Its starting to look a lot like a Baby Groovyghan CAL(6)

For those of you joining in now (or who may need to catch up) here is a little photo story of what we have done so far (I have included the links to the previous posts to make referencing easier for you):

WEEK 1 - RAINBOWS AND DAISIES SQUARES

I chose some shockingly bright colours in Mirage 4ply - and made some shockingly bright Rainbows and Daisies Squares

WEEK 2 - RAINBOW HALF GRANNY SQUARES

I made lovely (shockingly bright) Rainbow Half Granny Squares - and my baby groovyghan looked like this:

WEEK 3 - THE FIRST STRIPES

The Rainbow Daisy Square Row and the Half Granny Square row were joined with some shockingly bright stripes



WEEK 4 - CIRCLES IN SQUARES

Here we had a bit of fun "designing" our own "Circles in Squares"

WEEK 5 - ZOOTY OWL SQUARE

A little tutorial to make a Zooty Owl Square, and a twist on the "Circles in Squares" from Week 4.

We also crocheted 1 stripe onto the top of the row of Rainbow Half Grannies;  1 stripe onto the top and 1 stripe onto the bottom of the Circles in Squares Grannies



If you have a bit of catching up to do, don't feel too badly!   I have to admit that I also am a bit behind (embarrassed giggle) - I am working on so many exciting WIP's - there are just not enough days in the week!

STRIPES 

We have already worked 1 stripe onto the top of the row of Rainbow Half Grannies;  1 stripe onto the top and 1 stripe onto the bottom of the Circles in Squares Grannies

Crochet 5 Stripes onto the bottom of the Row of Circles in Squares Grannies:  AND
Crochet 5 Stripes onto the top of the Row of Rainbow Half Grannies:

Row 1 (already done in Week 5)
  
Rows 2 - 5:   "Granny Stripe"

Row 2:  Into space between first 2 double crochet on the wrong side of your work, crochet 3ch, 2dc,  *skip two spaces, into third space from hook 3dc* rep *to* to last 4dc, 3dc into space between last 2dc.

Row 2:  Into space between first 2 double crochet on the wrong side of your work, crochet 3ch, 2dc

Row 2:   *skip two spaces, into third space from hook 3dc

Row 2:  *skip two spaces, into third space from hook 3dc * rep *to* to last 4dc, 3dc into space between last 2dc.

Row 3:  turn work - now working on the right side;  ch 4;  *3dc into space between clusters* rep *to* to last sp between clusters, ch 1, 1dc into sp between last dc on final cluster of Row 2

Row 3:  turn work - now working on the right side;  ch 4;  *3dc into space between clusters*

Row 3:  rep *to* to last sp between clusters, ch 1, 1dc into sp between last dc on final cluster of Row 2

Row 4:   Working on the wrong side of your work;  3ch, 2dc into 1ch sp at end of prev row (i.e the start of this row);  *3dc into space between each cluster* rep *to* to last sp between clusters

Row 4:   Working on the wrong side of your work;  3ch, 2dc into 1ch sp at end of prev row

Row 4:   *3dc into space between each cluster* rep *to* to last sp between clusters

Row 5:  Repeat Row 3

Join the top of the bottom of the Row of Circles in Squares Grannies to the top of the Row of Rainbow Half Grannies using the VISIBLE JOIN

Crochet 5 Stripes onto the top of the Row of Circles in Squares Grannies:

Row 1 (already done in Week 5)

Row 2 - 5:   In the colour of your choice join yarn into first dc of previous row;  3ch (counts as first dc), 1dc into top of each dc;  repeat  to end 

Crochet 5 Stripes onto the bottom of the Row of Zooty Owls:

Row 1:   Join your yarn into the corner 3ch of the first square in the row; 1dc into the top of each hdc, when you reach a corner on a block 1dc into corner, 1dc into loop of  join, 1dc into corner on next block.   Repeat this to the end of the row of blocks.  1dc into the last corner 3ch.

Row 2 - 5:   In the colour of your choice join yarn into first dc of previous row;  3ch (counts as first dc), 1dc into top of each dc; 1dc into the 1ch over each join;  repeat to end

NOTE:  Rows 1, 3 and 5 are worked on the right side of your work;   Rows 2 and 4 are worked on the wrong side of your work.

