Stardust Crochet

At the beginning of February when we had our Stylecraft Blogstars Meetup (with the non UK girls on Skype), Stylecraft gave us some gorgeous new baby yarns.      

I have been itching to use the WONDERSOFT STARDUST which comes in six oh-so-pretty pastel colours, with an opalescent thread adding a hint of sparkle!   

Our beautiful granddaughter, Madison, arrived on 22 February, weighing in at a teeny 2.8kg and measuring 48cm.     Her birth measurements were almost an exact match to those of her mommy (my daughter).    

Winter is fast approaching here in the Southern Hemisphere and the "Stardust" was just begging to be turned into a little cardigan for my favourite teeny human!

I came up with a quick and easy little cardigan pattern (one size only - 3-6 months) - worked in dc rows from the yoke down, with a sweet braid detail.   

I wrecked the yarn for the first one a bit (pulling out rows to adjust stitch counts etc) - but once I had that sorted churning out the next one was a breeze! 

The Stardust is soft and super to work with, giving really neat stitch definition, and......... I had the perfect matching Owl Buttons!!!

Warning - pattern is addictive.     I have made FIFTEEN so far!!   7 for Madison, 1 for a friend's little girl, and 7 to be donated (more pics in my next post).

I wrote the pattern up in record time (for me) and my dear friend Pat from SUNSHINE AND A SEWING BASKET tested it for me!     

If you would like to make one (or a few) you can find the pattern HERE!!

Happy hooking!

Quick and Easy Baby Cardigan

PATTERN TERMS:   US

Skill Level:  Beginner / Easy

Approximate Time:  3 - 6 hours

Yarn:   DK (8 ply / Light Worsted Weight) Acrylic;  Courtelle;  Acrylic / Wool;  Acrylic / Wool / Tweed

Yarn suggestions: 
Stylecraft Wondersoft Stardust DK
Stylecraft Wondersoft DK
Stylecraft Special DK
Stylecraft Merry-go-round DK
Elle Family Knit Print DK
Elle Family Knit DK
Elle Pullskein DK
Elle Pullskein Print, DK

Amount Required:  300m / 330y (approximately 100g depending on yarn choice)

Hook Size:  4.00mm (Use whatever hook size suits your choice of yarn and your tension)

Size:  3 – 6 months

3 Small Buttons
Length of ribbon (optional)

PATTERN NOTES:   
This little cardi is worked in rows from the yoke down.  The last dc of each row is worked into the third chain of the beginning stitch of the previous row – since the beginning 3ch counts as 1dc, I count it as such in the pattern.  The front panels and the back are worked in one piece after the armholes have been made.    The sleeves are crocheted onto the armholes and are worked in the round.
Decorate the Eyelet Row according to your preference with either a crochet braid, or a length of threaded ribbon;  Or leave it as is!
NOTE:  Odd number rows are worked on the right side (RS).     Even number rows are worked on the wrong side (WS).

Foundation:   46ch

Row 1: 1dc into 4^th ch from hook (counts as 2dc); *2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 2dc* repeat *to* 13 times more.

Row 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc; *2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 3dc* repeat *to* 13 times more.

Row 3:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 2dc; *2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 4dc* repeat *to* 12 times more;  2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 3dc.

Row 4:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 2dc;  *2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 5dc* repeat *to* 12 times more;  2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 4dc.

Row 5:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 3dc;  *2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 6dc* repeat *to* 12 times more;  2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 5dc.

Row 6:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 4dc;  *2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 7dc* repeat *to*12 times more; 2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 5dc.

Row 7:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 4dc;  *2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 8dc* repeat *to*12 times more;  2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next dc.

Row 8 – Eyelet Row:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc;  *1ch, 1dc into next dc* repeat *to* 69 times more (70 x 1ch spaces).

