made for either a girl or a boy.  To make a little boy bunny, remove the flower and add a tuft of yarn hair.

The pocket behind the bunny face will keep little hands warm on a cold day, and are the ideal place to hide a few extra Easter treats.

The pattern is available in my Ravelry Store (HERE)

Fireworks Doily / Mandala

Last Friday an idea for a Doily / Mandala popped into my head.........

 

Doodling the design just was not enough and I had to get crocheting on the idea immediately (completely ignoring the heaps of WIP's staring at me accusingly!!)

My friend Angela said that this reminded her of FIREWORKS!

I wrote up the pattern, hooking up another doily and doing the tutorial at the same time!

Due to a supply problem  my dwindling stash of Raeesah Cotton cannot be replaced.   I love the "rustic" look and feel of the Raeesah, even though it is really splitty and a bit of a pain to work with.   Using a crochet hook with a short rounded hook seems to minimise this problem though.

I topped up my stash with an order of MERCERIZED COTTON  (Elle Premier DK) instead (dance of joy!!)

Determined to finish the few odds left over from my previous stash of Elle Premier,  I made three more "Fireworks" doilies / mandalas (this pattern is addictive)...... 

a blue-ish one

 a pinkish one

and a purplish one

"FIREWORKS"   PATTERN:

Pattern Terms:  US 

Yarn: 
1.  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK (100% cotton)
2.  Elle Premier Cotton DK


Hook:  4.00mm 

(Use whichever yarn blend or thread count you like)
 
Size:    43cm (17 inches)

Skill Level:  Intermediate

The print friendly version of this pattern can be found HERE

Special Stitches:  

Triple Triple Crochet Cluster (trtrc cl) = yoh (yarn over hook) x4;   insert hook into correct space, yoh, draw back through space;  draw through 2 loops four times, leaving last two on hook;   make the second trtrc the same way;   three loops on hook, then draw through last three loops to form your cluster. 

Triple Crochet Cluster (trc cl) = yoh x2;   insert hook into correct space, yoh, draw back through spacedraw through 2 loops twice, leaving last two on hook;   make a second trc the same way;   three loops on hook, then draw through last three loops to form your cluster.

Foundation:  7ch,  sl st into 1st ch to form circle OR make a magic ring

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  23dc into circle;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (24dc).   Break off yarn.

Row 2:   Join yarn into top of any dc;    6ch, 1 trtrc (1st cluster), 6ch;  (skip 1 dc,   trtrc cl into next dc,   6ch) x 11, sl st into top of 1st cluster to close (12 x trtrc clusters).    Break off yarn.

Row 3:   Join yarn in any 6ch space;    3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same space, 2ch;   (6dc into next 6ch space, 2ch) x 11 (12 x 6dc groups);   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 4:    Join yarn in 1st dc of any 6dc group;    3ch, (1dc into next dc) x5,  4ch;   [(1dc into next dc) x 6, 4ch] x 11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join yarn in any 4ch space;   6ch, 1trtrc (1st cluster), 13ch, 1trtrc cl into same space;   [(1trtrc cl, 13ch, 1trtrc cl) into next 4ch space] x 11;   sl st into top of first cluster to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 6:  Join yarn in any 13ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 11dc into same space (12dc group), 1ch;  (12dc into next 13ch space, 1ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 7:   Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 12dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x9 (10dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 1ch space between 12dc groups,  4ch);   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 12dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x9;  (4ch, 1sc into 1ch space between 12dc groups, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 8:   Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 10dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x7 (8dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x2, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 10dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x7;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x2, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 9:   Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 8dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x5 (6dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x3, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 8dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x5;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x3, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 10:  Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 6dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x3 (4dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x4, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 6dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x3;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x4, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 11:  Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 4dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  1dc into next dc (2dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x5, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 4dc group;  1dc into next dc;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x5, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 12 (Edging):  Join yarn in centre of any 2dc group   [4ch, 1trc (counts as trc cluster),  (4ch, trc cl) x3] into same place as join;