Join the top of the bottom of the Row of  Zooty Owls to the top of the Row of Circles in Squares Grannies using the VISIBLE JOIN

This is where I have fallen slightly behind - I did mention that the Zooty Owls were quite a bit of work and so, alas, I have not completed my Zooty Owl row.    But this is what mine looks like so far:

There are a good few hours of crochet work involved to get up to this point, so I don't think I am going to load another row of squares onto this week!   I am still trying out a few ideas for the next row anyhow- not quite sure which one(s) to pick yet!

I have a fair bit of catching up to do - so that is what I shall be doing for the rest of the afternoon.

Hope you enjoy crocheting along with me!

If you do notice any errors please do not be shy to point them out - always a bit difficult to proof one's own work!

Daisy Centre Mandala Square

Woo hoo I managed to turn the DAISY CENTRE MANDALA into a square!     I think these will make a fantastic stashbusting afghan

I used a light grey to do the squaring.

Here is how I did it:

Row 1:   into sp between any 7dc cluster on last row of Mandala, 4ch;  (3ch 1sc into top of 4th dc on next 7dc cluster;   3ch 1sc into sp between next 7dc cluster) repeat to last sp between clusters; 3ch, 1sc into 4dc on last 7dc cluster;  3ch ss into first chain at start of row

Row 2:  ss into first 3ch sp, 3sc; 1ch   (into next 3ch sp, 3sc, 1ch) x2;   (into next 3ch sp, 3hdc, 1ch) x2;  (into next 3ch sp, 3dc, 1ch) x 2:  into next 3ch sp 3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch  (first corner formed);  [(into next 3ch sp, 3dc, 1ch) x2;  (into next 3ch sp, 3hdc, 1ch) x2;  (into next 3ch sp, 3sc, 1ch) x3; (into next 3ch sp, 3hdc, 1ch) x2;  (into next 3ch sp, 3dc, 1ch) x2;   (into next 3ch sp, 3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch - corner formed)] x3;  (into next 3ch sp, 3dc, 1ch) x2;   (into next 3ch sp, 3hdc, 1ch) x2;   ss into ch at start

At this stage your square will still be looking slightly curved

Row 3:  4ch, sc into next 1ch sp; (3ch, 1sc into next 1ch sp) repeat  to 2nd last 1ch sp;  3ch ss into 1st chain at start
Note:  into corner 3ch do sc, 3ch, sc

Row 4:  ss into 3ch sp;  2ch; 2hdc, 1ch;  (3hdc, 1ch into next 3ch sp)  x4;  (3dc, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x2;   3tr, 1ch into next 3ch sp   [3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch into corner 3ch;   3tr, 1ch into next 3ch sp;   (3dc, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x2;   (3hd, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x7;  (3dc, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x2;   3tr, 1ch into next 3ch sp] x3;   3tr, 3ch, 3tr; 1ch into last 3ch corner sp;  3tr, 1ch into next 3ch sp;   3tr, 1c into next 3ch sp;  (3dc, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x2;  (3hdc, 1ch into next 3ch sp) x2;  ss into top of start 2ch to close

The edges do look every so slightly untidy - so if I was going to use this as an aghan block I would do a row of 3dc cluster around to tidy it up nicely!

Daisy Centre Mandala Pattern

I am not really a Mandala "person", but I have been seeing a lot of them lately - such bursts of inspirational colour! 

The other afternoon I was not in the mood for any of my WIP's - I desperately needed a bit of colourplay!    

This is the result of an afternoon and evening well spent:

DAISY CENTRE MANDALA:

Pattern terms:   US
Hook:  5.00mm 
Yarn:   Elle Pullskein DK

Each row is worked in a different colour

Note:    these Mandalas are components of a bigger project I am working on - I needed them to be "stretchy" and therefore used a larger hook;    A 4.00mm to 4.50mm depending on your tension will probably be a better option for this type of yarn

Foundation:  4ch, ss to form ring

Row 1:  4 ch (counts as 1dc 1ch), 1dc 1ch into ring (repeat 11 times) (12 x 1dc, 1ch groups) ss to close, break off yarn 

Row 2:  Into any 1ch sp,  2ch 2dc cluster, 3ch;   *3dc cluster, 3ch* crochet *to* 11x (12 clusters), ss to close, break off yarn 

