Last Tuesday, instead of paying attention to the piles of WIP's lying on my table, I was determined to make something with a rather ugly ball of variegated yarn that had been driving me
insane for a few days!
I had tried it with so many different patterns, and no matter what I did, it was just too ugly to look at!
After multiple froggings I decided to mix the variegated with a solid red yarn and attempt to make a slouchy beanie.
My beautiful youngest daughter modelling her slouchy beanie:
I made another one mixing the variegated yarn with a solid cream for my other beautiful daughter, Dani.
I used a bit of the variegated yarn making two HIBISCUS BLOOMS to decorate the beanies (if I had not done this I probably would have managed to make both from 100g of the variegated yarn)
"THE ROXI SLOUCHY" PATTERN
Pattern Terms:
My patterns are all
written in US terms - I have included this little chart to make it easier for
my UK
readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.
Materials:
50g - 60g of variegated DK plus 50g - 60g of solid DK
DK (8ply) is equivalent to US Light Worsted Weight yarn. Working
with a double strand of DK (8ply) gives you a 16ply yarn (Super
Bulky).
Hook
Sizes: 9.00mm; 8.00mm and 6.00mm
Size: Medium Adult
Using a 9.00mm hook:
Foundation: 4ch, sl st to form circle OR
make a magic circle
Row 1: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 11 dc into circle (12 dc), sl
st into top of 3ch to join
Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc
into each of next 11dc (24dc), sl st into top of 3ch
at start to join
Row 3: 3ch (counts as 1 dc),
1dc into next dc; 2dc into next dc; (1dc into each of next 2dc; 2dc
into next dc) x7, sl st into top of 3ch at start to join (32 dc)
Row 4: 3ch (counts as 1 dc), 1dc into each of next 2dc; 2dc into next dc, (1dc into each of next 3dc, 2dc into next dc) x7, sl st into top of 3ch at start to join (40dc)
Row 5: 3ch (counts as 1 dc), 1dc into each of next 3dc; 2dc into next dc, (1dc into each of next 4dc, 2dc into next dc) x7, sl st into top of 3ch at start to join (48dc)
Row 6: 3ch (counts as 1 dc), 1dc into each of next 4dc; 2dc into next dc, (1dc into each of next 5dc, 2dc into next dc) x7, sl st into top of 3ch at start to join (56dc)
At this point the diameter of the circle is 21cm
Row 7: 3ch (counts as 1 dc),
1dc into same dc as join ("v" formed), skip next dc; [2dc into next dc ("v" formed), skip next dc] all around, sl st into top of 3ch at start to join
Row 8: sl st into space between 2dc of 1st "v", 2ch (counts as 1hdc),
1hdc into same space ("v" formed), (2hdc into space between 2dc ("v" formed) of next "v"), all around sl st into top of 3ch at start to join
Row 9: sl st into space between 2dc of 1st "v", 3ch (counts as 1dc),
1dc into same space ("v" formed), (2dc into space between 2dc of next "v"), all around sl st into top of 3ch at start to join
Rows 10 - 21 -
Work as follows:
Rows 10; 12; 14; 16; 18 and 20 repeat Row 8
Rows 11; 13; 15; 17; 19 and 21 repeat Row 9
The length from the bottom of Row 7 to the top of Row 21 should be 20cm
The length from the crown of the beanie to the top of Row 21 should be 28cm
Switch to using a 8.00mm hook:
Row 22: 1ch (counts as 1sc); 1sc into each space between dc; sl st into 1ch at start to join;
Rows 23 - 24: 1ch (counts as 1sc); 1sc into each sc; sl st into 1ch at start to join; Break off yarn.
EDGING:
Using only 1 strand of yarn (I used the solid colour) and a 6.00mm hook join yarn with a sl st in any sc; 2ch; (sl st into next sc; 2ch) repeat around ending with a sl st into start sl st to join. Break off yarn.
This is a little adaptation of a DESIGN I did a while back - I was going to scrap the pattern altogether as it just was not working for me - but then inspiration struck. I changed a few rows, made it a bit smaller and VOILA!!