Row 9:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc; *2dc into next 1ch sp, 3dc into next 1ch sp* repeat *to* 4 times more (2dc + 25dc over 10 x 1ch spaces);
Skip 15 x 1ch spaces (1^st armhole)
*2dc into next 1ch sp, 3dc into next 1ch sp* repeat *to* 9 times more (50dc over 20 x 1ch spaces)
Skip 15 x 1ch spaces (2^nd armhole)
*2dc into next 1ch sp, 3dc into next 1ch sp* repeat *to* 4 times more, 1dc into 3^rd of beginning ch (start of previous row);   (25dc over 10ch spaces + 1dc).  (103dc)

Row 10:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 102dc.

Rows 11 – 24:   Repeat Row 10.   
Fasten off.

Left Sleeve:   With RS back panel of the cardigan facing you, working into the armhole ........

Round 1:   Join yarn around post of last dc of the back panel (Row 9);  2ch, 1dc around the post of the first dc of the left front panel (Row 9) (counts as 2dc tog = 1dc); 2dc into each of next 15 x 1ch spaces.   Sl st into top of 2dc tog to close (31dc).

Round 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 30dc.   Sl st into 3^rd of beginning 3ch to close.

Rounds 3 – 13:  Repeat Round 2

Round 14:  1ch (counts as 1sc), 1sc into each of next 30sc.   Sl st into beginning 1ch to close.

Rounds 15 & 16:   Repeat Round 14

Fasten off.

Right Sleeve:  with RS right front panel facing you, working into the armhole

Round 1:   Join yarn around post of last dc of the right front panel (Row 9);  2ch, 1dc around the post of the first dc of the back panel (Row 9) (counts as 2dc tog = 1dc); 2dc into each of next 15 x 1ch spaces.   Sl st into top of 2dc tog to close (31dc).

Rounds 2 – 16:  Repeat Rounds 2 – 16 as for left sleeve.

Edging & Buttonholes: Worked with RS facing throughout.   Do not turn work.   Rows referred to correspond to the row number in the pattern – not to row count.

Row 1:  With RS facing, join yarn in any dc along bottom edge.   1ch (counts as 1sc), 1sc in each dc to corner, 3sc around dc post, 2sc around each dc post along right front panel to Row 1;  3sc around dc post of Row 1;  1sc into each space between dc along neck edge to last dc, 3sc around dc post, 2sc around each dc post along left front panel to Row 16;  1sc into each dc along bottom edge to beginning 1ch.    Sl st into 1ch to close

Row 2:  1ch, 1sc into each sc to corner, 3sc into 2^nd sc of Row 1 corner 3sc.    1sc into each sc along right front panel to Row 12; 2ch, skip 2sc (Row 11), 2sc into each of next 6sc (Rows 10, 9 &8), 2ch,  skip 2sc (Row 7); 1sc into each of next 6sc (Rows 6, 5 &4). 2ch, skip 2sc (Row 3) 1sc into each of next 3sc, 3sc into next sc (corner), 1sc into each sc around neck edge, 3sc into 2^nd sc of 3sc corner, 1sc into each sc along side edge, 3sc into into 2^nd sc of 3sc corner, 1sc into each sc along bottom edge to beginning ch.   Sl st into 1ch to close

Row 3:  1ch, 1sc into each sc to corner, 3sc into 2^nd sc of corner, 1sc into each sc along side;  working 3sc into each 2ch buttonhole, 3sc into 2^nd sc of 3sc corner, 1sc into each sc along neck edge, 3sc into 2^nd sc of 3sc corner, 1sc into each sc along side edge to corner, 3sc into 2^nd sc of 2sc corner, 1sc into each sc along bottom edge to beginning ch.   Sl st into 1ch to close.

Fasten off.  Work in yarn tails.  

Sew buttons on to left side of jersey corresponding to Rows 11, 7 and 3.

Row 8 Eyelet Braid:  With RS of left front panel facing, join yarn with a sl st between 2sc of 1^st edging row.   4ch, remove hook from loop, insert hook under 1^st dc post, return loop to hook;  *4ch, remove hook from loop, insert hook under next dc post, return loop to hook* repeat *to* end of eyelet row.   Sl st between 2sc of 1^st edging row on right front panel.   Fasten off

Zooty Owl Cushion CAL (2)

Happy Friday and Hello to all the lovely crocheters who are hooking along with me on this CAL!