Note:   a 3dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook, repeat this twice more (four loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster

Row 3  Into any 3ch sp, 3ch 2dc 1ch;   *3dc, 1ch into next 3ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 4:  Into any 1ch sp, 3ch, 1dc, 1ch, 2dc, 1ch:  *2dc, 1ch, 2dc, 1ch into next 1ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 5:   Into any 1ch sp, 3ch 2dc;   *3dc into next 1ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 6:  Into any sp between 3dc groups,  6ch *1dc, 3ch into next sp between 3dc groups* repeat * to * to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 7:  Into any 3ch sp, 3ch 4dc; *5dc into next 3ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 8:  Into any dc, 3ch;   1dc into each dc to end, ss to close, break off yarn

Row 9:   Into any dc directly in line with dc on row 6:  7ch, 1sc into top of 5th dc from hook;  *6ch, 1sc into top of 5th dc from hook* repeat *to* to end, ss into 1st of 7ch

Row 10:  ss along first three chain of Row 9; sc into 6ch sp; *7ch, sc into 6ch space* repeat *to* to last 6ch sp;  6ch ss into first sc to close, break off yarn

Row 11:  Into any 7ch sp; 3ch, 6dc;  *7dc into each 7ch sp* repeat *to* to end, ss to join.  break off yarn

Zooty Owl Square: Baby Groovyghan CAL(5)

The Baby Groovyghan CAL has ended.   The consolidated pattern will be available on Ravelry on 1 June 2017

I have used the Zooty Owl Square to make a Zooty Owl Scarf with Pockets. 

The scarf is made with soft Stylecraft Special Chunky (100% Acrylic) and is suitable for children of all ages.   

The pattern is available in my Ravelry Store (HERE  ) 

Granny Square Hippie Jacket Pattern

This Granny Square Hippie Jacket is made up of:
Four rectangular panels - back, left front, right front and hood;  and
Two square panels - left and right sleeves

Yarn:
Elle Pullskein DK, Stylecraft Special DK, Elle Charity Variegated DK  (approximately 800g in total)

Hooks:
4.00mm and 3.50mm

Terms:
US

Extras:
2 large buttons

Sizes:
M-L (S)

Square Sizes:
14cm x 14cm = 7 rounds (12cm x 12cm = 6 rounds) 

Back Panel

The Back Panel is 4 squares wide and 5 squares long

M-L size = 56cm x 70cm
S size = 48cm x 60cm

Front Panel

Both Front Panels are 2 squares wide and 5 squares long

M-L size = 28cm x 70cm
S size = 24cm x 60cm

Note:   I have given my jacket a "v" neck by substituting a Half  Granny on neck edge of each front panel.    I have indicated the joins for either a granny square (for a more closed neckline) or a half granny (for a v-neckline)
 

Sleeves

Both Sleeves are 3 squares wide x 3 squares long

M-L size = 42cm x 42cm
S size = 36cm x 36cm

Hood

The Hood is 3 squares wide x 2 squares long

M-L size = 42cm x 28cm
S size = 36cm x 24cm

(Somebody had asked for square patterns - there are a few on my blog if you would rather follow a pattern for your squares:   RAINBOWS AND DAISIES SQUARE;   CIRCLES IN SQUARES;  EIGHT PETAL GRANNY SQUARE;)

Should you choose to make a V-neck as I have done here is a quick pattern for a
SOLID HALF GRANNY: 

Row 1:  4ch:   into first chain 2dc;   3ch, 2dc, 1ch, 1dc

Row 2:  4ch turn, 2dc into 1ch sp;  1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into 3ch sp (point formed) 1dc between each dc on previous row;   2dc into 1ch sp; 1dc

Row 3:  4ch turn, 2dc into 1ch sp;   1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into point;  1dc between each dc on previous row;  2dc into 1ch sp, 1dc

Rows 4 - 7 (M-L);   4 -6 (S) - Repeat Row 3

Start by joining your 64 squares (for a closed neck) or 62 squares and 2 triangles (for a v-neck) to form the panels as in the diagrams above.

Now join the panels as per the diagrams:

First join the left and right front panels to the back.

Next join the sleeves - half to the front panel and half to the back panel for each sleeve.
Form the sleeve by joining along the open "bottom" end of the square
close the side seams of the jacket by joining left front panel to left back panel and right front panel to right back panel.