Although I
used DK cottons for all the doilies the different brands differ quite a
bit in thickness - so adjust your hook size to suit your yarn.
********
Materials: Raeesah Cotton Soft DK
Hook Size: 4.00mm
Size: 29cm in Diameter
********
Materials: Strawberries & Cream Cotton DK
Hook Size: 4.50mm
Size: 33cm in Diameter
********
Materials: Strawberries & Cream Cotton DK
Hook Size: 4.50mm
Size: 33cm in Diameter
********
Materials: Coffee Cotton DK
Hook Size: 4.00mm
Size: 27cm in Diameter
********
Materials: Coffee Cotton DK
Hook Size: 4.00mm
Size: 27cm in Diameter
Special
thanks to Erica Liebenberg for testing this pattern for me (with
absolute lightening speed!!!) - As you can see kitty cat was quite
impressed with the yarny goings on!
********
Pattern Terms:
My patterns are all written in US terms
I have included this little chart to
make it easier for my UK
readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.
Foundation: 4ch, sl st into first chain to form a circle OR make a magic ring
Row 1:
4ch into same place as sl st (counts as 1dc, 1ch); (1dc; 1ch into
circle) x 11, sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (12 x 1dc; 1ch
groups)
Row 2: Join yarn in any 1ch sp; 6ch (counts as 1dc, 3ch); (1dc into next 1ch sp, 3ch) x 11, sl st into 3rd of 6ch at start to close.
Row 3: Join yarn in any 3ch space; 2ch, 3dc (4dc
cluster) 6ch; (4dc cluster into next 3ch space, 6ch) x 11; sl st into
top of 1st cluster to close.
Note: a 4dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over
hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving last loops on your hook,
repeat this 3 times more (five loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster
Row 4: Join
yarn in any 6ch space; 1ch (counts as 1sc); [12 dc into next 6ch sp (12dc
group); 1sc into next 6ch sp] x5; 12dc into last 6ch space; sl st
into 1 ch at start to close.
Row 5:
Join yarn into top of 2nd dc on any 12dc group; 4ch in same sp as join
(counts as 1dc, 1ch); 1dc, 1ch into each of next 9dc (10dc group);
(1dc into 2nd dc on next 12dc group, 1ch; 1dc, 1ch into each of next
9dc) x 5; sl st into 3rd of 4ch at start to close.
Row 6: Join
yarn into top of 2nd dc on any 10dc group; 5ch in same sp as join
(counts as 1dc, 2ch); 1dc, 2ch into each of next 7dc (8dc group); (1dc
into 2nd dc on next 10dc group, 2ch; 1dc, 2ch into each of next 7dc) x
5; sl st into 3rd of 5ch at start to close.
Row 7: Join
yarn in first 2 ch sp of 8dc group, 5ch in same space (counts as 1sc,
4ch), 1sc, 4ch into each of next six 2ch spaces (6 loop grouping);
(1sc, 4ch into first 2ch sp of 8dc group; 1sc, 4ch into each of next
six 2ch spaces) x 5; sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.
Row 8: Join
yarn in first 4ch space of any 6 loop grouping; 5ch in same space
(counts as 1sc, 4ch); 1sc, 4ch into each of next four spaces; 1sc into next 4ch sp, (5 loop
grouping) 6ch; [1sc into first 4ch space on next
6 loop grouping, 4ch; 1sc, 4ch into each of next four 4ch sps; 1sc into next 4ch sp, (5 loop
grouping) 6ch] x 5; sl st into 1st of 5ch at
start to close.
