Beach Umbrella Mandala

Pattern Terms:   US

Skill Level:   Easy 

Materials:  600g Raeesah "Cotton Soft" DK (100% Cotton) (Stylecraft Cotton Classique DK is a good alternative) 

Hook:  4.00 mm 

Size:  40cm in diameter

Foundation:  3ch, sl st to form a circle OR make a magic circle

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  11 dc into circle;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc )

Row 2:  Join yarn in sp between any 2 dc posts;   5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch);  (1dc into next space between dc posts, 2ch) x 11.   (12 x 1dc, 2ch).   sl st into third of start 5ch to close.  Break off yarn

Row 3:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same space as join 2ch;  (3dc into next 2ch space, 2ch ) x 11.   (12 x 3dc, 2ch).   sl st into top of start 3ch to close.  Break off yarn

Row 4:   Join yarn in top of first dc on any 3dc grouping;    3ch (counts as 1dc);  2dc into next dc, 1dc into next dc, 2ch;   (1dc into first dc on next 3dc grouping, 2dc into next dc, 1dc into next dc, 2ch) x 11.   (12 x 4dc, 2ch).   sl st into top of start 3ch to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join yarn in top of first dc of any 4dc grouping;   3ch (counts as 1dc),  1dc into next dc;   1dc into space before next dc, 1dc into each of next 2dc, 2ch;  (1dc into each of next 2dc,   1dc into space before next dc;   1dc into each of next 2dc,  2ch) x 11.   (12 x 5dc, 2ch).   sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 6:  Join yarn in top of first dc of any 5dc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc),  1dc into next dc;  2dc into next dc;  1dc into each of next 2dc, 2ch;  (1dc into each of next 2dc,  2dc into next dc;  1dc into each of next 2dc, 2ch).   (12 x 6dc, 2ch).   sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 7:  Join yarn in top of  1st dc of any 6dc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc),  1dc into each of next 2dc,  1dc into space before next dc;  1dc into each of next 3dc, 2ch;  (1dc into each of next 3dc,  1dc into space before next dc;  1dc into each of next 3dc, 2ch) x 11.   (12 x 7dc, 2ch).  sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 8:  Join yarn in top of 1st dc of any 7dc grouping;   3ch (counts as 1dc),  1dc into each of next 2dc, 2dc into next dc;  1dc into each of next 3dc, 2ch;  (1dc into each of next 3dc,  2dc into next dc;  1dc into each of next 3dc, 2ch) x 11.   (12 x 8dc, 2ch).   sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 9:   Join yarn in top of 1st dc of any 8dc grouping:   3ch (counts as 1dc),  1dc into each of next 3dc;  1dc into space before next dc,  1dc into each of next 4dc, 2ch;  (1dc into each of next 4dc, 1dc into space before next dc; 1dc into each of next 4dc, 2ch) x 11.  (12 x 9dc, 2ch),   sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn,.

Row 10:  Join yarn in top of 1st dc of any 9dc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 3dc, 2dc into next dc; 1dc into each of next 4dc, 2ch;  (1dc into each of next 4dc,  2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 4dc, 2ch) x 11.  (12 x 10dc, 2ch).   sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 11:  Join yarn in top of 1st dc of any 10dc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 4dc  1dc into space before next dc;  1dc into each of next 5dc, 2ch;  (1dc into each of next 5dc, 1dc into space before next dc;  1dc into each of next 5dc, 2ch) x11.   (12 x 11dc, 2ch).   sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 12:  Join yarn in top of 1st dc of any 11dc grouping;  3ch(counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 4dc,  2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 5dc, 2ch;  (1dc into each of next 5dc, 2dc into next dc, 1dc into each of next 5dc, 2ch) x11.  (12 x 12dc, 2ch).   sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 13:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;  5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch);  [skip next space between dc posts (skip 2dc posts), 1dc into next space, 2ch] x5;   {1dc into next 2ch space, 2ch,  [skip next space between dc posts (skip 2dc posts), 1dc into next space, 2ch] x5} x11.  sl st into 3rd of start 5ch to close.  Break off yarn. 

Row 14:  Join yarn in any 2ch space;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same sp as join.  (2dc into next 2ch sp;  3dc into next 2ch sp) x35;  2dc into next 2ch sp;  sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   (36 x 3dc, 2dc groups).   Break off yarn. 