{1ch, skip next 4ch space, 1sc into next 4ch space, 1ch;  [(1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch into next 4ch space);  (work 1st stitch of trc cl into the same space;   work 2nd stitch of trc cl into next 4ch space);   (4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl into same 4ch space as 2nd part of last trc cl);  1ch 1sc into next 4ch space. 1ch, skip next 4ch space;  [(1trc cl, 4ch) x3;  1trc cl] into centre of 2dc group} x11;

1ch, skip next 4ch space, 1sc into next 4ch space, 1ch;  [(1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch into next 4ch space);  (work 1st stitch of trc cl into the same space;   work 2nd stitch of trc cl into next 4ch space);   (4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl into same 4ch space as 2nd part of last trc cl), 1ch 1sc into next 4ch space, 1ch,  skip next 4ch space, sl st into top of start cluster to close.    Break off yarn

*******************

A huge thank you to the wonderful ladies who tested this pattern for me:

Laura Brozo:   "Just Laura" on Facebook

Michelle Westlund:   CROCHET BETWEEN WORLDS

Eleanor Thomson:  NELNANANDNORA

Holiday Ripple Blanket

In an effort to use up all the less than full balls of  yarn as well as the "odds" and "uglies" in my DK Acrylic stash, I rolled two 8ply strands together to make some "Super Bulky" 16ply yarn!

Note:   It may be easier to "double-strand-as-you-go" - by that I mean crocheting the yarns together as you go and not pre-rolling as I did!

After a bit of trial and error I came up with this ripple pattern for a blanket!  Since there was quite an odd collection of colours and quantities, I crocheted random stripes!

This "Super Bulky" yarn works up in no time at all and is the perfect project for a rainy weekend!

 

I estimate having used approximately 1800g to 2000g of yarn.

I decided to keep the fun element by not bordering the blanket and making a beaded fringe with the tails instead!

The fringe adds such a happy hippie vibe to the blanket!   (I will be posting a pattern for a border for those of you who do not like the fringe idea!)

HOLIDAY RIPPLE BLANKET

The Print Friendly version of this pattern can be found HERE

Pattern Terms:   US 

Materials:   2 strands of DK worked together (equivalent to 16ply OR Super Bulky yarn)

Quantity:  Approximately 1800g to 2000g of DK (8ply / light worsted weight yarn)

Hook:  9.00mm

Measurements:   180cm x 180cm (216 plus 4 ch over 120 rows)

Stitches used:    chain and double crochet (US) (for UK readers this would be chain and treble)


The pattern is worked in multiples of 9 plus 4

(If you have never rippled before it is a good idea to make yourself a practice swatch - 18ch (2 x 9) plus 4ch = 22ch)

My son made this fabulous chart to explain the pattern:

(Leave a fairly long tail with every colour change - this will be used to make our fringe.)

Foundation Chain:   216 plus 4 (220) 

Row 1:  Into fourth chain from hook work 1dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next ch)x3;   skip 2ch ("valley" formed);  [(1dc into next ch)x3;   (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into next ch ("mountain" formed);   (1dc into next ch)x3;    skip 2ch] repeat to last 6ch;   skip 2ch;   (1dc into next ch)x3;   2dc into last chain;   turn work

Row 2:  3ch, 1dc into first dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next dc) x3;   skip 2dc [(1dc into next dc) x3;  (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into 1ch space (at the peak of the "mountain" on the previous row);  (1dc into next dc)x3;  skip 2dc (across the "valley" on the previous row)] repeat to last 4dc;  (1dc into next dc) x3;   2dc into last dc (this "dc" is actually the 3ch start at the beginning of the previous row)

Keep repeating Row 2 until your workpiece is the required length.

Beaded Fringe

Thread beads of choice randomly onto the tail at the end of one row and the tail at the start of the next row.

Hold one tail between the thumb and forefinger of your left hand and the other between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand.     Start twisting the yarn tighter in the same direction as the twist of the yarn tails.

Bring the twisted tails together and gently twist them in the opposite direction.  Knot the ends

Holiday Ripple: Print Friendly Pattern

Pattern Terms:   US 

Materials:   2 strands of DK worked together (equivalent to 16ply OR Super Bulky yarn)

Quantity:  Approximately 1800g to 2000g of DK (8ply / light worsted weight yarn)

Hook:  9.00mm

Measurements:   180cm x 180cm (216 plus 4 ch over 120 rows)

Stitches used:    chain and double crochet (US) (for UK readers this would be chain and treble)

The pattern is worked in multiples of 9 plus 4

(If you have never rippled before it is a good idea to make yourself a practice swatch - 18ch (2 x 9) plus 4ch = 22ch)

My son made this fabulous chart to explain the pattern:

 (Leave a fairly long tail with every colour change - this will be used to make our fringe.)