Row 9:
Join yarn in first 4ch space of any 5 loop grouping; 5ch in same space
(counts as 1sc, 4ch); 1sc, 4ch into each of next three 4ch sps; 1sc
into next 4ch space (4 loop grouping), 1ch; [into 6ch space between
loop groupings work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3; 2dc cluster, 1ch; 1sc into
first 4ch space of next 5 loop grouping, 4ch; 1sc, 4ch into each of
next three 4ch sps; 1sc into next 4ch space (4 loop grouping), 1ch] x
5; into last 6ch space between groupings work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3;
2dc cluster, 1ch; sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close;
Note: a 2dc cluster is formed as follows - yarn over
hook, work the first part of the stitch leaving 2 loops on your hook,
repeat this once more (three loops on hook) Yarn over hook and draw through the loops on the hook to form your cluster
![crochet doily crochet doily](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxrZPZObAh7I8RbgeaxYrNLyzUOq2xOMNB89utxsny58btSB9dd60GXy4ayonxEnnXS5TotqrUm5tlSJ3pRGvge4Z7hz31nD1coQLdOX32pXRM5-5PZrHj-bGYlePT4r8wbGQt_Utch_KP/s1600/051.JPG)
Row 10: Join yarn in first 4ch of any 4 loop grouping;
5ch in same space (counts as 1sc, 4ch); 1sc, 4ch into each of next two
4ch spaces; 1sc into next 4ch space (3 loop grouping), 1ch; [into 2ch
sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster, 2ch; into 2ch
sp between 2nd and 3rd 2dc cluster work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x 3; into
2ch sp between 3rd and 4th 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster, 1 ch;
1sc into first 4ch of 4 loop grouping, 4ch; 1sc, 4ch into each of next
two 4ch spaces; 1sc into next 4ch sp (3 loop grouping), 1ch] x5; into
2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work one 2dc cluster 2ch;
into 2ch sp between 2nd and 3rd 2dc cluster work (2dc cluster, 2ch) x
3; into 2ch sp between 3rd and 4th 2dc clusters work 1 2dc cluster, 1
ch, sl st into 1st of 5ch a start to close.
![crochet doily crochet doily](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjldG1wgDsU4st7EAxvsE4J0GNBFvEzBnKBPL0reNulr6GzSC31_0KX9of4OgW4F-Dir9VlNwXHWMH5zS5za6OVTHRecvl_SyYunOaO3t1pHJyBuuykYvudwP7tjk_0gVvNjSTrQzxBZMCb/s1600/009.JPG)
Row 11: Join
yarn in first 4ch of any 3 loop grouping, 5ch in same space (counts as
1sc, 4ch); 1sc into next 4ch space, 4ch; 1sc into next 4ch space (2
loop grouping), 1ch [into 2ch sp between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work 1
x 2dc cluster, 2ch; (2dc cluster, 2ch, 2dc cluster, 2ch into next
space between 2dc clusters) x2; 2dc cluster in next space between
clusters, 1ch; (1sc in next 4ch space, 4ch) x2; 1ch] x 5; into 2ch sp
between 1st and 2nd 2dc clusters work 1 x 2dc cluster, 2ch;
(2dc cluster, 2ch, 2dc, 2ch cluster into next space between 2dc
clusters) x2; 2dc cluster in next space between clusters; 1ch; sl st
into 1st of 5ch at start to close
(I did not have a
problem with the Raeesah Cotton Soft but the Strawberries & Cream
and the Coffee Cotton started to "pucker" a bit at this point - a puff
of steam after each completed row sorted this out nicely though!)
Row 12: Join yarn in 1ch sp before close sl st on Row 11;
3ch (counts as 1dc) in same 1ch sp as join; 5dc into next two 4ch
spaces; 1dc into next 1ch sp; 3hdc into 1st sp between clusters;
3sc into each of next 3 spaces between clusters; 3hdc into next space
between clusters; (1dc in next1ch sp; 5dc into next 2 4ch
spaces; 1dc into next 1ch sp; 3hdc into 1st sp between clusters;
3sc into each of next 3 spaces between clusters; 3hdc into next space
between clusters) repeat to end; sl st into 3rd of 3ch at start to
close
Row 13: Join
yarn in same place as close sl st: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same
place as join; 1dc into each of next 10dc; 2dc into next dc; skip
3hdc; 2hdc into each of next 3sc; skip 3sc; 2hdc into each of next
3sc, skip 3hdc; (2dc into next dc; 1dc into each of
next 10dc; 2dc into next dc; skip 3hdc; 2hdc into each of next 3sc;
skip 3sc; 2hdc into each of next 3sc, skip 3hdc)
Row 14 (edging): join yarn with a sl st in any stitch, 1ch, sl st in next stitch, repeat to end
I had a 100g ball of Lollipop variegated yarn in spectacularly bright rainbow colours. Thought I would make a ROAD TRIP SCARF with it - but OUCH - there was just too much colour going on (never thought I would actually say something like that!!)
