Fireworks Doily / Mandala: Print Friendly

Pattern Terms:  US 

Yarn: 
1.  Raeesah Cotton Soft DK (100% cotton)
2.  Elle Premier Cotton DK
(Use whichever yarn blend or thread count you like)

Hook:  4.00mm 
Size:    43cm (17 inches) Skill Level:  Intermediate


A Photo Tutorial for this pattern can be found HERE

Special Stitches:  

Triple Triple Crochet Cluster (trtrc cl) = yoh (yarn over hook) x4;   insert hook into correct space, yoh, draw back through space;  draw through 2 loops four times, leaving last two on hook;   make the second trtrc the same way;   three loops on hook, then draw through last three loops to form your cluster. 

Triple Crochet Cluster (trc cl) = yoh x2;   insert hook into correct space, yoh, draw back through spacedraw through 2 loops twice, leaving last two on hook;   make a second trc the same way;   three loops on hook, then draw through last three loops to form your cluster.

Foundation:  7ch,  sl st into 1st ch to form circle OR make a magic ring

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  23dc into circle;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (24dc).   Break off yarn.

Row 2:   Join yarn into top of any dc;    6ch, 1 trtrc (1st cluster), 6ch;  (skip 1 dc,   trtrc cl into next dc,   6ch) x 11, sl st into top of 1st cluster to close (12 x trtrc clusters).    Break off yarn.

Row 3:   Join yarn in any 6ch space;    3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same space, 2ch;   (6dc into next 6ch space, 2ch) x 11 (12 x 6dc groups);   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 4:    Join yarn in 1st dc of any 6dc group;    3ch, (1dc into next dc) x5,  4ch;   [(1dc into next dc) x 6, 4ch] x 11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join yarn in any 4ch space;   6ch, 1trtrc (1st cluster), 13ch, 1trtrc cl into same space;   [(1trtrc cl, 13ch, 1trtrc cl) into next 4ch space] x 11;   sl st into top of first cluster to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 6:  Join yarn in any 13ch space;   3ch (counts as 1dc), 11dc into same space (12dc group), 1ch;  (12dc into next 13ch space, 1ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

Row 7:   Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 12dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x9 (10dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 1ch space between 12dc groups,  4ch);   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 12dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x9;  (4ch, 1sc into 1ch space between 12dc groups, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 8:   Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 10dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x7 (8dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x2, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 10dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x7;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x2, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 9:   Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 8dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x5 (6dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x3, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 8dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x5;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x3, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 10:  Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 6dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  (1dc into next dc) x3 (4dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x4, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 6dc group;  (1dc into next dc) x3;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x4, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 11:  Join yarn in 2nd dc on any 4dc group;   3ch (counts as 1dc);  1dc into next dc (2dc group);   (4ch, 1sc into 4ch space) x5, 4ch)   [1dc into 2nd dc on next 4dc group;  1dc into next dc;  (4ch, 1sc into 4ch) x5, 4ch) x11;  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.

Row 12 (Edging):  Join yarn in centre of any 2dc group   [4ch, 1trc (counts as trc cluster),  (4ch, trc cl) x3] into same place as join;

{1ch, skip next 4ch space, 1sc into next 4ch space, 1ch;  [(1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch into next 4ch space);  (work 1st stitch of trc cl into the same space;   work 2nd stitch of trc cl into next 4ch space);   (4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl into same 4ch space as 2nd part of last trc cl);  1ch 1sc into next 4ch space. 1ch, skip next 4ch space;  [(1trc cl, 4ch) x3;  1trc cl] into centre of 2dc group} x11;

1ch, skip next 4ch space, 1sc into next 4ch space, 1ch;  [(1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch into next 4ch space);  (work 1st stitch of trc cl into the same space;   work 2nd stitch of trc cl into next 4ch space);   (4ch, 1trc cl, 4ch, 1trc cl into same 4ch space as 2nd part of last trc cl), 1ch 1sc into next 4ch space, 1ch,  skip next 4ch space, sl st into top of start cluster to close.    Break off yarn

Little Wildflowers

Make a magic ring.
 
Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into the ring,  5ch;   (2dc, 5ch) x4 (5 petals formed),  sl st into sp between 2dc to close;

 
Row 2:   Join yarn in space between two dc (1ch; 6hdc into 5ch sp, 1ch, sl st into next sp between two dc) x5 (the last sl st being worked into the start 1ch);   break off yarn

Embellish with beads or buttons.

A sweet addition to a baby blanket!!!

Teeny Tiny Star

 

Yarn:    Raeesah Cotton Soft DK

Hook:  4.00mm

Pattern is written in US TERMS

Foundation:   3ch sl st into first ch to make ring OR make a magic ring

Row 1:   1ch, 1sc into ring;   4ch, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (picot formed), 1ch;   [2sc into ring, 4ch, sl st into 3ch from hook (picot formed). 1ch] x 4, sl st into 1ch at start to close

To give them a bit of sparkle I added some glitter glue! 

The Road Trip Scarf: Print Friendly Pattern

YARN:   DK (LIGHT WORSTED / 8PLY) ACRYLIC

HOOK:   4.00mm

SIZE:  106cm Wide;   48cm long

EXTRAS:  Wooden beads

Foundation:   6ch


Row 1:   Into first chain (the 6th chain from your hook) [crochet 2dc, 3ch, 2dc ( this forms the point of your shawl);  now also crochet 1ch, 1dc into the same place] (turn your work so that you are now working along the "wrong side")

Row 2: Working up the right side of the triangle 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch); 2dc into 1ch sp,  1ch;  skip 1dc, 1dc into next dc, 1ch;  1dc, 3ch, 1dc into 3ch sp (point), 

Working down the left side of the triangle 1ch; 1dc into next dc, 1ch, skip 1dc; 2dc, 1ch, 1dc into space at the end of the row; (turn your work so that you are now working along the "right side")

Row 3:  Working up the right hand side of the the triangle 4ch (counts as 1dc, 1ch);   2dc into 1ch sp, 1ch;   skip 1dc;   (1dc into next dc, 1ch) repeat to point (this means that you crochet one dc into each dc from the previous row with a 1ch sp in between each dc);  Into the three chain space which forms the point crochet (1dc, 3ch, 1dc);  Working down the left hand side of the triangle (1ch, 1dc into next dc) repeat to 2^nd last dc, skip last dc, 1ch 2dc, ch,1dc into space at the end of the row

Rows 4 - 32:  Repeat Row 3
(this means that you repeat the pattern row you have crocheted in Row 3 - i.e. just continue to follow the pattern in the highlighted area for the next 29 Rows

EDGING

ROW 33:    (working into the 1ch space between dc) 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into 1ch space;  4ch;   (skip next 1ch space;   2dc into next 1ch space,  4ch)  repeat to point;  Into 3ch (at the point) crochet (2dc, 4ch, 2dc), 4ch;   (skip 1ch space, 2dc into next 1ch space, 4ch) repeat to space before last 3dc, 2dc into 1ch space at the end of row

Row 34:    3ch (counts as 1dc);   1dc into 1ch at the start of row (5ch, remove loop from hook, insert hook from front to back of work through the 4ch space,   put loop back on hook and pull through to front of work through the 4ch space;    insert hook front to back through the space between the next 2dc and crochet 2dc) repeat to end of row.

BASE EDGING (this is the edging that runs along the longest side of your scarf)  Working across the base of the triangle 2dc into the same space as last 2dc (the end of Row 34);   (5ch, remove loop from hook, insert hook from front to back of work through next dc post, put loop back on hook and pull to front of work through the dc post, insert hook front to back through the next dc post and crochet 2dc) repeat to end of row, crocheting the final 2dc into the same space as the start of Row 34;   sl st into the top of 3ch to close;     break off yarn.

EMBELLISHMENTS

Magic Ring Flowers:    Make a magic ring,   Into the ring work (3ch, 2dc, 3ch, sl st) x6 (6 petals made).    Break of yarn after final sl st leaving a long tail.    Tighten the ring and work in the "ring" end.  (I made 8 flowers, attaching 2 at each point and 4 randomly around the "v")

Braids:  Pull a double strand of yarn through a stitch at the ends of your scarf - until you have two equal lengths.    Start twisting both lengths in the same direction.   Once they are tightly twisted, hold then together and gently guide them to twist in the opposite direction.   Knot the end of the braid.