Row 15:   Join yarn in space between any 2dc and 3dc grouping:  5ch (counts as 1hdc, 3ch);  (1hdc into next space between groupings, 3ch) x71;  sl st into 2nd of 5ch start to close.   (72 x 3ch spaces).   Break off yarn. 

Row 16:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp above a 2dc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same sp;  (3dc into next 3ch sp;  2dc into next 3ch sp) x35;  3dc into next 3ch sp;  sl st into top of start 3ch to close.   (36 x 2dc, 3dc groups.)   Break off yarn. 

Row 17:   Join yarn in space between any 2dc and 3dc grouping;  7ch (counts as 1trc, 3ch),  (1trc into next space between groupings, 3ch) x71;  sl st into 4th of start 7ch to close.  (72, trc, 3ch loops).   Break off yarn. 

Row 18:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp above a 2dc grouping, (6dc into next 3ch loop;  sl st into next 3ch loop) x35;  sl st into join to close.   (36 x 6dc shell, sl st groupings).   Break off yarn.

Pinwheel Flower

PATTERN TERMS:    US

YARN:  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK


HOOK:  4.00mm

Foundation:   3ch, sl st into start chain to form a ring OR make a magic ring

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 11dc into ring (12 dc), sl st into top of start 3ch to close.


Petals:    Join yarn with a sl st in any dc;  {10ch, sl st into 5th ch from hook (picot formed);  (1trc, 1dc, 1hdc into same dc);
(5ch, sl st into 1st ch (picot formed)] skip next dc;  sl st into next dc;  [10ch, sl st into 5th ch from hook (picot formed];  [1trc, 1dc, 1hdc into same dc]} x5
(5ch, sl st into 1st ch (picot formed); sl st into yarn join.   Break off yarn


Flower Centre:   Join yarn with a sl st around any dc post in Row 1;  [5ch, sl st into 1st ch (picot formed);   skip 1 dc, sl st around next dc post in Row 1] x5 (working your last sl st into the same space as your yarn join.      Break off yarn.

Bunny Scarf with Pockets

This little scarf worked in soft acrylic chunky yarn can be made for either a girl or a boy.  To make a little boy bunny, remove the flower and add a tuft of yarn hair.

The pocket behind the bunny face will keep little hands warm on a cold day, and are the ideal place to hide a few extra Easter treats.

The pattern is available in my Ravelry Store (HERE)

The Neon Shawl

I crochet very fast and never have a problem finishing something quickly or getting my orders out on time!

This does, however, make me a very, very bad blogger!     Once my hands get going I forget to take photos or write down the pattern.   At this stage there are almost 60 patterns on my to-do list.   

One of my resolutions for 2015 is to work through THOSE old patterns (and ideas) before I allow myself to come up with anything else (not sure how much success I will have there - but I am determined to persist!!!)

The Neon Shawl is something I made in OCTOBER 2013.     It is one of those practical pieces that matches with most of my casual clothing - and it is just perfect to drape around the shoulders while socialising outside at night!  

The Neon effect is achieved by alternating colour stripes between dark grey and black stripes.     Very simple!      You can use any DK acrylic!    The colours do not need to be an exact match, and you will find that most brands stock colours similar to the ones I used.

The pattern is exactly the same as the Cosmos Fields Shawl (apart from the stripe composition and edging) - so here goes:

THE NEON SHAWL PATTERN


Yarn:    100% Acrylic DK

Colours: Black,  Dark Grey,  Pink, Bright Pink, Peach, Red, Lemon, Lime, Mint, Jade, Aqua, Turquoise, Baby Blue, Lilac

Special Stitch

Picot:    A picot is formed by crocheting 3ch then sl st into the top of the last dc

Stripe Composition:
Rows 1 - 4 Dark Grey
Row 5 - Pink
Rows  6 - 7 Dark Grey
Rows 8 - 9  Black
Row 10  Bright Pink
Rows 11 - 12 Black
Rows 13 - 14 Dark Grey
Row 15 Peach
Rows 16 - 17 Dark Grey
Rows 18 - 19 Black
Row 20 - Red
Rows 21 - 22 Black
Rows 23 - 34 Dark Grey
Row 25 Lemon
Rows 26 - 27 Dark Grey
Rows 28 - 29 Black
Row 30 Lime
Rows 31 - 32 Black
Rows 33 - 34 Dark Grey
Row 35 Mint
Rows 36 - 37 Dark Grey
Rows 38 - 29 Black
Row 40 Jade
Rows 41 - 42 Black
Rows 43 - 44 Dark Grey
Row 45 Aqua
Rows 46 - 47 Dark Grey
Rows 48 - 49 Black
Row 50 - Turquoise
Rows 51 - 52 Black
Rows 53 - 54  Dark Grey
Rows 55 Baby Blue
Rows 56  Grey
Row 57 Lilac
Rows 58 - 63 Black


Hook:   5.50mm 

Foundation & Rows 1 - 55 Follow the pattern for the COSMOS FIELDS SHAWL (using the above stripe composition) repeating the last row twice more for Rows 56 - 57.