This CAL ended November 2015.   The pattern is available in my Ravelry Store.
 
We are going to have some beauties by the time we are done, judging from the photos I have received!!

Elizabeth Koegelenberg is a very enthusiastic crochet-a-long(er) and is making no less than four cushions at the same time!  

 

A lot of people say they "hate" doing their cushion backs as they just want to finish their project once the front is done.   So I thought we would get most of the cushion back squared away before we started with the fun bits!

The back is made from two double crochet stripe sections.   

My stripe composition is 5 rows and 6 colours:

Section 1:  Beige;  Apricot;  Coral;  Dark Red;  Blue;  Light Blue.
Section 2:  Apricot;  Beige;  Light Blue.

Feel free to play around with the your stripe composition for the cushion back, or even use a solid colour!

Remember to post your progress shots on my Zooty Owl Facebook page so that I can include them in next week's post!

Have fun crocheting your cushion backs and please join me next week for Part 3:   Owl Features and Embellishments (the FUN part!!!!)

Zooty Owl Cushion CAL (1)

This CAL ended November 2015.   The pattern is now available in my RAVELRY STORE
 
Hello and welcome to Part 1 of the ZOOTY OWL CUSHION CAL!

I have chosen the following colours to make a pair of matching cushions:

The Introduction to this CAL can be found HERE

This week we will be starting with the Cushion Front - crocheting the Body of the Owl (which is a big circle) and then squaring that.

**********************************************************

PATTERN TERMS:   US

YARN & HOOKS:   
The pattern is suitable for either DK (8ply / light worsted) weight yarns and a 4.50mm hook OR 
Worsted Weight (10ply / Aran) and a 5.50mm hook.

Next Friday, 9 October 2014 we will be crocheting the Cushion Back.   

Please feel free to share your photos on my ZOOTY OWL FACEBOOK PAGE  

Photos shared during the week will be included in the Gallery for the next week's post!

I hope you have loads of fun making this cushion and look forward to getting together with you again next week!!!

Zooty Owl Cushion CAL: October 2015

This CAL ended November 2015 - the pattern is available in my RAVELRY STORE

Thank you all for the wonderful response to the idea of hosting an OWL CUSHION CROCHET-A-LONG!

It gives me great pleasure to announce my 4th CAL (crochet-a-long):   
THE ZOOTY OWL CUSHION CAL!!!!!

The CAL will be held during the month of October 2015 and I will post a pattern and a photo tutorial every Friday - starting this Friday!


I added a bit of oomph to the Jumbo Owl Cushion to make it more fun to crochet and to make the cushion more durable.

My patterns are all written in US TERMS

The pattern is suitable for DK (8ply / light worsted) weight yarns and a 4.50mm hook OR Worsted Weight (10ply / Aran) and a 5.50mm hook.      

You can use an assortment of scraps to make your cushion, or choose a special colour palette, the choice is yours!

I have used a small amount of "Eyelash" or "Feather" yarn to add a bit of detail to the wings and owl belly - this is entirely optional, but it does give the body a bit of dimension.

For my "showcase" cushion I have used a selection of 100% Acrylic DK Elle Yarns (made by our South African Saprotex Mills) in six main colours: Apricot, Coral, Pink, Light Blue, Blue, Deep Red and Beige (with small amounts of white and navy for the eyes)

My colours were picked randomly for an "autumn feel" with a bit of pep (since this cushion is made from 100% Acrylic).    

If you would like to make a cushion to add some warmth to your autumn decor, you may want to select your colours from the Pantone Autumn Palette for 2015:

For those in the Southern Hemisphere a cool cotton cushion made with colours selected from the Pantone Spring Palette for 2015 may be more practical:

You could even be bold and mix the two palettes up a bit, depending on what you have in your stash!

You will need a minimum of three colours to make the design work (as well as small bits of contrasting colours for the owl's beak and feet, white and navy or black for the eyes).    There is no limit to the maximum amount of colours used - go wild!!