Attach the flowers to the scarf, with a small wooden bead as the centre of the flower

A tutorial with clear photos can be found  HERE  

In 2014 when I created my Road Trip scarf I had no idea that it would be so ridiculously popular. I had a lot of requests for a longer scarf along similar lines. I finally got around to it - the result is a long “baktus style” scarf with two possible edgings. Either a frilly edge for a whimsical look or a zig-zag bobble edging. (The original Road Trip Scarf edging and trims would also work well with this design) 

The Day Trip Scarf differs from the Road Trip Scarf in that it increases steadily in length and gradually in width, whereas the Road Trip Scarf increases evenly in length and width. 

The Day Trip Scarf pattern is available now in my RAVELRY STORE

Holiday Ripple Blanket

In an effort to use up all the less than full balls of  yarn as well as the "odds" and "uglies" in my DK Acrylic stash, I rolled two 8ply strands together to make some "Super Bulky" 16ply yarn!

Note:   It may be easier to "double-strand-as-you-go" - by that I mean crocheting the yarns together as you go and not pre-rolling as I did!

After a bit of trial and error I came up with this ripple pattern for a blanket!  Since there was quite an odd collection of colours and quantities, I crocheted random stripes!

This "Super Bulky" yarn works up in no time at all and is the perfect project for a rainy weekend!

 

I estimate having used approximately 1800g to 2000g of yarn.

I decided to keep the fun element by not bordering the blanket and making a beaded fringe with the tails instead!

The fringe adds such a happy hippie vibe to the blanket!   (I will be posting a pattern for a border for those of you who do not like the fringe idea!)

HOLIDAY RIPPLE BLANKET

The Print Friendly version of this pattern can be found HERE

Pattern Terms:   US 

Materials:   2 strands of DK worked together (equivalent to 16ply OR Super Bulky yarn)

Quantity:  Approximately 1800g to 2000g of DK (8ply / light worsted weight yarn)

Hook:  9.00mm

Measurements:   180cm x 180cm (216 plus 4 ch over 120 rows)

Stitches used:    chain and double crochet (US) (for UK readers this would be chain and treble)


The pattern is worked in multiples of 9 plus 4

(If you have never rippled before it is a good idea to make yourself a practice swatch - 18ch (2 x 9) plus 4ch = 22ch)

My son made this fabulous chart to explain the pattern:

(Leave a fairly long tail with every colour change - this will be used to make our fringe.)

Foundation Chain:   216 plus 4 (220) 

Row 1:  Into fourth chain from hook work 1dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next ch)x3;   skip 2ch ("valley" formed);  [(1dc into next ch)x3;   (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into next ch ("mountain" formed);   (1dc into next ch)x3;    skip 2ch] repeat to last 6ch;   skip 2ch;   (1dc into next ch)x3;   2dc into last chain;   turn work

Row 2:  3ch, 1dc into first dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next dc) x3;   skip 2dc [(1dc into next dc) x3;  (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into 1ch space (at the peak of the "mountain" on the previous row);  (1dc into next dc)x3;  skip 2dc (across the "valley" on the previous row)] repeat to last 4dc;  (1dc into next dc) x3;   2dc into last dc (this "dc" is actually the 3ch start at the beginning of the previous row)

Keep repeating Row 2 until your workpiece is the required length.

Beaded Fringe

Thread beads of choice randomly onto the tail at the end of one row and the tail at the start of the next row.

Hold one tail between the thumb and forefinger of your left hand and the other between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand.     Start twisting the yarn tighter in the same direction as the twist of the yarn tails.

Bring the twisted tails together and gently twist them in the opposite direction.  Knot the ends

Holiday Ripple: Print Friendly Pattern

Pattern Terms:   US 

Materials:   2 strands of DK worked together (equivalent to 16ply OR Super Bulky yarn)

Quantity:  Approximately 1800g to 2000g of DK (8ply / light worsted weight yarn)

Hook:  9.00mm

Measurements:   180cm x 180cm (216 plus 4 ch over 120 rows)

Stitches used:    chain and double crochet (US) (for UK readers this would be chain and treble)

The pattern is worked in multiples of 9 plus 4

(If you have never rippled before it is a good idea to make yourself a practice swatch - 18ch (2 x 9) plus 4ch = 22ch)

My son made this fabulous chart to explain the pattern:

 (Leave a fairly long tail with every colour change - this will be used to make our fringe.)