Border:

Rows 58 - 59 (follow the pattern for Rows 56 - 57 of the Cosmos Fields Shawl)

Row 60 - 62:   4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch), 2dc into 1ch sp;  [3dc (3dc group) into space before next dc group] repeat this until you reach the point (corner);    (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) into corner 3ch;  [3dc (3dc group) into next 3ch space] repeat this to the end of the row - working 2dc; 1ch, 1dc into the chain space at the end of the row 

Edging:  3ch (counts as 1dc), (1dc, picot, 1dc into 1ch space at start of row);  (sl st into space before next dc group;   2dc, picot, 1dc into same space as sl st] repeat this until you reach the point (corner);    (sl st into corner 3ch;   2dc, picot, 1dc into same space as sl st);  (sl st into space before next dc group;   2dc, picot, 1dc into same space as sl st) repeat this to the last 3 stitches and sl st into the 1ch space at the end of the row 

(We are now going to do the base edging - the longest side of the triangle which is formed as you do your rows) Into same 1ch space work 3hdc;  sl st into side of first dc post, (2ch, 1hdc, sl st into side of next dc post) repeat to last dc post, 3hdc, sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to end.

The Rally Scarf

Happy New Year!!!!

In celebration of the New Year my son designed a new logo for me and I am sharing my latest and first pattern for 2015!!!

This scarf is very addictive to make - and being so economical and easy too you could make as many as you feel inspired to!


PATTERN TERMS:   US
My patterns are all written in US terms

I have included this little chart to make it easier for my UK readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.

Skill Level:  Easy

Approximate Time:  3 hours

Yarn:   Any DK (8 ply / Light Worsted Weight)

Acrylic;  Courtelle;  Acrylic / Wool;  Acrylic / Wool / Tweed are all suitable types for this scarf

Amount Required:  100g (2 x 50g balls) / 300metres / 330 yards - this was sufficient across three different types of DK yarn

15g / 45 metres / 50 yards of a contrasting colour for the edging 

Hook Size:  I used a 5.00mm hook

Use whatever hook size suits your choice of yarn and your tension.

Length: 140cm (excluding the braids)

Width:  25cm (from straight edge to centre point)

Elle Rustica DK - Saddle (acrylic / wool / tweed)

Lollipop DK Colours - 0016 (100% Acrylic)

Elle Family Print DK - Sushi (100% Courtelle)

Elle Kidz DK - Dino Dudes (100% Acrylic)

Elle Kidz DK - Magic Potion (100% Acrylic)

PATTERN NOTES:   


This is a "long triangle scarf".    Shaping is done on one side of the scarf only.    The top edge remains straight.

The pattern repeat is 1 row hdc;   1 row dc - worked over Rows 4 - 7 for the "Increase" half of the scarf.

You will be increasing at the start of every dc row.  The last stitch on every hdc row is worked into the 3rd the start 3ch (the increase) where your previous row was dc (if you miss working into this your scarf is going to be oddly shaped)

The pattern repeat of 1 row hdc;   1 row dc  - is worked over Rows 8 - 11 for the "Decrease" half of the scarf.

You will be decreasing at the end of every hdc row.

Foundation:   4ch

Row 1:  1hdc into 3rd ch from hook;   1hdc into next ch (2ch at start counts as 1hdc) = 3hdc;   turn

Row 2:   3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into space between hdc (2dc "V");    2dc into next space between hdc (2dc "V");   turn

  
Row 3:  2ch (counts as 1hdc); 1hdc into "V" ;   2hdc into next "V";  turn

Row 4:   3ch (counts as 1dc increase);  2dc into each "v";   turn

Row 5:  2ch (counts as 1hdc) 1hdc into first "V";  (2hdc into next "V") repeat to last "V";  1hdc into top of 3ch at end of row;   turn

Row 6:  3ch (counts as 1dc increase), 1dc into space before first "v";  2dc into each "v";   turn