Foundation Chain:   216 plus 4 (220) 

Row 1:  Into fourth chain from hook work 1dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next ch)x3;   skip 2ch ("valley" formed);  [(1dc into next ch)x3;   (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into next ch ("mountain" formed);   (1dc into next ch)x3;    skip 2ch] repeat to last 6ch;   skip 2ch;   (1dc into next ch)x3;   2dc into last chain;   turn work

Row 2:  3ch, 1dc into first dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next dc) x3;   skip 2dc [(1dc into next dc) x3;  (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into 1ch space (at the peak of the "mountain" on the previous row);  (1dc into next dc)x3;  skip 2dc (across the "valley" on the previous row)] repeat to last 4dc;  (1dc into next dc) x3;   2dc into last dc (this "dc" is actually the 3ch start at the beginning of the previous row)

Keep repeating Row 2 until your workpiece is the required length.

Beaded Fringe

Thread beads of choice randomly onto the tail at the end of one row and the tail at the start of the next row.

Hold one tail between the thumb and forefinger of your left hand and the other between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand.     Start twisting the yarn tighter in the same direction as the twist of the yarn tails.

Bring the twisted tails together and gently twist them in the opposite direction.  Knot the ends

Cosmos Fields Shawl: Pattern

The Cosmos Fields Shawl pattern has been written with my "novice" readers in mind - (with more detailed explanations on how to get from row to row etc).

This is a fun project for any skill level though - super to take along on holiday (I just did) or for in front of the telly!  

(A print-friendly version of this pattern can be found HERE)

The pattern is designed to be worked in a 100% acrylic "economy" DK (8ply / light worsted weight) yarn, but it works up quite wonderfully in a more luxurious yarn! 

The stitch composition is very uncomplicated - making the pattern suitable for both variegated and solid colour yarns!

Various yarn blends also work well with this pattern – Courtelle, 100% wool, acrylic/wool blends and  cottons.

Thinner yarns may be used – just keep repeating the pattern row (Row 3) until you reach the required size.     Always make sure you end on an odd number of rows before starting your edging!

Thicker yarns may also be used, such as chunky (12 - 14ply) or super chunky (14 - 16ply).

Notes:

Right Side / Wrong Side:     

We will talk about every odd row as the right side (eg, rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 etc are the right side);    

and every even row as the wrong side (eg, rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 etc)

Side Increases are made at the beginning AND end of every row.   

The increase of 2dc at the beginning of a row is made into the 1ch space at the end of the previous row.    

The increase of 2dc at the end of the row is made into the 4ch loop which is formed at the start of the previous row (you will note that at the beginning of a row I say that the 4ch counts as 1dc, 1ch, so this  is not "seen" as a 4ch loop when working the next row but as a 1ch space and then 1dc at the very end of the row - when writing the pattern I will NOT say to crochet into the 4ch loop at the end of the row - I DO say to crochet into the 1ch space at the end of the row   

The Point (or corner) is formed in your very first row (2dc, 3ch, 2dc).     

Throughout the shawl you will work 2dc, 3ch, 2dc into the 3ch space from the previous row.     (Effectively increasing your stitch count over the point or corner with 2dc on every row)

If your increases are correct you WILL have a perfect triangle.    

If the triangle pulls outward - you are increasing too much.   

If the triangle pulls inward (like a kite) you are increasing too little.

An easy "check" is to count your stitches - each row should increase with a multiple of six:   Row 1 = 6;   Row 2 = 12;   Row 3 = 18;   Row 4 = 24;   Row 5 = 30 and so on.    Once you have the first few rows correct you probably won't need to count any more.

Triangle:    The shawl is worked seamlessly (in one piece) from the top to the bottom - your first row being the top of the shawl which will lie behind your neck and the last row being the bottom which will hang down over your back.