Foundation Chain:   216 plus 4 (220) 

Row 1:  Into fourth chain from hook work 1dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next ch)x3;   skip 2ch ("valley" formed);  [(1dc into next ch)x3;   (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into next ch ("mountain" formed);   (1dc into next ch)x3;    skip 2ch] repeat to last 6ch;   skip 2ch;   (1dc into next ch)x3;   2dc into last chain;   turn work

Row 2:  3ch, 1dc into first dc (counts as 2dc);   (1dc into next dc) x3;   skip 2dc [(1dc into next dc) x3;  (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into 1ch space (at the peak of the "mountain" on the previous row);  (1dc into next dc)x3;  skip 2dc (across the "valley" on the previous row)] repeat to last 4dc;  (1dc into next dc) x3;   2dc into last dc (this "dc" is actually the 3ch start at the beginning of the previous row)

Keep repeating Row 2 until your workpiece is the required length.

Beaded Fringe

Thread beads of choice randomly onto the tail at the end of one row and the tail at the start of the next row.

Hold one tail between the thumb and forefinger of your left hand and the other between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand.     Start twisting the yarn tighter in the same direction as the twist of the yarn tails.

Bring the twisted tails together and gently twist them in the opposite direction.  Knot the ends

Happy Days CAL (9): Joining Chart

We have completed the squares for our Happy Days Blanket: 

PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square)  
x4 (28cm x 28cm each)
 
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square)
x10 (14cm x 14cm each) 
  
Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square)
x4  (28cm x 28cm each)

Part 4 (Solid Granny Square)
x10 (14cm x 14cm each)

Part 5 (Popcorn Flower & Leaves Square)
x8 (14cm x 14cm each)

Part 6 (Box Stitch Square)
x8 (14cm x 14cm)

Part 7 (Zooty Mandala Square) 
x4 (28cm x 28cm)
 
Part 8 (Happy Days Mandala Square) 
x4 (28cm x 28cm) 

You can use whatever method you prefer to join your squares.    You can also join them in whatever order you choose.

I will be crocheting a double row of dc with "Storm" (dark grey) around each 28cm x 28cm square;  and then using my VISIBLE JOIN to join them together.

I like the Visible Join because it is very forgiving - you still get a very neat join even if your squares are slightly uneven.     It also adds interest to your work giving a "stitched" look!

 My squares will be joined according to this chart:

I will post the pattern for my border and edging on Friday 14 November 2014 (the border will be a slight variation on the BABY GROOVYGHAN)

Please feel free to use your favourite border and edging.

Pansy and Leaves Pattern

Pansy Flower:

Foundation: 3ch or make a magic ring

Petals:  (3ch, 4 trc, 3ch, sl st into ring) x 2;   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring;   3ch, 2trc, 3ch sl st into ring,   2ch, 2dc, 2ch, sl st into ring,    break off yarn.

Embroider the flower centres in a contrasting colour

Leaves: 

Foundation:  6ch

Leaf:  1sc into 2nd ch from hook; 1sc into next ch, 1hdc into each of next 2ch;  6dc into last chain (this will form the curve of your leaf and will bring you around to the bottom end of the chain);   working along the bottom edge of the chain, 1hdc into each of next 2ch; 1sc into next ch,  sl st into next ch, break off yarn.

Lovely as an embellishment on a hat, bag or scarf such as the GRANNY STRIPE SCARF

Happy Days Mandala

Coffee Cotton is a Cotton, Pan Fibre, Coffee Extract Blend which does not split and makes for a very neat stitch. 

Sadly the colours are not very vibrant and there are only 9 colours to choose from.

Last week I worked through my Coffee Cotton stash by crocheting a few quick and easy mandalas. 

I made this one for my daughter's craft room in her lovely new home:

I had the idea to use these to make up small gifts, by wrapping cellophane around a small potted herb, threading ribbon through the "meshy" part of the mandala and then tying that around the pot. 


 

I have not as yet been able to find small potted plants (ideally herbs) and have therefore not been able to test my idea as yet!!