Row 7:   2ch (counts as 1hdc) 1hdc into first "V";  (2hdc into next "V") repeat to end of row;   turn

Repeat Rows 4 - 7 until your work is approximately 70cm long, omitting Row 7 on your last repeat (in other words, your last pattern repeat will be Rows 4, 5 and 6)

Row 8 - 2ch (counts as 1hdc) 1hdc into first "V";  (2hdc into next "V") repeat to last "v";   crochet 2hdc together (dec);   turn

Row 9 - 3ch (counts as 1dc);  2dc into each "v" to end of row;   turn

 

Row 10 - 2ch (counts as 1hdc) 1hdc into first "V";  (2hdc into next "V") repeat to "v" before last "v" (2nd last v);   crochet 2hdc together (dec);   1hdc into top of 3ch at start of previous row;   turn

Row 11 - 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into space before first "v" (counts as first "v");  2dc into each "v";   turn

Repeat Rows 8 - 11 until there are 3 stitches left, omitting Row 11 on your last repeat (in other words, your last pattern repeat will be Rows 8, 9 and 10).  Break off yarn.

Edging:   Join contrasting colour to end post on any dc row.    3ch, 1dc into same space as join, skip next hdc row, sl st into side post on next dc row;  (3ch, 1dc into same space as sl st, skip next hdc row, sl st into side post on next dc row) repeat around all edges of scarf ending with a sl st into same place as start

Braids:  Pull a double strand of yarn through a stitch at the end of your scarf (until you have two equal lengths).    Start twisting both lengths in the same direction.   Once they are tightly twisted, hold them together and gently guide them to twist in the opposite direction.    Knot the end of the braid.

I added three of similar (not exact) lengths to each end.

Flowers:   Add a PANSY or a button or two at each end and you are good to go!

**************

Thank you so very much to Leanne Nisha and Laura Brozo for testing the pattern for me, and Michelle Westlund for proof reading the pattern!    

This one was made by Leanne Nisha of GUMNUT CROCHET 

 

Granny Star Pattern: Print Friendly Version

GRANNY STAR PATTERN

My patterns are all written in US TERMS

The Photo Tutorial for this Pattern can be found HERE


 


YARN:  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK
(This is a matter of choice - as gauge does not really matter here, you could use anything from cotton floss to t-shirt yarn, depending on how you are going to use your stars)

HOOK SIZE:  4.00mm
(here again use whatever hook you are comfortable with for your choice of yarn)

Foundation:   5ch, sl st into 1st chain to form a circle.

Row 1:  3ch into same place as sl st (counts as 1dc), 2dc into the circle, 3ch;   (3dc into the circle, 3ch) x4;  sl st into the top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Row 2:   Join yarn in any 3ch sp;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 3ch, 3dc into same place as join;   (3dc, 3ch, 3dc into next 3ch sp) x4;  sl st into the top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn.


Row 3:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc, 4ch, 3dc into same place as join; 1sc spike into top of "middle" dc on row 1;  (3dc, 4ch, 3dc into next 3ch sp;   1sc spike into top of "middle dc on row 1) x4;   sl st into the top of 3ch at start to close;   break off yarn.

Row 4:  Join yarn in space to the left of any sc spike; 1ch (counts as 1sc) in same sp as join;  1sc in space between next 2dc;   3sc into 4ch sp;   15ch, sl st into top of last sc; 3sc into 4ch sp;  1sc in space between next 2dc;  (1sc into sp before dc spike;   1 picot; 1sc into sp after dc spike;  1sc in space between next 2dc;   3sc into 4ch sp;   1 picot; 3sc into 4ch sp;  1sc in space between next 2dc) x 4;   1 picot, sl st into 1ch at start to close;   break off yarn

Note:   A picot is formed by crocheting 3ch then sl st into the top of the last sc, in exactly the same way as the 15ch loop is made.     The 15ch loop can be replaced with a 3ch picot if you want to use the star for an applique. 

Work in ends.  Depending on the yarn used and your tension you may need to block your star (a puff of steam and a gentle flattening with palm is usually sufficient)

Fireworks Doily / Mandala

Last Friday an idea for a Doily / Mandala popped into my head.........

 

Doodling the design just was not enough and I had to get crocheting on the idea immediately (completely ignoring the heaps of WIP's staring at me accusingly!!)

My friend Angela said that this reminded her of FIREWORKS!

I wrote up the pattern, hooking up another doily and doing the tutorial at the same time!