I suddenly had the idea to make a beach bag and just started crocheting! Even though I had no clear idea as to what the end product would look like, I knew EXACTLY how I wanted to decorate it! Great big floppy Hibiscus Blooms - like the ones you find on the Island Queen Hibiscus:
The bloom is quite frilly and just altogether fantastic. Not an easy thing to recreate!
Remember a few weeks back I helped Designer Iin Wibisono test the FRILLY PANSY pattern (I used it to decorate my JAR JACKETS)? The big frilly pansy petals were perfect to start forming my Hibiscus Bloom - so thank you Iin for the inspiration and letting me borrow something from your idea!
I used the reverse single crochet to edge the first one I made:
I love the look of the reverse single crochet, but my fingers get a bit knotted up doing the crab stitch, so I changed the edging a bit on my second attempt:
Quite happy with how it turned out - of course not even close to as spectacular as Mother Nature's work - but not a bad yarny copy!
Special thanks also to the ladies who tested the pattern for me! You girls ROCK!
Gloria Clayton used a cotton poly blend for the petals and base but had to switch to Simply Soft to get the hot pink border. Gloria says "I found it pleasing to make and believe with your special stitch instruction it could be made by some beginners." She suggests that you DO read the whole pattern through before starting to crochet as there are several portions to be worked.
Gabriela Mendez from Beunos Aires used cerise for rows 1 and 2 - the same colour as the beads; then a
soft yellow for the petals and the flower centre; bright orange for
the eding. Gabriela says "it is wonderfully written, very clear"
My wonderful bloggy friend, Pat Wilkinson, from SUNSHINE AND A SEWING BASKET once again stepped up to help me test, making her Hibiscus in these beautiful shades.
I can also always count on my Facebook friend, Laura Brozo to quickly and effectively test my patterns! I just LOVE the hot pink she used as well as the straight slip stitch along the edge!
Thank you all, once again, for your wonderful input!
So enough blah blah blah from me....... here is the pattern!
HIBISCUS BLOOM
PATTERN TERMS:
US
My patterns are all written in US terms - I have included this little chart to
make it easier for my UK
readers to reference the difference in stitch terms.
Skill Level: Intermediate
Approximate
Time: 60 minutes
Yarn: Any DK (8 ply / Light Worsted Weight) or Aran (10ply / Worsted Weight) Yarn (I used Lollipop DK) - The bloom is made from 3 different colours.
Hook: Use whatever hook size
suits your choice of yarn and your tension (I used a 5.00 mm hook; and a 4.00mm hook)
Special Stitches: I use a double triple crochet (dtrc) (yarn three times around hook) - this is known as a Triple Treble in UK Terms (ttr)
Foundation: With colour A and using a 5.00mm hook - 4ch, sl st to join OR make a magic ring
Row 1: 3ch (counts as 1 dc), 11 dc into circle (12 dc),
sl st into top of 3ch to join
Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into top of same dc; (2dc into top of next dc) x11 = 24dc; sl st into top of 3ch to join
Row 3: Join colour B into top of any dc; 4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as join; 3dtrc into each of next 2dc; into next dc 2dtrc, 4ch sl st; (4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as sl st from previous petal; 3dtrc into each of next 2dc; into next dc 2dtrc, 4ch sl st) x 6; 4ch, 2dtrc into same dc as sl st from previous petal; 3dtrc into each of next 2dc; into next dc (same dc as start of first petal) 2dtrc, 4ch sl st= 8 petals formed
Petal Edging: Using the 4.00mm hook join Colour C with a sl st into the top of first dtrc on any petal; (1ch; 1sl st into the top of next dtrc) x 9; (1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3; sl st into sl st at base of 4ch; 6ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed) 3ch, sl st into sl st at base of 4ch
[(1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3; (1ch, sl st into top of next dtrc) x 10; (1ch, sl st into 4ch) x 3; sl st into sl st at base of 4ch; 6ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed) 3ch, sl st into sl st at base of 4ch] x 7; break off yarn
(VARIATION: you could use the reverse single crochet - as with the Frilly Pansy - to edge your petals!)