 

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% cotton (or any cotton blend) (I used "Coffee Cotton" - a blend of cotton, pan fibre and coffee extract)
 
HOOK: 4.00mm

SIZE:  23cm in diameter

PATTERN TERMS:   US

This is the pattern I used as the focal point for the Happy Days Mandala Square.   (Note:  Row by Row photos of the first 11 rows can be found HERE)

Foundation:  3ch, sl st to form a circle OR make a magic circle

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  11 dc into circle;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc)

Row 2:  Join yarn into any sp between dc,  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc in same space as join (2dc grouping);  [2dc into each sp between dc  (2dc grouping)] x11;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (24dc)

Row 3:  Join yarn in centre of any 2dc grouping;  4ch (counts as 1trc), 2trc into same space as join;  [3trc into centre of next 2dc grouping (3trc grouping)] x 11, sl st into top of 4ch at start to close (36trc).   Break off yarn.

Row 4:    Join yarn in space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on any 3trc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same space as join;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc post;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings;   [2dc into space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on next 3trc grouping;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc posts;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings] x11; sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (60dc).   Break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join yarn in any dc;  2ch (counts as 1hdc);  (1hdc into each dc) x59;    sl st into top of 2ch at start to close (60hdc).   Break off yarn

Row 6:  Join yarn in any sp between 2 hdc;  4ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  (skip 2sp between hdc;   1sc, 3ch into next sp between hdc) x19;  sl st into 1st of 4ch at start to close.   Break off yarn

Row 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same sp as join (4dc grouping);  [4dc in next 3ch space (4dc grouping)] x19 (20 x 4dc groupings);  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 8:  Join yarn in any sp between 4dc groupings;  5ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  [1sc, 4ch in next space between 4dc groupings] x 19;  sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.  (see photo for Row 6) 

Row 9:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp, 2ch (counts as 1hdc); 4hdc into same sp as join;   [5hdc into next 4ch sp (5hdc grouping)] x19;   sl st into top of 2ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 10:  Join yarn in 1st hdc of any 5hdc grouping,  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc;  2dc into next dc;   (1dc into next dc) x2;  [(1dc into next dc) x2;  2dc into next dc;  (1dc into next dc) x2] x19

Row 11:  Join yarn between any two dc on last row of Mandala, 4ch in same space as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  [skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1sc into the 3rd space, 3ch] repeat all around the circle;  3ch sl st into first chain at start of row (40 x 3ch loops).   Break off yarn

Row 12:  (edging)   Join yarn with a sl st in any 3ch space;   [(1hdc, 2dc, 2trc, 2dc, 1hdc) into next 3ch space;   sl st into next 3ch space) x 19;  (1hdc, 2dc, 2trc, 2dc, 1hdc) into next 3ch space.     Break off yarn and join to first sl st in the row with a yarn needle.

Happy Days CAL (8): Happy Days Mandala Square

Welcome to Part 8 of our Happy Days Blanket Crochet Along! 

Here are the links to the squares we have made so far:

PART 1 (Hakuna Matata Mandala Square) (where you will find all the necessary info about this project);
 
Part 2 (Sunny Flower Square);

Part 3 (Tic-Tac-Toe Square);

Part 4 (Solid Granny Square);

Part 5 (Popcorn Flower & Leaves Square); and

Part 6 (Box Stitch Square)

Part 7 (Zooty Mandala Square)

So far we have made:
4 x Hakuna Matata Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x  Sunny Flower Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
4 x  Tic-Tac-Toe Squares (28cm x 28cm each)
10 x Solid Granny Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
8 x Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares (14cm x 14cm each)
8 x Box Stitch Squares (14cm x 14cm)
4 x Zooty Mandala Squares (28cm x 28cm)

We have joined the Sunny Flower Squares and the Solid Granny Squares to make 5 bigger 28cm x 28cm Squares

We have also joined the Popcorn Flower & Leaves Squares and the Box Stitch Squares to make 4 bigger 28cm x 28cm Squares. 