Stitches:   We are using five basic stitches only for the shawl - chain (ch);  single crochet (sc); half double crochet (hdc) and double crochet (dc) (US terms); 

and then also a slip stitch (sl st) on the edging;     

UK CROCHETERS will be using a double crochet (dc) (single crochet in US);  half treble (htr) (half double crochet in US) and a treble (tr) (double crochet in US).

COSMOS FIELDS SHAWL:    PATTERN

Yarn:    Lollipop DK (100% Acrylic)

Colours:  Avo Green;   Khaki;   Saxe Blue;   Violet;   Plum  (The Lollipop is imported from Turkey - but I have no idea what it is called outside of South Africa. There are however, similar colours in the Stylecraft Special DK - Lime, Meadow, Cloud Blue, Lavender and Plum)

Stripe Composition:

1 row of each:    Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 1 - 5)

2 rows of each:  Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (Rows 6 - 15)

3 rows of each:   Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 16 - 30)

4 rows of each:  Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum (rows 31 - 50)

1 row of each:  Avo; Khaki, Saxe Blue, Violet, Plum
(rows 51 - 55) 

1 row Avo (row 56)
1 row Saxe Blue (row 57)
1 row Khaki (row 58)
1 row Violet (row 59)
1 row Saxe Blue (row 60)
1 row Khaki (row 61)
1 row Avo (row 62) 

Hook:   5.50mm 

Foundation:  crochet 6ch

Row 1:     Into first chain (the 6th chain from your hook) 

[crochet (2dc, 3ch, 2dc - this forms the point of your shawl), 1ch, 1dc]

(turn your work so that you are now working along the "wrong side")

 

Row 2:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch)

2dc into 1ch sp

1dc between the next two dc

[2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp (point formed)]

1dc between next two dc;   (2dc, 1ch, 1dc) into 1ch sp at end of row

(turn your work so that you are now working along the "right side")

Row 3:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;   1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into point;  1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 1ch,  1dc into 1ch sp at end of row
(turn your work) 

Rows 4 - 55:  Repeat Row 3

(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the red text for the next 52 Rows)


Border:

Row 56:  3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp;  [3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] 

repeat this with the last hdc being made into the 3ch space of the point (corner); 3ch; 1hdc into same 3ch space;   

[3ch, skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1hdc into the 3rd space] repeat this until there are 3dc posts left at the end of the row;   2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row. 

(turn your work) 

Row 57:  4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;  [3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this until you reach the point (corner)

Into the 3ch space work 3dc, 3ch, 3dc;

[3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this up to and including the last 3ch space;

2dc; 1ch, 1dc into the chain space at the end of the row (turn your work)

Row 58:   3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 2hdc into 1ch sp;   3ch, skip 2dc;  (1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch);    repeat this with the last 3ch repeat being made just before the point (corner)

1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc into the 3ch space of the point (corner);

(3ch; 1hdc into space before next 3dc group; 3ch) repeat this to the space before the the last 3dc group;

1hdc into the space after the last 3dc group;   3ch;

2hdc, 1ch, 1hdc into the chain space at the end of the row.

Row 59:  Repeat Row 57


Row 60:  Repeat Row 58


Row 61:  Repeat Row 57

Row 62:  Into the 1ch space at the start of the row work 3dc;  (3ch, 1sc into next sp;  3ch, 2dc into next  sp) repeat this with your last 2dc being into the corner 3ch;  3ch, and crochet another 2dc into the corner;

(3ch, 1sc into next sp,  3ch, 2dc into next sp) repeat to last sp;   3ch, 2dc into 1ch space at end of row.

(We are now going to do the base edging - the longest side of the triangle which is formed as you do your rows)

Into same 1ch space work 3hdc; 

sl st into side of first dc post, (2ch, 1hdc, sl st into side of next dc post) repeat to last dc post, 3hdc, sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to end.

I would just like to say a very special THANK YOU to the following ladies for checking my pattern for me:

Joy Merrill (JOYFUL YARNS'S PATTERN STORE)

Lisa Kingsley (LISA KINGSLEY'S PATTERN STORE)

Michelle Westlund (CROCHET BETWEEN WORLDS)

Eleanor Thomson (Nelnanandnora)