Edging

With the outside (right side) of the jacket facing work three rows of double crochet using the 4.00mm hook.
With the inside (wrong side) of the jacket facing work one row of half double crochet using the 3.50mm hook. 

Row 1:   1dc into top of each dc.   When reaching a join - 1dc into corner 1dc into join stitch 1dc into corner, into the two corners (left and right front bottom) 2dc, 3ch, 2dc
Row 2 :  1dc into each dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into each corner
Row 3:    repeat row 2

Note:  If you are making a v-neck crochet 2dc into each post on the diagonal of the half granny 

Row 4:  With the inside (wrong side) of the jacket facing work one row of half double crochet using the 3.50mm hook - 1hdc into each dc, into corners 3hdc.

Around the sleeves work 5 rows of single crochet using the 4.00mm hook and alternating right side / wrong side 

Tip:  If your tension is inclined to be a bit loose or uneven use the smaller hook for the entire edging - this will give you a neater finish.

Fastenings:

Make 3:
Ch 4, ss to join 
Row 1:  3 ch (counts as 1 dc), 9 dc into circle (10 dc), ss into top of 3ch to join
Row 2:  2ch, 1hdc into top of  dc;  *2dc into top of  dc* rep *to* 4 times (10hdc);  12ch;  2dc into top of  dc* rep *to* 5 times (10 hdc) - 20 hdc with a 12ch loop in between

Make 3:
Ch 4, ss to join 
Row 1:  3 ch (counts as 1 dc), 9 dc into circle (10 dc), ss into top of 3ch to join 
Row 2:  2ch, 1hdc into top of  dc;  *2dc into top of  dc* rep *to* 9 times (20hdc) 

Note:  I only used two fastenings.

Work the loop fastening onto the right front panel edging of the jacket (space them as you are comfortable)

Work the circle fastenings onto the left front panel edging of the jacket (in line with the loop fastenings)

Work your buttons onto the circle fastenings!

Weave in all ends securely and you are DONE!!!

EDIT

Just a few additional things I thought of:

I never actually wear the hood - mine just keeps my neck warm and I like the way it looks.   If you actually wear the hood you may want to make it a bit roomier by crocheting a few extra rows along the width before you work it on to your jacket.

I have also had a lot of ladies asking me how to make the pattern bigger:

For an XL make your squares 16cm x 16cm
For an XXL make your squares 17cm x 17cm
For an XXXL make your squares 18cm x 18cm

Do not do this for the sleeves - otherwise you are going to sit with ridiculously long sleeves.

Increase your sleeves by crocheting the extra rows down the sides of your joined squares:

For an XL - 6 rows on either side
For an XXL - 12 rows on either side
For an XXXL - 18 rows on either side

Circles in Squares: Baby Groovyghan CAL(4)

I have never really viewed squares constructed of basic circles, solid squares or traditional grannies as being a "pattern" since the construction of the basic circles and squares comes down to nothing more than a bit of simple mathematics, colour change and stitch grouping.

A basic three round circle is constructed in multiples of twelve:   
1st round = 12
2nd round = 24
3rd round = 36

Your basic circle can easily be squared or made into a hexagon.   Multiples of twelve can be divided by FOUR (square) and SIX (hexagon)

Variation of your stitches, row colours etc is what adds the element of interest to the basic circle.

This week I am going to concentrate on changing the appearance of the BASIC "SOLID" CIRCLE:

Pattern Terms:  US

Yarn:  Mirage 4ply

Hook Size:  3.50mm
 
Foundation:  4ch, ss to join

Row 1:  3 ch into same place as ss (counts as 1 dc), 11 dc into circle (12 dc), ss into top of 3ch to join

Row 2:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into top of  same dc;  *2dc into top of  dc* rep *to* 11 times= 24dc

Row 3:  3ch (counts as 1dc). 1dc into top of same dc, 1dc into top of next dc*2dc into top of next dc, 1dc into next top of next dc *Rep *to* 11 times = 36dc;   ss into top of 3ch

The exact same circle - but the possibilities are endless!!!!

Squaring your basic 3 round circle is also not complicated - once again a bit of basic math:

36 stitches - 4 corners = 32 stitches

32 stitches - 4 sides = 8 stitches

Simple!   What does that mean?   In plain english you will have 8 stitches on each side between your corners!