Due to a supply problem  my dwindling stash of Raeesah Cotton cannot be replaced.   I love the "rustic" look and feel of the Raeesah, even though it is really splitty and a bit of a pain to work with.   Using a crochet hook with a short rounded hook seems to minimise this problem though.

I topped up my stash with an order of MERCERIZED COTTON  (Elle Premier DK) instead (dance of joy!!)

Determined to finish the few odds left over from my previous stash of Elle Premier,  I made three more "Fireworks" doilies / mandalas (this pattern is addictive)...... 

a blue-ish one

 a pinkish one

and a purplish one

"FIREWORKS"   PATTERN:

Pattern Terms:  US 

Yarn: 
1.  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK (100% cotton)
2.  Elle Premier Cotton DK


Hook:  4.00mm 

(Use whichever yarn blend or thread count you like)
 
Size:    43cm (17 inches)

Skill Level:  Intermediate

The print friendly version of this pattern can be found HERE

Special Stitches:  

Triple Triple Crochet Cluster (trtrc cl) = yoh (yarn over hook) x4;   insert hook into correct space, yoh, draw back through space;  draw through 2 loops four times, leaving last two on hook;   make the second trtrc the same way;   three loops on hook, then draw through last three loops to form your cluster. 

Triple Crochet Cluster (trc cl) = yoh x2;   insert hook into correct space, yoh, draw back through spacedraw through 2 loops twice, leaving last two on hook;   make a second trc the same way;   three loops on hook, then draw through last three loops to form your cluster.

Foundation:  7ch,  sl st into 1st ch to form circle OR make a magic ring

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  23dc into circle;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (24dc).   Break off yarn.

Row 2:   Join yarn into top of any dc;    6ch, 1 trtrc (1st cluster), 6ch;  (skip 1 dc,   trtrc cl into next dc,   6ch) x 11, sl st into top of 1st cluster to close (12 x trtrc clusters).    Break off yarn.

Row 3:   Join yarn in any 6ch space;    3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same space, 2ch;   (6dc into next 6ch space, 2ch) x 11 (12 x 6dc groups);   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 4:    Join yarn in 1st dc of any 6dc group;    3ch, (1dc into next dc) x5,  4ch;   [(1dc into next dc) x 6, 4ch] x 11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join yarn in any 4ch space;   6ch, 1trtrc (1st cluster), 13ch, 1trtrc cl into same space;   [(1trtrc cl, 13ch, 1trtrc cl) into next 4ch space] x 11;   sl st into top of first cluster to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 6:  Join yarn in any 13ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 11dc into same space (12dc group), 1ch;  (12dc into next 13ch space, 1ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 7:   Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 12dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x9 (10dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 1ch space between 12dc groups,  4ch);   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 12dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x9;  (4ch, 1sc into 1ch space between 12dc groups, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 8:   Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 10dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x7 (8dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x2, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 10dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x7;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x2, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 9:   Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 8dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x5 (6dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x3, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 8dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x5;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x3, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 10:  Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 6dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x3 (4dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x4, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 6dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x3;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x4, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 11:  Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 4dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  1dc into next dc (2dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x5, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 4dc group;  1dc into next dc;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x5, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 12 (Edging):  Join yarn in centre of any 2dc group   [4ch, 1trc (counts as trc cluster),  (4ch, trc cl) x3] into same place as join;

{1ch, skip next 4ch space, 1sc into next 4ch space, 1ch;  [(1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch into next 4ch space);  (work 1st stitch of trc cl into the same space;   work 2nd stitch of trc cl into next 4ch space);   (4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl into same 4ch space as 2nd part of last trc cl);  1ch 1sc into next 4ch space. 1ch, skip next 4ch space;  [(1trc cl, 4ch) x3;  1trc cl] into centre of 2dc group} x11;

1ch, skip next 4ch space, 1sc into next 4ch space, 1ch;  [(1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch into next 4ch space);  (work 1st stitch of trc cl into the same space;   work 2nd stitch of trc cl into next 4ch space);   (4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl into same 4ch space as 2nd part of last trc cl), 1ch 1sc into next 4ch space, 1ch,  skip next 4ch space, sl st into top of start cluster to close.    Break off yarn

*******************

A huge thank you to the wonderful ladies who tested this pattern for me:

Laura Brozo:   "Just Laura" on Facebook

Michelle Westlund:   CROCHET BETWEEN WORLDS

Eleanor Thomson:  NELNANANDNORA