Flower Centre: Using the 4.00mm hook attach Colour B with a slip stitch around any dc post in Row 1; 9ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed) 6ch;
(sl st around next dc post in Row 1; 9ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook; 6ch) x 11; sl st around last dc post from Row 1; break off yarn
![crochet flower crochet flower](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij0MFry9jfMCy95IwNL_99LGYrzXGHZ9SS1gECIT-if24HXOx2z0D-CuYUuFmJtaNv3YBITdZpOHUo7EOKrlA3QMiHdwme0eqlEIZCNJrKcKVxplTUXQ2ySdXpxMcVb3EacnxHvAvyNvlI/s1600/hibiscuscentre.jpg)
Embellishment - sew a few little beads into the centre of the flower!
This little flower is quite versatile!
Leave the picot part out when you do the edging, don't crochet the flower centre - and add a big button to the centre instead:
PS: OOOh...... ooh and a last test in - this one from Iin Wibisono - isn't it pretty??? (Thank you Iin)
Many, many, many moons ago, when my girls where little, they used to love crocheting with me on winter weekends.
We
would decide what we were going to make on a Thursday evening -a bag, a
pillow, a scarf - always something quick and easy. I would stop at
Checkers (supermarket) on my way home from the office on Friday evening
and pick up a few balls of yarn in the colours they had chosen.
(Checkers still stocks this yarn today - it is called Chick and is
probably the equivalent of the Red Heart Super Saver in price and
quality.)
I would make up the patterns as we went, often
sharing the pattern with friends whose daughters also liked the
crochet-along mom and daughter routine! (Most of these "patterns"
were never more than hurried scribbles on scrap paper)
Anyway,
a few days ago I was chatting on Whatsapp to my friend who now lives in
Cape Town, and she sent me a photo of herself wearing a scarf. "Kyk
wat kry ek in die stoorkamer" (look what I found in the storeroom) she
said! One of my little patterns she had made with her girls about 16
years ago! "Ek wil weer so een maak" (I want to make another) she
said! "Kan jy onthou hoe?" (can you remember how?). Hhmm -
vaguely....
Picked up my hook and some variegated and an hour and a half later ......... ta-dah
So much fun!
Made another so that I could write the pattern - of course I had to add a bit of extra flair to this one!!
At less than 100g for an adult scarf (probably about 50g for a little girl's scarf) this is a perfect project to keep little hands busy on cold or rainy afternoons!
The scarf takes very little time to crochet, making it a great "rescue" when you need a gift in a hurry!
Busy tidying the pattern up (my friend in Cape Town is doing a quick test for me) so that I can share it with you in time for next weekend!
Skill Level: Easy
Pattern Terms: US
Materials: Raeesah "Cotton Soft" DK (100% Cotton)
Hook: 4.00 mm
Size: 32cm
Materials: Strawberries & Cream (100% Cotton)
Hook: 5.00 mm
Size: 38cm
SPECIAL STITCHES:
Four Triple Crochet Cluster: Yarn
twice over hook, work the first and second part of the stitch, omit the
third part of the stitch (2 loops on hook); work the second stitch
the same way (3 loops on hook); work the third stitch the same way (4
loops on hook); work the fourth stitch the same way (5 loops on
hook); yarn over hook; draw yarn through all five loops on the hook.