I am looking so forward to having you join me for this CAL on Friday!!!!!!!

Jumbo Owl Cushion

I have been finishing up the very last little bits of yarn from my mom's stash by making preemie blankets to donate.    

Having used up all the "nice" yarn, a heap of scrap yarn in a really yucky selection of colours was left over.     A good deal of this yarn is what was known waaaaaay back as "HUNKY" - a 24ply yarn!!   (In today's terms it is known as JUMBO yarn). 

I added extra strands to the thinner yarn to make everything 24ply.    My original idea was to make a blanket with a mix of stripes and squares - I thought I would work an owl square surrounded by a few granny squares, but it turned out HUGE!!

I had already worked a fair amount of the stripes and was not in the mood to frog them!    I was undecided whether to proceed with the blanket or to just make two owl cushions.    Most people liked the cushion idea.  

This was such a "silly" project that turned out to be such FUN!      I added some "eyelash" yarn for the "feathers", and two over the top ruffle flowers and leaves to fill in the open space at the bottom of the cushion.

For the back of the cushion I overlapped two rectangular stripe pieces and then did a buttonhole row to fasten the cushion.

The back and front are joined by a round of single crochet and then finished off with a block stitch edging.

Only one of the cushions is complete, the other is about halfway.      For the second a different colour selection will have to be used.

I am actually thinking of hosting a little CAL, breaking it up into manageable portions over a period of weeks (say over the 5 Fridays in October??).      Is it too late in the year???    How many people would join in??

Please leave me a comment so that I can decide whether to proceed now - or leave it until the new year!

Primrose and Clover

One of my earliest childhood memories is of me sitting on a little footstool next to my great granny watching her crochet.      She would often stop making her fine intricate designs and make up a little design for me to practice.

I came across some of these motifs in a ziplock bag amongst my LATE MOM'S STASH

I gave the motifs my own little twist, and made them into a sweet little tray cloth with a clover picot border!

The pattern is available in my RAVELRY STORE

Readers will receive a 30% discount on the purchase of this pattern until Sunday, 13 September 2015, using Coupon Code PRM0001

This pattern is suitable for table mats, tray cloths, table runners, tablecloths and even blankets.     Just keep on adding squares until it is the size you require and then crochet the border and edging!!

Inspired by Colour!

One of the questions I am most frequently asked is "how do you choose your colours?".

Unless you have had a class or two in colour theory or have an "eye" for colour, deciding what colours to use can be VERY frustrating!

A quick and easy way to build up a small "stash" of colours that work well together, is to pick out a few balls of variegated yarn.

Don't think about it too much - just something that catches your eye! 

Buy a ball or two of each of the colours in the variegated yarn and you will have a lovely little "no stress" colour palette!

LOVE!     LOVE!    LOVE, variegated yarn!

The Neon Shawl

I crochet very fast and never have a problem finishing something quickly or getting my orders out on time!

This does, however, make me a very, very bad blogger!     Once my hands get going I forget to take photos or write down the pattern.   At this stage there are almost 60 patterns on my to-do list.   

One of my resolutions for 2015 is to work through THOSE old patterns (and ideas) before I allow myself to come up with anything else (not sure how much success I will have there - but I am determined to persist!!!)

The Neon Shawl is something I made in OCTOBER 2013.     It is one of those practical pieces that matches with most of my casual clothing - and it is just perfect to drape around the shoulders while socialising outside at night!  

The Neon effect is achieved by alternating colour stripes between dark grey and black stripes.     Very simple!      You can use any DK acrylic!    The colours do not need to be an exact match, and you will find that most brands stock colours similar to the ones I used.