Some photos sent to me by ladies participating in the CAL:

This weeks we will be making 4 x Happy Days Mandala Squares:

HAPPY DAYS MANDALA SQUARE

YARN:  DK (8ply / light worsted weight) 100% acrylic 
 
HOOK:  5.00mm

SIZE:  28cm x 28cm

PATTERN TERMS:   US

I will include this conversion chart with each pattern to make it easier for those using UK terms

Foundation:  3ch, sl st to form a circle OR make a magic circle

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  11 dc into circle;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc)

Row 2:  Join yarn into any sp between dc,  3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc in same space as join (2dc grouping);  [2dc into each sp between dc  (2dc grouping)] x11;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (24dc)

Row 3:  Join yarn in centre of any 2dc grouping;  4ch (counts as 1trc), 2trc into same space as join;  [3trc into centre of next 2dc grouping (3trc grouping)] x 11, sl st into top of 4ch at start to close (36trc).   Break off yarn.

Row 4:    Join yarn in space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on any 3trc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same space as join;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc post;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings;   [2dc into space between 1st and 2nd trc posts on next 3trc grouping;  2dc into space between 2nd and 3rd trc posts;   1dc into space between 3trc groupings] x11; sl st into top of 3ch at start to close (60dc).   Break off yarn.

Row 5:  Join yarn in any dc;  2ch (counts as 1hdc);  (1hdc into each dc) x59;    sl st into top of 2ch at start to close (60hdc).   Break off yarn

Row 6:  Join yarn in any sp between 2 hdc;  4ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  (skip 2sp between hdc;   1sc, 3ch into next sp between hdc) x19;  sl st into 1st of 4ch at start to close.   Break off yarn

Row 7:  Join yarn in any 3ch sp;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same sp as join (4dc grouping);  [4dc in next 3ch space (4dc grouping)] x19 (20 x 4dc groupings);  sl st into top of 3ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 8:  Join yarn in any sp between 4dc groupings;  5ch in same sp as join (counts as 1sc, 4ch);  [1sc, 4ch in next space between 4dc groupings] x 19;  sl st into 1st of 5ch at start to close.    Break off yarn.  (see photo for Row 6) 

Row 9:  Join yarn in any 4ch sp, 2ch (counts as 1hdc); 4hdc into same sp as join;   [5hdc into next 4ch sp (5hdc grouping)] x19;   sl st into top of 2ch at start to close.  Break off yarn.

Row 10:  Join yarn in 1st hdc of any 5hdc grouping,  3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next dc;  2dc into next dc;   (1dc into next dc) x2;  [(1dc into next dc) x2;  2dc into next dc;  (1dc into next dc) x2] x19

Row 11:  Join yarn between any two dc on last row of Mandala, 4ch in same space as join (counts as 1sc, 3ch);  [skip 2 spaces between dc (this means you will skip 3dc posts) 1sc into the 3rd space, 3ch] repeat all around the circle;  3ch sl st into first chain at start of row (40 x 3ch loops).   Break off yarn.

Start squaring your mandala (Row by Row photos of the "squaring" can be found HERE)

Row 12:  Join yarn in any 3ch space;    [4ch (counts as 1trc) 2trc, 3ch, 3trc into same space as join;  1ch (corner)];  [3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  (3sc into next 3ch space, 1ch) x3;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  (3trc, 3ch, 3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch)] x3;  3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;  (3sc into next 3ch space, 1ch) x3;  3hdc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3dc into next 3ch space, 1ch;   3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch    sl st into top of 4ch at start.   Break off yarn.

At this stage your square will still be looking slightly curved


Row 13:  Join yarn in any 3ch corner space;  [4ch (counts as 1sc, 3ch) 1sc] into same space as join;  [3ch, 1sc) repeat around square, working (1sc, 3ch, 1sc) into each corner space;   sl st into 1st of 4ch at start;


Row 14:  sl st into corner 3ch space;    [4ch (counts as 1trc) 2trc, 3ch, 3trc into same space as join (corner)];  [(3trc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3hdc into next 3ch space) x3;   (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;   (3trc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3trc, 3ch, 3trc into next 3ch space, 1ch)] x3;   [(3trc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;  (3hdc into next 3ch space) x3;   (3dc into next 3ch space) x2;   (3trc into next 3ch space) x2] sl st into top of 4ch at start.

Row 15:   2ch (counts as 1hdc) into same place as sl st;  1hdc into top of each dc,  Into corner 3ch spaces crochet 2hdc, 3ch, 2hdc;   sl st into top of 2ch at start to close.   Break off yarn.

I am working on the assembly chart at the moment - will post this by next week Friday (24 October 2014)

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