Using different heights of stitches on your corner squares your circle (for a three round granny 2 height variations is enough to square the circle - on a bigger circle it gets a bit more complicated!)

My gran taught me an easy formula for STITCH HEIGHTS - this is also the formula I use when starting a row:

ss = 0 (0 chain0
sc = 1 (1 chain)
hdc = 2 (2 chain)
dc = 3 (3 chain)
tr - 4 (4 chain)

We are going to use a combination of hdc(2) and dc(3) to square this circle for our Baby Groovyghan, working as follows: 

Row 4:  Join 2nd Colour into top of dc and work as follows:  2ch, 1hdc into top of next 7 dc (8hdc);   *2dc, 3ch, 2dc into top of next dc;  1hdc into top of each of next 8dc* *to* 3 times; 2dc, 3ch, 2dc into top of last dc; ss into top of 2ch to join.

Row 5:  3ch; 1dc into top of each of next 7dc;  1dc into top of each of 2 cnr dc;  2dc, 3ch, 2dc into cnr 2ch; *1dc into each of next 2dc;   1dc into each of next 8dc; 1dc into each of next 2dc;   2dc, 3ch, 2dc into cnr 2ch* *to* 3 times;  1dc into each of next 2dc;  ss into top of 3ch. break off yarn

Row 6:  Join 3rd colour into top of any dc, 3ch;   1dc into top of each dc;   into corner 3ch make 2dc, 3ch, 2dc 

Play around with colours, alternating your row to get different effects - don't worry about having a heap of tryout squares!    Grannies are super versatile and you will always find some use for them!

Make 8 squares in the colour and row combinations of your choice and join them together.    This will for the 3rd row of squares for your Baby Groovyghan!

Next week we will crochet another band of stripes and join your Circles in Squares Grannies to the rest of the blanket.  

Have fun experimenting!!!

Rainbow Half Grannies Square Pattern: Baby Groovyghan CAL(2)

In Part 1 of the Baby Groovyghan CAL we made 8 RAINBOWS AND DAISIES SQUARES

The squares were assembled into a strip using the VISIBLE JOIN

Your blanket should be looking something like this:

The second square we will be making is the Rainbow Half Granny Square.  

RAINBOW HALF GRANNY SQUARE:

Foundation:  ch4

Round 1:  into fourth ch from hook 2dc, 2ch, 3dc

Round 2:  3ch turn;   2dc into sp between first two dc;   3dc, 3ch, 3dc into 2ch sp,  3dc into sp between last 2dc

Round 3 and 4:   3ch turn, 2dc into sp between first two dc,  3dc into sp between clusters; 3dc, 3ch, 3dc into 3ch sp (corner);  3dc into sp between clusters;  3dc into sp between last 2dc.

Break off yarn at the end of Round 4.

NOTE:   Row 4 is the "right side" of the granny - you need to remember this when we start joining.

Make 16 half grannies and then proceed as follows:

Put two triangles on top of one another, right sides facing inward, and join along the bottom edge with the VISIBLE JOIN

 Join your half grannies 2 by 2 until you have eight of these little parcels

Fold them open and smooth them flat - do not panic! - at this point they are more "diamond" shaped than square - we will compensate for this in Round 5!

 
Round 5:  Join your white yarn (or whatever colour you are using as your border colour) in any sp between 3dc clusters;  3ch, 2dc;  3dc into sp between every 3dc cluster;   3dc, 3ch, 3dc into corner

Over join work as follows:   into sp between last 2dc crochet 1dc;   2tr through loop of visible join, 3ch, 2tr through loop of visible join;  1dc into sp between first 2dc on second triangle

repeat to complete the square;   ss into top of 3ch to join

Round 6:  2ch, 1hdc into top of each dc;    2hdc, 3ch, 2hdc into each corner (there should be 20hdc on each side of your square)

Arrange your 8 squares in a row (use the 1st row as a visual placement guide) and work them together with the visible join

You should now have two rows of 8 squares each which look something like this:

I am going to neaten up my two rows by working in the ends (lots and lots of ends).    I will post the next part of the CAL by latest Wednesday next week - we will be adding 10 rows of stripes to the Rainbows & Daisies row - then joining to the Rainbow Half Grannies row, and then adding ten stripes to that - quite a lot of work for next week so get those hooks ready!