The pattern is exactly the same as the Cosmos Fields Shawl (apart from the stripe composition and edging) - so here goes:

THE NEON SHAWL PATTERN


Yarn:    100% Acrylic DK

Colours: Black,  Dark Grey,  Pink, Bright Pink, Peach, Red, Lemon, Lime, Mint, Jade, Aqua, Turquoise, Baby Blue, Lilac

Special Stitch

Picot:    A picot is formed by crocheting 3ch then sl st into the top of the last dc

Stripe Composition:
Rows 1 - 4 Dark Grey
Row 5 - Pink
Rows  6 - 7 Dark Grey
Rows 8 - 9  Black
Row 10  Bright Pink
Rows 11 - 12 Black
Rows 13 - 14 Dark Grey
Row 15 Peach
Rows 16 - 17 Dark Grey
Rows 18 - 19 Black
Row 20 - Red
Rows 21 - 22 Black
Rows 23 - 34 Dark Grey
Row 25 Lemon
Rows 26 - 27 Dark Grey
Rows 28 - 29 Black
Row 30 Lime
Rows 31 - 32 Black
Rows 33 - 34 Dark Grey
Row 35 Mint
Rows 36 - 37 Dark Grey
Rows 38 - 29 Black
Row 40 Jade
Rows 41 - 42 Black
Rows 43 - 44 Dark Grey
Row 45 Aqua
Rows 46 - 47 Dark Grey
Rows 48 - 49 Black
Row 50 - Turquoise
Rows 51 - 52 Black
Rows 53 - 54  Dark Grey
Rows 55 Baby Blue
Rows 56  Grey
Row 57 Lilac
Rows 58 - 63 Black


Hook:   5.50mm 

Foundation & Rows 1 - 55 Follow the pattern for the COSMOS FIELDS SHAWL (using the above stripe composition) repeating the last row twice more for Rows 56 - 57.

Border:

Rows 58 - 59 (follow the pattern for Rows 56 - 57 of the Cosmos Fields Shawl)

Row 60 - 62:   4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;  [3dc (3dc group) into space before next dc group] repeat this until you reach the point (corner);    (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) into corner 3ch;  [3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this to the end of the row - working 2dc; 1ch, 1dc into the chain space at the end of the row 

Edging:  3ch (counts as 1dc), (1dc, picot, 1dc into 1ch space at start of row);  (sl st into space before next dc group;   2dc, picot, 1dc into same space as sl st] repeat this until you reach the point (corner);    (sl st into corner 3ch;   2dc, picot, 1dc into same space as sl st);  (sl st into space before next dc group;   2dc, picot, 1dc into same space as sl st) repeat this to the last 3 stitches and sl st into the 1ch space at the end of the row 

(We are now going to do the base edging - the longest side of the triangle which is formed as you do your rows) Into same 1ch space work 3hdc;  sl st into side of first dc post, (2ch, 1hdc, sl st into side of next dc post) repeat to last dc post, 3hdc, sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to end.

Granny Star Pattern: Print Friendly Version

GRANNY STAR PATTERN

My patterns are all written in US TERMS

The Photo Tutorial for this Pattern can be found HERE


 


YARN:  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK
(This is a matter of choice - as gauge does not really matter here, you could use anything from cotton floss to t-shirt yarn, depending on how you are going to use your stars)

HOOK SIZE:  4.00mm
(here again use whatever hook you are comfortable with for your choice of yarn)

Foundation:   5ch, sl st into 1st chain to form a circle.

Row 1:  3ch into same place as sl st (counts as 1dc), 2dc into the circle, 3ch;   (3dc into the circle, 3ch) x4;  sl st into the top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 2:   Join yarn in any 3ch sp;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same place as join;   (3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 3ch sp) x4;  sl st into the top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn.


Row 3:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 4ch, 3dc into same place as join; 1sc spike into top of "middle" dc on row 1;  (3dc, 4ch, 3dc into next 3ch sp;   1sc spike into top of "middle dc on row 1) x4;   sl st into the top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn.