(When working cluster at the start of a row the start chain counts as
the first stitch)
Six Triple Crochet Cluster: Yarn twice over hook,
work the
first and second part of the stitch, omit the third part of the stitch
(2 loops on hook); work the second stitch the same way (3 loops on
hook); work the third stitch the same way (4 loops on hook); work the
fourth stitch the same way (5 loops on hook); work the fifth stitch
the same way (6 loops on hook) yarn over hook; work the sixth stitch
the same way (7 loops on hook) draw
yarn through all seven loops on the hook. (When working cluster at
the
start of a row the start chain counts as the first stitch)
Foundation: 4ch, ss into 1st ch to form circle OR make a magic ring
4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch); 1dc, 1ch into circle) x 1; sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12 x 1dc, 1ch)
Join yarn into any 1ch space Row 1; 3ch (counts as 1hdc, 1ch), 1hdc, 1ch in same 1ch sp as join; (1hdc, 1ch,
1hdc, 1ch into next 1ch space) x 11; sl st into 2nd ch at start (24 hdc)
Join yarn in any 1ch sp; 3ch
(counts as 1st trc in a 4trc cluster - see SPECIAL
STITCHES above ), work 2 part trc into next 1ch space; 1 part trc into
next 1ch sp and complete the cluster; 4ch;
(Into the same space
that you worked the last stitch of the previous cluster work 1 part trc,
2 part trc into next 1ch space; 1 part trc into next 1ch sp and
complete the cluster; 4ch) x 11; sl st into top of first cluster
Join yarn in any 4ch space between clusters; 3ch
(counts as 1st trc in a 6 trc cluster - see SPECIAL
STITCHES above ), work 5 more part trc into same 4ch space, yarn over
and draw through all loops on your hook to complete the cluster, 7ch;
(6trc cluster into next 4ch space, 7ch) x 11; sl st into top of first cluster
Join yarn in any 7ch space;
3ch (counts as 1 dc), 6dc into same space as join, 1ch; (7dc into next
7ch space, 1ch) x 11; sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (12 x
7dc, 1ch groups made)
Join yarn in any 1ch sp; 5ch
(counts as 1sc, 4ch): 1sc into top of 4th dc of 7dc group; (4ch, 1sc
into next 1ch space; 4ch, 1sc into top of 4th dc of next 7dc group) x
11; 4ch, sl st into first ch at start of row
Join
yarn in any 4ch space; 3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc in same space as join
(5dc group), 1ch; (5dc into next 4ch space, 1ch) to end sl st into top
of 3ch at start of row
Join
yarn into top of 1st dc on any 5dc group; 3ch into same space as join
(counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 4dc, 1ch: (1dc into each of
next 5dc, 1ch) to end sl st into top of 3ch at start to close
Join
yarn into top of 2nd dc on any 5dc group, 3ch into same space as join
(counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 3dc (4dc group), 1ch, 1dc spike
into 1ch space on Row 7, 1ch; (1dc into 2nd dc on next 5dc group, 1dc into each of next 3dc; 1ch, 1dc spike into next 1ch space on Row 7, 1ch); sl st into top of 3ch at start to close
Join
yarn into top of 1st dc on any 4dc group; 3ch into same space as join
(counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 3dc, (4dc group), 1ch, crossover
dc (made by crocheting 1dc into the 1ch sp to the left of the dc spike
on Row 9 and 1dc into the 1ch sp to the right of the
spike), 1ch; (1dc into each of next 4dc; 1ch, crossover dc, 1ch) repeat
to end sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close.
Join
yarn into top of 2nd dc on any 4dc group, 3ch into same space as join
(counts as 1dc); 1dc into each of next 2dc (3dc group), 6ch; (1dc into
2nd dc on next 4dc group; 1dc into each of next 2 dc, 6ch) repeat to end
sl st into top of 3ch at start of row to close
Join
yarn with a sl st into 2nd dc of any 3dc group; 8dc into 6ch sp; sl st
into 2nd dc of next 3dc group (8dc into next 6ch space; sl st into 2nd
dc of next 3dc group) repeat to last 6ch sp; 8dc into last 6ch sp;
sl st into same space as start ss to close
Join yarn with a sl st into any dc, 1ch; (sl st, into next dc, 1ch) repeat to end, sl st into start sl st to close