Row 4:  Join yarn in space to the left of any sc spike; 1ch (counts as 1sc) in same sp as join;  1sc in space between next 2dc;   3sc into 4ch sp;   15ch, sl st into top of last sc; 3sc into 4ch sp;  1sc in space between next 2dc;  (1sc into sp before dc spike;   1 picot; 1sc into sp after dc spike;  1sc in space between next 2dc;   3sc into 4ch sp;   1 picot; 3sc into 4ch sp;  1sc in space between next 2dc) x 4;   1 picot, sl st into 1ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Note:   A picot is formed by crocheting 3ch then sl st into the top of the last sc, in exactly the same way as the 15ch loop is made.     The 15ch loop can be replaced with a 3ch picot if you want to use the star for an applique. 

Work in ends.  Depending on the yarn used and your tension you may need to block your star (a puff of steam and a gentle flattening with palm is usually sufficient)

Happy Days Mandala

Coffee Cotton is a Cotton, Pan Fibre, Coffee Extract Blend which does not split and makes for a very neat stitch. 

Sadly the colours are not very vibrant and there are only 9 colours to choose from.

Last week I worked through my Coffee Cotton stash by crocheting a few quick and easy mandalas. 

I made this one for my daughter's craft room in her lovely new home:

I had the idea to use these to make up small gifts, by wrapping cellophane around a small potted herb, threading ribbon through the "meshy" part of the mandala and then tying that around the pot. 


 

I have not as yet been able to find small potted plants (ideally herbs) and have therefore not been able to test my idea as yet!!

 

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% cotton (or any cotton blend) (I used "Coffee Cotton" - a blend of cotton, pan fibre and coffee extract)
 
HOOK: 4.00mm

SIZE:  23cm in diameter

PATTERN TERMS:   US

This is the pattern I used as the focal point for the Happy Days Mandala Square.   (Note:  Row by Row photos of the first 11 rows can be found HERE)

Foundation:  3ch, sl st to form a circle OR make a magic circle

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  11 dc into circle;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc)

Row 2:  Join yarn into any sp between dc,  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc in same space as join (2dc grouping);  [2dc into each sp between dc  (2dc grouping)] x11;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (24dc)

Row 3:  Join yarn in centre of any 2dc grouping;  4ch (counts as 1trc), 2trc into same space as join;  [3trc into centre of next 2dc grouping (3trc grouping)] x 11, sl st into top of 4ch at start to close (36trc).   Break off yarn.

Row 4:    Join yarn in space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on any 3trc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same space as join;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc post;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings;   [2dc into space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on next 3trc grouping;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc posts;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings] x11; sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (60dc).   Break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join yarn in any dc;  2ch (counts as 1hdc);  (1hdc into each dc) x59;    sl st into top of 2ch at start to close (60hdc).   Break off yarn

Row 6:  Join yarn in any sp between 2 hdc;  4ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  (skip 2sp between hdc;   1sc, 3ch into next sp between hdc) x19;  sl st into 1st of 4ch at start to close.   Break off yarn

Row 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same sp as join (4dc grouping);  [4dc in next 3ch space (4dc grouping)] x19 (20 x 4dc groupings);  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 8:  Join yarn in any sp between 4dc groupings;  5ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  [1sc, 4ch in next space between 4dc groupings] x 19;  sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.  (see photo for Row 6) 

Row 9:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp, 2ch (counts as 1hdc); 4hdc into same sp as join;   [5hdc into next 4ch sp (5hdc grouping)] x19;   sl st into top of 2ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 10:  Join yarn in 1st hdc of any 5hdc grouping,  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc;  2dc into next dc;   (1dc into next dc) x2;  [(1dc into next dc) x2;  2dc into next dc;  (1dc into next dc) x2] x19

Row 11:  Join yarn between any two dc on last row of Mandala, 4ch in same space as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  [skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1sc into the 3rd space, 3ch] repeat all around the circle;  3ch sl st into first chain at start of row (40 x 3ch loops).   Break off yarn

Row 12:  (edging)   Join yarn with a sl st in any 3ch space;   [(1hdc, 2dc, 2trc, 2dc, 1hdc) into next 3ch space;   sl st into next 3ch space) x 19;  (1hdc, 2dc, 2trc, 2dc, 1hdc) into next 3ch space.     Break off yarn and join to first sl st in the row with a yarn needle.